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  1. #1
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    Slash rear arm mod

    Was just curious, anyone here running the slash rear arm mod on their Pedes? I think I'm going to go ahead and do it to both of mine, and probably my rustler as well.

    I run protrac suspension on my slash but don't really care for the short wheelbase widetracked look on Pedes. The slash rear arm mod will allow me to run front wheels on all 4 corners so I can rotate my tires, but keep the stock width I prefer. It also provides some much needed rear toe.

    Since I have 3 trucks to do it will save me quite a bit of money over the protrac route as well.

    Wondered if anyone was running this setup. Thought it might be of some interest to newer pede owners here. It's not my mod. I know Pave and some other guys were running this a couple of years ago as a cheap and very effective mod. To clarify, it does not add width to the truck (which is actually why I like it).

    IIRC you just need stock or RPM rear sl2sh arms & rear sl2sh links (or equivalent) and 4 front wheels.

    In my case I already had the stuff to do at least 1 truck so it was quite a savings over 3 protrac kits. Of course if you want your truck to be wider, this mod isn't for you.

  2. #2
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    I not running the slash rear arm mod but I'm running the Jang Wide mod. This makes the front end as wide as the rear end and gives more stability. You have to put the rear tires on the front and the front tires on the rear to make the tires width the same.
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  3. #3
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    Wide mods do provide more stability, I just don't care for the look of a wide truck with a short wheelbase. The slash rear arm mod is just for being able to run the same wheels F&R and adding toe-in to the rear. Nothing wrong with a wide mod if you like that look. I think if you want to wide mod it's hard to beat the protrac, but again, not what I wanted.

  4. #4
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    I did the mod just to see what it would do to my stampede. I decided if I liked it it can stay, if not then I would switch back to normal. I ended up liking it so it stayed. My write up in case your curious.

    I don't want a real wide truck with a short wheel base, like you stated before. I just wanted to try something new and that's what I did. In the future I may lengthen it just for kicks, not sure yet. Then if I lengthen it, it of course has to go wider..

    I don't need to have rear-toe-in just because I don't get that complex with a pede.

    I just bash and try to have fun!!!
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  5. #5
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    I think you might have missed the point of my post, but as long as your having fun that's the important thing.

    And don't let rear toe-in scare you, it's not that "complex". It's just a side benefit of using the slash rear arms. It will help your straight line stability which anyone can benefit from.

    As far as the wide mod, I've done it several Pedes ago and that's how I know I don't care for it. That predates the protrac kit which would be the best way to do that now IMO, even just using the front arms would be better, but again, as said in my original post, not what I'm talking about.

  6. #6
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    I understand your point, your wondering if anyone has/is running the slash rear arms, also you don't care for wider looking pedestrian with short wheelbase.

    I probably could jus turn the toe in since I have adjustable links. How far would that be degree wise?

    Also I don't really have the $$$ for the protrac kit.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithrowstones View Post
    I understand your point, your wondering if anyone has/is running the slash rear arms, also you don't care for wider looking pedestrian with short wheelbase
    That's suppose to be pede, not a wide pedestrian.. Gotta love auto-correct..
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  8. #8
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    The links do the camber and the steering links do the front toe so neither of those do the rear toe. Yep I know all too well the joys of auto-correct lol !

  9. #9
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    Yeah the protrac is pricey especially if you need to do multiple trucks. You can just do the front protrac arms though and that's not too bad.

  10. #10
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    I thought you were talking about the rear-toe-in angle, sorry.

    I don't think front tires turned in would be a good thing to have for bashing would it?
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  11. #11
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    Yes, I was talking about rear toe-in.

    I run like 1 degree front toe in via eyeball gauge

  12. #12
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    Oh man the old eyeball gauge, gotta love it!!
    I have an rpm camber gauge, but that won't help with the toe.. Lol

    I'm not sure what I run.. I will check sometime..
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  13. #13
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    Yeah I got a deal on the eyeball gauge. 2 for 1, get it?

  14. #14
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    Yeah I got it. Actually made me chuckle.. Hehe..

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    I'm looking for the rear toe in to help me in 2 particular situations. Whether it does or how much ill let you know but:

    1.) I have a narrow ten-eighty ramp about 18" or so wide and I'm hoping the straight line stability will help me get lined up better.

    2.) a couple of spots that I run have a loose sandy dirt over a hard packed dirt layer underneith. It's hard to put the power down without the rear of the truck fish tailing and thinking this might help.

    Either way I mainly wanted a cheap/easy way to retain the stock width and be able to rotate my tires. The rear arms providing toe-in is just a nice bonus. Ill let you know how effective it is. I do know Pave commented in a post from a couple years ago that it made a tremendous difference in handling.

  16. #16
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    1) The best way to line up the ramp is to stand directly behind a little ways away or in front of the ramp. If your off to one side it's harder to line up perfectly. You can also get/make another ramp the same size and out it next to the ramps for a wider launching pad.

