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  1. #1
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    Project deanodize reanodize.

    I'm going to attempt to change the color of some XO-1 aluminum parts. I'm shooting for red since there really isn't any available. Here's a pic of part of the stock motor mount after deanodizing.

    Jeremy

  2. #2
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    Anodizing.

    Jeremy

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Wow, good luck! Could you explain how it works?
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  4. #4
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    Yep please!

    I've seen quite some videos about it and read a lot about it too but all information is welcome.

    I guess you will soak the parts in a dye after anodizing? How much current are you using and what kind of electrodes?

  5. #5
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    Here is a link to the process I'm using. Everything is explained here. You can also view my comments as they will tell exactly what power supply I'm using. As far as the wire leads, I'm using aluminum wire that I bought from Lowes. I bought the large cable they use to run power to your house. Just took it apart and used the single strands.

    http://www.observationsblog.com/4/po...tery-acid.html

    Oh and I used Greased Lightning to deanodize the part. Took probably 45 minutes or so. Placed the part in the liquid and let it do it's magic. Then periodically used a tooth brush to help it along. Also, moved the part around in the liquid quite often.
    Last edited by ponie1992; 09-10-2013 at 05:36 PM.
    Jeremy

  6. #6
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    That is pretty cool, I have always wondered how that worked.
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  7. #7
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    Into the red dye.

    Jeremy

  8. #8
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    After dying and sealing (boiling water). Notice the 2 tone effect in the color. I haven't figured out what causes this yet, but I spray the part with an acrylic clear and the 2 tone becomes almost unnoticeable.

    Jeremy

  9. #9
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    That is a nice red. How much does it cost to do this?
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  10. #10
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    You need the following:
    1. Distilled water $.88 per gallon from Walmart
    2. Plastic containers about $3.00 for a pack of 4
    3. The anodizing chemical PH down that I use I think is around $6-8.00
    4. Liquid draino maybe $5.00 or so
    5. Spray bottle maybe $2.00
    6. Rit dye about $3.00
    7. Aluminum wire pretty cheap if you buy it like I do from Lowe's
    8. Power supply cost will vary
    9. Part to be anodized and some aluminum of at least 6061 quality for the cathode
    10. Lots of time!
    Jeremy

  11. #11
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    After the clear.



    Jeremy

  12. #12
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    Are you planning to do all the parts on your car like that, because if you did it would look killer.
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Awesome! I like it!
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by revoman78 View Post
    Are you planning to do all the parts on your car like that, because if you did it would look killer.
    That's the plan, although I think the wheel hexes are what's gonna give me fits. They are gonna be tough because there isn't a sopt for a really good connection. Most of the aluminum parts have some type of threaded hole or another that I can screw my aluminum wire into. That makes for a really good connection. The hexes have a threaded hole but the nuts do not. Also, the part does not anodize at the connection, so I will have bare spots on the nuts. Once they are installed, you won't see them but I'll know they're there. Just have to see what happens. I'm really excited to do the shock towers. They'll look really nice in red.
    Quote Originally Posted by danielhr77 View Post
    Awesome! I like it!
    Thanks!
    Jeremy

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You know, I anodized most of the parts from my trucks, the vintage ones to their stock color; the new ones, mainly to black or silver, there's a shop here that makes that for me, but your read looks very very good!
    200, 202, 420, humor 404, 301 to rc10talk, 410.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by danielhr77 View Post
    You know, I anodized most of the parts from my trucks, the vintage ones to their stock color; the new ones, mainly to black or silver, there's a shop here that makes that for me, but your read looks very very good!
    Thanks man! It's not perfect, but is super nice for doing this at home. Might try the shock towers next.
    Jeremy

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. DiggerPede's Avatar
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    Ooooh I like! I think i'm going to have to give this a shot in the future. I'll be playing the video instructions here shortly.

    Awesomeness!!
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  18. #18
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    Just keep in mind that there is a learning curve with this. It took me several tries before I finally anodized successfully. Distilled water, aluminum quality and power supply are key. Be patient and have fun with it. It is really quite cool once you get the process down and opens the door to some really cool upgrades to your RC.
    Jeremy

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    although I think the wheel hexes are what's gonna give me fits
    If your not overly concerned about the threads, or at least where it wont show, maybe an aluminum pipe fitting would do the job.
    It may take a couple fittings but should work.
    Something like this for the nut, then reverse it for the hub.
    Not positive but it may make an sufficient connection, and give an area to connect your aluminum wire.
    Just a thought.
    http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/59..._fittings.html
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  20. #20
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    I have a few ideas with the aluminum wire. I should be able to get it. There will be some bare aluminum spots on the threads, but those won't be seen once installed so shouldn't be a big deal.
    Jeremy

  21. #21
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    I think I might go ahead and deanodize the shock towers on Wednesday. If I have time, I may anodize them as well. I'll post pics.

    Jeremy
    Jeremy

  22. #22
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    Nice project!

  23. #23
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    Thanks!

    Jeremy
    Jeremy

  24. #24
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    Working on the front shock tower today. Ready for anodizing.

    Jeremy

  25. #25
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    Finished the shock tower. The motor mount is darker. I think I'll need to use a bigger piece of aluminum for the cathode. The shock tower anodized well, but I think it was pushing the limit size wise.


    Jeremy

  26. #26
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    Oh man!! I so want red anodized parts too

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    Oh man!! I so want red anodized parts too
    Sent you a pm.

    Jeremy
    Jeremy

  28. #28
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    Okay, going to check....

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    That looks awesome! Can you take a short vid next time you anodize one?
    200, 202, 420, humor 404, 301 to rc10talk, 410.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by danielhr77 View Post
    That looks awesome! Can you take a short vid next time you anodize one?
    Not sure when I'll be able to but I'll see what I can do.

    Jeremy
    Jeremy

  31. #31
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    Something else to mention is I was finally able to anodize a part in black. That is an accomplishment because black is the hardest to do. It is made up of all colors and being able to do it is a testament to having good pore size. So, this process is pretty solid.

    Jeremy
    Jeremy

  32. #32
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    Awesome! FOr now, I'll stay with the ano shop, I don't think I have enough patience to do it... Keep the good work!
    200, 202, 420, humor 404, 301 to rc10talk, 410.

  33. #33
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    Working on the hex nuts tonight. After deanodizing:



    Into the anodizing tank:

    Jeremy

  34. #34
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    Finished up the hex nuts. Before anodizing, I did a quick polish on them to give them a little shine.





    They look great with my black hex adapters. Sorry for the bad lighting.



    Jeremy

  35. #35
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    wow im blown away.....


    the biggest thing that got me is that you use basic rit dye. awsome!

    and how is the finish/durability....after you anodized the part did the anodizeing come off eazly.
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  36. #36
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    Wow, that is absolutely amazing!! You should do a video on your process to explain how it works and what you use. Way to step up the customizing game of RC lol

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

  37. #37
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    never thought of it but i can finaly have red 17mm hex hub's for the pede
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    wow im blown away.....


    the biggest thing that got me is that you use basic rit dye. awsome!

    and how is the finish/durability....after you anodized the part did the anodizeing come off eazly.
    After anodizing, I let the parts air dry. Then I wipe them off with a terry cloth. You get an initial haze of color that comes off but it's not much. The pics were taken after I wiped them off. I would say it's just a color residue that's left on the part after the sealing process.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Wow, that is absolutely amazing!! You should do a video on your process to explain how it works and what you use. Way to step up the customizing game of RC lol

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
    There is a link earlier in this thread to the process I use. I've tweaked it here and there which is something you just have to do to figure out what works best for you and the conditions you have.

    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    never thought of it but i can finaly have red 17mm hex hub's for the pede
    Yep. It's time consuming but I enjoy seeing the results.

    Jeremy
    Jeremy

  39. #39
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    Hmm how did I miss that lol. Again awesome job on those parts. Can't wait to see everything sompleted.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Hmm how did I miss that lol. Again awesome job on those parts. Can't wait to see everything sompleted.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
    Thanks. It will take somevtime to get everything done. I'll keep yall updated.

    Jeremy
    Jeremy

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