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  1. #1
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    let the fun begin!

    Well finally got my spartan last night. I got it used with a seaking 180amp esc and CC 2200kv already installed, and best part is it hasn't even seen water yet. So last night I git my dual outlet manifold installed and my kinect rudder mounted up. Still need to make another hole for another water line and do alittle trimming on the inside to have room for the washers to sit flat. Heres a couple pics. Ill get more up this weekend. Thanks for looking.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #2
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    Nice! Clean looking spartan.

    That's the cleanest mounting I've seen with that rudder. Two thumbs way up!!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-07-2013 at 07:00 PM. Reason: merge
    Watch this....

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yipscidleedoo View Post
    That's the cleanest mounting I've seen with that rudder. Two thumbs way up!!
    Thanks man....I just have to shave/sand alittle down where the one water line goes thro to be able to use it still. I'm hoping That I get back to it and get it all plumbed up this weekend.

    Is there a good foam seal to put on the boat for the lid to help keep water out? My lhs has some pro boat tape up there. Just seems like it'd be a pain to untape and tape up all the time, but seems like would be the best solution..

  4. #4
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    Just a friendly caution, watch your temps with that set up if you plan to run 6s. I run the same setup in one Spartan, 180 esc and CC1515 2200kv, but only run 4 and 5s because I found temps indicated it was pushing the limits of esc on 6s.

    Hog
    Last edited by hog; 06-07-2013 at 07:09 PM.

  5. #5
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    I use black electrical tape as hatch tape, it seems to work very well and follows the radius quite well. As for the foam, I hot glued three torpedo style fishing bobbers to the inside of the hatch just in case.

    http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Co...tml?sort=3&o=0
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-08-2013 at 06:59 PM. Reason: merge
    Watch this....

  6. #6
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    Now that's what I'm talking about......

    Nice motor Yipscidleedoo



    I use blue elect tape on blue boat and red on red boat...
    Last edited by orca44; 06-07-2013 at 08:25 PM.
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  7. #7
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    Well was thinking of doing 6s but now prob gonna just do 5s now. Really would like my electronics to last. Lol hopefully I'll get some batteries on order next week. Cant wait to get it out on the water!

    Now that's awesome! Reminds me of the conley precision 609 stinger which is conservatively priced at 6 grand for the blown version. Lol def be a blast to drive!
    Last edited by BomberSTi; 06-07-2013 at 08:28 PM.

  8. #8
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    Lol orca44, I haven't figured out how to post my images yet. I'm new to the forum thing
    Watch this....

  9. #9
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    Like hog stated, 6s might be a bit much with a 2200 kv motor.. Unless you just want to do some all out speed runs.

    Stay safe and enjoy our new toy.....
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  10. #10
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    Yea think I'm just going to go 5s and wait will I get the leopard 4082 1600kv motor

  11. #11
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    The 1600 kv Leopard seems to be a popular aftermarket choice....

    I have the Seaking 180 amp ESC but have not decided which motor to use yet.

    I'm thinking of a red bull theme for the hull.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-09-2013 at 07:17 PM. Reason: merge
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  12. #12
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    Yea I've been checking them out, and they are pretty decently priced. And also I had plans to pull the 2200kv and use it in my E-slayer build.

    So been seeing some people have had their top deck break loose. Is there any way to reienforce it to help prevent that?

    Tonight I plan on finishing up the plumbing and do a water test to make sure I have no leaks inside. Also I have some extra dean connectors laying around will I be ok with these?


    Red bull theme would be pretty sweet! This winter I'm going to disassemble the boat and give it a friend so he can airbrush it for me. Havent decided on a theme yet.
    Last edited by BomberSTi; 06-09-2013 at 12:22 PM. Reason: human error

  13. #13
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    Deans connectors are great connectors, but unfortunately don't have the required amp rating needed for the Spartan.

    Stay with the Traxxas connectors, or go to EC5, or bullet connectors 5mm or larger.

    hog

  14. #14
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    Well looks like a I have a decision to make and see what I want to switch all my connectors too..lol. Wasn't really wanting to, but kinda had a feeling I was going to.

    Prob go with the EC5 or some bullet connectors.

  15. #15
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    Ok so I got some EC5 connectors on hold for me at my lhs.

    But had a question, I was going to sharpen the leading edge of the turning knifes (I know terminology is wrong). What kind of methods, and what do you guys use to sharpen yours?

  16. #16
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    I use a fine file to put an edge on the "turn fin" then use a flat sharping stone to clean it up.... Don't need to shave with it, LOL but sharp.

    If you don't have a stone you can lay a sheet of fine/ultra fine sand paper on your bench and clean up the fin that way.
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  17. #17
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    I bought the same rudder setup and installed it on my boat last night
    Did you have trouble line the rudder up straight for steering

  18. #18
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    I placed by boat in the stand and laid a level across the back to make sure the boat was level. Than I held the mount up and made. My first mark and drilled the first hole so I could loosely mount the bracket and than laid the level across that to make my second mark. Once I had the first two in it was eas for last two holes. After drilling last two holes I applied some silcone and mounted the bracket. Still need to figure a way out to make sure the rubber boot doesn't pop out. Prob apply small amout grease to steering shaft to it slide thro the boot.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BomberSTi View Post
    Ok so I got some EC5 connectors on hold for me at my lhs.

    But had a question, I was going to sharpen the leading edge of the turning knifes (I know terminology is wrong). What kind of methods, and what do you guys use to sharpen yours?
    I use a 1" belt sander, and finish with micron belts for a polished finish.
    This is of of course only practical if you have access to a belt sander.
    hog

  20. #20
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    Yea I actually do, I'm a mechanic by trade. So I got a decent size shop at home filled with tools. But actually think I'm going to try my trusty ole' dremel with a stone attachment or something have a hole case of bits for it.

    Made some progress last night untill I sat in my lazy boy out in the shop...lol. I am going to change around my ESC didn't like how the hoses stuck out to the side into the battery tray areas. So today had to pick up some automotive molding tape to remount it.

  21. #21
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    Hi, I'm a newbie here and was following the post.... I thought I might just mention that from the steer boots I've used on RC boats , they should not need greese to slide, the boot should move with the rod ?????

  22. #22
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    You are correct..... The boot should move with the servo rod. That's the way I have mine set up to work.
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  23. #23
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    The only reason I mentioned something bout greasing the steering rod to help the boot to slide. Is because I didn't have the boot fully seated in it's groove and was late and overlooked that. Going to try pinch the little flange between the rudder base and boat, or may have to sand out some of the hole on the base to fit better.

  24. #24
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    I had already cut mine when I saw your set up, needless to say I ordered a second rudder and am awaiting your end result before I drill
    Watch this....

  25. #25
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    Think I'm going to pick up an extra boot to see how it'd look cut down and possible glued to the rudder. I'd feel safe doing this as I was applying clear silicone to the base of the rudder mount. Or may try removing some material of the base to make a groove for the little flange on the rubber boot.
    Also woke up to this kinda gave me motivation to hurry up with my spartan. Don't think you could ask for much better!
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Last edited by BomberSTi; 06-23-2013 at 10:54 AM.

  26. #26
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    Looks to be a real nice pond to play on.....Got glass?
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  27. #27
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    Picked up my order from kintec. I got a cnc x442 and also a 442 black cut. Thought the difference was just that the black cut just needed sharpened and balanced, but appreantly its more than that. Lol. Its def shorter in length and blades are smaller in surface area. Any info on the black cut I'd appreciate it. Also got some extra shear bolts for the rudder and some hatch seal foam. Heres a couple pics of the props.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

  28. #28
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    It's referred to as a back cut prop, not Black cut....LOL

    Back cutting is where they remove material from the prop that loads the motor and I believe it reduces the speed of the boat.

    I have a back cut prop (was a X442) that was given to me and it does not perform as well in my high rpm Spartan.

    But the back cut prop will be smaller.....

    For more info try a search on line or maybe somebody on the forum can be more specific.....
    Last edited by orca44; 06-26-2013 at 11:54 PM.
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  29. #29
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    Back cut huh? lol Yea I didn't go back to kintec's site was just off memory. Well that definitely makes sense than, atleast I'll be able to try my hand at sharpening and balancing with that prop. But hey learn something new everyday. lol.

  30. #30
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    I think you may like servicing your own props. It takes some time, but it's part of the hobby.

    I service all of my own props. I did buy one already serviced from Funrcboats just to see the difference. Mine have a sharper blade.......

    They say to leave a mat finish on the prop....But I do like it when it shines like chrome....
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  31. #31
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    Yea I can see myself liking it to, that's part of the fun with the hobby.

    The one video I watched I'm pretty sure he polished his props. But than again I'm the one with black cut props. lol
    I mean you think a polished finished would be better, but I have been proven wrong before....

  32. #32
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    Most SAW racers do not polish a prop, they leave it with a mat finish. The reason is that the water releases better on a mat finished prop.

    To me ..... I like a polished to a mirror finish.....

    But I do have several of each (mat and polished) in my prop box.
    "enjoy your ride"

    Dennis

  33. #33
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    Well it's fianlly going to be time for some fun. I finally got around to ordering batteries (were out of stock). Ordered 2x2s 6500mah 65c and 2x3s 6500mah 65c from SPC. Than also will be picking up an extra set of trim tabs and my adjusters wed and the rest of my EC-5 connectors will be in wed or thursday. Def can't wait to get out there and test her out!

    Also is OSE only company to offer a splash gaurd? besides having the option of making my own. Been trying to find one and all are sold out.

  34. #34
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    Did you try e-bay?
    hog

  35. #35
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    Yea I also tried e-bay with no luck....

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by BomberSTi View Post
    Well finally got my spartan last night. I got it used with a seaking 180amp esc and CC 2200kv already installed, and best part is it hasn't even seen water yet. So last night I git my dual outlet manifold installed and my kinect rudder mounted up. Still need to make another hole for another water line and do alittle trimming on the inside to have room for the washers to sit flat. Heres a couple pics. Ill get more up this weekend. Thanks for looking.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Did you ever fill the old hole where the cooling line used to run. If so what did you use and how does it work?
    Can you post some more pics ..one of the back of the boat on the inside where the bolts are for the rudder, and another of the back of the dual water outlet.
    Thanks!!!!!

  37. #37
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    Yea I can post some more, won't be able to till later today after work...

    And I didn't fill in the original cooling line hole either. I re-used it and remove alittle bit of material from the rudder base, to give the line alittle more room...

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