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Thread: Project maxx

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeson81798 View Post
    Awesome man! I am really enjoying following your build!
    Thanks Jakeson, I figured I would just cut to the chase on this one. And build it pretty much with all the best available parts.

  2. #82
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    Made a custom wheelie bar last night. I wanted something short and stout and not sticking way out. And I really didn't want to go drilling a bunch of holes in my nice new HCR TI skid. Something to just keep it from flipping over backwards. I got these little alum wheels on ebay. Banziabars wheelie bar from rcwheeliebars. 5.00 a pair.
    Drilled out the alum wheels to 7mm and fit a couple 3x7x3mm flanged bearings in them with a few little spacers so you can tighten them good and still have the wheels spin free.

    I used this bracket from an integy wheelie bar. Its pretty strong and hard and springy. And almost perfect for what I wanted.
    A little round chunk of really dense 1/4" thick rubber in between makes a nice little cushion.

    I took this simulated alum pc and plastic wheel that came with the integy bar and filed it. lol



    Funny thing was the integy bracket I ended up using was not the wheelie bar I thought I bought and was going to just use a couple parts off of and screw it to skid plate. I guess this is the newer style, same part number. The pic on ebay showed the older style completely different. At first when I got I was like ahh man they sent me the wrong one. But it ended up working out sweet. and I didn't have to fill my nice new HCR skid full of holes.
    Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 09-15-2013 at 09:17 AM.

  3. #83
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    Couple more things done. Made a servo link and some better body posts.
    For the servo link I used a couple dubro monster ball links. Shortened them and redrilled the holes as deep as I could to get about 3/8" of thread on each side.

    For the body posts I used the plastic/nylon post that came with the ue towers, some alum spacers, some orings and the rpm cross braces. I ground down the tops of the ue post holders about .020 for a little more of a flat for the oring to rest on. The rpm braces fit the post nice and tight and the recess on them fits the spacers.
    I like these much better. They have the aluminum look with the flex of the nylon post.
    And a couple pcs of rubber gas line to keep the skids from beating up the bumpers.


  4. #84
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    you do really nice work bro.. truck is looking amazing hopefully you have been having a lot of fun doing it so I can give you mine and you can build me a replica

  5. #85
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    I have done many builds of all types of Rc I am mainly into high end boats in price range 4k to 8k. The time and effort I have into them is just nuts. This is why I can honestly say I appreciate your build to the fulllest because I know what you got into it. Keep up the great work and thanks for the lesson.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisg81983 View Post
    I have done many builds of all types of Rc I am mainly into high end boats in price range 4k to 8k. The time and effort I have into them is just nuts. This is why I can honestly say I appreciate your build to the fulllest because I know what you got into it. Keep up the great work and thanks for the lesson.
    Thanks Chris, Always nice to hear that others can appreciate the time and effort and $ I put into these things.

  7. #87
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    Still waiting on some parts for this thing. So I figured I would throw another set of tires together for it. Ive had these laying around for a while now. Nitro gato 3.2 alum beadlock wheels and imex Dirt Dawg tires. This was a bit of a project all in itself. I had to widen out the groove in the wheels with a hand tool on my spin grnding head. then trim the bead on the tires to get them to go together, Gave them a quick polish to shine them up a bit. I also used some ofna molded foams #81101 that fit the wheels better. The stock ones that came with the dirt dawg tires were too big on the inside. They look pretty cool but there a little on the heavy side for my liking. 14.8 oz w/tire and 17mm hub. None the less they will be fun to try. The tires have a nice spot for 2 or 4 oring belts to keep them from ballooning.



    Got some little servo plates to give the servo a good solid flat mount to the chassis with out having to file all the web support out of the mounting tabs. Then when I went to mount the servo I noticed the hole in the servo arm was split out the side.
    After all my work modding it to fit. lol My monkey hands struck again. Must have tightened it too much. Oh well didn't like the flimsy plastic servo saver arms anyway. Think ill try one of those hr ones for now until the ue ones are back in stock.

    Swapped out the rpm body post cross supports for some gh alum ones to keep the alum look going.

    Well that's about it for now. This thing is taking me forever. lol Been real busy in my shop lately so ill be getting the propulsion system fot it soon. Ive pretty much decided on a new Tekin 1700kv RX8/Gen2 T8/Gen2 Truggy system. Geared properly and run it on 6s. That should make for a real beast.
    Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 10-12-2013 at 09:40 AM.

  8. #88
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    I am usually not a fan of aluminum chassis builds but your attention to detail and amazing skill set have turned this into a very unique build! I am looking forward to seeing more pictures, keep up the good work!

