Results 1 to 31 of 31
  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20

    1st time Electric User, and First time E-Revo user!

    Hey guys,
    I have just ordered a new E-Revo from Traxxas. I know the small battery is not enough for my needs. I am not really into high speed runs or bashing. I am just interested a few small jumps here and there, and some abuse on the acceleration and brakes at times. Can anyone suggest some upgrades I can do to get long run times for somewhere around $100-$150? - I hear liPo is the way to go, so maybe some links with the highest mah that can fit in the e-revo and some good chargers?

    Thanks,
    Ray

  2. #2
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    20
    2x2s lipos run in parallel should be fine.. Power and runtime!
    Fast car with a fast car = WIN

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Alma, Michigan
    Posts
    12,290
    In my opinion a "good" charger cannot be had for your price limits and still have $$ left over for upgrades...

    But, you can probably get along fine with an EZPeak plus or a simple balance only charger... the only two that Traxxas sells for LiPo:
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=9821
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=5395

    For the LiPo... SPC 2500mAh 2S:
    http://www.specpointbatteries.com/in...?productID=107


    This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke.

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I have HR but recommend GPM or GH)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    Thanks bro, any recommendations?
    Quote Originally Posted by VandalVXL View Post
    2x2s lipos run in parallel should be fine.. Power and runtime!

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    Thanks bro I appreciate you taking the time out to give me some guidance.
    Will the SPC 2500mAh 2S fit in without any modifications?

    As for Shimmed From and Rear Bulkheads, I have no idea what these are or where they are, I have not got the ERevo yet. Its in the process of being delivered. Maybe when I get it i will have a better idea of what you are talking about.

    Thanks Again bro.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    In my opinion a "good" charger cannot be had for your price limits and still have $$ left over for upgrades...

    But, you can probably get along fine with an EZPeak plus or a simple balance only charger... the only two that Traxxas sells for LiPo:
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=9821
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=5395

    For the LiPo... SPC 2500mAh 2S:
    http://www.specpointbatteries.com/in...?productID=107


    This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke.

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I have HR but recommend GPM or GH)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Alma, Michigan
    Posts
    12,290
    Wire openings may need to be enlarged... but that seems to be a person preference thing; some do it while some do not.

    Bulkheads are what house the front and rear differential... follow the link in my above post for pictures.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Yakima, Washington
    Posts
    1,422
    I would trim the wire openings like Jimmie said cause other wise the battery doors will eventually fall off.
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  8. #8
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    got yah, thanks bro.

    Quote Originally Posted by revoman78 View Post
    I would trim the wire openings like Jimmie said cause other wise the battery doors will eventually fall off.

  9. #9
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    85
    I trimmed the front of my doors vs the rear as I think it make for a cleaner running of the wires when running in parallel

  10. #10
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    Hey Parallel is for run time right? Also for now I am looking at getting the longest runtime i can get without modifying anything. Eventually i will want too, but since its brand new i want to enjoy it a little without breaking it (yes i break things )
    Quote Originally Posted by RZSmerv View Post
    I trimmed the front of my doors vs the rear as I think it make for a cleaner running of the wires when running in parallel

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Alma, Michigan
    Posts
    12,290
    Parallel = run time
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  12. #12
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    39
    just get some rpm arms, and upgrade that servo, for jumps you might want the big bore shocks, the stocks are crap. THats the most important, and get your slipper right, otherwise it eats diffs. There are whole lists of upgrades, just get one and get some upgrades, also axle carriers are a bit to weak for some good jumps.

    Every one breaks things, crashed into a tree at 40mph while it was flying trough air. Not good for a rc car, happy me only broke a front shock tower. .
    Last edited by Jadoei13; 06-29-2013 at 03:25 PM.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Alma, Michigan
    Posts
    12,290
    The only folks that made big bores for this platform do not any more... I used modified Yeah Racing shocks for my big bores though.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast, Australia
    Posts
    392
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    The only folks that made big bores for this platform do not any more... I used modified Yeah Racing shocks for my big bores though.
    They're working great. Running Gold springs with 80 weight

  15. #15
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    39
    Just take the traxxas ones number trx 7061x. They might be a bit expensive but they are worth it! All the leaking and problems of the old stock ones are history now. Only had to fill them once in about 10H of run time. Thats like 20 3S lipos...... running trough dirt, short grass, and of course some onroad but thats nothing special for shocks. And of course, I jumped quit a lot. So big improvement there!

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Alma, Michigan
    Posts
    12,290
    The Traxxas ones still have a snap on cap... people running heavier weights pop that cap right off.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...w+installation
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  17. #17
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    Thanks all... I am still waiting for this shipment, dont even know what happened to it. ={
    excitement is killing me

    Cant wait to get a hold of it!

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    277
    I saw mentioned elsewhere that the HR alum shock bodies work well, IF you sandwich the O-rings from top to bottom not as Hot Racing recommends.

    Not sure if I can link to another forum so will just sumup the thread

    Blue traxxas Oring the HR spacer, blue traxxas Oring then the HR black Oring on the bottom. the blue traxxas orings come out of the stock shocks.

    Basically three Orings instead of two applies more pressure and the softwer traxxas ORings get compressed a litlle more to stiffen them up from what I understand )

    Said has not leaked oil since

    Sounds worthy to me even if only for the time saved cleaning your shocks lol

  19. #19
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    2
    Okay new electric RC user here. This is my sons second car. This Revo brushless he has been tearing the crud out of the stock tires. Can anyone please provide some good suggestions for a good offroad tire. He does operate it on the street also but primarily offroad jumping etc...Thanks. Should have started a new thread probably...or not?

  20. #20
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    228
    Proline dirt hawgz for example.
    I like the goose bumps for dusty grounds, but they get worn very fast on pavement.
    I also use the summit wheels, but therefore the gearing Has to be changed.

    Gesendet von meinem GT-I9300 mit Tapatalk 2

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    277
    Never understood why people buy a traxxas vehicle and then drive on pavement.

    And then complain traxxas aint durable

    90% of the things I have broken were on pavement.

    then again.. the dirt track in my yard is as hard as concrete.... i guess i understand why an hour of 20+ foot jumps broke things

  22. #22
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    Hey Jimmie,
    I finally received my merv and upgraded the oil in the shocks, and used the batteries you suggested. I also bought this charger http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=9821 , just a quick question, will it be able to charge the 2500 packs completely, on the specs sheet it says its ideal for up to 2200. Let me know.

    Thanks in Advance bro!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    In my opinion a "good" charger cannot be had for your price limits and still have $$ left over for upgrades...

    But, you can probably get along fine with an EZPeak plus or a simple balance only charger... the only two that Traxxas sells for LiPo:
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=9821
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=5395

    For the LiPo... SPC 2500mAh 2S:
    http://www.specpointbatteries.com/in...?productID=107


    This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke.

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I have HR but recommend GPM or GH)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    277
    It will charge them fine. it outputs .8Ah so will just take longer A little over 3 hours + balancing time.

    A $50 balancing charger can knock that down to 70 minutes

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast, Australia
    Posts
    392
    Quote Originally Posted by igglesfan View Post
    It will charge them fine. it outputs .8Ah so will just take longer A little over 3 hours + balancing time.

    A $50 balancing charger can knock that down to 70 minutes
    +1 with that....the one you've bought will take for ever to charge

  25. #25
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    how do i know when its done charging? It shows to red dots (2 cell) and one green one (3 cell) when i plug the packs in, how do i know its progress?

  26. #26
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    Figured out how its done, just connect until all leds are green (about6-8 hours for a complete charge)
    mad fun though

  27. #27
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    How much can I get for this eRevo vxl, with the 2 2500 mah batteries? (Thinking about getting a full size erevo)

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Alma, Michigan
    Posts
    12,290
    $250-$300 at best.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  29. #29
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Spring valley mn
    Posts
    1,135
    Wow, that didn't take long.
    My tranny case is stock :D

  30. #30
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by buzzsaw 46 View Post
    Wow, that didn't take long.
    LOL, don't judge me -____-
    feel like the bigger one would be a step in the right direction.

  31. #31
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
    $250-$300 at best.
    Thanks for the continued support.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •