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  1. #1
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    any new solutions to the rear diff stripping issue?

    My son hasn't really driven the truck in a few months because he doesn't like to hear it click from the rear and I'm tired of buying a new diff ring and pinion weekly for it. We drove it again today and it was really bad. Just wondering in the past few months if anyone has come up with a better solution? I took it apart today and added a couple more shims, I believe I used 2 the first time but I could only find one on there which makes me think one disintegrated. Anyway, I had it nice and tight and still it clicks. I checked the bulkhead and it doesn't seem to have any cracks, the only thing that really jumps out at me is the diff never turns true, its always wobbling a bit which is where the problem is coming from I believe.

  2. #2
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    Would that Tbone chassis stiffner be better than an aluminum bulkhead or is the aluminum bulkhead better? I"m going to get a new plastic bulkhead, ring and pinion and side plastic/seals for the diff tomorrow then I need to find a better solution.

  3. #3
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    HR came up with a replacement ring and pinion gear, but I don't have any experience with it. I blew a few ring gears until I stepped to alu bulkheads. None since.

    When the damage is done, shimming doesn't help you anymore. It will not resolve the clicking.
    Even the tiniest damage on the ring gear is enough for quite some noise.
    Nobody is born with experience

  4. #4
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    yes, I shimmed the ring gear again and it still clicks but I believe most of the problem is that the diff never spins straight and unfortunately I have no idea how to fix that.

  5. #5
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    I would think ring gear wobble would be due to improper assembly of the diff, ie uneven torque on the screws, seals not placed properly. Or it could be poorly molded end caps.
    My tranny case is stock :D

  6. #6
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    so how do you put the diff together? It's like a big secret or something, I've search youtube and still no idea of the proper way to put it together. The thin end cap, do you put the seal on that and then put it on the ring gear or do you put the seal on the ring gear and then fit the thin end cap into it? I'm pretty sure thats where the problem is for me. I've tried messing with the screws and that hasn't made a difference no matter how tight or loose I make them.

  7. #7
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    Are the diffs really this bad in the Summit? I'm thinking of buying one, and reading this id turning me away so far.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwdaveb View Post
    Are the diffs really this bad in the Summit? I'm thinking of buying one, and reading this id turning me away so far.
    They aren't great in any of the 1/16th cars. If you drive properly, then its okay, I can backflip a whole pack off the trees in front of my house without stripping the diff, but if you don't release the throttle when landing or hitting something, the diff will go quickly. 3S will likely burn it out quickly too. My son kills the diff every week because he doesn't have the throttle control down yet. Still the diffs are definately weaker than other cars.

  9. #9
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    guess I was one of the lucky ones had mine for 5 months shimmed it out of the box and never had any diff issues...so I am clueless on this
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  10. #10
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    I just had my first diff go out a few weeks ago and I've had my MERV since a few days after they released them, on 3s no less.

    I don't know the best way to reassemble these diffs, I replaced mine with a complete rear bulk assembly I got off ebay for $16. I did take the stock diff apart to see if I could get it back together, I had to put the seal on the ring gear then fit the end cap over it. I haven't checked to see if it spins true though.

    I think the HR diff will be easier to assemble and the bearing on the ring side runs on the ring itself so it should run truer. Shouldn't be long till we start hearing how they work out in the real world
    My tranny case is stock :D

  11. #11
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    well I think I'm going to toss this thing in the garbage. No one hates throwing money out more than me, but this thing is getting stupid. I just replaced the diff yet again, new ring and pinion, new side plates on the diff, even did a new housing. Shimmed it up and low and behold, its still clicking. Not as bad as before , now its only on full throttle, but a new diff should not be clicking form doing nothing but pressing the trigger.

  12. #12
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    I know how you feel! I have the same problem with T-maxx trannies. I thought I had it solved with the 3.3 tranny, but my top shaft first gear shredded on me Friday night.
    My tranny case is stock :D

  13. #13
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    Well I just don't know what to do at this point, I've changed the thing 3 times and each time I put it in and it worked. I shimmed it pretty tight, maybe too tight? I'm going to try taking a shim out, but other than that, I guess I'll just have to buy fully assembled diffs as its obviously them being off center when they go together that is causing this problem. I put the diff together 3 times today trying to get it as straight as possible, I really don't have time to put it together 100 times to get it perfectly straight.

