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  1. #1
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    prevent stripping wheels

    Does anyone know of a good way to prevent stripping the wheels. I have new mashers on desperados with the steel mip hexes. Dont want to strip these. I stripped out the stock talons. I do use blue loctite on the lock nuts when I put the wheels on, I noticed that the hexes rotate in the wheel hex a little bit. Any way to help prevent this with the mip x duties all the way around.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Are they the older pin type or the metal hex ones dude....peace
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Are they the older pin type or the metal hex ones dude....peace
    They are the newer metal ones with the grub screw.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I don't know of a fix for the new ones but with my pinned ones I can epoxy aluminium hexs into the wheels and I have not stripped a wheel in monthsBut you could look into going to 17mm hex......peace
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  5. #5
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    12mm hexes will strip at some point for most people. Not much you can do about it other that going to 17mm.

  6. #6
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    you can glue the hex into the wheel.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulfromtulsa View Post
    you can glue the hex into the wheel.
    This doesn't work on newer versions of MIP x-duty CVD's because the nut needs a grub screw. So, as the chaps have said, convert to 17mm wheels and hexes or just loctite your wheel nuts down and hope for the best.

  8. #8
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    The grub screw on the new MIP hexes is just there to keep it from coming off when you take the wheel off. The inside of the hex is keyed with the axle, which is what keeps it from spinning free. You could still glue the new mip hexes in and not use a grub screw.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Awesome idea dude and that will help a lot from stripping hexes dude ......peace
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jws1982 View Post
    The grub screw on the new MIP hexes is just there to keep it from coming off when you take the wheel off. The inside of the hex is keyed with the axle, which is what keeps it from spinning free. You could still glue the new mip hexes in and not use a grub screw.
    yup i have glued my mip key hex the only thing is that it will suck when i need to get the hex out

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    You will able to get it out with a big flat head screwdriver dude .....peace
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  12. #12
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    I thought that gluing them in without the grub screw might work, but wanted to test the waters to see if anyone had tried this method. Big thanks to all with the help!

  13. #13
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    The hard part about glueing them in can be making sure the hex is sitting level inside the wheel. If you glue it in even at a slight angle, it will not mount on the truck properly.

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Or it will wobble real bad and wreck your bearings.......peace
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jws1982 View Post
    The grub screw on the new MIP hexes is just there to keep it from coming off when you take the wheel off. The inside of the hex is keyed with the axle, which is what keeps it from spinning free. You could still glue the new mip hexes in and not use a grub screw.
    So what is a good glue to use, super glue?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doubleu View Post
    So what is a good glue to use, super glue?
    Epoxy works well.

  17. #17
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    I had this same problem with the new MIP axles/hexes. I did end up super-gluing the new MIP hexes in the wheels, and it worked for a while, but eventually they became unglued and stripped (I was running running 3s aggressive. Superglue might be adequate for 2s). I decided to clean inner hex in the wheel really well by sanding it with a dremel (they were completely round at this point) and then I used J-B Weld to re-create the hex shape in the wheel. I put a few layers of plastic wrap around the hex, filled the wheel with J-B Weld, and pushed the hex in, displacing the epoxy. After it dried, I was able to easily pull out the hex because it was covered in plastic wrap and that did the trick until I got 17mm hexes. Some tips:

    • Clean the inside of the wheel hex well and rough it up a bit so the J-B Weld has something to grab on to
    • Leave some extra plastic wrap hanging out so that you can pull the hex out
    • Cover the whole area in J-B Weld for strength
    • Make sure you let it sit to dry for more than the recommended time to be sure it is strong
    • Make sure that the hex is flat with the wheel like other people said otherwise your wheels will be terribly wobbly.
    • Loosen your slipper clutch just a tad so you are less likely to have this issue again

    Here is a pic:
    Last edited by ivyitches; 06-18-2013 at 09:46 PM. Reason: clarification

  18. #18
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    Here is a very creative way of preventing the stripping of your hexes.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...timate-Hex-Mod

  19. #19
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    17mm MIPS ore the only real way to go. Kind of a pain but well worth it.
    Stampede 4x4 vxl w/ MMP/2400kv, Mini E-Revo

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Will go down the 17mm route when I get a 1/8th scale tenshock motor next year so I can run 3s and 4s.......peace
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