    P.S. The parts I bought from you have been working great!

  9. #89
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    Thanks Mate, Glad to hear those knuckles are working out good.

  10. #90
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    A good day at the post office. No bills, Just a pink slip telling me I had a couple packages. 1700kv gen2 truggy system and my alum. rx box that ive been hunting everywhere for.

  11. #91
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    The tekin systems just look so cool, and that rx box is sweet.
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  12. #92
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    thanks revo, Ya, I wasn't crazy about the new black and white colors on them as far as matching my build. But I just found that you can get a black case for the gen2 esc. Its on the way.

  13. #93
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    Got a couple ?,s on wiring this thing up.
    After playing around trying to decide what would be a good way to mount and wire the motor and esc. I think ive decided on this configuration. Motor kind of upside down and esc sideways. This way A B C line right up with three short even length wires and the batt leads swing up and out to the sides the same. What do you think? I like the idea of being able to unplug the motor and I was going to use some 5.5mm bullet conectors that they recomend but the 12 awg wire kinda swims around inside them.
    I see tekin uses smaller gauge wire than the castle for the motor leads? 12 awg instead of 10 awg like the mmm. Should I use the same 12 awg wire for the battery leads?
    I also modified the bottom plate from an hr mmm esc mount heat sink that I never used. so the esc can easily be removed. Only complaint I have with this tekin system so far is you might think for 300.00 they could give you a paper template of the three mounting holes on the bottom of the case. Maybe include a mounting plate would be nice.
    Also wasn't crazy about the white case, but I found you can buy a black rx8 gen2 case for 10.00 so of course I have one coming. (nice little marketing scheme) They could just sell them in black or white like a refridgerator. lol Maybe ill give the heatsink a little dusting of red paint while I have it apart. A Gen2 esc in disguise.

  14. #94
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    12 gauge wire is probably going to be fine provided it is of good quality. If the wire moves around inside the bullet plug just make sure you have good contact between the wire and one side of the plug. Think of it like soldering to a normal Traxxas connector or something, the entire wire does not contact the plug surface. The solder itself helps make the connection with all the strands in the wire provided it is properly tinned.

  15. #95
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    I'm jealous of that tekin system! One day I'll get one for one of my rigs. It would look pretty good if you had a 90 degree off of the esc board so the wires go straight to the tabs on the motor.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  16. #96
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    Thanks mate, I was thinking of just running them straight to the motor but this way gives you a little room for adjustment of the motor without kinda pulling on the wires and I can slide some shrink wrap over the top of the solder posts.
    I swapped out the white case for a black rx8 gen2 one last night. Was going to paint the heatsink red but decided that might not be such a good idea. I will say if you ever want to change the case on one of these things. Get yourself a good quality correct size Phillips screwdriver for the tiny little screws that hold it together. I just barely managed to get it back together w/out stripping the screw heads. The tekin cases are kinda cheap imo. I think im going to rubber mount the mounting plate I made to the chassis. and use double sided tape and the three mounting holes and screws to hold the esc to the mounting plate.

  17. #97
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    Fired up the soldering iron and wired up the motor and esc. I decided to ditch the alum. plate screwed to the bottom of the esc in favor of this top mount rx8 mount from ***** rc. Wasn't real crazy about it at first but after sanding and rounding all the edges it doesn't look to bad. And a few things I like. (1) It allowed me to sandwitch and rubber mount it with a spacer on the screws so I could tighten it down good and not take up all the cushion. (2) Hides all the solder joints. (3) Has a nice little place to mount the switch. I drilled a couple holes in it to run the battery leads up and out to the sides.



  18. #98
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    Looks great And can I ask how much it weighs with all that aluminium?
    Slugs are just naturally aspirated snails

  19. #99
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    Thanks joe, The way it sits with out batteries and tires it weighs 8 1/2 pounds. With (2) 3 cell hardcase batteries and 3.2 mashers and ti22 wheels it weighs 13 1/4 pounds. Add rx box and body and center bones to be complete and I would guess it will be right around 13 1/2 pounds. Not too bad considering all the alum.
    Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 10-31-2013 at 08:17 AM.

  20. #100
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    A little cleaner look for the batt leads.


