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Thread: Diff problems.

  1. #1
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    Diff problems.

    I have a 3903 brushless upgrade with the mm2 running 2s lipos. About every week I am breaking one of the two bearings in the rear diff. What is causing this to happen. It has gotten to he pont that I carry 2 extra diffs so when I'm in the field and it breaks I can replace them. Please post your advice on y this is happening .

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Are you running in dirt/sand? If so, the dirt might be getting into the bearing making them go bad really quick.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  3. #3
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    Lately 60/20/20 (sand/dirt/gravel)

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Lately 60/20/20 (sand/dirt/gravel)
    Hmmm, my bet is all that sand driving is what killed that bearing. Do you have a picture of the bad bearings?
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  5. #5
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    Not much to take a picture of . All that's usually left is he outside and inside rings

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  7. #7
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    If your breaking bearings every week, there is something not fitting correctly/ seals missing, or it's been sprayed with wd40.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  8. #8
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    Ok what do u recommend using to grease the bearings

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    I just use lithium bearing grease from the local cycle shop, Left overs from when i do the bike's bearings.
    The original WD40 is a grease eater and not a lubricant. If you use this then you'll need to clean up the insides and use a grease afterwards.
    Although WD40 is a brand name there is many products under their belt, some lubricants, greases, rust eaters, de-greasers and more.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  10. #10
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    I forgot to add, the cycle bearing lithium grease is a lot more viscious, than what automotive lithium grease is.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    I use either marine grease if I run in wet places, or for dry/on road use I use 3 in 1 oil.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  12. #12
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    Is it not a bit time consuming changing bearings to run depending on if it's wet or dry conditions.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Is it not a bit time consuming changing bearings to run depending on if it's wet or dry conditions.
    Ha ha ya, but that's not what I do... What I should have said is I use marine grease in the winter so I can drive in snow, and then I use 3 in 1 oil in the summer when I don't get my cars wet.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  14. #14
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    After i posted i figured that's what you do, In England we'll be swapping every day.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  15. #15
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    Is the problem resolved now gunamonkey.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  16. #16
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    If you want to spend more time playing and less time replacing diffs get some 1/8th scale diffs. and get rid of the problem. The little 6x12 bearings don't hold up very good imo.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by trax de max View Post
    I just use lithium bearing grease from the local cycle shop, Left overs from when i do the bike's bearings.
    The original WD40 is a grease eater and not a lubricant. If you use this then you'll need to clean up the insides and use a grease afterwards.
    Although WD40 is a brand name there is many products under their belt, some lubricants, greases, rust eaters, de-greasers and more.
    Will the lithium grease work in the tranny as well?

  18. #18
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    I don't put none in there. I just let that run as it is.
    I only grease the bearings and replace diff/shock fluids if it starts to not look right while driving.
    some greases eat plastic and makes it soft and moveable.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  19. #19
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    Haven't broke a bearing since but I did destroy a diff last weekend. Wen I opened up the diff the drive gear was cracked,diff cup stripped, and all the Spyder gears destroyed. I was only running 4s. Luckily I had a raplacement diff to through in.

    -EMAXXBRUSHLESS
    Where can I find a 1/8 scale diff to fit in the stock bulkheads. Or a diff bulkhead set, that replaces all of that

  20. #20
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    It may of been weakened buy the bearing damage from previous runs, Hopefully when this is fixed it should last a lot longer. You can get metal diff carriers from flm I think.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  21. #21
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    Not from the bearing damage because i completely replaced the diff after the bearings because I didn't want to have to deal with damage from breaking a bearing.

  22. #22
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    Do you shim the diffs
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunamonkey View Post
    Haven't broke a bearing since but I did destroy a diff last weekend. Wen I opened up the diff the drive gear was cracked,diff cup stripped, and all the Spyder gears destroyed. I was only running 4s. Luckily I had a raplacement diff to through in.

    -EMAXXBRUSHLESS
    Where can I find a 1/8 scale diff to fit in the stock bulkheads. Or a diff bulkhead set, that replaces all of that
    http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM17750&cat=15

    http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...LM18750&cat=15

    I have been using the FLM Hybrids for years in both my BB T and Brushless E. Good stuff, haven't had a diff issue since.
    My tranny case is stock :D

  24. #24
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    No I don't shim the diffs

  25. #25
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    I think alot of people have put shims in the diffs and that helped them out. There is a decent write up about it on here somewhere.
    Problems.The manual's good starting point. Simple

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