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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    86

    3.3 wont start - glow plugs wont glow? Ez Start

    Hi all, spent all day trying to get my engine to start no luck
    compression is good,
    fuel is getting to carb
    tried several glow plugs glow plug light lights up on ez start.
    I even tested voltage at glow plug, and its getting 1.5/1.6v, is that enough?
    I read online that the glow plug should glow when out of engine, connected to glow plug lead and earthed to the engine, but none of them did, so thats where I assume my issue is?

    Currently cycling the EZ start battery a few times, hoping that will help it.

    any ideas/advise welcome, thanks

  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    May 2008
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    Tanker 822
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    9,578
    Hold the threaded portion of the glow plug to a non-anodized portion of the engine and plug in the blue wire. If your yellow wire is good then it should glow. Did you test the voltage at the wand or at the ends of the blue and yellow wires? The wand has been known to have the pins get pushed up in it so that the harness will not connect with it so check they are all down.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
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    Feb 2013
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    86
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Hold the threaded portion of the glow plug to a non-anodized portion of the engine and plug in the blue wire. If your yellow wire is good then it should glow. Did you test the voltage at the wand or at the ends of the blue and yellow wires? The wand has been known to have the pins get pushed up in it so that the harness will not connect with it so check they are all down.
    I tested at the wand... Thanks I'll check the connector pins and report back

  4. #4
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    86
    Ok, so after much testing it ended up being the ez start wand not putting out enough voltage! 1.3v vs. 1.5v needed. When I connected a single AA it glowed straight away! Think I will get a separate ignitor and just use the ez start for turning engine over. Will eventually just switch to pull start.

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    5
    Just for an added view for you here. If it isn't putting out the right voltage, it is probably one of two things. The diode is may be leaking voltage to the bleed circuit which puts too much draw down on the voltage coming out of that last transistor in the circuit or that last transistor got way to hot and arced across the ground lead internally which would create the same issue. If you know the transistor number you can just solder a new one in place. In my opinion though, they need to put a much better heat sinc in place for the thing. It actually happens mostly because the operator (yes, us) hold the wand button too long allowing the heat to build up so great that the heat sinc will now allow the temperature to pass out of the heat sinc via convection to the surrounding air. And why does that happen, usually because the engine didn't fire off the first time and we need to do a better job keeping things in tune before we shut them down, not when we are starting them up. Just a component tech's point of view.

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    21
    This happened to me so I ditched the wiring and started using a glow igniter. Highly recommended. Go to a pull start and you can put away the ez start altogether.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
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    Jan 2012
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    orlando, fl
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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy_fo View Post
    This happened to me so I ditched the wiring and started using a glow igniter. Highly recommended. Go to a pull start and you can put away the ez start altogether.
    Definitely. Although im sadly still using the ez start and an igniter
    People Eating Tasty Animals

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