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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Stripped Spur Gear

    Figure every one knows what the look like, so not going to post a picture unless asked. Several questions, what would have caused it? The nylock nut backing off or something else? How hard is it to swap out? It doesn't look like there's any easy way to do it. Also any recommendations as to a replacement (tooth count,brand that sorta thing) ?
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Movement of the engine so that the clutch bell and spur don't line up or mesh properly or it took the brunt of the difference in tire rotation and engine speed--the brunt that should have been bared by the slipper clutch.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
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    Guess I'll find out more when I tear it down. Just not looking very forward to it. Hadn't thought much about the slipper. Right now the whole truck is sitting on top of the pit box waiting on me to get motivated to mess with it.
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  4. #4
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    Granted it needs to come almost completely apart for a good cleaning (can't believe how filthy it is) but working on this thing with out a good set of long handled allen wrenches is no fun at all. Looks like I will buy some more tools after work tomorrow.
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  5. #5
    RC Competitor
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    The Slayer uses basically an identical set-up as the Revo so it's not too bad to change the spur gear, how ever you will need to remove either the engine or the tranny, your choice. I would remove the engine that way you can inspect your clutch while it is apart. When you reassemble make sure the free play is not too tight or to loose. The paper method detailed in the owners manual works well for me. Most importantly you will want to make sure that all the engine mount bolts are tight and be sure to check them often...a little blue loc-tite also helps in this as well. Finally you will want to check your slipper tightness also. I like to run mine where I can just make it slip by gripping the spur and turning it by hand with the gear shaft locked with a hex wrench. That may be too tight depending on your running conditions but works well for me as I am just a basher. I hope this helps. P.S. If I were you I would definitely invest in a quality set of hex drivers. I worked on my trucks for a long time with the tools that came from traxxas and when I finally broke down and bought some better tools, wow what a difference...felt like kicking myself for waiting so long...money extremely well spent.

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
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    Quick Update. Pullled the motor, saw the ammount of grunge that had been trapped in various places and quickly decided on a fulll tear down and clean. Pads on the slipper clutch were gone and I needed a spur gear so while I had it apart I ordered some upgrades. Back together now, mesh is set. I am going by my old method on the slipper, full tight then back it off a quarter to half a turn. Just need to rebuild the shocks and adjust my linkages and trims and I should be all set for a bit.
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  7. #7
    RC Enthusiast
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    Alright, it's break time.. While adjusting everything back in it seems my clutch spring broke, and then to top it off after running it for five minutes to see how it handles I make a small six inch jump at about half throttle, land nice and level and then hear the sickening crunch of breaking parts, both BRAND NEW aluminum pillow balls on the right front snapped off leaving the shafts inside the a-arms! hurumph.
    So time to find a different vehicle and let the slayer sit for awhile.
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    BRAND NEW aluminum pillow balls on the right front snapped off leaving the shafts inside the a-arms!
    Ouch! I guess that's why the stock ones are steel.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  9. #9
    RC Enthusiast
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    I'm trying to look at it as a two fold lesson. A) stock parts work just fine, and B) no more buying used nitro.. it's literally been one thing after another with this truck.
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  10. #10
    RC poster
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlkDodgeTrck View Post
    I'm trying to look at it as a two fold lesson. A) stock parts work just fine, and B) no more buying used nitro.. it's literally been one thing after another with this truck.
    I second this! I've had my truck running long enough for my son to race it one night... I just tore down, cleaned and rebuilt the csrb. I'm starting question nitro. Electric seems so much easier to maintain.

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast
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    Don't get me wrong I don't plan on giving up on nitro, it's as realistic as you can get to me. It's just if and when I get another it will be brand new so that hopefully issues won't pop up one after another like I've had with this truck. It's sitting until I feel like ordering parts.
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  12. #12
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    My son bought a new one and didn't upgrade anything. He watched the DVD and did a lot of research online about breaking it in. The only thing we have had issues with is the slipper clutch.

    He just upgraded his tie rods a few days ago and I've done basic maintenance to the engine and carb. Otherwise it runs strong. Parts will fail depending on 2 variables: time and abuse. Negligence would fall under abuse. He is using a 38T slipped clutch gear largely because the local shop doesn't stock the 36T factory one. Its all about gear meshing that determines you slipper clutch lifespan and at $3 each, I'm not complaining.

    Inversely, I bought a non running slayer pro, put a lot of time sweat and frustration in and mine runs faster than his. Its all a matter of due diligence.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
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    Whether or not I would buy a used rc mainly depends on how familiar I am with that specific type vehicle.
    Last edited by Mark Ball; 09-26-2013 at 03:39 PM.

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