Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Light System

  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Albany, New York
    Posts
    460

    Light System

    The time has come where I want to put some lights on my emaxx. I want some really good lights. I don't know where to start, LED? Kits? Any suggestions are very helpful or posting pics can really help me too.
    Does anyone know how I can put some lights on my Emaxx?
    How would the lights be powered? What options are out there?
    Any chance of anybody knowing any waterproof lighting systems?
    Is it possible to control the lights coming on and off with my transmitter?
    Thanks !

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimmie Neutron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Alma, MI
    Posts
    12,279
    LED's are waterproof by design... they are 100% sealed.

    Controlling then with your Tx will take an Rx switch due to the Rx power always being on.

    I suggest powering them with the Rx... steady 6 volts of power (usually). Because of this, be sure to get LED's that are a division of 6... 2 or 3... 6 will work too (as well as slightly less than 2, 3, or 6). The ones with less voltage capability will need to be wired in series to get up to 6 volts unless you want to incorporate resistors.

    Here is a handy resistor calculator:
    http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

    Now, if you want backup lights and all of that you might be ahead of the game to buy a kit. If not, it will be much cheaper to build it yourself.
    Whatever it is I just said... I could be wrong.

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Chatsworth GA
    Posts
    101
    here is my write-up on how to make your awesome new light set turn on and off using your 3-channel radio.
    Here is a list of parts I used to make this all happen. (Links to BSHRC when available)


    *Note: You may be using a different size, color, or number of LEDs. Different colors and sizes of LED need different voltages. Always be sure to run the numbers through a resistor calculator like THIS ONE HERE to see what resistors you need to purchase and attach to keep your LEDs burning and not burned out!
    **Note: This ESC does not have a brake or reverse for the motor. If you would like reverse lights to operate on your LEDs, then you will need a forward/reverse ESC.
    I do not have step-by step photos as I already had most of this assembled already. I will however try to do my best to illustrate how this should all wire together.
    While the soldering iron is heating up, have all of your materials laid out, so that they are easy to access.
    Wiring your LEDs
    • Looking at your car or truck, decide where you want to install your LEDs. I am installing mine in an old Halloween decoration of a small plastic skull. If you want or require an LED holder for your installation, be sure to pick up the propper size to mount your LEDs.
    • You can go ahead and make the holes, and install any mounts or holders now.
    • Pick up one of the LEDs to be installed and inspect it. One of the legs is longer than the other. The longer leg is the + side and the shorter is the - side.
    • Tin the legs of the LEDs by heating the legs, and applying a small amount of solder to each one. You may also trim the legs down using nippers or body scissors. Just be sure to remember which leg is + and -.
    • Place the LEDs into the location to be mounted. If mounting directly into lexan body, I suggest using hot glue or epoxy. CA glue could harm the paint or lexan, giving it a cloudy white color.
    • I am using the servo extension to power my LEDs. You could also use some small gauge wire if you do not need to unplug them. I just find it easier to have a plug to disconnect them when servicing the vehicle.
    • Cut the servo extension in the middle and seperate the white or yellow wire from the others. You can clip this wire off, or remove it from the plug using an x-acto knife or small pick.
    • Strip the coating on the cut ends of the wire back about 1/4 of an inch and tin them using the same procedure as the legs on the LEDs.
    • Cut a piece of heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the bare wire, resistor, and leg of the LED.
    • Take one of the resistors and trim the wires on both sides down to 1/4 inch and tin them the same as the wires and legs of the LEDs.
    • Solder the red wire to one side of the resistor. It is not important which end because the reistor works either way.
    • Slide the heat shrink tube you cut before down over the resistor and down the wire a little so that the other end of the resistor is exposed. You may have to seperate the red and black wires a small distance to get the tubing back far enough.
    • Solder the other end of the resistor to the long leg of the first LED, and slide the heat shrink tube up to the base of the LED and shrink it using a lighter, heat gun, or heat from your soldering iron.
    • Connect the short leg of the first LED to the long leg of the second LED. My mounting location is close enough that I do not need a wire to run from the first LED to the second. You may have to use a small piece of wire and some heat shrink tubing to connect these together.
    • Do this as many times as it takes to connect all of your LEDs together. I am only using 2 at this time so I am at the end of the chain.
    • Cut another piece of heat shrink tube long enough to cover the bare wire and last leg of the last LED and slide it up onto the black wire.
    • Solder the black wire to the short leg of the last LED, and cover the connection with heat shrink tube.

    This is what you should have now.

    We will be powering our ESC from the receiver so that we do not need another battery, or a second connection to the same battery. For that reason, we will be changing a few things here.
    The receiver will get its power from the motor ESC.
    • Since the LED ESC doesnt need to send power to the receiver, we clip the red and black wires about 1.5" back from the receiver plug.
    • Trim the power wires off even with the red and black wires coming from the receiver plug.
    • Strip the power wires and receiver plug wires back about 1/4".
    • This is what you should have now:

    • Tin these 4 wires, solder together, and heat shrink.

    • Strip the motor wires back about 1/4" and tin them.
    • Now take the other half of the servo extension from before, remove the white or yellow wire, strip the red and black wires back about 1/4", and tin them.
    • Solder the motor output wires to the servo extension, and heat shrink the bare connections. In my case, the ESC used to power the LEDs has blue and white motor wires. White is + and blue is -.


    Test out your new LED controller!

    Video of my LED Controller in action!

    There are probably cheaper options out there like this light controller from HeyOk.
    I just had this ESC laying around for probably 8 years and it had never been used. mg: So I found a use for it.

    I hope this helps you guys out there and happy modding!

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Albany, New York
    Posts
    460
    Thanks, hey does anybody know where and what kind of tires are on this emaxx and what wheels I would be able to dye and mount them on to fit onto my emaxx 17mm?
    http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...e-dscn2552.jpg

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Chatsworth GA
    Posts
    101
    The tires look identical to mine. They are Knock-off Bow Ties. They are usually purchased from china shops pre-mounted to 40 series racing dish wheels. Check the truggy tires and wheels on asiatees, dinball, and other chinese shops or ebay them.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •