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  1. #1
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    Questions about 1/16 e revo

    I got my brushed merv back in April, and have a few questions about it. I want to get the proline trencher tires with the traxxas dish rims, and I want to know how to gear it properly. Also how am I supposed to know when my diff is perfectly shimmed? I have the associated shims. I might also upgrade to brushless and want to know what motor is cheapest and best, I will get the sidewinder 1/10 as the esc. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    In terms of the motor, you should be fine with the velineon 380. The sidewinder will be more than enough power for you on lipos. the gearing should be fine with that motor and those tires. as for the shimming:
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...jimmie+neutron
    Drive. Crash. Fix. Repeat.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the info funny! But I have my bulkhead taken apart and have no diff fluid. Could I go without the fluid? Also my shocks are leaking and I am going to get the gpm ones. Are the springs that come with it good for 1-3 foot jumps?

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Fluid is essential if you want traction.

    The brushed version is fine for what you want in upgrades... as far as gearing, only a temperature gun can tell you that.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  5. #5
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    Is fluid the stuff inside or outside, because I have the inside stuff but not the outside stuff…

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    Inside the differential.
    Any grease will work for the inside of the bulkhead, but I chose to use none due to the simple fact that grease + dirt = sandpaper.

    Usually, the differential leaked enough to keep the ring and pinion lubed yet not enough to attract enough dirt to hurt anything.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  7. #7
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    Great info. Now that I know my brother has grease for his airsoft gun that I could use for my bulkhead if I choose to use it, I'm sure he'll let me.

  8. #8
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    At least half fill the diff (I do about 3/4)
    The bulkhead I dust inside with Graphite powder, dry lubes and repels dirt.

  9. #9
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    I have some graphite powder i could use, and about the shocks, should I get the aluminum shock towers or are those a waste of money?

  10. #10
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    I LOVE this stuff:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I spray some in a cup and apply it with a small brush. when it dries you have a 100% Teflon coating - SWEET!
    PERFECT for R&P and transmission gears IMO
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    The Revo doesn't have shock towers... there are shock mounts, though.
    Aluminum shock mounts wouldn't be a whole lot of improvement I imagine. They are really small to begin with so I doubt there is much flex there.

    If you are talking about body mounts, no... aluminum there is a bad idea is that area needs to flex when you flip it over.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  12. #12
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    Ok, I am having problems with the rear bulkhead. I've been trying to shim it, but with 0,1,2,3, or 4 shims it's always hard to spin the pinion! (Havent done the front yet.) Do I need to get another bulkhead?
    Last edited by lando calrician; 09-07-2013 at 01:32 PM.

  13. #13
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    You might not need shims if it's hard to spin with them on.
    addicted much....

  14. #14
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    should NOT be hard at all. If there is one spot that is SLIGHTLY tight that's probably OK.

    If the diff does not spin freely with no shims something is wrong! maybe a bad bearing or?
    Check if it spins free without the pinion installed. You have to determine where the friction is coming from.
    Check bearings carefully

    And, the finisher is absolutely right, there is no mandate to have shims - some don't need any!
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    The cup can be overtightened... depending on the weight of the oil, you may not be able to spin it by hand, but you should be able to spin it with a little more leverage.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  16. #16
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    Alright, I probably forgot to put a piece behind he bulkhead once and screwed in the screws and then realized I had to put that piece on. The screw pushed the plastic in and was rubbing against the teeth, but its all good now. My bearings are fine too.

  17. #17
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    Can anyone tell me what gearing they use for the dirt hawgs?(not on Titus beadlocks)

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    I used stock "speed" gearing on 2S.

    But, the only way to tell what works for you is to use a thermometer.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  19. #19
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    I can't find the gpm shocks anywhere but ebay, they seem to be discontinued. I can't find any good shocks exempt the gtr and those are like $65! I am on a budget and need to find some good shocks! Also I want a lipo! I've heard the spc 2500 is good, but what charger do I need to buy? Is there anything special I have to do each charge?
    Last edited by lando calrician; 09-13-2013 at 05:46 PM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by lando calrician View Post
    I can't find the gpm shocks anywhere but ebay, they seem to be discontinued. I can't find any good shocks exempt the gtr and those are like $65! I am on a budget and need to find some good shocks! Also I want a lipo! I've heard the spc 2500 is good, but what charger do I need to buy? Is there anything special I have to do each charge?
    The Toyz still have GPM shocks in stock. They only have red, green and orange in stock though. Here is a link to the red:

    http://www.thetoyz.com/Traxxas/Mini-...sis/GPM/12501/

    If you are on a budget I think you would be better off getting the Hot Racing aliminum shock bodies and using everything else from your stock shocks. Here is a link to the Hot Racing aluminum shock bodies:

    http://www.thetoyz.com/Traxxas/Mini-...-Racing/12443/

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    I was going to suggest the same thing... HR shock bodies:
    http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?ma...ducts_id=61833

    As far as which charger...

    On a budget: Simple balance charger
    -- Will take ~132 minutes from LVC to 4.2v/cell.

    Spending a little more: EZPeak+
    -- Will take ~42 minutes from LVC to 4.2v/cell.

    Possibly the only charge set-up you will ever need: iCharger + power supply.
    I was able to purchase mine for less than $200... and can safely charge up to 6 of the 2500mAh packs in ~42 minutes.
    Last edited by Jimmie Neutron; 09-14-2013 at 10:17 AM.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  22. #22
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    Does the balance charger auto turn off?

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
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    I believe so... might be good to find and read the manual on it though.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by lando calrician View Post
    Does the balance charger auto turn off?
    .....The status LEDs confirm how many cells are charging, and let you know when charging is complete.


    I believe that every Li-PO charger has a cut-off. It is much to dangerous not to have

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