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  1. #1
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    I keep on breaking the rear wheel shafts.

    I'm recently breaking parts of the wheel drive system every run, it doesn’t takes more than 5 minutes of some bashing until soothing breaks.
    Not a while ago I switched to 1/8 bigblock wheels:



    The car was running perfect and now after some time it starts to fail every run.
    Up to now I replaced 1 shaft (both half's), 1 x Differential Output Yoke and 2 x Rear Stub Axles.
    It is the eras of the joint that breaks every time.

    Yesterday I broke another half shaft:




    I'm not sure its related to the fact the rotating mass is bigger, could it be that it's just getting (the shafts and joints etc.) old ?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    When ever I run bad lands I always have tekno axles,the stockers just wont take it.
    A lot of folks have good luck with heavy duty or 4x4 rear axles.
    If its always on the same side something else might be going on.
    I'm sure you have heard this a million times,but are you running your slipper on the tight side?
    This with Bad lands or any aggressive tread like your running will put a lot of stress on the dog bones.
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  3. #3
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    Grip + Power = Snapped plastic axles...Teknos are great Cheaper than MIP but both are good

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    When ever I run bad lands I always have tekno axles,the stockers just wont take it.
    A lot of folks have good luck with heavy duty or 4x4 rear axles.
    If its always on the same side something else might be going on.
    I'm sure you have heard this a million times,but are you running your slipper on the tight side?
    This with Bad lands or any aggressive tread like your running will put a lot of stress on the dog bones.
    Thank guys.

    Do you know if there are all metal shafts available ?
    Can you recommend a cheap store to buy these tekno, MIP or link to see how the heavy duty or 4x4 rear axles looks like?
    I haven't touch the clutch, ever, not even once since I got the car.

    BTW, I just finished 30 min of bashing, nothing broke, I'm pretty confidence that the shafts ears just got week due to the many runs by now.
    I'll keep an eye, if one of the new ones I've installed will snap again than its definitely dew to too aggressive drive and maybe I'll change gearing and ill check for sure the clutch.
    Thanks.

  5. #5
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    Tower Hobbies has great prices and service...

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXADLT&P=7

    Also Ebay has good deals

  6. #6

  7. #7
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    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    ^^^+++111^^^!!!.
    Especially for that price,that's darn near ten bucks less than normal,and imo the best all around axles your going to get for a 2wd or 4x4 slash.
    I just got done testing for the drag's tomorrow,and tho I dont like 3s in a slash,its kind of a no brainer for unlimited slash drags.
    Beat them into the ground for two packs and no signs of any fatigue what so ever.
    And these axles have been in use for over a year of off road Hardcore racing.
    IMO tekno axles are the best I have ever come across.

    The difference is the teknos capture pin wont come out,they have very durable over sized bearings,and you have + or - 1.5 and .05 degrees of toe.
    You cant go wrong with tekno.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 07-06-2013 at 11:58 AM.
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  9. #9
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    I'm tired of breaking rear axles / shafts…
    I thought its dew to the original ones getting tired and cracked from a year or so of abuse but after replacing complete set of both sides, another one just cracked yesterday .
    So, since a complete set of shaft is around 20$ and a metal set like that is 40$....I'm thinking to try it.
    I'm running my slash 2x4 with 17mm adapters and 1/8 bigblock wheels which has ton of traction and I manly run on soft dirt / sand with stock gearing.
    Anyone has experience with this shafts ? do they hold on or will it tear my gear ?
    Thanks.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudrunner View Post
    I'm tired of breaking rear axles / shafts…
    I thought its dew to the original ones getting tired and cracked from a year or so of abuse but after replacing complete set of both sides, another one just cracked yesterday .
    So, since a complete set of shaft is around 20$ and a metal set like that is 40$....I'm thinking to try it.
    I'm running my slash 2x4 with 17mm adapters and 1/8 bigblock wheels which has ton of traction and I manly run on soft dirt / sand with stock gearing.
    Anyone has experience with this shafts ? do they hold on or will it tear my gear ?
    Thanks.
    As stated above I have never seen any other axle as strong as tekno.
    I'm sure they will let go some day, however they have been putting up with a 2400kv castle on 4s for some time now,and still look just fine.
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  11. #11
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    Billy knows the Slash better than just about anyone on this site so I would heed his advice.. On another note, I run the same size tires but in street configuration, 3800 4 pole and only once snapped an axle.. That was after hitting a curb.. Not sure if something else is going on with your truck, but loosen the slipper a bit and see if you have better results. I did replace the output yoke with the steel one, but I do that on all my traxxas vehicles.. I tend to abuse my slash alot more than most would and it is one of the most durable trucks I own..

    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    As stated above I have never seen any other axle as strong as tekno.
    I'm sure they will let go some day, however they have been putting up with a 2400kv castle on 4s for some time now,and still look just fine.
    I have a friend that runs a 2200 on 4S.. its a blast to watch.. even better when he ran it on 6S.. one of the most scary things I've ever seen, until he hit head on into a curb at what we estimated to be around 70+... Not much to look at for the post mortem..
    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-27-2013 at 08:07 AM. Reason: merge
    Maxx3.3/ rusty5700/ slash3800/ slash5700 /4tec3.3

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cenracer1 View Post
    I run the same size tires but in street configuration, 3800 4 pole and only once snapped an axle.. That was after hitting a curb.. Not sure if something else is going on with your truck, but loosen the slipper a bit and see if you have better results.
    Thanks.
    I'm defiantly going for these Tekno shafts.
    I have also a set of slicks on road 1/8 wheels, it doesn’t happen there, only with the big blocks off-road and most of the time it's when I land from a jump of approximately 2.5 – 3ft (have upgraded longer travel shocks front and rear).

    As for the slipper , I've never touched it, not even once and I have the truck for a year now and I average run it twice a month .
    How should I adjust the slipper ? I don’t want to loose it too much so it will burn or something.
    Thanks.

  13. #13
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    what do you think of these compared to the Tekno ?

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudrunner View Post
    what do you think of these compared to the Tekno ?
    I run mip's in my pro open truck rather then the pro lines witch I have found to be worthless.
    The mip's are a decent axle set, but can not be compared to tekno.
    Not really sure if they harden the metal more but tekno has proven to be a superior product imo.
    To date I have found no other as durable, tho we never know what tomorrow will bring.
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  15. #15
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    If you bash more than race, get the MIP x-duty shafts. It is def because of more rotating mass and the big block grip well. You should loosen the sliper clutch a tad, and stay off the throttle when you land.

  16. #16
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    New to all this. The factory shafts are telescoping and the tekno are not. ????

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slashmaine View Post
    New to all this. The factory shafts are telescoping and the tekno are not. ????
    The tekno's achieve their telescoping effect in the output shaft yoke.
    Think of telescoping as compacting with the upper movement of the suspension.
    They are both in fact telescoping.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 08-28-2013 at 07:06 PM.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    The tekno's achieve their telescoping effect in the output shaft yoke.
    Think of telescoping as compacting with the upper movement of the suspension.
    They are both in fact telescoping.
    Sweet! Thank you.

  19. #19
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    I bought some Teknos yesterday Ill be posting a follow up soon.
    My wife hates it but I love It.

  20. #20
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    Eventualy got the Tekno.
    ill update later

  21. #21
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    Ok so I've installed the Tekno and found out they don’t fit the 17mm HEX adapters so I had to 1mm enlarge the adapters inner hole, now its ok.
    Eventually went for a 50% truck re-build…
    I renew the shocks, the dark liquid that was inside was nothing like, not even close to the original clear oil I've put there…
    Some screw replacing and overall tightening.
    However I notice that the rear end looks strange…
    Take a look @ the pic, the rear wheels look crooked, how can I make it straight ?


  22. #22
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    You can't change it. It's called toe-in. You actually can but you bash so leave this be because it will give you more grip.
    Go Traxxas, Team Associated, and Losi!

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    +1^^
    You wont be able to control it with out the rear toe.
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  24. #24
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    so its ok ? should be like that ?

  25. #25
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    i would run it that way see how it feels
    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudrunner View Post
    so its ok ? should be like that ?
    Absolutely, stock is 3 degrees of rear toe, some like more some a bit less.
    If all you run on is pavement you may take some out but not all.
    On dirt I've seen people run 4 degrees, thats what keeps the truck some what straight during hard acceleration, without it you'll be the king of donuts.
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  27. #27
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    Alright, back to driveshafts. So will the Tecknos fit rpm rear stub axle carriers? Obviously I would have to use my own bearings and not the ones that come with the teckno kit. So is it possible?
    Go Traxxas, Team Associated, and Losi!