    2) Running a 2WD truck on loose dirt is like putting ice skates on a car, you won't have much control when giving full power. You could broom the area off(depending on size) or get a leaf blower and blow it off. You won't be able to go in a straight line on a dusty surface. Dusty surfaces are meant for doing fishtails, doughnuts and drifting!!

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  17. #17
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    Yeah I stand behind the ramp most of the time. I really like the ramp I'd like to pick another one up sometime.

    The particular spot I'm talking about is really huge, too large to prep it and it is exactly like driving on ice. It's a fun spot though.

  18. #18
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    So it's basically a spot to wear down the tires so you have an excuse to upgrade to better ones?
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  19. #19
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    Yeah most of my spots are tire killers. Lol I run a lot of pavement here. I have some dirt spots but not as many as Id like.

  20. #20
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    I don't run a lot of pavement. I usually run in this dirt corner that is great for getting dusty, grass, and on my fails attempt at a track. I still have stock talons from like 4 years ago. Lol
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  21. #21
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    The talons last forever even on pavement. I have one set that has almost 150 pavement runs in them. They are smooth as glass. Once they use up their tread life on dirt & grass they are still great pavement tires. They don't have as much grip as better tires but that's actually a good thing on pavement with a Pede. Instead of traction rolling, these will slide before they do that.

    I like to keep a set just for driving on pavement vs using up more expensive tires made for offroad. The talons aren't a great offroad tire though, especially with brushless power.

  22. #22
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    I am purposely trying to run down my tires just so I can get a set of trenchers... Oh how I long for a set of trenchers on desperadoes... The area around the rim is starting to come unglued and the foam inside is all out of whack...I only have one set of tires. The more my tires spin, the happier I am..
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  23. #23
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    Yeah mine weren't glued very well from the factory. I've had to spot glue all 4 of them on both my current Pedes, mostly on the outsides of the wheels. I've had the foams get bunched up too but was able to massage it out.

    The Trenchers are very nice. I like the new 2.8 mashers as well.

  24. #24
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    My glue came undone last year.. Nothing to worry about though.

    My foam isn't bunching up, just becoming thin from the water that stays in there. If I massaged my tire, I'd end up with chocolate milk..
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  25. #25
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    Dont underestimate the benefits of a few degrees of toe in on a stampede. I run in parking lots that are very similar to what you guys are describing. Pavement with a layer of loose sand on top. Ive run dozens of cars and trucks out there, most 2X4's and the ones with toe in ALWAYS handle WORLDS better than the ones with no toe in.

    The truth of the matter is that it simply doesnt matter. Because if you do choose to go with a slash rear arm setup, your going to get the toe in by default. There arent any slash rear arms that I know of that dont have it. Even on a short stampede that is overpowered and out of control most of the time, the toe in makes it track straighter. Especially in the above described conditions.

    The slash rear arm mod is an excellent way to gain the ability to run 4 of the same wheels all the way around. I agree that there are some situations in which a stock width pede is just better. Maybe its because the rest of the truck is mostly stock, maybe you just like the look or feel of the more narrow track width... maybe you just dont have alot of $$ and want to be able to rotate your tires. Whatever the reason, the slash rear arm mod is definitly the CHEAPEST way to get what your looking for.

    IF you want more width or have a bit more money, protrac on the front is a good choice. But you dont get the benefit of the toe in on the rear and, believe it or not, id take the toe in VS the width of the protrac up front. It makes that much of a difference IMO. Keep in mind, if you do the protrack on the front you need the arms, camber links and steering links... your price is almost double that of a slash arms on the rear mod.

    IMO this is one of the most underrated upgrades you can do to a stampede and I honestly cant not figure why traxxas doesnt just make all their 2X4's with these arms right from the factory. It would be so much easier to just have the one part number and to only need one wheel offset. But, until then, for about $10, you can get what your looking for (not including the wheels).
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    The slash rear arm mod is an excellent way to gain the ability to run 4 of the same wheels all the way around. I agree that there are some situations in which a stock width pede is just better. Maybe its because the rest of the truck is mostly stock, maybe you just like the look or feel of the more narrow track width... maybe you just dont have alot of $$ and want to be able to rotate your tires. Whatever the reason, the slash rear arm mod is definitly the CHEAPEST way to get what you're looking for
    Exactly. I thought maybe posting this would help someone that wasnt aware of it. Unfortunately up to this point it has not. Oh well... LoL

    Pave, were you the first to do this? I know you were where I originally learned about it. For the money I don't see any other mod giving you this much bang for the buck. I know someone had even said using the short rod ends like come on the steering would give you enough range of adjustment to have the proper camber angle and then you can even use the stock rear links. So for 2 short rod ends a ridiculously cheaply aquired pair of rear slash arms you are good to go other than the wheels which a lot of people would have anyway.

    And the reason for me posting this was certainly not to compare it to any widemod like the protrac or jang and like I said in post 1, if you want your truck widened this mod isn't for you.

    I personally do not like the look of a widened stampede with the stock wheelbase at all, but that's just me. I've never liked that look. Back in the mid/late 90's we use to make clod-O-pedes with those big tires and again they were much wider than they were long and I just don't care for that look.

    Performance wise I guess if you have a stretched chassis and protrac suspension that's about as good as it gets but you do lose a lot of the pede charm at that point as far as how it drives. Nothing wrong with that if that's what someone wants, it's just not for me. I kinda like the kooky driving experience a stocker pede gives you and I'd rather use a slash MT if I was concerned strictly about performance, or something else all together.
    Last edited by mepster; 04-28-2013 at 02:17 PM.

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    I dont want to say I was the first... but maybe. At the time, the slash had JUST come out and I know when I did it, it wasnt because I had heard of anyone else doing it. But I cant claim to be the first. Maybe someone else somewhere had done it before me.

    Either way, I think buying a set of links from a chop shop on ebay may even be cheaper than buying just the short rod ends... not sure. I think it would be worth keeping the long rod ends though, they are way stronger than the short ones. Glad you brought this back up though. There are alot of new guys here now and this is a good, cheap way to improve your stampede on a budget.
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  28. #28
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    Yeah I agree I'd want the long ends too, just saying its as cheap of a mod as someone wants it to be. I'm probably going to use RPM arms on mine, but the stock arms Ive seen for $4 on eBay. I think you were the first who posted about it, then the protrac craze hit and it got lost in that. It's a great mod I'm glad you posted it way back when or I wouldn't have known about it.

  29. #29
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    Ok guys I did the rear slash arm mod on one of my Pedes tonight and everything went great. I was worried the track (width) would be different front and rear but its so equal if its not exactly the same, I couldn't tell you which ends wider! Both my wife and I were looking at it and it seems like an optical illusion where whatever end is closest to you looks slightly wider but from above and when measured it looks to be equal track front and rear. Whatever amount the slash arms are shorter is equalled back out by using the "front" wheels on all 4 corners.

    So now I have gained 3 degrees rear toe-in for better handling and I am now running the same wheels and tires on all 4 corners so I can rotate them and increase tire life as well as share them with more RCs. I also maintained the stock width which is exactly what I wanted to do. Cost $0.00 as I had the arms and turnbuckles laying around from a slash I protrac'd, and had an extra pair of front wheels/tires. I'm going to take it out tomorrow and see how the new toe-in helps on dirt and pavement. I have a lot of runs on this truck with these tires at those spots so I should be able to tell.

    Thanks go out to Pave who was the first I ever saw or heard of this mod. Awesome mod buddy!

  30. #30
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    Glad to hear you got it done! Post some pics of this optical illusio....
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  31. #31
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    Thanks. A picture won't show the "illusion".

    Basically since the stampede and slash use the same front arms, once you do this slash rear arm mod the stampede has the same track width front and rear as a stock slash 2wd.

    With that said, if you've ever had a slash you know that although they use different offset front and rear wheels they are very similar. IIRC they are 2mm different offset between front and rear slash wheels. It is so close that many people have run 4 rears all the way around sl4sh style (slash 2wd rear wheels same as 4x4 F & R wheels) on the sl2sh. Or even better if they aren't having to meet race rules, fronts on all 4 corners which will give you a wider setup.

    The reason you can visually see a small difference using the same offset wheels on a sl2sh is the full fendered body. In the case of the stampede being essentially an open wheel setup, it's incredibly hard to tell there is any difference at all by looking at it even as viewed by above with the truck on the ground.

    So to sum it up, doing the slash rear arm mod on a stampede and using 4 front wheels you are going to be very hard pressed to measure any difference in front and rear track and visually speaking, forget about it no matter how hard you squint. It really came out nice.

    If pede wheel offset were identicle to sl2sh wheel offset then its 4mm wider in the rear which leads me to believe the sl2sh and stampede wheels might have slightly different offsets. The stampede now is somewhere between 0-4mm wider than the front but it looks to be closer to zero.

  32. #32
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    Got to run a couple packs through the new setup today and without a doubt the rear end was less squirrelly. To what degree it's hard to say because after a couple days of rain the dirt surface had changed considerably. On pavement while I was on-power it seemed to track straighter maybe it was placebo but it seemed clearly improved.

    Still I'm most happy with the ability to rotate the tires and now my Pedes/rustler/slash MT/and future pede 4x4 will all be able to share wheels/tires at will.

    Without a doubt the best low-cost mod I've personally ever done to the TRX 2WDs.

  33. #33
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    Nice work, mepster.

    It's great to hear about these 'old' mods still being put to good use. I actually gave an old set of protrac rear arms to my bro who still has stock offsets front and rear. I'm hoping he gets the performance benefit out of the deal like you did.

  34. #34
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    Thanks Oaks, I took the P2DE back out today and it did really well. I'm going to do the mod on my other Pede and my new Rustler build too. My slash has the Protrac setup already.

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