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  1. #121
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    Haha you're welcome, it's looking good man!! Glad you decided to move the battery down, it'll handle great!
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  2. #122
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    Looking good

  3. #123
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    Bolted the trailing arm mounts to the chassis. I'll probably make the upper plates tomorrow out of macenite.
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  4. #124
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    Okay so the modeling of my chassis is going great an it looks awesome, but I have a problem. A question for the four-link experts and any of the other rc tt builders. I have my axle set up so that the input shaft part points upward to reduce the pinion angle. This helps, but when the suspension is fully compressed, the shaft thingy seems to move and point farther upward, causing what looks like a serious binding issue. What's more, at full compression, I can turn the axle by hand and point it pretty much straight up! I'm kind of stuck lol. Pictures are in order of description.
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  5. #125
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    Sean it is good to have a couple degrees of upward angle on the pinion shaft. What I see here, you have way too much.

  6. #126
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    Alright thanks that could be the problem, it's just that because of the offset diff, it has to be angled enough so there isn't binding because of the driveshaft angle.
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  7. #127
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    I'm using the same rear end. Should have some trailing arms to show tonight hopefully.

  8. #128
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    Nice! Looking forward to seeig them! I changes out the rod ends on my top links for some shorter ones and the problem is gone. 😁
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  9. #129
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    Perfect! What driveshaft are you running?

  10. #130
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    I'm not really sure what I'm going to use in the long run, probably something mip, but a shortened e revo driveshaft for now.
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  11. #131
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    I was thinking of ordering one from a place on the net that specializes in rc 4wd stuff. Very heavy duty

  12. #132
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    What website?
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  13. #133
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    I'll message you the info

  14. #134
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    Okay another problem for you guys, this one is front suspension. I just finished giving the front end longer travel and it seems to have made it way worse. At full droop, the front wheels point towards each other a lot and then at full compression, point away from each other. Any ideas? Thanks
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  15. #135
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    U have done a great job even if the build is slow. Try adjusting the turnbuckles that's kinda weird
    Is it fast enough? No, no it isn't.

  16. #136
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    Thanks lol this build has actually been kind of fast because most of the work is just staying in the garage for hours and days just adjusting, building, and testing. 😈 Haha I really have no idea what to do with the turnbuckles because it sort of seems adjusting them either way won't do anything...
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  17. #137
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    Are the turnbuckles mounted lower on the side close to the chassis than the side by the wheels? That would cause yur issue
    Is it fast enough? No, no it isn't.

  18. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanycool View Post
    Okay another problem for you guys, this one is front suspension. I just finished giving the front end longer travel and it seems to have made it way worse. At full droop, the front wheels point towards each other a lot and then at full compression, point away from each other. Any ideas?
    Looks like something with the steering links, try adjusting their lengths and see what it'll do. Not anymore than 50% sure on this but it's an idea.
    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  19. #139
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    Just adjust them straight when they are sitting in a neutral stance.

  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    Just adjust them straight when they are sitting in a neutral stance.
    Exactly. They should be parallel to the a arms
    Is it fast enough? No, no it isn't.

  21. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanycool View Post
    Okay another problem for you guys, this one is front suspension. I just finished giving the front end longer travel and it seems to have made it way worse. At full droop, the front wheels point towards each other a lot and then at full compression, point away from each other. Any ideas? Thanks
    What you're describing is bump steer. With the new long travel the steering link angle drops to a steeper angle. With the stock amount of travel, the steering links and the a-arms cycle close to parallel if you're looking from the front. Now with more travel, the geometry changes and causes that angle to move away from parallel.

    To fix it, you simply need to add spacers underneath where the steering links mount to the bellcrank. That will raise up the link to return it to the stock geometry. Just do this until you notice no more "toe-out" under compression.
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  22. #142
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    Okey doke thanks guys! I'll try doing that!
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  23. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    What you're describing is bump steer. With the new long travel the steering link angle drops to a steeper angle. With the stock amount of travel, the steering links and the a-arms cycle close to parallel if you're looking from the front. Now with more travel, the geometry changes and causes that angle to move away from parallel.

    To fix it, you simply need to add spacers underneath where the steering links mount to the bellcrank. That will raise up the link to return it to the stock geometry. Just do this until you notice no more "toe-out" under compression.


    Great post! You hit the nail on the head!

  24. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanycool View Post
    Okey doke thanks guys! I'll try doing that!
    Quote Originally Posted by harry697 View Post
    Great post! You hit the nail on the head!
    Glad I could help
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  25. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    What you're describing is bump steer. With the new long travel the steering link angle drops to a steeper angle. With the stock amount of travel, the steering links and the a-arms cycle close to parallel if you're looking from the front. Now with more travel, the geometry changes and causes that angle to move away from parallel.

    To fix it, you simply need to add spacers underneath where the steering links mount to the bellcrank. That will raise up the link to return it to the stock geometry. Just do this until you notice no more "toe-out" under compression.
    Great post! after seeing all these solid axle trophy trucks I want one how do they perform compared to stock slash?
    Is it fast enough? No, no it isn't.

  26. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zakary View Post
    Great post! after seeing all these solid axle trophy trucks I want one how do they perform compared to stock slash?
    No prob. How these perform is solely based on how you setup them up. With these things the 4 link geometry in the rear end basically determines how much traction you'll have. Doing testing and experimenting with different mounting spots has helped a ton to narrow down the best spots. That's why I'm taking my time on my latest build so I can get everything right.

    But as far as driving them, can't even compare the two! These things are just too fun to drive! The best part for me is just seeing how smooth they can travel over bumps and terrain. Then you can start pushing the limit to see how fast you can drive over those things; now that's where it gets really fun!
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  27. #147
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    Solid Axle Trophy Truck Build (somewhat slow)

    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    What you're describing is bump steer. With the new long travel the steering link angle drops to a steeper angle. With the stock amount of travel, the steering links and the a-arms cycle close to parallel if you're looking from the front. Now with more travel, the geometry changes and causes that angle to move away from parallel.

    To fix it, you simply need to add spacers underneath where the steering links mount to the bellcrank. That will raise up the link to return it to the stock geometry. Just do this until you notice no more "toe-out" under compression.
    Hey @cyconxc, I don't think I'll be able to put a spacer there because I'm using a slash 4x4 bell crank, which means the link is sandwiched between two parts on the bell crank...
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  28. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanycool View Post
    Hey @cyconxc, I don't think I'll be able to put a spacer there because I'm using a slash 4x4 bell crank, which means the link is sandwiched between two parts on the bell crank...
    You might not want to, but you could cut off that top half where the link sandwiches. Then you could run a screw through the bottom, add your spacer and the link, then just put a 3mm nut on top. But it might not be strong enough..
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  29. #149
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    Yeah that's what I was thinking, did you have to do that? If so have you noticed any difference in strength?
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  30. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanycool View Post
    Yeah that's what I was thinking, did you have to do that? If so have you noticed any difference in strength?
    That was just an idea, but I personally didn't have to because I used the Proline 2wd bellcrank. This was before I added the spacers but you can see on mine it's much easier to do than the 4x4 one.

    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  31. #151
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    Update for you guys. I haven't done much, but I've widened the vertical plates so I can lay the transmission down. I was planning on buying the RC4WD centered diff housing for the wraith, but they went out of stock and won't be back for four months or so. So by laying it down, I'll be able to run the driveshaft straight to the axle, just way offset. I'm pretty close to being done, just have to order the sheet metal!
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  32. #152
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    Solid Axle Trophy Truck Build (somewhat slow)

    Update, I cut everything out of metal and mounted the front end, transmission, and the trailing arms. I ended up mounting my transmission a little too close to the front of the chassis so now the battery unfortunately has to sit on its aid instead of flat👎. Good news though the RC4WD centered wraith housing is back in stock so I can get some money together for it👍. I also painted my very first body!!! Proline Chevy Pro2 with a very amateur paint job lol.
    Last edited by seanycool; 07-15-2014 at 09:14 PM.
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  33. #153
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    Body looks good.

  34. #154
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    Looks really good for a first! My 2nd is coming within the next 2 months for a friends birthday. I just find it hard to beat on a freshly painted one....
    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  35. #155
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    Thanks guys
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  36. #156
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    Solid Axle Trophy Truck Build (somewhat slow)

    Update. Bolted up most of the important things to the chassis such as the upper chassis, upper links, shocks, and esc. Looks okay and drives decent, but definitely needs tuning and maybe new shocks too. It sorta feels like the chassis is too tight in the back and limits the articulation somewhat. I can fix that though. One major problem I noticed, it seems that I've accidentally mounted the rear chassis crooked compared to the lower chassis. I can and will fix it, it's just a pain in the but because I have to take the back section off again. I guess I can make my spare tire mount while I do that though. Other than that, I am content with how the test went. The driveshaft didn't get hot like the old chassis setup did and it feels a little bit more stable. I also made some of my own steering linkages because my old jato ones were a bit too long and these ones just look cooler lol. Pics
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  37. #157
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    Solid Axle Trophy Truck Build (somewhat slow)

    Mounted the spare tires and battery yesterday. Looks pretty darn good with the body on!
    Last edited by seanycool; 07-21-2014 at 04:28 PM.
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  38. #158
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    Looking great! Any video?

  39. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon01 View Post
    Looking great! Any video?
    Not yet, hope to make one soon though!
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  40. #160
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    Looking forward to seeing it!

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