  21. #101
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    Now the rx box. I couldn't make it easy and just mount it to the stock location. Oh no. Not me. lol I decided to break things up and mount it like this instead. Just looks better imo. I was almost able to use the exsisting servo mount hole on one side, but the the box was hanging over the edge of the chassis a tiny bit and of course I couldn't have that. So I drill and csink another hole in the box and used the other exsisting hole on one side and a hole through the block off plate on the other.
    Now it doesn't hang over the edge, I can get to the servo post screws and by placing the rx in the box so I can get to the screw that goes into the chassis and also being able to get to the two screws in the other side of the block off plate. The whole assembly can be removed with out having to peel and pry the rx out of the box. I like it.




  22. #102
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    Another stunning Maxx.Your builds have made me order an flm chassi for Christmas.Mine wont be no where near as trick tho as I cant afford the bulks and arms and things but I have rpm arms and towers here already and have rpm bulks on the way.All the rest I still need to buy as I don't have a Maxx but with ebay chop shops I should be able to keep the price down.I am thinking of putting my flux 2350 motor and esc in it as the flux realy fly's on 4s and I would imagine my maxx will be lighter than my flux.

  23. #103
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    Thanks martin, Glad to hear ive inspired you to build a flm chassis maxx. I would say its the best bang for your buck as far as chassis go. My advice is to do your homework and shop around for the best deal on the rest of the parts. Try to get as many of them as you can from the same place and save on the shipping. I hate it when Ive ordered some parts from somewhere and then see that they had a couple other things I needed too.

  24. #104
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    Ive been busy the last couple nights wiring up the rx box. I shortened the servo wire by about 6" for a better fit. The spiral wrap I had on the esc wire didn't last much longer than it did on the batt leads. lol I replaced it with some expandable wire cover stuff that fit into the box better. I did use the smaller 1/8" spiral wrap on the antenna wire though, it fit perfect on there and much easier to work with. I also managed to stuff a glitchbuster right inside the box.




    I ordered a little antenna mount that should allow me to run the wire in from the side instead of having it come out under the chassis.

  25. #105
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    A few little changes to the wiring. Got this little integy antenna mount. And I decided to use the monoblock.





    Had to make a couple extensions for the tower braces.
    The body was too short so I did this. lol Good enough to beat up.


    I Need one of those custom wing mounts for the ue tower. Anybody have one to sell??

  26. #106
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    how clean, very nice !

  27. #107
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    Thanks usman, Now I need a longer body though.

  28. #108
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    Looks stunning mate.My FLM chassi turned up today but I am putting it away until Christmas.I am going to go for the 3.2 mashers aswell with Maximizer Beadlocks.I cant decide if I should go for 0 offset or 1/2 offset tho

  29. #109
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    Thanks Martin, I would go for the 1/2" offset. Wider, more stable, less roll overs. IMO anyway. I like the smaller 3.2 mashers too. They also have some nice grooves in them for some orings to combat ballooning.

  30. #110
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    I have that exact setup martin
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  31. #111
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    Looks Killer, I don't think you will need a cap with an RX8 and a Hitec

  32. #112
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    Thanks maxx, Ya, Probably doesn't need the cap. I just figured I would see if it would fit in the box. Ill probably try it with out it first and see how it works.

  33. #113
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    That is one sick looking setup! Love the looks of all the aluminum

  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    that is one sick looking setup! Love the looks of all the aluminum
    thanks mate.

  35. #115
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    Wow, I am not even a Maxx fan but yours looks very good, I would have to agree on the longer body though! This thing looks like some sort of bomb removal machine! Kidding*
    PM for info.....

  36. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spartanator View Post
    Wow, I am not even a Maxx fan but yours looks very good, I would have to agree on the longer body though! This thing looks like some sort of bomb removal machine! Kidding*
    Thanks Spartan, Ya, The old short body didn't look too bad on the regular chassis. but with the extension its definetly a bit short and odd looking. Ill get a couple longer ones. Too bad. I kinda liked the paint job on this one though..

  37. #117
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    I couldn't resist robbing the top of the blower on my basher and sticking on a castle blower with a thicker more powerful YR fan fit inside. Probably just for looks as it isn't protected very well. But maybe a thicker stronger proline body might keep it from getting slammed.





  38. #118
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    looks a bit like http://www.rbinnovations.com/ICE_AMP...R_p/ia2000.htm , been thinking of getting one of these. tho this one is belt driven instead.

  39. #119
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    Yep, That's it. I just used the the top part of one of them from my other truck. My experience with the little belt driven blowers is the belts will hold up to 4s for about 10-12 runs before it starts to stretch and come off. They don't hold up to 6s at all. One run and belt is gone.

  40. #120
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    running 4s in my e-maxx atm was tired of shredding tires on 6s. but only 10-12 runs on 4s is still a bit of a disappointment when they want to charge you $5 for another belt.

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