    I was thinking of trying the HR diff, but at 30 bucks a pop, thats not really something I"m crazy about especially since they don't sell the ring and pinion separate from the other peices.

  14. #14
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    What's the HR Diff? Are these truck worth buying? Suppose to call a guy about a used one with radio, 4 battery packs, extra tires and 1 2s lipo for $175 shipped. ot sure after seeing this thread

  15. #15
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    The HR diff is a metal replacement diff that hopefully will be straight and true when assembled unlike the plastic, but for the price its pretty rediculous.

    If you get the diff working correctly, and you know how to drive correctly, the diff should last. Doesn't last too well with a 4 YO, but for the price of these things, they aren't really that much cheaper than the bigger better constructed trucks.

  16. #16
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    robl45 you have complained about the diff in many threads but it sounds to me based on your own words you have not assembled the diff correctly or maybe done it repeatedly with a stripped diff cover, I cant say for sure not being there when it is assembled.

    If the diff is not spinning straight or true that is clearly the problem. The screws that hold the diff together must be tightened evenly so it spings true. If one of the holes is stripped (I have had this happen) then the cover needs to be replaced so it can be properly assembled. The kit comes with cover, screws, and a new eal for only a couple of bucks.

    My MERV is a few years old now and still running the stock diffs, the ORIGINAL stock diffs. When set up properly they work just fine.
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  17. #17
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    I agree, but getting it setup correctly is an exercise in frustration. As I said, today I got a new ring and pinion, new cover pieces and new bulkhead. There really isn't anything else to that assembly. I put it together 3 times and each time it wasn't straight. Heck, not one of the times I've rebuilt the diff has it been totally true, but they didn't click until my son managed to destroy them, not first time out after rebuilding. Honestly I"ve built many RC helicopters, cars, trucks etc in the past 26 years and this thing has me baffled

    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    robl45 you have complained about the diff in many threads but it sounds to me based on your own words you have not assembled the diff correctly or maybe done it repeatedly with a stripped diff cover, I cant say for sure not being there when it is assembled.

    If the diff is not spinning straight or true that is clearly the problem. The screws that hold the diff together must be tightened evenly so it spings true. If one of the holes is stripped (I have had this happen) then the cover needs to be replaced so it can be properly assembled. The kit comes with cover, screws, and a new eal for only a couple of bucks.

    My MERV is a few years old now and still running the stock diffs, the ORIGINAL stock diffs. When set up properly they work just fine.

  18. #18
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    well I ripped it apart again, 3rd time this weekend and took out a couple of shims as last time I shimmed it pretty tight. spun the drive shaft round and round and there were a couple of high spots but it was smooth. I locked both wheels and tried turning the shaft at various points and could not get it to skip teeth. The diff isn't spinning perfectly true but its pretty close. I've had spur gears on my helicopters that were worse than this. So I put it all back together and its clicking away again. my son going to be disappointed if I can't figure out how to get this fixed. I know its the rear as when I drive in reverse, there is no clicking. I'm debating taking the front diff out and swapping it for the rear, but since I started with a completely new diff today, I'm really doubting that will solve the problem unless the diff was defective or the housing was defective.

  19. #19
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    I know its the rear as when I drive in reverse, there is no clicking.
    I am not so sure that is a valid assumption. When I have had the clicking noise one of the hardest things is figuring out which end it is coming from, at least for me.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    I am not so sure that is a valid assumption. When I have had the clicking noise one of the hardest things is figuring out which end it is coming from, at least for me.
    I read that on the forum here about which diff it would be. Seems to make sense, At any rate, I can't spend 14 bucks over and over again stripping these things, so any ideas of what I should do? Ive changed the diff twice before, I have no idea what went wrong this time. I know they are stripping from my son doing back flips and I'm fine with that as it makes him happy, but diffs stripping after being replaced doing nothing but pulling the trigger I'm not okay with. I went the extra step this time and replaced the side seals and bulkhead and apparently just wasted money. The other two times I just swapped ring and pinion.

