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  1. #1
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    Suspension Droop adjustments.

    Well, I have my slayer pro for a while now. It was a revo, but since been converted and all the revo stuff sold off.

    It has a Vantage CF chassis, caliber tires, losi wheels, variable shocks pistons, the Ti-N shaft hard anodized shocks, Tekno sway bars, 12MM hexes aluminum skids, aluminum rockets, the list goes on.

    Anyway, these trucks roll like crazy. Especially when you get rid of the junk stock tires and wheels. This thing pulls wheelies no problem, accelerates and stops great, turning is a different story. Tried slaydens set-up, different sway bars, springs, from super stiff Revo, to the double purple and black. The ride height is only able to be low with the lower rate springs.

    Now, my buddy has a Losi Ten sct, and that things handles AWESOME. Far superior to the slayer. What I noticed, is his truck has adjustable settings for suspension droop. It helps keep the CG low, and the inside of the truck grounded when hauling through the turns. So, I took some fuel line and made some stops for the slayer to mimic s the limited travel and it helped huge in traction rolling. Yes, there is lest downward suspension travel, but this ins't a MT, I need it to stay on all four wheels on the track.

    I wish there was an easier way to limit droop. I'll be coming up with something that is adjustable without taking the shock apart.

    There have been other comments about braking and accelerating at the right times through the turns, it does help, but the Losi is faster, since you can just lay into it and turn.
    Slayer Pro,Nitro Rustler,Jato,Slash 2wd,Slash 4wd.

  2. #2
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    Variable rate springs do a good job on my Slayer. There soft at the top for the rough parts of the track and stiffer when compressed for cornering and keeping the chassis from hitting the ground to hard when landing.

  3. #3
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    I may try those also. The weather had been crap here for the past two weeks. So when it dries out, I'll do some more tuning and see what I can do.
    Slayer Pro,Nitro Rustler,Jato,Slash 2wd,Slash 4wd.

  4. #4
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    You must have also noticed the low center of gravity, overall, of the Losi, regardless of the droop setting. With it's flat chassis, and centralized engine location, it handles more like a little truggy. It is far more balanced and nimble.
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  5. #5
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    Oh yeah, you are right there. I improved the slayers handling some, but I think I can do it more.
    Slayer Pro,Nitro Rustler,Jato,Slash 2wd,Slash 4wd.

  6. #6
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    Have you tried the P3 rockers? It might help stiffen it up a bit.
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  7. #7
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    That is the thing, I am not entirely sure it needs to be stiffer. It seemed worse with the revo springs in it.
    Slayer Pro,Nitro Rustler,Jato,Slash 2wd,Slash 4wd.

  8. #8
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    More progressive is the word I should have used. The droop is less of an issue than the high COG.

    I am gonna go old school here, in saying that the Revo/Slayer is a money pit. The scenario you layed out is the reason. We spend all our time and money, trying to bring our trucks up to the reference level of the vehicles with the better chassis design. While we are doing that, the people with the other chassis are driving and having fun. They are only concerned about fine tuning, whereas we are just trying to get it to be a stable platform. It is no different than the Revo owners all going to the truggy class.

    Having moved to another class (1/8 scale buggy), my suggestion is drop the Slayer, and get the vehicle that offers the most rewarding experience. Simply think of how much money your buddy spent on his Losi, compared to how much time you have invested tinkering with your Slayer. I still own my Revo, but it has been a while since it has seen the track.
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  9. #9
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    I need to add to my post where I suggested using the P3 rockers, because I didn't explain why.

    When using the P3 rockers, you are supposed to also use the pushrod spacers (part #5133), to maintain the bump and droop travel. However, if you omit the spacers, it will limit the droop exactly like you are looking to do. At the same time, the rockers will be more progressive compared to running the P2 rockers. You can get away with using a softer spring. I have used this method with my Revo, and I really liked the way it handled.

