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Thread: Rags to Riches

  1. #121
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    Went to the races tonight. Finished 2nd in the heat and 2nd in the feature. Made it to the main and blew a right front shock, kept right going and finished 4th out of 7 trucks. Best finishes so far and not to shabby in the main considering I toasted the shock on lap 3. Ran 7 more laps on a messed up front end. Basically had no suspension on the front right. The shock cap popped off and the shock was just flopping around.
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  2. #122
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    So today's $25,000 question. I sold my proline transmission (never used it) and I have a few bucks to spend. I have 2 transmissions now, one for racing and one for bashing. The racing transmission is in a stock traxxas housing but stuffed with HR parts and proball diff. I wanna change the housing. I don't need to do different toe set ups as the protrac kit does fine with how it's set up. I searched through the forums to see what guys were using for a lightweight racing application and i see so many results I can't decide. At one point back in 2009, Integy housings were recommended. So...have things changed since then? I want a housing I can swap out as easily as I can with traxxas parts and be able to change transmissions in just a few minutes.. No toe block or skid changing. What are my best options?

    At the moment, one of these two has my fancy. And leaning more towards the carbon composite model because I will have to drill a hole so I can adjust the proball diff...and it's $20 cheaper.

    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...TE12HX01;c=416 which is aluminum
    or
    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...TE12GX01;c=416 which is carbon fiber
    Last edited by Thefixxer73; 10-24-2013 at 12:04 AM.
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  3. #123
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The carbon composite(not CF) will do fine in a racing application. You will need a rear bumper that connects under the rear transmission and not to the motor plate with either of the 2 links above. Using the stock rear wheeliebar mount can cause the motor plate to bend. T-bone and swami make good under mount bumpers and wheeliebars, but the swami will get tweaked and need bent back often.
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  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    The carbon composite(not CF) will do fine in a racing application. You will need a rear bumper that connects under the rear transmission and not to the motor plate with either of the 2 links above. Using the stock rear wheeliebar mount can cause the motor plate to bend. T-bone and swami make good under mount bumpers and wheeliebars, but the swami will get tweaked and need bent back often.
    Thanks rag6. Carbon fiber it is and T-Bone bumper ordered. Still deciding on which wheelie bar and if I even want to use one for racing. I haven't been racing with the wheelie bar on. Just been programming a little less punch into the ESC before races and loosening the slipper a tad more. The graphite pads grip the plate better than stock pads so I have the slipper dialed out a full turn. This has kept the front end down considerably and I haven't had to use the wheelie bar.
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  5. #125
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    New parts arrived today. Watch a little football and wrench on rags to riches is planned for tonight. Little dude will be right next to me installing my old RPM carriers on Blue Ice.

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  6. #126
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    Little bit of a late start tonight on installing the upgrades. I was dragged to a dinner party that I "forgot" about. So far I just have the front springs and the left side steering block replaced. I went with the red springs from the Hot Racing spring set. I will have to look up the rate on them but by feel they closely resemble the black ultra shock springs. We will see when I get it all put back together and do the drop test. I still have the rear springs to replace, left side steering block and both rear carriers, and the motor mount plate to do yet. TheFixxer01 will have to do his upgrades tomorrow. It got too late and it's a school night.



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  7. #127
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    Midnight. Just got everything done. I will post the pics in the morning. A little disappointed I had to modify the motor lock plate a bit to clear the spur gear but it should help keep the motor flush. Red springs in the rear aren't going to work. Too soft. I'll try the silver or black tomorrow morning and see what's up. Pleased with the look of the aluminum carriers. With the exception of the protrac arms the whole front end is strc now.
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  8. #128
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Which spur were you using, and could you show a pic of the lock plate mod? Also wondering how much heat that will absorb through the screws? You are getting parts about every other day... a little overboard, but overboard is awesome!

    That HR gearbox... the plastic has a high carbon content. It is very stiff. Should be good for racing keeping everything aligned...
    Last edited by rag6; 10-25-2013 at 12:21 AM.
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  9. #129
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    I installed the lock plate in my bashing transmission so just using a traxxas 86T, but I did test fit in my racing transmission and the HR spur has the same problem. I suspect that using the new HR housing will allow for using the lock plate without mods. Also noteworthy is I have the strc ST3691GM motor heatsink plate mounted between the motor and transmission. I will have to post the pic of the mod I did this afternoon after work. Couldn't get on the forums this morning for some reason.

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  10. #130
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  11. #131
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    So I have been reading about the performance gains I can get with balancing my tires. Especially since I am racing the truck 2 nights a week, I thought maybe I should look into it a bit more. I looked around today for a balancer but the prices on them are outrageous and I would rather put that kinda money into the truck itself. After watching a few youtube vids of ho-made units I thought what the hey, I'll design it as I go. I grabbed a chunk of 2x4, 4 4" wood screws, an RPM bearing carrier, a couple bearings, a rear axle stub, a rear plastic camber link, a rear a-arm, an aluminum wheel hex, a 4mm flanged nut, a Teflon washer, and an axle pin. Came up with this....









    Now, it's not pretty nor is it precision, but it works. The camber link sticks through a hole drilled in the upright piece of wood to hold the bearing carrier plum. The hole is just big enough to give a tight fit for the camber link and it doesn't slide easily, so it holds tight. I got out the camber gauge to make sure I had the tire at 0 camber and it worked like a charm. I just finished balancing the trenchers so I'll get out the racing tires (PL Hole Shot) next. Then I will have TheFixxer2001 do his MJs.
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  12. #132
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    First Sunday in awhile that I haven't had my truck half torn apart installing goodies. I do have the new transmission housing from HR on the way but that won't get here until Wednesday. Just kinda relaxed an watched some football waiting for 5:30 to get here and head to the track. It's race night. The truck is pretty much race ready for tonight. I did switch the rear springs to the HR silver and they appear to be about the same as the Ultra springs I had on before that I had painted black. We will see how they work out. TheFixxer01 won't be racing tonight as there were not enough entries to run his class for tonight so I will make him my pit crew. He'll dig that.
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  13. #133
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    Just got back from the track. Best finishes so far (except the main). Finished 2nd in the qualifying heat, 1st in the feature, and 6th in the main. Had a great pit crew (TheFixxer01), he did a rear spring change between the qualifying heat and the feature, changed my battery packs, and did a slipper clutch adjustment, although a tad tight and I think it affected the WOT steering resulting in the 6th place finish. I didn't like the silver HR springs in the rear so went back to the good `ol Ultra shock springs for the feature and main. Won a couple gift certificates so not so bad......I gotta keep trying for a better finish in the main for that cash purse.

    Looking into a different motor to pair up with my HW esc. Going up against a lot of Velineons and Castles in that 3500 to 3800 range and maybe that is my downfall. There are 3 other trucks running on a regular basis that are bigger than my 4700kv but I have never seen them get past the feature. I have the jump out of the gate for the 1st couple laps but by about lap 3-5 I start losing ground and it's hard to catch up...especially if I make an error. Maybe a gear change would be enough. I race at 19/86. Any suggestions for a gearing to try? I'm racing again Tuesday night so if someone has a suggestion throw it at me. I really need some time to run some lap times but I won't have time Tuesday to run any practice so it will be a race time decision and hope for the best.
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  14. #134
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    I'm digging the tire balancer, great idea and execution. I'd watch balancing them while they are wet or if you have any water on the inside. Once the tire dries out it may change the balance of the tire. Looking forward to seeing more pictures/updates of yours and your son's truck

  15. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltim0re28 View Post
    I'm digging the tire balancer, great idea and execution. I'd watch balancing them while they are wet or if you have any water on the inside. Once the tire dries out it may change the balance of the tire. Looking forward to seeing more pictures/updates of yours and your son's truck
    Yep yep, made sure they were dry before I balanced them. Read an old thread from years ago on RCPlanet about a kid who could never get his tires balanced and come to find out he was balancing them wet so the foams were soaked.

    Little dude has a few upgrades he's gotta get done and I am sure he want's to share them with you. All of the sudden he has a girlfriend and I can't get him off the phone. He has my old RPM carriers to put on, he ordered some blue strc casters, blue shock caps, blue aluminum tie bar, and I got a big surprise planned in the next couple days for him that will require a fair amount of work to do. Can't divulge that entirely just yet.....he is nosy enough as it is. There is a package on the kitchen table for him that is an early xmas present and it's for his truck, he knows that much. Funny thing is since it arrived he has been comparing the size of that box to stuff at the LHS.
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  16. #136
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    How are your temps throughout the race? That will tell you if gearing up would be adviseable. I really don't see a reason why you couldnt gear down a tooth or more on the pinion, but temps can change. The castle guys can gear up quite a bit more with the 4-pole 3800kv. Villineon ones are 2-pole 3500kv, which they are fast, but will have to watch their temps. You do need a sweet spot between heat and speed. Another good option is the Vektor 4000kv (HPI rebranded Castle). This would save you a little money and give you a possible slight advantage to them. The CC 3800kv are really hard to beat though. Another thought would be to add a Heatsink Fin to your motor to add some cooling.

    These are just my thoughts. There are guys that do a ton of racing that could help you out a bunch more. Hit up rag6, i know he does some once in a while.
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  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    How are your temps throughout the race?.
    I'm only hitting 140 on a 10 lap race so I suspect I can jump the pinion down a couple teeth. The good news is my HR TE12GX01 composite gear case w/ aluminum plate came today (2 days early) so I will get to run it tomorrow night provided I can get the racing transmission rebuilt into it before then. Unfortunately I won't have time to run practice laps with it so i am going to jump out on a limb and gear 17/86. The HR transmission might allow another tooth down providing it's cooling capabilities so I if I make it through the qualifying heats I might jump down a tooth for the feature to 16/86.

    That Vektor motor....can you run 3 or 4S through it? With my HW 4700kv I am limited to 2S and it's fast as heck but 3S or 4S would definitely give me a edge. $60 shipped is very reasonable too. I have the HW SC8 esc and it will handle up to 4S.
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  18. #138
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    I have no Idea what I was thinking. You need to bump up on the pinion. Forgive me!! I started right and contradicted myself.

    Gear up more speed.
    Gear down less speed, more torque

    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    I'm only hitting 140 on a 10 lap race so I suspect I can jump the pinion down a couple teeth. The good news is my HR TE12GX01 composite gear case w/ aluminum plate came today (2 days early) so I will get to run it tomorrow night provided I can get the racing transmission rebuilt into it before then. Unfortunately I won't have time to run practice laps with it so i am going to jump out on a limb and gear 17/86. The HR transmission might allow another tooth down providing it's cooling capabilities so I if I make it through the qualifying heats I might jump down a tooth for the feature to 16/86.
    Cool man. I'd start out and bump up a couple teeth and see what happens with the new gearbox. Keep an eye on your motor, esc, and battery afterwards to. The advantage you have is a higher KV. Which in turn you have more RPM.

    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    That Vektor motor....can you run 3 or 4S through it? With my HW 4700kv I am limited to 2S and it's fast as heck but 3S or 4S would definitely give me a edge. $60 shipped is very reasonable too. I have the HW SC8 esc and it will handle up to 4S.
    If I remember correctly (I just looked also) the Vektor 4000kv it is rated for up to 3S. You would have to gear down to probably like 16/86 with this one and go from there. I know the CC 3800kv is crazy on 3S with 16/86 or 19/86.
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  19. #139
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    ^^ right on brother. Just ordered the Vektor.
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  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    ^^ right on brother. Just ordered the Vektor.
    Awesome!! Hope you like it. When I first found them I picked up a couple of them for $100 shipped. One has been bashed in my Slash for well over a year. It's crazy fast on 2S. I'd say i'm geared 21 or 23 and 87 and the temps are just right. But thats with the smallish Slash tires. I could actually gear up a few more for more speed. The other one is in my Rusty with 32 pitch gearing. I can show you a pic of it if you want.

    Hope you have the same luck. Oh and hit up OG. He picked up the same motor right after I did. Not sure if he ever used it while he was racing.

    Here is a pic of it in my Rusty.


    Couldnt find one of it installed on my Slash. Might be on my phone and never uploaded to photobucket.
    Last edited by DiggerPede; 10-28-2013 at 04:37 PM. Reason: added pic
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  21. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    But thats with the smallish Slash tires.
    Should be fine for me then. I race on 2.2 PL HoleShots on RPM revolver rims. Was using HPI white 5 spoke rims but wrecked one baking it to get the tire off to tape them. I have the parts to convert my p2de over to 32 pitch but I have yet to strip a 48 spur in either one of my transmissions so I have just left it be. Plus my racing transmission I am using HR aluminum spurs and HR pinions so I can't imagine stripping a spur for awhile.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Villineon ones are 2-pole 3500kv, which they are fast, but will have to watch their temps. You do need a sweet spot between heat and speed.
    Just for conversation..what do you suppose they are geared? Racers don't share set up details but for "future" reference it might be nice to know what Velineons are typically geared.
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  23. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    Just for conversation..what do you suppose they are geared? Racers don't share set up details but for "future" reference it might be nice to know what Velineons are typically geared.
    I would gear as high as you could with a 2S (keeping all temps in check). Remember a 2S is going to be much lighter than a 3S typically, especially for such a light truck. You want to be able to control the power you have on tap and utilize that on the straights. With a 4wd truck you can really control 3S and above much better.

    Anyways back to your gearing. I'm not sure, but the guys around me were geared 19/86 with their pedes and a few teeth higher on their slashes.
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  24. #144
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    Gonna depend how big your track is. On my carpet track, I always had better lap times being very slightly over geared. My temps were running @ 155 after a 5 min race and I got the best times with either the castle 4600 or vxl motor geared that way. I would get the motor to 160 after 4 min, then loosen the slipper to keep temps down.

    I wound up with 87/21 for the 4600 and 87/22 for the vxl to keep the temps in range.
    Last edited by rag6; 10-29-2013 at 05:24 PM.
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    All good info to know "just in case" a Velineon system would happen to find its way under the hood of say...my son's truck.
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  26. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    All good info to know "just in case" a Velineon system would happen to find its way under the hood of say...my son's truck.
    Now I am really thinking I know what's in that package on the table.
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  27. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Here is a pic of it in my Rusty.
    Looks pretty much the same as my 4700 EZRun. Just different logo on the end of the can. Tracking puts it here tomorrow. I'll use it for racing next Sunday. Didn't make it to the track tonight. Too many other things going on.

    Nice clean rusty by the way.
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  28. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFixxer01 View Post
    Now I am really thinking I know what's in that package on the table.
    You keep thinkin kiddo.
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  29. #149
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    hmmm sposda stay off the build thread?????
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  30. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    hmmm sposda stay off the build thread?????
    That was another thread I had started for his truck before he asked if he could have his own user on here. Far as I know he has stayed out of that thread but the hints have been dropped a lot between my thread and the one he started.
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  31. #151
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    Any suggestions for a good racing spec servo or is my 2070 good enough?
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  32. #152
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    A boost in servo speed as well as torque will improve steering response. My savox 0251 servo is about the same speed as the 2070/2075, but has much more torque. On carpet, the extra torque made a huge difference in response, even know it was not faster, it felt faster. There are some cheap overseas servos that have been getting good reviews, but of course the qc from these companies can make the purchase a crap shoot. I do try to stay with reputable companies when it comes to servos.
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  33. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Gonna depend how big your track is. On my carpet track, I always had better lap times being very slightly over geared. My temps were running @ 155 after a 5 min race and I got the best times with either the castle 4600 or vxl motor geared that way. I would get the motor to 160 after 4 min, then loosen the slipper to keep temps down.

    I wound up with 87/21 for the 4600 and 87/22 for the vxl to keep the temps in range.
    Oh and listen to this guy. He hits the track.

    Do you have the same thoughts on staying with a 2S pack on 2wd? You know to keep the weight and speed down somewhat?
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  34. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiggerPede View Post
    Oh and listen to this guy. He hits the track.

    Do you have the same thoughts on staying with a 2S pack on 2wd? You know to keep the weight and speed down somewhat?
    Yep, the track isn't big enough to run 3s.
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    Oh boy. The herd just got bigger. I will be posting soon in the slash threads. Just bought a vxl slash roller complete with everything but a motor (which I also bought a Velineon for) that I will be building as a dedicated racer. Rags to Riches will be just a basher now. So excited. Although kinda regret giving my brother the trencher SC and PL split 6's I had. Oh well.
    Last edited by Thefixxer73; 10-30-2013 at 11:09 PM.
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  36. #156
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    Rags to Riches

    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    Oh boy. The herd just got bigger. I will be posting soon in the slash threads. Just bought a vxl slash roller complete with everything but a motor (which I also bought a Velineon for) that I will be building as a dedicated racer. Rags to Riches will be just a basher now. So excited. Although kinda regret giving my brother the trencher SC and PL split 6's I had. Oh well.
    I HATE to say it but you are going to love that truck. They are a blast to drive and are really tough little trucks. I beat the snot out of mine. The only thing better is the 4wd version.

    If you ever want to get crazy, check out "thedreadedend"s Monster Slash. You'd think it was a Pede on steroids.

    I have a thead or two hidden around there. I'll check out the progress of your build. BTW just to let you know I started with 2 Pedes, then a Slash, now i'm 13 trucks deep (or somthing like that). haha
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-31-2013 at 07:14 AM.
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  37. #157
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    I can't wait for it to get here. I am going to continue to race rags to riches until I have the slash built. I assume many of the pede and slash parts are the same.....that or I am going to need a bigger parts box. I already carry around parts for 2 pedes and enough of them to build an almost complete 3rd truck.
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  38. #158
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    The Pede/Slash/Rusty use lots of interchangeable parts. Good and bad, but I find more good if you own them. If one breaks more than likely you'll have something that can be used to repair the other. Can't wait to see the build.
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  39. #159
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    Dont listen to me until I correct my last post haha. I went back through my setup sheets and the vxl was geared 87/20 to keep temps in line 8)
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Dont listen to me until I correct my last post haha. I went back through my setup sheets and the vxl was geared 87/20 to keep temps in line 8)
    So I should not take what you say as gospel right away?
    Bash it `til it bleeds!!

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