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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Pro2 Chassis Rebuild - The next Phase

    Slow I have have been adding parts to my trusty Slash to make it handle better on the track, my goal is to race it locally and have a respectable showing.

    So far I have added big-bore shocks, a ProTrak kit, and lipo power. The next phase, a new chassis:

    [/URL]

    After I get the suspension turned up I will put in a ROAR legal power plant and will be ready to go.

    Along with being a build thread I'm going to post a review of this chassis for both the build and its performance.

    Proline Pro-2 Chassis-
    Unboxing:
    - There is no box, everything comes in a bag. But, the parts are sorted out into bags. The chassis itself is a milled work of art.
    Instructions:
    - The instructions consist of one 8"x11" page with 5 steps Everything looks easy enough, but we'll see once the build starts.
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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    - The instructions consist of one 8"x11" page with 5 steps Everything looks easy enough, but we'll see once the build starts.
    The chassis is pretty straight forward,I am starting one my self since they are going to have a class just for that truck.
    Not a huge pro line fan,nor do I think their lcg is one I would have chose for the class they are starting.(quite pricey for a piece of aluminum)
    But It's a long story as to the way this dissension came about.
    Best of luck to you.
    I'm not starting a build thread but will follow yours as I did itsstock's.
    He ended up with a fine truck.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Last edited by billy-bones; 05-07-2013 at 06:09 AM.
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Looks good so far, post plenty of detailed pics.

    What powerplant are you going to go with?
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    Looks good so far, post plenty of detailed pics.

    What powerplant are you going to go with?
    Don't know right now. I have just installed a Duratrax DE10 and LRP 12X 17.5T motor in my buggy (just got done soldering them up about 20 minutes ago), both are ROAR legal. I'm going to do some testing this weekend to see how I like the combo, if it works out I'll likely run this in my Slash as well.

    After almost a month of online research and talking to friends that race and the 'experts' at the local track, most sources have said the same thing, get at least a mid-grade ESC, but get a really good motor.
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Novak has some nice stuff.
    If you haven't looked already here's a nice one.
    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Fck-MgodpU4ADQ
    But the system you put in is probably fine.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 05-08-2013 at 06:58 AM.
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  6. #6
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    I'm also in the PL buildup scene. So far so good

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    This phase of the build is complete!

    Everything went together pretty well (once I found all of the bags of parts that I dumped out on my computer desk). There were a couple of small issues, but nothing major.

    I tore down my Slash from its stock chassis and layed out all of the parts:



    Here is what I ended up with:


    Here are all of the parts I have left over:



    ...and with the body on:



    Issues with the build:
    1. Steering:
    - There isn't really good instructions on how to put the steering back together. When reinstalling the PL steering kit, I wasn't sure if I was supposed to put the spacers in that I used with the stock chassis (the spacers that go on the bottom of the bellcranks). I went ahead and installed them, the steering seems to be fine.
    - This install flips the servo, so I had to reverse the channel on my radio and recenter the servo arm. Also, the instructions say to make the servo link 50.8mm, this, along with the optional spacer made the arm too long and limited turning to the left. I shortened the servo arm to 49mm and removed the spacer and the steering is now dead on.
    - Getting the 5mm nuts installed that connect up the steering to the wheels is a major bear with the tools I had, the front shock tower and body mount is in the way. To not get frustrated with it I recommend a long 5mm nut-driver, I don't have one of those, so I used the itty-bitty 5mm wrench that came with one of my Traxxas RCs, it worked, but it could have been easier and taken about 10 seconds vs the 10 minutes it took me.





    Overall Review of the Build:
    It is a very good kit, everything went together with little drama. I just put about 1/4 of a pack through it and it handles A LOT differently, most of the body roll is gone and it seems like it is a lot more planted. Tomorrow I'm going to the track to see how it handles there. It is a great kit for someone that is experienced with hobby-grade RCs and really knows their way around a Slash, but it might be a little frustrating for a noob without someone there to provide guidance.

    Things I like:
    - PL Includes a lot of hardware, everything you need to covert from a stock Slash is in the bag (once you have found all of the bags you have dumped out).
    - The aluminum chassis plate is very stout, has a nice finish and the mill work is really good.
    - Fit and finish on all of the parts is good.

    Things to improve:
    Instructions:
    - What comes with the truck is bearly adiquate. From the pictures and the screws listed on the left you get the idea of how it is supposed to go together.
    - There are a number of options and optional parts. It would be nice if they were expained a little better, and where listed as optional for the screw-list on the left.
    - If nothing else, it would be nice if PL put a build video up.
    - It would be nice to include a tear-down sheet for the stock Slash so you know how far to take it part. Reading through the instructions a time or three I saw what I needed to do, but someone who isn't familiar with this truck might have issues.
    Hardware:
    - The only problem I have with the hardware that they have included are the 2.5mm screws, they have really tight threads that are easy to strip if you are not careful.
    Last edited by Greatscott; 05-11-2013 at 06:29 PM.
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  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Your rig looks very nice.
    Good build. I started one from scratch,didn't use an existing slash,so it's taking a bit longer.
    Nice job,hope you do good at the track.
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  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Your rig looks very nice.
    Good build. I started one from scratch,didn't use an existing slash,so it's taking a bit longer.
    Nice job,hope you do good at the track.
    Thanks, I am looking forward to seeing what it can do.

    The next two things on my list for this truck are shocks, then a new power plant.
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Went to the local indoor track today for some testing and it was a rain-out... They put too much water on the track this morning turning the whole thing into mush, with our weather turning rainy the next couple of days it will likely take a day or so for the track to be drivable.
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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Went to the local indoor track today for some testing and it was a rain-out... They put too much water on the track this morning turning the whole thing into mush, with our weather turning rainy the next couple of days it will likely take a day or so for the track to be drivable.
    What a bummer.
    I really hate that,you charge up some cell's,you count lap's in your head to get to sleep,and wake up to the sound of rain drops.
    It must be worse when it's not raining and they over water the track.
    That's when you wish you had your good old water proof slash back.
    Sometimes these high-breads have their down falls.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 05-13-2013 at 06:15 PM.
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Finally got some track time!!!

    Overall I really like the new chassis, very stable and responsive on the track, worlds better handling over the stock chassis!!! Two things I REALLY need to get are new shocks and tires.

    The stock Ultras really try, but there is just so much tuning you can do with them, and I have one that insists on leaking. I have a set of big bores on my 4x4 I'll move over.

    The tires I have are not made for damp clay tracks, they hook up ok, but the lugs on the tread are so high they want to roll the tire sideways, especially on the rears. The tire of choice at this track are JConcepts Barcodes, so when my RC budget allows I'll mount up a set of these.
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  13. #13
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    how do you like the chassis? was it pretty easy going together?

    im thinking of doing this to my chasss.its more of a basher.
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    How do the like the duratrax DE10 Esc?
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMaxxcrazy33 View Post
    how do you like the chassis? was it pretty easy going together?

    im thinking of doing this to my chasss.its more of a basher.
    The only two things I can say negatively about this chassis are the cost, there are cheaper LCG chassis. And, it is a major pain to get the 5mm screws back in (see above). Other than those to things, I really like it.

    Quote Originally Posted by TMaxxcrazy33 View Post
    how do you like the chassis? was it pretty easy going together?

    im thinking of doing this to my chasss.its more of a basher.
    This ESC is supper smooth, nice throttle response and VERY easy to program.
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  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    Duratrax always had excellent Esc for the price. I might consider this. Been considering but never seen anyone run or review it.
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  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx2.0 View Post
    Duratrax always had excellent Esc for the price. I might consider this. Been considering but never seen anyone run or review it.
    I have about 6 packs through it so far, no problems. I had to pull out the programmer at the track and dial in some drag-brake, which too all of about a minute. It is a little annoying have to pull the RX wire to do this, I'd prefer of it had a port on the ESC itself to plug into, but this is a VERY minor issue.

    One other thing about the chassis I forgot, the VXL doesn't fit very well on the ESC mounting plate. It would work a lot better if I broke the mounting tabs off, but I did this once with my XL-10 and later wished I hadn't. Given that this chassis is Slash specific, it seems like Proline could have made an ESC plate that would allow a stock Traxxas ESC to bolt into. I will say that my Spektrum RC fits perfectly right under the ESC mounting plate.
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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I will say that my Spektrum RC fits perfectly right under the ESC mounting plate.
    This is something you might want to rethink,imo,and that of many others with this lcg.
    Most people with the pro line lcg have glitching issues with the receiver and esc so close together after a bit.
    And tho I don't share your enthusiasm about the pl lcg,it's not bad.
    Right behind the servo seems to be the install point of choice for the receiver on this lcg.
    Also suggested by pro line.
    [IMG][/IMG]
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  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    How does the receiver and Esc being close together cause glitching? I never experience this in touring car racing?
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  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx2.0 View Post
    How does the receiver and Esc being close together cause glitching? I never experience this in touring car racing?
    I forget
    I know Ive heard about this though
    But it does happen
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    looking good man, i have this chassis as well for my race truck and i must say i love it. started out with the stock chassis which worked ok, but i would randomly traction roll when i was really hooked up at the track. me racing dirt oval by the way. once i switched to the proline lcg it was night and day. battery placed all the way back, esc fits good on platform with the one mounting tab removed (bought it used this way). then receiver mounted just in front of battery in the common spot. stock velineon works decent at track but i will upgrade eventually. and im still running stock suspension arms and not even pro 2 yet.

    as far as shocks, the ones that worked awesome for me are stock losi ten scte. i run the lighter springs but we dont jump at all. i think they would be pretty good with just an oil change if you jump at all. good luck to you though.

    Last edited by 08kgraves; 05-20-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx2.0 View Post
    How does the receiver and Esc being close together cause glitching? I never experience this in touring car racing?
    I'm not 100% either,but a lot of people with this,or this style chassis,have run into the to electric units interfering with each other do to being so close.
    D,J experienced it first hand,and as I looked into it,many others have run into the same issue.
    However not knowing much about electronics I really cant give a reason.
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  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    This is something you might want to rethink,imo,and that of many others with this lcg.
    Most people with the pro line lcg have glitching issues with the receiver and esc so close together after a bit.
    I was wondering about that, I have had the issue back when I ran on AM radios, but I have seen any glitching of that sort with 2.4Ghz. One thing I thing I have done differently is how I have my antenna run, it is not touching the chassis and I have it set parallel to the the ground vs vertical. I took a piece of antenna tube and zip-tied it in on the right side of the chassis. I had full control at the track with no signs of glitches.

    With that said, the spot behind the servo is my second choice for a mounting location, if I notice glitching I will move it there. I am hoping not, it is a perfect it where it is at, it is out of the way with all of the wires neatly tucked away.
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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    just keep in mind also that the receiver is super light. and consider how much forward bite you will lose by not having your battery as far back as possible. forward bite to me for racing is way more important than my receiver being "neatly tucked away". it still fits good in front of the battery, better traction with battery as far back as possible. i mean thats all just my opinion. set it up how you like by any means, my opinions are best for dirt oval though. a medium to big dirt oval at that, not a tight corner one.
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  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    Interesting. See why I say I don't understand it glitch. Never ran I to issues with the graphite chassis in TC ith old fm receivers.
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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I was going to mount my esc behind the battery but had nightmares of the battery coming loss and crushing it.[IMG][/IMG]
    I have since went with 08kgraves idea and went with moving the battery all the way back.Then mounted the esc on the rear shelf,per T,D,J suggestion(and tales of his glitching problems)with the receiver up front.
    Hope yours does alright back there.
    Wish I knew why the start glitching after a while and not right away.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I still haven't run this rig,been to busy helping Big A get started. This weekend will be the latest,maybe in the next day or two.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 05-20-2013 at 10:30 PM.
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  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08kgraves View Post
    just keep in mind also that the receiver is super light. and consider how much forward bite you will lose by not having your battery as far back as possible. forward bite to me for racing is way more important than my receiver being "neatly tucked away". it still fits good in front of the battery, better traction with battery as far back as possible. i mean thats all just my opinion. set it up how you like by any means, my opinions are best for dirt oval though. a medium to big dirt oval at that, not a tight corner one.
    But it looks so... neat... and clean...

    This is all good stuff and I am in no way calling my setup 'good'. I'll take all of the input and move stuff around and see what works best for me. Thanks for all of the comments and sharing your builds!!!
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  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    no problem at all. your current setup might work better for you if tight corners are involved because the weight further forward will allow you to corner faster. fast cornering isnt really needed for me though. heres a chase video, my car is the black and flourecent green one that doesnt come in until about 1/2 way through video. but you can see how mine handles in corners up close with my setup.

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  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    That is pretty cool, what camera did you use and what sofrware did you put that together with? I have a Hero2 that I want to mount on my Slash. For video editing I was thinking about downloading Sony Studio 11, its basicly a stipped down version of Sony Vegas.

    On a track like that I can see why you'd want a lot of foward bit on the rear wheels. The two tracks I'll be running on are moist high-traction clay.
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  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    i didnt put the video together so i couldnt tell you lol. bandittransit put it all together, it was his camera as well.

    but yeah for something with alot more traction you could probably get away with a further forward battery i would guess. we have to fight for every bit of traction we can get on our track though lol
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  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Best thing is to try different set ups.
    They did make it easy to change the battery around.
    I went with 08kgraves idea,but our tracks are mainly loss dirt on the circuit.
    But as the racing season goes I will change that and shock weights on a regular basis,unless I strike gold,and find the perfect setup.
    Not likely tho,as the track conditions change as the day goes on.
    Stopped by an indoor clay track yesterday.
    Wow how nice and clean,but it felt very restricted.
    It will however be the place of choice this winter,Since it is also the only choice.
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  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    yeah, wish there was anything indoor around me to run in the winter time......... may have to do some searching
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