    Have you tried adjusting the roll center, by moving the front a-arm pivot point to the lower position?
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  10. #10
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    I agree on the high COG. That is the main issue it appears. My buddy bought his brand new, then the "tuning" kit, he is into it for 500-600 buck with new body and wheels too. I have a bit less in mine, but it is close.

    I never thought about the P3 rockers. I could also make the rocker push rods adjustable, and mess around with that setup to limit droop. Never occurred to me, lol. Not sure how that would affect the progressive rate of the shock though, messing around with that shaft.

    I have not moved the front a-arm pivot to the lower hole. It has been in the upper hole the entire time I had it. The rear was at one time in the lower hole, then when I put the Tekno sway bars on, I put the rear back to the upper. I guess I could try it too.

    I appreciate the tips and tricks and the responses to my post. Most guys seem to bash these, and look for the most ground clearance etc, so it is hard to find some of the info I am looking for.
    Slayer Pro,Nitro Rustler,Jato,Slash 2wd,Slash 4wd.

  11. #11
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    I would definitely move the a-arm pivot to the lower holes, both front and rear. The factory setting for the rear is the lower hole. If you have been running it in the upper hole, you raised the COG by doing so.

    The P3 rockers are cheap, so there is no reason not to try, especially since less droop is what you are looking for. As I said, I used P3's on my Revo, without the pushrod spacers, for the same reason. You know the spacers go onto the pushrods you are using now, right? So, we are only talking about swapping the rockers. Mount the front rockers on one side first, then look at the difference in droop between the left and right. I think you will be surprised how much less droop there will be.

    Do you have the center diff in your tranny? Using it will allow you to carry more speed thru the turns too.
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  12. #12
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    I will get out there this weekend and move the upper a-arm pins down. I'll hit the LHS and see if they have the P3's, I doubt it though. May have to get those online. I will do one side to just to see. I understand the P3 rockers are more progressive, so it will stiffen the suspension up, but I have some weaker springs to try and compensate. I'll have to try it all out.

    No, I don't have the center diff/rear brake yet. They are on the must have list to get soon. Being able to adjust the front/rear brake bias is important. I just haven't raised the money for the stuff yet.
    Slayer Pro,Nitro Rustler,Jato,Slash 2wd,Slash 4wd.

  13. #13
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    I should add that I did this trick with the P3 rockers and no spacers, to my Revo, and the difference in droop may have been more dramatic in my case because of the length of the a-arms. But, again, it is worth trying.
    Believe 1/2 of what you see,and 0 of what you hear

  14. #14
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    Yeah, I figured that would be the case. I still need to get the P3 rockers to try, when I get them in the mail I will take some pics and update the thread.
    Slayer Pro,Nitro Rustler,Jato,Slash 2wd,Slash 4wd.

  15. #15
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    I hit my LHS today and got P3's installed them tonight but haven't been able to take it out to test. On the workbench I can say I think I lost just a tiny bit of ride height but it was a massive improvement in the rebound of my shocks. I have a set of uber stiff springs as well, but am not going to use them unless I need to go back to the p2 rockers.
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  16. #16
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    Driving update, it's better but still not where I want it to be, a bit of body roll and squat on throttle and I noticed when I went over a small dirt hill a couple times it looked like it might have been casing the jump with the rear. Looks like I need to get some more springs to try as I don't want to jump to my super firm ones. Still have the high speed traction roll in corners on dirt but on pavement it's not lifting the inside corner any more.
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  17. #17
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    It's not so much about what it looks like it's doing as how it's performing. If all four wheels are staying on the ground and you have the under and over steer under control and controlled landings, that's about all you could ask for.

  18. #18
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    Control of everything but jumps and landings and I think that's more driver error than anything else. lol
    If I had a cool sig it would go here.

  19. #19
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    I know what you mean, it took me years to be able to land on the wheels most every time.

  20. #20
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    Nice to hear someone else is trying it. I have yet to get the rockers, family, weather, my 1:1 car, have kept me busy!

    Keep us posted on how you make out.
    Slayer Pro,Nitro Rustler,Jato,Slash 2wd,Slash 4wd.

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