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  1. #1
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    Question Rustler VXL drive shaft options.

    Morning guys. I just recently got back into the hobby and picked up a Rustler VXL with lipo from my local hobby shop. Just a little background bout me, I am nothing more than a basher. I been messing with R/C since I was like 10 years old. Im def kinda new to the brushless and lipo scene. All I have ever had was low turn brushed motors and NiMH packs. So, on to my question. I wanted to know what my options were for aftermarket driveshafts for my Rustler. I have replaces my originals already with nothing more than OE ones. I have installed the hardened steel output yokes on the diff BUT still have the plastic shafts and stub axles. Since I am just a basher, would it be better for me to upgrade to a set of CVD's or just buy bulk factory plastic ones?

  2. #2
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    Many people use the rear drive shafts from the Slash/Stampede 4x4. They are a heavier duty plastic slider shaft that will drop right into your Rustler.
    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
    SPC Lipo Power

  3. #3
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    Thanx bro, I will def look into that once they break again.

  4. #4
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    I bought the MIP CVD kit for my Rustler because I kept splitting the output yokes on my transmission. Pretty sure theyre all around made of steel and they honestly give it a cool chirping sound from the metal on metal contact. I've had them on for about 2 weeks now and havent looked back, the only issue I've had with them is the set screws dont like to stay in unless you use locktite, obviously make sure the locktite has enough time to dry. Unfortunately I ignored that part and my yoke kept falling off. IMO I like the CVD's cuz they look better and theyre definately stronger.

  5. #5
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    Thanx, I will look into them as well...

  6. #6
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    Yeah, +1 on MIP, they are strong, powerful, and totally worth your money! I use MIP and I'm super satisfied!
    Brushless Rips, Nitro Drips!!! BL Power FTW!

  7. #7
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    Im going to put my vote in for tekno. they are a lot lighter than the mip's, cheaper and to be honest I'm a huge fan of the design. Only a single set screw to attach to the cups to the diff and thats it.. the rest are pins that are all captured inside the hubs with no way to fall out... Been running them for a while now with no problems at all

    M6 Driveshafts and Hub Carriers

    MIP and Tekno would be the only two options i would be looking at... and are both equally very worthy in their own regards...

    Happy bashing..
    Last edited by T4KT1KZ; 09-19-2013 at 12:21 AM.

  8. #8
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    I like the slash/stampede ones the best but the price is right and I've had fewer issues since going with them. I just don't like having rigid axles on the rear of my rustler I like the idea of how the half shafts from the factory design aspect are allowed to shrink and grow with suspension movement allowing it to take more of the hit without transferring energy to the carriers or differential. Now if I was going for speed runs or pavement maneuverability I'd definitely go solid cause ideally you wont be requiring as much movement. That's my stand point on it

  9. #9
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    also if you clean and apply a nice thin coat of white lithium the stock style hardly ever bind up.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by excellerator View Post
    also if you clean and apply a nice thin coat of white lithium the stock style hardly ever bind up.
    And this doesn't attract a massive amount of dirt??? I'd think tey would bind up even worse by doing this.

  11. #11
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    it will but I clean and re grease them after every run. I'm not saying cake on the grease either just a nice thin film to keep the plastic from catching on it's self

  12. #12
    Marshal Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    I use graphite powder rather than grease on areas like this that I am worried will get contaminated by grease attracting dirt.
    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
    SPC Lipo Power

  13. #13
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    Thanx a bunch guys, I will look into all of your suggestions before I make a purchase.

  14. #14
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    First thing I would try is the 4x4 slash/stampede rear axles. They are actually extremely durable compared to the stock ones. Didn't realize this at first, but glad to see another person from Baltimore.
    Last edited by Baltim0re28; 09-19-2013 at 12:46 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by excellerator View Post
    also if you clean and apply a nice thin coat of white lithium the stock style hardly ever bind up.
    Try using a Teflon spray. Its a "dry film" lube somewhat like a dry graphite but allows you to spray it, and it dries with a white film. Doesn't attract dirt or anything like the grease will

  16. #16
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    I might try the dry spray I sell a ton of it at work but have never tried it on anything. I like graphite but its messy I guess thats why I stuck with white lithium thanks for the tip

  17. #17
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    I just read a write up in the nitro section about using jato drive shafts. I'm going to go buy a set tomorrow and if you want I'll let you know how well they work on the e-rustlers

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...s-on-a-Rustler

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