  21. #21
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    Have you checked all the bearings? I had the dreaded diff click once and could not figure it out for a long time, I lost track of how many times I tore it down. It turned out to be one of the bearings on the shaft that the pinion gear rides on was bad. The bearing looked out and spun fine but when I took it off the shaft it fell into pieces in my hands. Once the bearing was replaced the noise was gone.

    I have had to fix the diff click a few times and it has yet to be a defective or damaged ring and pinion. It has always been a bad bearing or the diff needed shimming or the cover screws were stripped out.
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 07-21-2013 at 08:35 PM.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    Have you checked all the bearings? I had the dreaded diff click once and could not figure it out for a long time, I lost track of how many times I tore it down. It turned out to be one of the bearings on the shaft that the pinion gear rides on was bad. The bearing looked out and spun fine but when I took it off the shaft it fell into bieces in my hands. Once the bearing was replaced the noise was gone.
    Well I had to take them off to change the pinion, but I didn't really look at the bearings so maybe that's a start.

  23. #23
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    I just got one of the hr bevel Diffs on ebay cheap. Do I really need 2? I assume they have stock ratio so I can use it with stock front diff?

  24. #24
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    That's one of the nice things about buying a complete bulk/diff set off Ebay, all new bearings as well as diff parts, and at decent prices!
    My tranny case is stock :D

  25. #25
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    I've heard the teeth are larger on the HR gears but the ratio was unchanged so it should work with the stock front, but I did not do the math to see for myself.
    My tranny case is stock :D

  26. #26
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    Whe n you talk about the HR ones, are the 4x4 rears the same from 2x to4x?

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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by buzzsaw 46 View Post
    That's one of the nice things about buying a complete bulk/diff set off Ebay, all new bearings as well as diff parts, and at decent prices!
    I tried to find those on Ebay, would you be kind of enough to point me to the correct search term?

  28. #28
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    My tranny case is stock :D

  29. #29
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    that looks good, but no mention of whether it includes the pinion. And seller doesn't take questions.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    that looks good, but no mention of whether it includes the pinion. And seller doesn't take questions.
    Go here and try them. http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/servlet/...-Summit/Detail
    I bought the front and rear diff. I had to go to Tower hobbies for the Associated shims. They are both great to deal with my Dollar hobby stuff was at my house in 3 days. The diffs do include the gears. I removed the existing rear diff and bulk head, shimmed the new diff in the new bulk head installed it and so far things are fine. Also on dollar hobbies site go to 1/16 scale e-revo and you can get a complete set of drive and center shafts, hubs, and pins that fit the Summit VXL. They are half what my LHS store wanted and they are 1/4 of the summits shafts.
    "Better Old and Devious than Young and Exuberant"

  31. #31
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    The only problem with dollar is front or rear differential assembly list front bulkhead in the description. I emailed them to confirm.

  32. #32
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    That Ebay deal I linked does include the pinion. I just got one from them last week.
    My tranny case is stock :D

  33. #33
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    Has anyone called Traxxas to complain... I have the same issue and it seems rediculous that I paid $400 for 5 hours of use before i had axle shaft and center shafts and diffs strip in medium use, no jumps
    Vinny in PA - Father in son totally dissapointed
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 07-23-2013 at 10:30 AM.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    The only problem with dollar is front or rear differential assembly list front bulkhead in the description. I emailed them to confirm.
    Dollar Said they will fix description as front and rear say front bulkhead included now. They confirmed rear is rear though.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    The only problem with dollar is front or rear differential assembly list front bulkhead in the description. I emailed them to confirm.
    I ordered and received both the front and rear diff and blukhead and they were clearly different. The rear blukhead fit perfect. Maybe a typo.
    "Better Old and Devious than Young and Exuberant"

