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  1. #1
    RC Champion
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    home-made N-BONE SKID PLATES for and extended chassis with rear wheel steering

    OK so I couldn't LEGALLY say T-Bone, so they are N-Bone skid plates.
    My chassis ran an inch too long and I also needed some protection for the rear servo and steering system. Unlike the stock summit chassis the SummVee has a bulge at the rear, so the standard T-Bone would not fit. So creative thinking (and some blantant copying . . . . err . . . . . "borrowing") I am making my own "N-BONE" skid plates.




    chassis shot



    N-BONE initial card board mock up and measurements




    A-Arm skids



    fitment



    front servo protection



    rear servo protection





    add some plexiglass, a "heat gun", rite dye, drill and screws and I should be in business

    MAN, Use Common Sense
    Funky Gecko, SumVee HDE

  2. #2
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    NO SWEAT. looks like a great idea to make your own. hope it turns out well.
    I'm not krazy. My mother had me tested.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Wow, looks nice, I hope it works out good for ya!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh Teton/Rally T-Maxx Pnde

  4. #4
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    Noir; make sure and let us know how the heat gun works on the plexiglass as I was wondering the same thing with my extended chassis only not sure how a heat gun would work on Lexan. So might have to change my plans and go with plexiglass.
    Endeavoring to persevere !

  5. #5
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    Ive been making body panels for years with a heat gun and that plexi. It works great, just watch your heat or you will boil it and put bubbles in the finish.

  6. #6
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    heat gun works fine. plexiglass is supposed to melt near 320 degrees, but this plexiglass is nearly a 1/4 inch thick. So I set it at 720 and took my time. Less than 10 minutes to heat up, bend and cool down.




    MAN, Use Common Sense
    Funky Gecko, SumVee HDE

  7. #7
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    Looks great Noir and should work well. Only one question; did you just use a straight edge on your lines to bend the PG after heating it up? My heat gun only has a high and low no temp settings so guess experimentation will be required on my part.
    Approximately how much working time did you have after heating it up before it cooled back down?
    One more LOL; been contemplating taking the drive shaft skid plate off when I get eds skid plate done, as to me with the big skid plate covering it up why would it be required. Also would make it a lot easier for maintenance.
    Stand offs what are you using, T-bones?
    Oh well went from one question to 3 lol.
    Endeavoring to persevere !

  8. #8
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    I used a sharpy to make the lines , then I sandwiched the glass between to wooden blocks on each side with the sharpie line , then ran the heat gun across the line for about 2 minutes. Recommended tem is 320, I was impatient and used 720 (this plastic is around a 1/4 inch thick) . Worked. once the plastic is soft you can bend it to your desired angle. At 720 I had approximatly 2.5 - 3 minutes to perfect the angle before it started to harden again.

    The (stock) drive shaft skid plate effectively keeps out the dirt, pebbles, and debris for it is form fitting.

    No stand offs - its flat against the chassis.

    ____________

    After some rock crawling - It is holding up well, lots of scratches,

    "the plastic screeches as the rocks carves their intials into its underbelly."

    The rear angle is too extreme, big rocks stop it too easily, I think I might redo it with a low angle-ramp design

    Last edited by noir 522; 07-10-2013 at 05:37 PM.
    MAN, Use Common Sense
    Funky Gecko, SumVee HDE

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