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Thread: Rags to Riches

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by dugsguns View Post
    Be careful if/when u decide to drill the right side, on my digger I did an excellent job, on my nephews curse, so far im 0 for 2, he has ripped out 2 screws on that side. He doesn't care since hes 9 , but it annoys the heck outta me, heh.
    Did you drill from the bottom or from the side? Did you use a screw and bolt? What went wrong? I thinking drilling a hole with that little material will be a challenging getting enough "meat" to hold.

  2. #42
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    A quick note about the tires.....After a month of using them I am not happy with the condition the rear tires. They look really cool but they are so soft that using a powerful torque monster BL has all but shred the tread and torn the traction knobs up. They work great on the front but definitely not recommended for BL systems on the rear. My kid will probably inherit these for his brushed pede.

  3. #43
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    Decided to get a new body today and cash in some of my reward points at the LHS. Nothing really wrong with the Prographics body I have on it now, but I wanted to try my hand at at my first paint job on a clear body. Prographics was easy as all the graphics are pre painted and you just hit it with a background color. I contemplated doing a sharpie body but in all honesty I can't draw to save my life and I don't know anyone that could do it for me. So I decided on a 2 color job. Rustoleum has a silver spray paint that looks like hammered steel so I'm going with that as the main color. Then some nice white (or black, haven't decided) racing stripes from front to back. Decided to black out the windows with flat black as I don't care for the clear look. Going to cut a hole in the bed for the ESC to breath and slam the body mounts down as low as I can get them. The body I went with is a 1/10 PARMA Chevy 454SS (PAR10331). Nice straight mean looking lines. I use to own a K2500 Chevy and really liked that tough boxy look. I will of course post pics of the finished product. It's sitting on the work bench now in the first coat of liquid mask.

  4. #44
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    Hmmm....the hammered sliver didn't work as expected...seems only the side exposed to air gives the uneven hammered effect. Tested it on a scratch piece of lexan...just looks silver through a clear body...so I went white with black racing strips up the hood cab and tail gate. I don't think I did that great of a job but it was my first. I am really not proud of it but it is what it is. I'll prolly use this body for bashing. Maybe I can do some touch up on it to straighten lines and cover goof ups. I haven't drilled body post holes yet but you get the idea how it looks. I think my headlight decals are wrong.












  5. #45
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    So here it all is with a parts list. Not sure what else to upgrade next. I guess I will just drive til something breaks and upgrade from there.

    Proline Protrac Kit
    1.5” chassis extension
    F & R RPM bearing carriers
    VBX sealed bearings in all carriers
    STRC aluminum Steering casters
    Fiberglass tie bar
    Rear Traxxas aluminum camber links on the front ( because of protract kit)
    RPM Wide front bumper
    Traxxas Big Bore shocks w/ 2-hole pistons, 40w oil, 2.8 Rate Ultra shock springs
    RPM Spring guards
    STRC Aluminum locking 12mm wheel hex’s
    MIP CVDs drive shafts
    Traxxas rear bumper
    Traxxas wheelie bar
    Traxxas rubber wheelie bar tires
    Magnum 272 transmission VBX sealed bearings
    Traxxas Pro Ball bearing differential
    Hot Racing steel 48p pinion and spur gears
    Hot Racing graphite oversized slipper clutch pads
    Traxxas 2070 high torque steering servo
    STRC aluminum motor plate
    Traxxas TQ Link 2.4 Tx/RX
    Hobbywing SC8 120A ESC
    Hobbywing 3656 4-pole sensorless 4700kV brushless motor geared 19/87
    Venom 6500mah 35c 2S
    TRX connectors
    Team Orion IQ60S charger
    Tires - 2.8” Proline Trenchers on 2.8” Desperado front rims F & R

    All built from scratch by hand. Started life out of the box new in 2006 as an RTR with a stinger motor. None of the original truck remains except for the front body posts and even those are shortened. The RPM front bumper you see on the truck now though was the first upgrade I bought for the truck in 2006.
    Last edited by Thefixxer73; 10-06-2013 at 10:45 PM.