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by vinman33 View Post
    Has anyone called Traxxas to complain... I have the same issue and it seems rediculous that I paid $400 for 5 hours of use before i had axle shaft and center shafts and diffs strip in medium use, no jumps
    Vinny in PA - Father in son totally dissapointed
    I did. They said not under warranty 1 day after purchase. They don't warrant drive train. Bought a new diff from Dollar hobbies and fixed myself. Ok for now but who knows. They did send me a new pinion gear and diff ring gear. I agree Traxxas needs to address the issue. Maybe they should shim the diffs, before assemble of the Summit.
    "Better Old and Devious than Young and Exuberant"

  37. #37
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    Shimming from the factory wont help. They just can't take abuse. When we first got it, we didn't strip it. Then I shimmed after the first one went after a month or two and the shimmed one stripped like 2 weeks later.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRICK57 View Post
    I did. They said not under warranty 1 day after purchase. They don't warrant drive train. Bought a new diff from Dollar hobbies and fixed myself. Ok for now but who knows. They did send me a new pinion gear and diff ring gear. I agree Traxxas needs to address the issue. Maybe they should shim the diffs, before assemble of the Summit.
    I'm sorry I find that very hard to believe, there has to be more to that story. Traxxas stands behind their products and are well known for it. They have sent me drive train parts free of charge when the vehicle was way out of warranty just because I could not find them in stock locally.

    Shimming from the factory wont help. They just can't take abuse. When we first got it, we didn't strip it. Then I shimmed after the first one went after a month or two and the shimmed one stripped like 2 weeks later.
    Can't really agree with this 100% either. Clearly the difs in these vehicles are sensative and need to be set up properly, too many people do report issues with them. That being said there are a LOT of people myself included who have bashed their 1/16th scale trucks pretty hard and do not have issues with the diffs.

    I realize there is a good amount of issues reported with the diffs but no where near as many reports of problems as there are vehicles in use without issue.
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 07-23-2013 at 12:34 PM.
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  39. #39
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    Sending some free parts is nice don't get me wrong, but fixing the issue is a better solution. Plus, you've been on here a long time, that probably helps your cause for getting free parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dadx2mj View Post
    I'm sorry I find that very hard to believe, there has to be more to that story. Traxxas stands behind their products and are well known for it. They have sent me drive train parts free of charge when the vehicle was way out of warranty just because I could not find them in stock locally.



    Can't really agree with this 100% either. Clearly the difs in these vehicles are sensative and need to be set up properly, too many people do report issues with them. That being said there are a LOT of people myself included who have bashed their 1/16th scale trucks pretty hard and do not have issues with the diffs.

    I realize there is a good amount of issues reported with the diffs but no where near as many reports of problems as there are vehicles in use without issue.
    I didn't have any issues with the diffs until my son decided to start doing backflips off the tree in front of the house after he saw the monster jam trucks do it. I can do it all day long and not break the diffs. I used to run it full throttle without breaking the diffs and they weren't shimmed. I really think the shimming is more of a placebo than anything else. Not keeping throttle on when the wheels can't move will save the diffs more than anything else. I have 25+ years experience with R/C cars, most people aren't going to have the skill to always be off the throttle when they crash, land from a jump etc. The car should take a certain amount of abuse.

    Metal ends on the diffs or at least stronger plastic would easily reduce a lot of the problems. Even if that was just an aftermarket part.

    Stronger more solid plastic housings would help too, maybe metal. They could be aftermarket accessories straight from traxxas.

  40. #40
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    Sending some free parts is nice don't get me wrong, but fixing the issue is a better solution. Plus, you've been on here a long time, that probably helps your cause for getting free parts.
    Your assumption is wrong, when they did this the tech support guy who sent me the parts had no clue who I was on the forum or was even a member. This was well before I was made a moderator

    I didn't have any issues with the diffs until my son decided to start doing backflips off the tree in front of the house after he saw the monster jam trucks do it. I can do it all day long and not break the diffs.
    Don't your own words pretty much point out the issue here? One of the 2wd Monster Jam trucks may be a much better suited truck for your son.
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