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traxxasfreak61 View Post
    Alright, back to driveshafts. So will the Tecknos fit rpm rear stub axle carriers? Obviously I would have to use my own bearings and not the ones that come with the teckno kit. So is it possible?
    No, the tekno stub axle is a heavy duty 6mm shaft, the stock bearings are 5mm in the center.
    One of the biggest reasons tekno rocks.
    Just bought front and rears for my scalpel.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    No, the tekno stub axle is a heavy duty 6mm shaft, the stock bearings are 5mm in the center.
    One of the biggest reasons tekno rocks.
    Just bought front and rears for my scalpel.
    How durable are the tekno hubs? I put my car through a lot in a day. Like having noobs lying in the end of the straight and crashing at 40mph into their car. I never break anything Everybody says not to use RPM parts because they flex too much and you loose precision using them. I don't notice any of that. I will have to drive a losi and see if it is more precise. I don't think so. If one breaks, can you buy one at hobby people?
    Last edited by Traxxasfreak61; 10-06-2013 at 07:45 PM.
    Go Traxxas, Team Associated, and Losi!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traxxasfreak61 View Post
    Alright, back to driveshafts. So will the Tecknos fit rpm rear stub axle carriers? Obviously I would have to use my own bearings and not the ones that come with the teckno kit. So is it possible?

    As said above Technos use a 6mm axel so the stock bearings and carriers will not work nor your RPM ones as they are 5mm

    The tekno carriers and steering blocks are a similar plastic to RPM parts. They are unbreakable so they say and are warrantied for life. Also they add a ton of different mounting options. Plus they give you get two sets at different toe angles.


    But make sure to pick up some spare 6mm bearings for your new axles .. I shredded one in the first week when I picked up fishing line at the river and didn't notice till it was too late... none of the bearings from the original carriers or steering blocks will work with the new upgraded axle size
    Last edited by T4KT1KZ; 10-06-2013 at 08:00 PM.

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    How durable are the tekno hubs?
    Tekno imo make rpm look like junk, "IN MY OPINION", their beefy and if you can get them to bend more power to ya.
    I've been pounding the ones below for near two years and they show minimum wear.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    These carriers with their over sized bearings are imo some of the toughest around.
    [IMG][/IMG]
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by T4KT1KZ
    The tekno carriers and steering blocks are a similar plastic to RPM parts. They are unbreakable so they say and are warrantied for life.
    T4KT1KZ again I ask you to PLEASE be sure of your facts before you post this kind of statement. From the Tekno FAQ page HERE under the "What Products are Covered Under Warranty' link it says...

    Plastic parts are not covered. Other parts are not covered unless specifically noted.
    Being that the carriers are plastic they are not covered any warranty much less a life time warranty
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 10-06-2013 at 08:31 PM.
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  33. #33
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    Ohhhhhh, you just don't know how many bearings I go through just from getting stuck on a pipe and my tires ballooning to heaven! So I can't imagine the 6 mils breaking. At least it uses a huge bearing on the inside.
    Go Traxxas, Team Associated, and Losi!

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traxxasfreak61 View Post
    Ohhhhhh, you just don't know how many bearings I go through just from getting stuck on a pipe and my tires ballooning to heaven! So I can't imagine the 6 mils breaking. At least it uses a huge bearing on the inside.
    Since I had mine I've replaced believe it or not, one inner and outer bearing running a cc 3800kv geared 18/56 every weekend.
    Now my luck may be better then others but regardless in my pro open truck running a castle 2400kv 550 and traxxas aluminum carriers I change the rear bearings every weekend.
    Some of this may be due to 35/69 gears being pushed by 5s power.
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  35. #35
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    The tekno carriers and steering blocks
    Plus they give you get two sets at different toe angles.

    Ahhhh now I understand way there are 2 sets of carriers….
    I should check to see what I've installed as I think I've mixed it, I think ive installed one of each type.

    stock is 3 degrees of rear toe, some like more some a bit less.
    On dirt I've seen people run 4 degrees, thats what keeps the truck some what straight during hard acceleration, without it you'll be the king of donuts.
    So, the bigger the angle, the better the traction / going straight on hard acceleration ?

    If yes, my bee I should go with the bigger angle carriers….

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    So, the bigger the angle, the better the traction / going straight on hard acceleration ?

    If yes, my bee I should go with the bigger angle carriers….
    To a point, anything can be over done.
    We had a fella running 4.5 in the rear stating how great it was, then with out word went back to 3.5 degrees, something must not have been so great.
    It pays to do your own research, a lot of people(poster included) like to think what they have or do is the best, you see this a lot.
    I try my best, tho not always successfully to give a experienced opinion rather then personal untested theory, my buoyant position with teknos is 3.5 degrees, this works for me, your driving technique my require a different setting.
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