  6. #46
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    Hey, I came up with a new extension part... It is bash tested, and a much better fit, and stronger... using a cut up rear shock tower lol. It is almost as easy as the original... I will either update the 5$ thread or just start "the new and improved 5$ chassis extension". If you have an extra rear stock shock tower, try it when I post up the how too...
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  7. #47
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    Sweet. Can't wait to see it.
    Last edited by Thefixxer73; 10-07-2013 at 07:54 AM.

  8. #48
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    Darn it. went to drill post holes this morning and discovered that in my hast last night to see what the body looked like on the truck I peeled the protective film off that had the marks for my holes on it it. Now I don't know where to drill the holes. LOL. Any ideas how to line everything up to get the holes in the right spot?

  9. #49
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    Put a drop of shock oil on the posts, then carefully lower the body on to the posts. When you pull the body back up, the oil will mark where the holes should be.
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  10. #50
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    Fixxer, painting lids could possibly be the biggest sore thumb of this hobby lol. Don't feel bad, few of us come out of the paint booth even mildly satisfied. Your list of mods is really nice, but I have to ask, are you running the ball diff, and if so, how has it been handling the brushless power? I want one in my rusty bad

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    are you running the ball diff, and if so, how has it been handling the brushless power? I want one in my rusty bad
    I do have the Traxxas Pro Ball installed but have only ran it around the basement to test for function. I haven't had a chance to get it out in the dirt yet and run WOT or bash on it yet. Tomorrow is the plan for that.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Put a drop of shock oil on the posts, then carefully lower the body on to the posts. When you pull the body back up, the oil will mark where the holes should be.
    Used a dab of blue loctite...worked perfect.....

  13. #53
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    So electrical tape is pretty cool stuff. Used it to dress up the bottom edge all the way around and tie the body into the chassis. Added a nice accent to all the white. Still 2nd guessing that whole white choice but what is done is done. lol. I know what I won't and will do the next time. I really want to do a sharpie body with skulls and such. I just can't draw worth a darn. Maybe tracing?


  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    If you have an extra rear shock tower lyin' around...

    http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/u.../tra3638-1.jpg

    I would do the swap the next time you pull that area apart...
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  15. #55
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    +1. Was hoping to see it up last night because I had the rear end apart last night installing the ball dif. I did change the 4 hole to a 2 hole so we will see how things go. I'm waiting for the rest of the crew to get there to a new bash site we found so I'm gonna go cut a shock tower up while I wait.

  16. #56
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    Key points:
    Make sure to drill the 4 new holes in the back chassis wall, and nothing connects to the chassis nubs any more.
    When looking at the truck from the side, with the truck pointing left, the shock tower should be oriented like this when attached to the chassis:

    X▓▓<<
    X▓▓
    X▓▓
    X▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓^^▓
    X▓▓<<
    XHH

    make sure the short side is down.

    Use 4 lock nuts, bolts, and washers(<<) in the chassis wall(X), none in the chassis nubs(HH), and 2 lock nuts bolts and washers, screw heads up through the bottom of the real shock tower thru the new extension with nuts on top(^^)
    It is easiest to completely install and fully tighten the nuts on the bottom 2 screws in the chassis wall before inserting the top 2.

    The old version left the trans cocked a bit adding a little anti squat. This version fits much better, perfectly actually, leaving the trans at the factory squat angle. The new version has much less side to side torsional twist, but leaves a little up/down flex for landing those 20 foot high jumps 8)

    I hope I have explained it well enough. Please post pics if you can.
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  17. #57
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    Makes 100% sense. I will work on that tonight when I get home from work.

  18. #58
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    Question about toe. As you know if you read my Problem in Spades thread from yesterday, I had some issues with my MIPs axle popping out of the output yoke and did a quick adjustment to the camber to suck the dogbone in a bit farther into the cup. When I got home after that bash to fix what I had broke, I got the camber gauge out to get my camber right. Well my trackside adjustment to combat the dogbone issue was still 1 degree positive so I adjusted all 4 corners to 2 degrees negative..which were all off. The lesson learned was even though setting the turnbuckles to the lengths they are suppose to be as shown in the manuals doesn't mean its going to be right when they are bolted onto the truck. My kid's pede is using stock plastic camber rods and one side is 5 degrees negative while the other is 2 negative. Don't get that but he has learned to drive it that way.

    So that got me thinking about my toe on the front. I don't really have a clue how to set it other than eyeballing it from above while I adjust the turnbuckle. I have seen a set board from Integy and RPM but even though I have spent over $1,000 on my pede, I can't justify buying a set board. The guru at the LHS suggested taking the tire off and bolting a wooden ruler to the axle and adjust against another ruler parallel to the truck til the ruler bolted to the axle is at a 1-2 degree angle from the straight ruler. Problem there is finding dead zero as the starting point because even a slight bump of the steering will cause the starting point to be off.

    I don't know what my toe is at the moment or if it is even off. If it is it can't be by much, my eye cannot see any toe out or in. How do you guys adjust your toe accurately?

  19. #59
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    I set the truck next to a wall and eyeball it. I normally use aprox 1-2. With a pede, the difference in length between the suspension arms and toe links is large, so the toe angle changes drastically as the suspension arms move up and down. That is called "bump steer". If the arms are not exactly even in the amount they are compressed when measured, the toe angle will be different from measurement to measurement. So... it is not an easy task to measure, let alone get it perfect and proportional from side to side on the toe links. You kind of have to guess-set it, then measure the length of the toe links to make sure they are equal, Then adjust for that. Far from an exact science. The ruler idea is a good one, just make sure they are drilled exactly the same from side to side, it may help make things easier.

    On my "my xl5" truck I am running 0 on camber and toe. I have never ran off road that way before, but really like the way it is working on that particular truck.
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  20. #60
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    So should I se the toe with the suspension crompressed or normal ride compression hieght?

  21. #61
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    Set it for normal ride height(near arms level).
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  22. #62
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    ^^ Ok, so I am gonna try 0 camber and toe in the front and see what shakes out. Off to the bash site.

  23. #63
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    Thanks for all your help with my build! I ordered a bunch of tuff for my pede. I really like the white with black stripes look. I spent a lot of time getting this body right and flipped it on a speed run within the first pack....It slid at 50mph to a stop on its top! ground completely through the body at the tail gate!!!! Good looking bodies never last long...unless they stay on the shelf!



  24. #64
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    ^^ Love it. Tire upgrade next?

  25. #65
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    IDK...Yah I got some crawler tires that im going to try when I get my protrac long arms! Im thinking swampers tsl...got them in 1.9 + 2.2s

  26. #66
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    All this talk today in other threads about drive shafts has made me decide to buy a set of tra6852x and use my steel output yokes. Ever since I installed the protrac kit I'm having problems with the right side popping out of the yoke with my MIPS CVD's. My guess is the rear arms being a little longer is causing the problem. I have set my camber to 2 negative and that isn't quite enough. They won't stay in unless its set at 6 negative and that just makes the truck stupid silly to handle in corners. Looks like the kid's pede is getting my Mips to go along with the proline transmission.

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    On my "my xl5" truck I am running 0 on camber and toe. I have never ran off road that way before, but really like the way it is working on that particular truck.
    0 toe seems to work great, but my truck doesn't like the 0 camber. The Trenchers seem to buckle the side wall in a hard turn and she flips head over heals. Might be different on a different tire but the trenchers fold under the pressure at 0 camber. 2 negative camber seems to be the sweet spot for my truck.

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger Dad View Post
    IDK...Yah I got some crawler tires that im going to try when I get my protrac long arms! Im thinking swampers tsl...got them in 1.9 + 2.2s
    What body is that btw? I really like it. Also, watch those crawler tires. I bought a set of RedCats crawler tires when I started my build and thought they were the coolest looking thing since sliced bread (see the beginning of this thread) but after only 2 months of pushing the torque of a 4700kv BL through them I all but shredded the rears. Too soft. 2.8" Proline Trenchers on Desperado rims are the way to go.

  29. #69
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    So, Friday night and instead of enjoying a night on the town I am sitting at the computer doing what else.....RC parts window shopping. I cam across a couple items of interest to put into my truck. I haven't bought the tra6852x yet and maybe I won't after stumbling across a couple things.

    There is part, TRA6851R, which is a CVD for the front Slash 4x4 Rally and and Stampede 4x4. Would my line of thinking be correct to assume these would work on a 2wd pede? Neat if it would, but I think I would still have the same issue with popping out of the yoke because I assume they would be the same length.....and at almost $80, hmmm, must be something cheaper.

    Which brought me to discover that Proline in their infinite wisdom, makes CVDs (6099-00 PRO-2) for those of us using the protrac kit. Plus I found a source to get them for less than $30.

    So, what is my best option? the tra6852x, tra6851R, or the Proline CVD's. I'm not worried about the cost, I want something that is going to work, work well, and work a long time.

  30. #70
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    the 6851r will not work. the front of the pede4x4 uses much larger bearings.
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  31. #71
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    I see that you were thinking about getting the 6852x for your p2de but then decided against it for the moment. Don't quote me on this but I believe that the 6852x shafts wot work with the steel output yokes that you were going to use them with. If I was you, I would definitely try the 6852x on your truck.. It's the cheapest option out off all of your options at about $20 and they have been proven to hold up to a good amount of abuse.

  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltim0re28 View Post
    Don't quote me on this but I believe that the 6852x shafts wot work with the steel output yokes that you were going to use them with..
    That would be good to know if they will work with steel yokes. I can get them for about $7 and I already have steel yokes (tra4626x) from before I upgraded to the MIPs. Im really leaning towards the Proline CVDs at the moment though. $30 is a pretty decent price for them......and they are Proline after all. Gotta really think about this...snap decisions have cost me too much cash..lol. I have spent more than I actually have in my truck.

  33. #73
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    You can use the original female 2wd shafts (with steel yokes) and slide them over the male end of 6852x. My xl5 old school shafts seem to be holding up a little better than 6852x, Even though they are built less beefy. The 6852x seem to be a softer plastic...
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  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    You can use the original female 2wd shafts (with steel yokes) and slide them over the male end of 6852x. My xl5 old school shafts seem to be holding up a little better than 6852x, Even though they are built less beefy. The 6852x seem to be a softer plastic...
    Ok, I will try that. Pulled the trigger I decided to get both the traxxas shafts and the proline CVD's. See which one's I like.

  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    What body is that btw? I really like it. Also, watch those crawler tires. I bought a set of RedCats crawler tires when I started my build and thought they were the coolest looking thing since sliced bread (see the beginning of this thread) but after only 2 months of pushing the torque of a 4700kv BL through them I all but shredded the rears. Too soft. 2.8" Proline Trenchers on Desperado rims are the way to go.
    Its a proline body for the savage i think...If you look you can see my custom front body mount.

  36. #76
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    Upgrades going on the truck today

    STRC aluminum bulkhead
    STRC threaded locking suspension pins
    STRC threaded king pins
    STRC clamp on wheel hexs
    STRC aluminum motor plate (finally, had lost it but found it this morning)
    Proline CVD extended axles (for protrac kit)
    Traxxas Digital 2075 servo (the 2055 seems to be catching on return to center)
    Novak glitch buster
    Last edited by Thefixxer73; 10-12-2013 at 12:19 PM.

  37. #77
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Just wondering, why the glitch buster?
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  38. #78
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    Rags to Riches

    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Just wondering, why the glitch buster?
    The guy at the LHS convinced me that it would be a good idea with the 2075 digital servo. Did he feed me a line?
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-12-2013 at 04:43 PM.
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  39. #79
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    Yes he did.

    The 2075 servo is a mouse when it comes to pulling amps. Any esc's BEC will handle the 2075 with no problem.

    Now if you owned a mamba max pro, and a 250 oz+ servo, then an external bec MAY be needed. The glitch buster is a bandaid, and an external bec is the cure, but you will not need it. I would be wary of that guy as he is either gonna rip you off, or is misinformed.
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  40. #80
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    Rags to Riches

    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Yes he did
    What a guy. Took it back and got my $ back and told him the info I learned from you...kinda shook his head and wished me luck. Guess I will find a different LHS or at least avoid that one when he is there. The other two guys usually point me in right direction.

    Acronyms containing filtered words are not permitted. Please watch the language, abbreviated or not. -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-12-2013 at 04:49 PM.
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