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Thread: shocks n stuff

  1. #1
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    shocks n stuff

    i bought a set of integy xsr2 shocks instead of reading reviews first. had a shopping spree at the local hobby store few months back. i share similar issues with them as others do also although i have read teflon taping the threads reduces leakage and blowout issues. also traxxas piston rings fit firmer in the chambers. i also noticed they dont come with foam inserts for the piggyback overflow.

    i cut up a open cell foam tire insert for the resevoir and notice a slight difference. does anyone know what material the foam is made of? or if there is something better like soft rubber or closed cell? has anyone attemped any of these mods? i see promise in the shock build but need some tweaking. thinking of it teflon tape is kinda quirky to apply to the small threads maybe plumbers doping seal would be better.

    ive had issues finding overall specs on shock dimensions but would prolines dual rate springs work on integy shacks or traxxas big bores? thinking of buying diffent springs like those dual rates for my integy.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    What do you want to do?

    It sounds like you have improved the integy shocks to run well on your slash. If you can document it, it can help others to do the same. Post up your results/fixes. Badly performing shocks suck. If you can rectify a misinformed purchase, do it. All is not lost.

    Have no experience with piggybacks or the baffles in them. I thought piggybacks were for landing the bigger jumps, but I see them on anything from crawlers to on road cars?
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  3. #3
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    I haven't owned anything integy but I here nothing but bad from their company, I'd invest in some proline powerstrokes but if you're more of a basher probably traxxas big bores which to me are better vs stocks but seems more of a durability upgrade rather than performance wise

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    He already spent money on shocks. He is making them work. Why spend 70$ on powerstrokes or 45 on big bores?
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  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Buying another set stinks,but with integrity sometimes you have no choice.
    I got stuck with the pro line trans and dumped another $100 to make it worth anything.
    Given a do over,I would have taken the $100 loss,It was the hr diff that saved me.
    If you can make it work ok.
    But sometimes it's just not worth it.
    I actually find it hard to understand how integrity stays in business.
    With their rep,they must per-val some where.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  6. #6
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    I think Integy must make all their money from newbie buyers. All of us vets say steer clear of them, yet I think most of us have broken Integy parts in our past. They seem to be the first to the market with upgrades for new models and seem to have fifteen variations of every part they make. I had a set of their shocks that were my last Integy parts still surviving. I had eight on my original Maxx six years ago. I had modded them to work on a Stampede for awhile, using four of them and the other four for spare parts. I used the teflon method and changed out the ends. No matter what, the threads would eventually strip out and when I got down to four, I used them droop style on a crawler. Eventually I still bent two shafts, even with them only partially full. I straightened the shafts and sold them with a roller on ebay. The only good thing they seem to make is hex drivers. I have been using the same set for six years, and have only had to replace two tips. I used them every day for two of those years managing a Hobbytown, so those are pretty good.

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    I clearly get ever post in many threads talk about how bad something is. I'm although the other half glass.I'm a tradesman and when things don't work we fix it. Just because vets say steer clear doesn't mean its not fixable. Remember half the hobby is mod and repair. Just looking for some helpful insite not a handy replacement. Does anyone know the OD of the pro line power stroke?

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    11/16" is what I'm getting at the top on the threads of the rear.
    Hope that helps..

    Wait make that 1/2" I read it wrong,this is what I got with my glasses.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 05-02-2013 at 04:57 PM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

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    Thx billy when I get home I'll cross measure. The dual rate spring is an awesome idea gives it a bit more progression on the spring side

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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    He already spent money on shocks. He is making them work. Why spend 70$ on powerstrokes or 45 on big bores?
    It all depends what he's going to do with the truck if he's bashing it's not a big deal but if he plans on racing it's a different story, he may be able to make em work and fix em but they're cheap as is and you could only make it good to a certain point but like I said it all depends what he wants to do with the truck

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    Nah I just started short course training. I won't be racing this year but I don't like bashing to much as its constant maintenance on my rc.I will be persuing a different setup when that time comes. I just see thread after thread piggies suck and I'm a lucky winner of a set. Yay me lol. I have big bores on my ride as piggies are right now an experiment idea. I'd just like to maybe tackle some issues and see if I can help some other "lucky winners" out there fix what they got instead of feeling jacked. Nothings impossible just improbable we'll see in time gives me something to research.

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    I don't know where you live but if your local track has novice class club racing that's a good start after you get the basics down, yea I like bashing but I got over it for now just strictly racing but racing comes with a lot of maintenance and tuning as well, but that's cool that your working on the shocks and getting them to perform better

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    Hopefully working better lol.

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    I have some integy piggybacks on my revo. Bought an all integy roller when i first started. Anyway, all my gear set in a storage room in Atlanta for about 3 years, until last December. Shocks were completely dry. Bought rebuild kit, and it didn't have all of the o-rings. Lowe's pluming section, had o-rings. A little thicker, but changed all, and they seem to be holding. I'll update in a few weeks. BTW the rebuild kit had foam in it. $6 for 2 shocks.

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    so an update on my piggy mod. so far i tried gas plumbers dope. the silicone oil dilutes the stuff and it just bleeds. not a good idea for anyone following this thread. i kept my springs with the integy black coils i think about 5lbs? not sure on the colours but medium tension. ill have to break em in but it looks as though the measurements line up with prolines powershocks dimensions. maybe a nice upgrade to them later. now the kicker. the repair kit for the msr4 integy shocks has the foam inserts for resorvoir and new orings that are double thick (better replacement than plumbers stuff) im using piston heads from stock traxxas shocks. they are creating a tighter fit for sure than stock integy ones. two hole in rear. now my test since i cant do any real shock rate test is im running this on my rears and stock integy on my front. i know wear and tear on front is more but i wanna see if fluid stays full in rear or leaks out. how many runs do you guys do before shock service? i want to run at least five 2s lipos on rough terrain before i check levels. any opinions

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    ^^^
    im using piston heads from stock traxxas shocks. they are creating a tighter fit for sure than stock integy ones.
    Were the original piston heads too loose? Did you have to shave the traxxas pistons at all? no binding right?
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    No rags no binding at all and no sanding or shaving. The stock integy piston head half extended out had play not much but a little wiggle room. The traxxas heads nice and snug. Holes look about the same diameter on both heads so flow rate are the same minus the wiggle room loss off pressure

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    High quality shocks are a proformance and durability upgrade over stock. Shocks should at the very least have aluminium body and cap as standard(I'm ok with a strong plastic cap that doesn't pop off too) and a metal motor plate/mount and not plastic. I'm ok with everything else. As for integy I cannot comment on quality. I have had their brush motors and motor lathe which are excellent. I never bought any aluminium parts from them or other manufactures(except traxxas emaxx bulkheads) as I feel aluminium is more from bling then work. A few parts can be upgraded to aluminium but plastic has always held up to me with everything. Good luck on the shocks and if you do find yourself having issues beyond repair I recommend traxxas big bores and get the associated t4 spring kit.
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  19. #19
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    Well after 5 good runs on bumpy surface my fluid has stayed at top levels. No leaks with msr4 rebuild kit. It has oversized o rings. If changes occur I'll repost

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