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  1. #1
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    Cool XO-1 slipper mod!

    I have just kicked the door wide open for XO-1 gearing options!!! This is a modified slipper clutch that works awesome! Check out the pics.


    Jeremy

  2. #2
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    I'd mill the pinion down so that the teeth have 100% contact on the spur......

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. danielhr77's Avatar
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    Or just, flip it...
    He who dies with the most toys wins !!!

  4. #4
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    I meant to add that in my first post. Getting the gears lined up is in the works. I believe with the stock motor, all I'll have to do is flip the pinion around like danielhr77 said.
    Jeremy

  5. #5
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    Updated pics with 1:1 gear ratio (36/36).




    Notice how much clearance there is now between the pinion and the shock!
    Jeremy

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    That's really cool! Now, you just need to get rid of the stock slipper clutch pads...
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  7. #7
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    I've used aluminum pads before. Only advantage I noticed was they don't break apart like the stock ones can.
    Jeremy

  8. #8
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    wut kinda speedz r u clockin on this

  9. #9
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    Haven't made any speed runs just yet. I am trying out the 1:1 gearing with a MMM ESC and 2250kv motor. The power system heats up rather quickly, so not sure how well it's going to hold up to speed runs. We'll see.
    Jeremy

  10. #10
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    More details?

  11. #11
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    Here are some updated pics with the stock motor and pinion turned around. Gear alignment is perfect. Once I get all of the bugs worked out, I'll post up how to modify the slipper assemblies so that anyone can try this out.





  12. #12
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    Alright guys, the first set of pictures was a Slash 4x4 slipper with extensive modification and filing of various parts. The second set was a Revo 3.3 slipper with Slash 4x4 shaft, bearing bushing, spring, etc. I had to do some filing to the back plate, bearing bushing and shaft.

    The set below is a Robinson Racing Revo 3.3 Gen3 slipper (38T spur) with Slash 4x4 shaft, bearing bushing, spring, etc. No modifications were done to any part. They are as is. The pin is through the rear most hole in the shaft. If anything, I may need to add some shims to get the motor mount bearing positioned exactly where it needs to be. Right now the shaft can be moved back and about 50% of the bearing will come out of the mount.






    I believe I will go with this setup in my 4wd XO-1. The only part I should have to modify is the center driveshaft. It will have to be cut down to length due to the slipper shaft being longer than the stock cush drive shaft.
    Last edited by ponie1992; 06-19-2013 at 04:04 PM.

  13. #13
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    Btw, the Robinson slipper assembly runs very true. No wobbling like you get with the other slippers.

  14. #14
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    Installed the Robinson Racing slipper in my 4wd XO-1 today to do some testing, but as my luck would have it... it is now raining.


  15. #15
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    Ok, so I was able to sneak in a little testing up and down my street. Good news is, I got hardly any wheel spin (testing with 4s). The car was very controllable when heavy in the throttle. Bad news is, I had the slipper too loose from the beginning and got it extremely hot. It discolored the spur gear and glazed the pad. But, I can flip the pad over, lightly sand the spur and start off next time at full tight. After I noticed the slipper smoking, I tightened it all the way and got good results, but the pad and spur were already glazed and would have been a lot better had I started at full tight. A cooldown for the slipper may be necessary after each run, but not having the car get all stupid out of control when nailing the throttle was nice. I'll update more once I can do more testing. See the pics below of what the spur looks like after lol.



  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. danielhr77's Avatar
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    Wow, that's hot!
    He who dies with the most toys wins !!!

  17. #17
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    Yep. Checked it with a temp gun and got over 150. This was after I stopped running and brought the car inside, so it had a few minutes to cool down a little from what it was.

  18. #18
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    Did a little more testing the other day. I tightened the slipper all the way and ran the car. This time the slipper did not get very hot at all and would not slip during normal putting around. It did slip when I got pretty heavy in the throttle and the car was still more controllable than before because the tires did not spin. I will hopefully get this thing out soon and try it during some speed runs.

  19. #19
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    Could you post a full parts (part numbers) list for this setup? I'm very eager to try it out!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyMoore View Post
    Could you post a full parts (part numbers) list for this setup? I'm very eager to try it out!
    Which slipper setup do you want more info on? I have modified the stock 4x4 Slash, Revo w/ 4x4 Slash shaft and the Robinson Racing w/ 4x4 Slash shaft.

  21. #21
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    My apologies, the Revo setup.

  22. #22
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    For the Revo setup, you will need the following:

    Traxxas 6893 Input shaft (slipper shaft)/ bearing adapter (1)/pin (1)
    Slash 4x4 slipper spring and nut
    Revo slipper clutch assembly

    You will need to extend the flats on the rear of the shaft where it goes into the rear diff. The flats on mine are ≈5.75mm (measured after the shaft was shortened). You will need to shorten the shaft by filing down the rear of the shaft. Mine is ≈55.5mm in total length. You will need to file down the bearing adapter where it sits against the small bearing within the spur gear. Mine is ≈7.2mm tall. The rear plate will also need to be filed down to remove the "fins" so they won't rub against the rear diff. I believe I set the pin in the forward most hole in the shaft (currently not running this slipper, but that looks to be correct). You will also need to shorten your center driveshaft. I used a hacksaw and then cleaned it up with a file. Take a good measurement before cutting to ensure you don't cut off too much.

    That should be it. Keep in mind that you want to start testing with the clutch fully tight to avoid burning it up. Also, my measurements may not be exact for your car. There can be slight differences between parts and you may need to file more or less. Just make sure you test fit between filing and make sure everything turns freely.

    Hope this helps and let me know how it turns out.
    Last edited by ponie1992; 07-04-2013 at 09:32 AM.

  23. #23
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    Hmm, that seems like a little too much fab work for me. I guess I will pay out for the RRP setup, it just bolts up...aside from one slice of the center shaft?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyMoore View Post
    Hmm, that seems like a little too much fab work for me. I guess I will pay out for the RRP setup, it just bolts up...aside from one slice of the center shaft?
    Yep. You still need the Slash 4x4 shaft and bearing adapter. You will have some play backward and forward, but you can try to take that up with some type of washer. I took some of the play out of mine with a Traxxas little gray washer, but ended up taking it back out because the assembly really doesn't move around on it's own. Mine stays put. The only reason I found the play in it is because I physically moved it by hand. The up front cost is a little up there, but I think the RRP setup is the most durable. The only thing you should have to worry about maintaining is the slipper pad, but they aren't too expensive.

    Remember to take a good measurement before cutting the center shaft. I think I removed about 1/2 inch from mine, but could have gone less. Let me know if you need any more help.

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