Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: MIP 360 Stinger

  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373

    MIP 360 Stinger

    I have an issue with my Stinger pipe... The shock tower. It fits, but I have my body lowered and the new tower isn't as low as my stock tower. Any alternatives?? I guess I can chop the shock tower and drill holes for my rustler body mounts. Or does someone know of a different shock tower I can get?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    So the new, MIP tower sits taller than stock? I don't remember that from back in the day...
    Learn by doing

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. NStampede Freak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Catskill mountains, NY
    Posts
    3,012
    What he is saying that the MIP shock tower is at a fixed hight and cannot be adjusted. He has lowered his body and cannot adjust his MIP tower to fit.

    I am not sure what I would do there....
    N Stampede 2.5R
    E Stampede VXL
    Tmaxx 2.5

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373
    I put it all together last night... I think I am going to take the tower back off and chop the fixed body mount off. Then get a set of rpm t-maxx rear mounts to use. These mounts have all holes so I can drill a hole in the tower to attach it. With these mounts I will have several choices for body height. All I may have to do is drill new holes in the body.

    When I was mounting the shocks, I noticed they don't sit right. The stock tower had posts that the shoulder screws went into so the screws didn't go all the way in. So I cut some fuel tube to use as a spacer. Did anyone else run into this issue? I will post pictures later this afternoon so you can see what I'm talking about.

    here's some pictures of my stinger pipe set up. so far, i installed everything, i just haven't zip tied the pipe yet, or inserted the exhaust tube. i just wanted to show my progress and ask a few questions.







    if you'll notice the body mounts on the shock tower. they are at a fixed height (stock height). i was using different mounts, and had them on the lowest screw to drop the body. i'm thinking about cutting these posts off, and using a set of rpm #80162 t-maxx mounts. with these, i can set the body height to whatever i want. below is a picture... do you think they'll be ok to use? i plan on drilling the screw hole in the tower and then picking the correct hole to set the height where i want it. and should i use 1 screw or 2 to attach them to the tower?



    my next question is about the shocks. the factory shock tower has built in spacers that set the top of the shock body off the tower. this mip tower is completely flat and when i put the shocks on, they didn't sit right. so i cut some fuel tube to use as a spacer. how did other mip users approach this issue? do you think this will be strong enough and hold up when landing jumps? if so great, if not what should i do. here is a picture so you can see what i'm talking about.



    any advice on how you installed your mip setup please let me know. and show pics if possible. thanks
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-14-2010 at 04:15 PM. Reason: merge

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    west palm beach FL
    Posts
    1,205
    well if you feel daring enough you can cut a new tower from g10 fiberglass from tower hobbies. bdw i love the mip stinger, had them on my old rc10gt's and my current nitro hawk, they rock \,,\.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXA272&P=ML

    they sell little offsets for the towers since traxxas used to use fiberglass towers, heres a pic of my trx-10 with an incorrect black one

    http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/DSCN0161.jpg

    traxxas used to sell aluminum ones, ive got them on my srt. you can still find them on ebay sometimes. but here are the plastic versions, the washers and step washers are the parts the pistons are not involved. the plastic are part #2669, the aluminum ones are #1743 (buy traxxas.com still has them so i might jump on them myself )

    plastic ones: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG96&P=7

    Edited for image size. Please keep all images at or below 640 x 480 pixels. -cooleo
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-14-2010 at 04:14 PM.
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373
    my lhs didn't have any parts i need. i dug through the clearnance bin and found a pair of duratrax body mounts similar to the rpm i wanted, so i got them, and i will just proceed as planned; trim them, and drill new holes in the tower for them. as for the shocks, i went to lowes and they have a ton of "specialty" washer made of nylon and metal. i'm about to go back and take my shock and size it up and get some hardware from there. this way i can work on it tonight and not have to wait for an order from tower to come in. as i work i will continue to post pics.

    i got some nylon spacers that i trimmed up along with some 4-40 screws and nuts and got the shocks bolted it on properly. i was thinking i would trim the shock tower and drill new holes for the new body mounts, but after seeing it in it's current state, that's unnecessary. i am going to go back to lowes tomorrow and get some longer screws and use attach the body mounts to the screws i used on the shocks, just on the back side of the tower. i took some pics of today's progress but i'll wait and post all my pics at once.

    before i cut the shock tower tommorow, i just want to verify i can chop it with a hack saw? i'm only cutting 2 corners off, so i don't need 100% perfect, but at the same time i want to half way look neat and professional.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-14-2010 at 04:15 PM. Reason: merge

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,054
    I hope that this isn't too late, but i WOULD NOT chop that tower at all. I have the FLM and the stock shock towers on my rustys and it's a pain finding bodies that have such a sharp dip in the middle to secure the tower and body. Your current posts will allow you to use bodies that are flat on the back or even curved under. I'de take it to your LHS and find a body that is flat on the back and see what I mean. I'de much rather go that route than hacking up the tower and mounting some body posts.
    Again, thats just my $.02 and personal experience. Possibly brain food?
    Learn by doing

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373
    I don't fully understand what you mean. But I googles FLM and I don't really want the aluminum parts. I only plan on cutting the two "peaks" for body mounts on the top two corners. To me, it seems like a fairly easy job since it's just two small cuts. I really like the look of the lower body on my pede and don't want to lose it

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    west palm beach FL
    Posts
    1,205
    also there are a few bodies that have a deep center between the rear, rc10gt2 and t4 bodies both have a lower dip in the rear.

    also like i said push comes to shove since you cant get the tower anymore to make a trace of it for safe keeping and iff it breaks you can cut a new one out of carbon fiber, g10, or whatever material your most comfortable using and works best for you.

    if you think itll work better shapped the way you want go for it
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373
    so this is what i did... i chopped the 2 corners off as planned and used new body mounts. it's all back together and ready to fire up later this evening. however, i am unsure i want to use the blue exhaust deflector. i know what it's for, but now that it's on i don't know if it want it. we'll see. and now that i am looking at it and comparing these mounts to the stock traxxas mounts, these mounts are thick. i'll have to drill a bigger hole in the body. so i may order the rmp mounts since they are smaller. but that's an easy swap, the hardest part was getting it all together.









    hopefully later i will be posting the final "test" results.

  11. #11
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    203
    Cool, good job! That blue deflector does look weird though!

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373
    i agree. i'll probably take it off. it rained on me yesterday evening, so i haven't fired it up yet. hopefully i can today.

    I took the exhaust deflector off. I also got to run about 1/3 of a tank through it and it rocks. It added a lot of sound, which is what I wanted. Plus it appears to have added some torque. I reset the needles to factory and still need to properly retune it, today was just a test run. I got scared at first because it wouldnt start. But it was just a low battery in the starter wand. I changed it and it fired right up.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-14-2010 at 04:15 PM. Reason: merge

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    west palm beach FL
    Posts
    1,205
    isnt the stinger freakin sweet!!! i love them. one of those things that should never have been discontinued
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373
    Yes it is! Im glad I got it. I can't wait to fine tune it. Any tuning tips for the pro .15 and stinger?

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    west palm beach FL
    Posts
    1,205
    i run a bit leaner than factory on the high speed for racing but when im bashing i have it at about 2 and a 3/4th out on the high speed
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373
    cool. i didn't see a lot of unused nitro on the back of the wheelie bar... what about LSN. i noticed it idled a lot "faster" than it did before.

  17. #17
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    west palm beach FL
    Posts
    1,205
    well i like to idle high since im running oval (im only slowing down like maybe half a seconed max) and idk where my lsn is, my original trx12 carb was on its last legs so i simply swapped in a used seconed hand trx 15 carb on the fly while at the track and the lsn is perfect the way it is
    FieroMan121|SPC LiPo powered|Vintage TRX collector

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Angleton, Tx
    Posts
    373
    I guess I may lean out the lsn just a little bit, and see how it reacts. When I pinched the fuel line to stop the engine, it took about 4-5 sec to shut off. The rmp's reeved up before it shut off like it should, so I think the idle gap is ok

  19. #19
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    105
    I would like to know if this MIP exhaust kit is still available, and where i could pick one up ?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •