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Thread: New Build...

  1. #1
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    New Build...

    Okay guys, so you have all talked me into the MombaMonster2 for my new build, so I am looking for a few other things and opinions from you all.

    1. Steering servos, stock are plastic gears; I like the water proof feature… Also, single or dual steering servo?? Ideas??

    2. Screw kit, I’m buying this partially assembled, so I know I’ll need screws, best option??

    3. With MERV, there is a major suspension issue; is there the same issue? If so, what makes for good replacements??

    4. This unit will have RPM A-arms installed on it already; any additional upgrades you all recommend??

    5. Shim the differentials for this like I did with my MERV, Right?? What size shims are they??

    6. Install center differential??

    7. CV axles and drive shafts… they look great, are they worth the upgrade cost?

    8. Pinion/spur gear options… 21/54 best bet??

    I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I go on. I am just looking for you opinions, I like to draw on the experience of those who have more of it than me. So thank you in advance for your thoughts..
    Last edited by kstageberg; 05-02-2013 at 09:20 AM.
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  2. #2
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    1. Savox servos are cheap but (if the reports are to be believed) buggy and need a BEC, Hitec are expensive but reliable. You get what you pay for.
    2. EDS make the best hex wrenches I've ever used. The company was started by one of the guys from Hudy, so you get comparable quality at a fraction of the price. Individual drivers as well as sets are sold relatively cheap on RCMart.
    3. ERBE has no suspension issues, stock shocks are fantastic. You may want to use the included stiffer springs though, and some heavier oil (I use 70 back 60 front).
    4. Rear chassis brace. Like this one, though some guys here DIY it. HPP upgrades are also very nice. Engine brace helps prevent stripping spurs, and their hubs eliminate wheel slop. ERBE has other weak parts, of course, but most people will just recommend you to upgrade them after they break. People like me, who have replaced more than half the car with upgrades before ever driving it are a minority
    5. 6, 8 and 10mm. You'll find plenty of guides with pictures on this forum.
    6. Haven't tried it myself, but the response from people who have isntalled it has been almost universally negative. Apparently the center diff redirects too much power to the front wheels, making your car almost 2wd.
    7. Opinions differ... The best compromise is probably getting a set of Summit axles since they are cheap, and are quite a bit tougher than stock ERBE junk. The next best option is using Traxxas steel CVDs, but most people will recommend against it because there have been many reports of them breaking. Then there's the MIP axles which are the most expensive and the toughest option. I run those myself and have only good things to say about them.
    8. 21/54 is the best compromise and what most people here run. I've also run 18/54, but in that configuration motor touches the ESC, and I didn't like that.
    Last edited by ignis; 05-02-2013 at 11:03 AM.

  3. #3
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    Ignis has answered all of your questions, almost nothing to add !

    7. Other option is to use losi LST/XXL axles, takes some modding but might be something to think about in the future. If you are able to have them not popping out of the drive cups, they are very hard to break or bend, and cheap to replace. Summit shafts can be expensive as you can mostly only buy them in a set of 2 long and 2 short shafts because of the way the summit is build. The revo needs 4 long shafts, so you might end up with spare short shafts.

    8. Yep 18/54 or 21/54. I have 18/54 and my motor is not rubbing the ESC. The motor is getting quite hot though, so i don't know if i want to go 21/54.



    Upgrades:
    Castle link, to set punch control and some other settings.
    Possibly LST2/XXL diffs, stock diffs will strip relatively fast on 6S. On 4S with shimming they last a while.

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    Great, thank you guys for your opinions, a few more for you.

    1. With the Hitec servo, one is enough or would it be worth doing dual? What is the part number?

    2. *ignis* with regards to the screw kit, are you speaking of the drivers and tools? I was asking about and actual screw kit for the entire car; I know rcscrewz has some but I think most of those are Phillips and I haven’t heard good things about the kit.

    3. That chassis brace looks like a great idea, is that for both front and rear??

    I get where you’re coming from so far as upgrade as you break, but when the car is torn apart and you’re building a lot of it you might as well start out strong rather than buy weak, break and have buy stronger later..
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    1.
    One hitec is more than enough. One servo is also preferred to prevent having them fighting against each other.

    2. I believe tony screws are good

    3. Only rear, rear gets the most stress from jumps, you can diy a front brace.

  6. #6
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    I use the airtronics 94780 metal geared servo with the heavy spring. This servo is incredible and I got it for 98$ from towerhobbies. I have used the hitec high voltage servos that need a bec and this servo is my favorite. No bec needed, although I am going to put a small capacitor for when the bec is hot and I am not being so gentle with the steering. I will not buy another hitec servo again, now that I know about the 94780. As for other upgrades, I would suggest the rear brace DIY (stock pushrod and a small plate over the shock mounts. 10 minute job if you have the right idea), after the stock diff goes out do the losi mod, and maybe even the losi driveshaft mod. I suggest getting a better esc fan as well, just for security. Upgrade as you break, and don't go overboard with the aluminum.
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    Yeah I made the aluminum mistake on my old Revo 3.3, made it super heavy, super expensive and things bend then and you may not know right away versus the plastic breaking. I thought the Hitech was a plug and play servo? How much modification needs to be done to make it work right?
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    I use a single Hitec HS-7950TH servo with ST Racing Concepts aluminium servo saver linkage set + STRC aluminum single steering servo saver arm. That servo is several times stronger than both stock servos combined, a little overkill for a car like ERBE, in fact. It will either move the wheels, or move whatever the wheels are standing on.

    As for the screw kit, get Tony's Screws. Don't fall for RCScrewz, HexScrews, and other overpriced junk.

  9. #9
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    The 6 volt servos are plug and play, but for the high voltage ones, to acheive the full power ratings need 7.4 volts. The airtronics is direct plug and play with the power to match the high voltage servos, much cheaper too...
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  10. #10
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    Quick question for you guys, im ordering upgraded axle shafts
    these ( http://www.tvrrc.com/shop/shop.html ) were brought to my attention; has anyone else used them or had any experience with them? they're expensive, but if they're that much better they may be worth the money..
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    I don't think anyone's ever complained about them.

    One thing you should know about Ball-X, is that they're not pure CVDs. One end is a dogbone. However I do like their design quite a bit, and should my MIPs ever break, I'll probably upgrade to Ball-X. The biggest problem, by far, with MIPs is pins popping out, no matter how many gallons of red thread locker you use on them.

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    But there are also no positive reviews about them. Can't find any review about them. What can be a problem, i think, are the brass retainers for the balls. Brass + sand + movement = massive wear.

    By the way, arent most of the axles not true CVD? Almost all have dogbones at the diff end. I will try the losi axles, they should be strong.

  13. #13
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    There are some reviews, they're just not easy to find All positive, no reports of breakage or any kind of damage.

    MIPs are true CVDs, very beefy and solid. And after I've heat shrunk the couplings, I've had no problems with pins falling out.

    To be honest, getting MIPs would be a far better choice than Ball-Xs. They're tough and well-designed, sold almost everywhere, and spares are easily found online.

    Spend the remaining money on HPP hexes and motor brace. They're both amazing upgrades for the ERBE, and Markus' service is second to none.

  14. #14
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    Post some links or pm them if you want(and can find them, if not don't bother), im very interested! Thanks.

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    the ball-x ones come with dust boots so i guess i wouldn't be too worried about dirt. i have heard others here saying that the MIPs are hit and miss lately at best. i guess a lot of this is all just user types and environments the car is being run in. thanks again for your opinions; I'll post pictures as soon as the roller gets here and as i go.
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  16. #16
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    Another question guys, would it be worth the hassle to install the 2nd gear in the transmission??
    also, wesley, did you get those links you were looking for?
    Last edited by kstageberg; 05-06-2013 at 08:40 AM.
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  17. #17
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    does any know the tooth count on that hitec servo?? the hs7950th... I'm looking for the servo horn but I'm given a few options
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    I don't think a second gear will add much in a e-revo. Maybe for a crawler, but not for bashing/racing. And its another thing that can break. The brushless motors used in the revo have almost instantaneous torque, so its not needed to have multiple gears to keep the engine in the optimal power band.

    Hitec would be 24 count.

  19. #19
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    I don't have any links at hand, but it was some weeks ago that I searched around for Ball-X reviews, and I remember finding a couple, all positive. Some here on Traxxas forums, and one or two on either RCGroups or RCTech. I can only reiterate my suggestion to get MIPs if money's no object, otherwise go for Summit shafts (although a full set of summit shafts will not be that much cheaper than a set of MIPs).

    Don't install any Traxxas transmission upgrades, be it 2 gear conversion, center diff or diff spool. None of them add anything positive to a bashing experience, otherwise everyone here would run them.

  20. #20
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    Yep did some searching too, found some "unboxing" and first test sessions etc but no in depth reviews. Still interested in them though, concept is great and so are the looks of them.

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    Got an email from TVR just now saying that a new, "revised" version of Ball-X is available, though I can't for the life of me see any differences on the site...

  22. #22
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    Hm, they look....

    ....exactly the same indeed..

    I mailed them a while ago about the new version, but they didnt reply. I also wonder if 50togo ever got his axles from tvr to review. It seems to be common in the RC world to not reply to questions, STRC also manages to not reply to any email or contact form

  23. #23
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    Got a reply from TVR about the changes:

    We are in the process of updating the website.

    The inner race is chrome plated for better smoothness and wear.

    The grooves on the outer race is precision grounded for smoothness.

  24. #24
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    I may just bite the bullet and buy them when I break the stock ones. They look solid as can be.
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    I actually have bit the bullet and purchased a full set of Ball-X. The last straw was yesterday when I decided to re-threadlock my MIP CVDs and ended up with a stripped grub screw stuck inside an outdrive hub. MIP CVDs are great, but there are just a few grub screws and pins too many in them to keep my mind at ease. Now I'll have to install a stock plastic axle if I want to drive my car.

    I'll do a full Ball-X review once they arrive, of course.

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    NICE! Finally! I'm looking forward to your review!

    I might buy them too, eventually, if i dont like lst2 axles.

  27. #27
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    Finally got the roller here! Now to start the parts ordering over the next couple months....






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    Oh, forgot something... If you're gonna be bashing a lot, have a look at T-Bone Racing skids. I've got the front one and liked it so much after several driving sessions that I've recently ordered myself a rear skid as well.

  29. #29
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    Second that! I have the rear skid and center cover and really like it. Rear protects the wing from wheelies and strengthens the back bulk. Center cover really helps with keeping all kinds of dirt away from the bottomside because its totally smooth. Also stiffens the chassis . I don't have the front because i dont like the looks, its too big, i might buy one and mod it a little so it looks better.

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    I think the front skid/bumper looks rather excellent! Official pictures don't do it justice, to be honest. I thought about getting a center skid as well, but after inspecting the center part of my chassis, I couldn't even find any scratches. Figured there wasn't any point to protect something that doesn't need protection.

  31. #31
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    So I need a slipper clutch, I didn't realize it at first. I keep seeing these double slippers, are they worth it? Are they harder to adjust or keep adjusted? I don't want one that will require constant tinkering and adjusting.. Also the spur gear, 55t, metal or plastic?? I hear the metal ones get too hot... Thoughts....
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    Ignis, please post a picture of the front skid/bumper mounted?

    Kstageberg,
    Yep, you need one . Some of us run the double slipper, i thought it was ok, and could withstand 6S somewhat better, but you will need to buy two sets of aluminum slipper pads too, if i recall correctly the HR slipper pads arent that good.
    Just take the plastic 54T spur, metal is noisy, and will wear out both the spur and the pinion if something isnt set correctly. Also, instead if the spur gear melting, you risk destroying the transmission when something is wrong. You can see the plastic spur as a safety part, that is easy to replace and cheap.

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    Don't have any photos with the wheels on, but here are some preliminaries I took between sessions:






    I run the Hot-Racing slipper with 6 CF pads myself, and I find it somewhat problematic. Carbon fiber pads are very slippy. Slippy to the point where you have to completely lock down the slipper nut in order to prevent slippage at acceleration. Perhaps this is what it's supposed to be like, but I would rather have some play in the slipper than lock it down completely.



    I'm not sure if it would be different with aluminium pads, or perhaps with the Robinson Racing slipper, but I can't say I like the way things work now.

    And yeah, plastic spurs all the way. Cheap as dirt to replace, quieter, and won't melt your tranny.

  34. #34
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    Thanks, makes me considering the front bumper again. Also noticed that you have the shockwears, like them? They are a little hard to find.

    I think aluminum slipper pads will help a little, they should be easier to break in. You might want to try to rough the carbon pads a little up with some sanding paper?

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    Love Outerwears! Not easy to install, but they do a great job of keeping the shocks clean.

    Not sure I can stand another round of taking half the rear of my car apart to get to the slipper. Easier to just take the gear cover off once every 10 minutes or so and then to let the slipper cool down.

  36. #36
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    Nice trucks, well done, like the slipper also.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ignis View Post
    Love Outerwears! Not easy to install, but they do a great job of keeping the shocks clean.

    Not sure I can stand another round of taking half the rear of my car apart to get to the slipper. Easier to just take the gear cover off once every 10 minutes or so and then to let the slipper cool down.
    Is it because of the HPP mount or the HR slipper that you need to take apart half of your rear? I can simply back off the motor, and remove the slipper nut to remove the slipper.

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    To remove the slipper I need to first remove the motor. To remove the motor I also need to first remove the HPP brace, which can't be done without also removing the TVR chassis brace, and the rear shocks for good measure. May not sound like much, but the last time I decided to poke into my slipper, the whole job took me over 3 hours.

  39. #39
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    O_o, i can imagine! All that for having a bulletproof truck(sort of..) How do you like the TVR brace? I'm thinking about getting it, it looks really beefy. Don't like the carbon fiber mount though, so i want to get a HPP mount too, and mount the brace to the motor mount.

  40. #40
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    CF works as well as anything for the mount. I had to dremel a small indent in the HPP brace to make room for the TVR brace mounting screw. Nothing drastic, just a ~2-3mm half-oval. Did the trick, and the brace works wonderfully to reinforce the rear of the car.

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