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  1. #1
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    T-Maxx 2.5 to E-maxx Brushless

    Hello, I have recently acquired this beauty off ebay very cheaply.



    My plan is to make it a brushless build that should yield me a truck very similar to an E-Maxx for around half the price.

    My main concern at the moment is the E-Maxx brushless transmission. I have seen in several builds it does not exactly fit perfectly due to the differences in body. I was wondering what I could do to make it fit, I was thinking of buying an E-maxx chassis brace such as this one.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/GH-02571-Alu...item51ac7a0955

    Would this brace allow me to flush mount the e-maxx tranny or are the chassis just too different?

    Also I remind you, I am buying a brushless tranny so I can save myself headaches, and this chassis just seems perfect to build an E-maxx on. I got the chassis for $32 dollars on ebay! and the total cost of the build is around $400 motor+ESC+Battery+Wheels
    Last edited by leor; 05-23-2013 at 01:47 PM.

  2. #2
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    Nice score. That's a early pro .15 tmaxx. Only problem with them is tht the diffs are weaker than the newer emaxx diffs, same with the shock towers.

  3. #3
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    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
    if you haven't seen any of these you should think about getting one
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by eschmitt4 View Post
    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
    if you haven't seen any of these you should think about getting one
    I figured this would be simpler
    item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=140972883780&index=0&nav=SEARCH&ni d=35111736264

    or would you recommend the other bracket?
    Last edited by leor; 05-23-2013 at 05:13 PM.

  5. #5
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    This is currently what I plan on buying as for upgrading the chassis.



    I read I should also get new drive shafts? Is this a good idea?

  6. #6
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    New drive shafts are a great idea. Those little ones stand no chance.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    Those diffs don’t appear to be BL diffs unless someone changed the hardware, I would spend a few more $$ and install the BL diffs,
    Depending on how you mount/placement of the BL tranny if you go that route, you will have to find a set of decent center shafts to fit also or you will be stuck using stock slider shafts and replace when necessary.

    +2 on the little pro.15 wheel shafts, they dont stand a chance with BL power.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    Those diffs don’t appear to be BL diffs unless someone changed the hardware, I would spend a few more $$ and install the BL diffs,
    Depending on how you mount/placement of the BL tranny if you go that route, you will have to find a set of decent center shafts to fit also or you will be stuck using stock slider shafts and replace when necessary.

    +2 on the little pro.15 wheel shafts, they dont stand a chance with BL power.
    Are these ok or should I go with aftermarket ones?
    http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw...drive&_sacat=0

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    The 3.3 spec wheel shafts will not work unless you upgrade the a-arms, axle carriers and toe links to 3.3 spec.
    For center shafts you will have to determine if you are going to use the BL EMaxx transmission and after mounting it then determine which center shafts to use. If you use stock 3.3 center slider shafts you will most likely have to modify the chassis as well for clearance of the bigger diameter shafts.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    The 3.3 spec wheel shafts will not work unless you upgrade the a-arms, axle carriers and toe links to 3.3 spec.
    For center shafts you will have to determine if you are going to use the BL EMaxx transmission and after mounting it then determine which center shafts to use. If you use stock 3.3 center slider shafts you will most likely have to modify the chassis as well for clearance of the bigger diameter shafts.
    So I would also need these?

    and what do you mean about modding the chassis?

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    You would need those carriers, the 3.3 arms and the 3.3 toe links, tbey are all longer then whats on the chassis you have.

    You bought a 1st generation pro.15 maxx, the latest is 5th gen and parts are different, a lot is interchangable but you have to swap out multible parts at the same time to make it work.

    If your handy with basic tools you can mske a plate to mount the BL trany right to a T maxx chassis.

    I would recomed you look for a 4908 or 4907 T maxx chassis roller as your starting point, your gonna spend way more trying to bring what have up to BL standards then if you buy a better starting point from the get go.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    You would need those carriers, the 3.3 arms and the 3.3 toe links, tbey are all longer then whats on the chassis you have.

    You bought a 1st generation pro.15 maxx, the latest is 5th gen and parts are different, a lot is interchangable but you have to swap out multible parts at the same time to make it work.

    If your handy with basic tools you can mske a plate to mount the BL trany right to a T maxx chassis.

    I would recomed you look for a 4908 or 4907 T maxx chassis roller as your starting point, your gonna spend way more trying to bring what have up to BL standards then if you buy a better starting point from the get go.
    Holy crap ok, this is my part list atm.

    Brushless motor+esc (Please opinion on this esc+motor combo+battery I chose)
    New e-maxx Tranny with spur gear
    New e-maxx arms+hubs
    emaxx wheels
    emaxx driveshafts
    emaxx differential
    Lipo 4S 35C battery
    Lipo Charger

    Would be missing, the RC system (using a lent one) and a body.

    Please any input? Also should I just wait and get everything in aluminum when I have more money since im already rebuilding the chassis?

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    If looking to go the aluminum route your gonna end up at the $1000 mark by the time your done, you might as wait till you have the needed funds and buy it all at once one time then buying a bunch of bits your not going to end up using.

    Forn the BL system you'd be better asking for opinions over the BL side of the forums for a better responce.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  14. #14
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    So guys at the end I got the following
    • E-maxx Brushless Transmission w/motor mount
    • T-Maxx 3.3 Axle carriers
    • E-maxx A Arms
    • E-maxx driveshafts
    • 17mm aluminum hubs
    • Xerun 150a 2200kv Sensored
    • SPC 5000mah 2S 40C batteries Hardcase x2
    • Thunder AC6 Smart LiPo Balance Charger/Discharger w/ AC Adapter for 1-6 Lipo


    Now what I'm missing: Body, Wheels, and RC remote. I was wondering what RC remote would get the job done for under $50 Also what wheels would you recommend?

    Any thing you guys see off about my build? I took alot of time and researched alot, I had the hardest time figuring out the batteries and charger

  15. #15
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    Trencher x's are great. I would go with the tqi I think you can find it around there new on eBay but there is better options like a fly sky or something.


    Sent from my iPhone 4
    Summit

  16. #16
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    id go with ******* ********'s lipos, not the plain ******* batteries. Ive heard mainly bad things on the basic *******'s. I have the ********'s and they work well.

    ive heard good things on the xerun combos.
    Last edited by silvertrd; 06-08-2013 at 04:10 PM. Reason: message error

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by leor View Post
    So guys at the end I got the following

    Now what I'm missing: Body, Wheels, and RC remote. I was wondering what RC remote would get the job done for under $50 Also what wheels would you recommend?

    Any thing you guys see off about my build? I took alot of time and researched alot, I had the hardest time figuring out the batteries and charger
    I got a Specktrum DX3s it has loads of options and then you only need one remote. just buy recievers as you get more. I hated going out with 4 or 5 remotes. I'm going to buy a 4 channel for when i build my summit and now i'll have 2 remotes to run 7 RC trucks.

  18. #18
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    I just saw TQi are the best bang for buck... I don't need too many features and I don't own an iphone/itouch

    Edit: Also I got the SPC batteries, 2S 40C 5000mah for $60 I doubt anyone can match that...

    Also should I be worried about my diffs? They are still 2.5 stock and also the center drive shafts are still stock too...
    Last edited by leor; 06-10-2013 at 03:40 PM.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    With BL/lipo power you are going to kill the diff's & driveshafts of the pro .15 truck.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    With BL/lipo power you are going to kill the diff's & driveshafts of the pro .15 truck.
    Like literally instantly? I'm out of cash. I have the stock center driveshafts but the upgraded arm shafts

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    BL with lipo & pro .15 centers, they aren't going to last long.

    If your easy on the throttle you can make them last till you have the cash to replace them, if your looking for WOT from a standstill or standing back-flips they probably won't last the first pack or 2.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  22. #22
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    Hey to make life easier I found out that Hot Racing has Electric Power conversion kit for the tmaxx.

  23. #23
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    ive seen another thread somewhere on the hot racing piece, it doesn't seem to have good results. i'll see if I can find the thread...

  24. #24
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    Little update! New arms, hubs, arm drive shafts!

    Got the brushless transmission in the mail so I can start figuring out how to create a mounting plate for it.

    Last edited by leor; 06-15-2013 at 02:02 PM.

  25. #25
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    Hello guys new issues! I basically ended up building an Emaxx

    I still haven't gotten a remote and I thought you tinkerers would find this cool
    Controlling the Car with Arduino
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHE3ABRDMUw

    Now my other problem, I was testing the frame and I have UNCONTROLLABLE vibration, is this normal??
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDxvHt12iyc

    Still can't wait to run this thing, it looks bloody fast on 4S 40C with 21/68 gears.

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    1st, it appears 1 of the diffs is installed upside down as it looks like the front and rear wheels are spinning opposite of each other.

    2nd, the vibration is the tires are out of balance.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snook Man View Post
    1st, it appears 1 of the diffs is installed upside down as it looks like the front and rear wheels are spinning opposite of each other.

    2nd, the vibration is the tires are out of balance.
    How do I know which is upsidedown without taking it all apart? Also I will look into how to balance the tires...

    Thanks

  28. #28
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    Well first crash, and almost shredded my slipper pad entirely! I have it on 4S lipos and I can feel the slipper glutch getting used up ALOT. I think I am going to change my gear ratio. Also transmission basically poped off because I used the wrong size screws. Hopefully not much else got damaged...

    Ugh Oh well.

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