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  1. #1
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    Smile Hub / Hex Slop elimination 17mm techniques - FAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by pavmentsurfer View Post
    There was a thread about this idea a while ago but I haven't yet seen anyone actually do it. My ERBE had some slop in the hexs so I figured since I had a spare set I might as well try cutting them down and seeing if it works. Heres what I did.

    I cut the threads off the stock 17mm adapters leaving only the hex. I used a battery powered sawzall and the cut was actually pretty good. Pretty clean. Heres a pic of a newish set of hexs on the left and my cut hexs on the right:


    The next step is to use some sort of cone file (or in my case a cone bit on a dremel) to clean up the cut end of the axle hole. If there are ANY burrs the hexs wont slide back over the stock axles. I learned this the hard way:


    Then, of course, re-install the hex using the stock screw pin. Nothing special about this except the threaded end of the adapter is missing:


    Lastly, install your wheels (with this mod you can use standard 17mm wheels OR traxxas style 17mm wheels) using the nut from the HPI 17mm hex set:


    The results of this mod is nearly ZERO slop. After the install is done any looseness in the adapters is gone and the wheel is tight on the axle. Total cost, about $10 for the HPI 17mm hexs and nuts but you could probably get JUST the nuts for less if you look around online. Total time for mod, about 20 minutes with some good power tools.

    There are lots of other options out there. But since anyone wanting these type of results likely already has a worn out set of stock 17mm adapters you might as well try it. You have nothing to loose.



    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    I much prefer an elegant insertion of a stainless steel helicoil to

    hacking up a part that is 99 & 44/100 good. It takes a bit more work, but you are left with

    an essentially unchanged Traxxas part.
    Quote Originally Posted by BRICK57 View Post
    Can you elaborate on the Stainless steel heilicoil. did you insert it or did you buy it that way.
    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    I think first I'd like to say that there is definitely a place for pav's method. It is cheap, effective, and relatively easy. There is NOTHING wrong with it, but we're all allowed to have our preferences.
    I made the one in the video and a few others like it. The hubs were wobbly enough that the axle threads had cut into the outer part of the axle hole, even though they are not supposed to touch.
    I used a drill press and a home-made jig to drill the center holes to 13/64", which is the correct size for installing M5 helicoils or permacoils (same thing.) The drilling takes off a very small amount of aluminum. You then need an M5 helicoil/permacoil tap to cut threads in the aluminum hub. I did this by hand. You then need the M5 coil installation tool to screw in the stainless steel coil (I used a 7.5mm length) and a small punch to knock off the coil's tang. Screw the hub with coil onto the axle and insert the stock grub pin because now you're done.
    Now here's a BIG "However":
    It is possible but not likely that the grub hole in the hub will not line up well enough with the hole in the axle for the pin to go through. There is no control for this with the limited tooling I possess. I will say this though: if a hub will not work on a particular axle, in my experience it will always work on one of the other three.
    There you go: more than you wanted or needed to know.

    just some FAQ fodder
    MAN, Use Common Sense
    Funky Gecko, SumVee HDE

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Nice FAQ. Hey, you forgot my thread on fixing the hex slop!
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klimpen717 View Post
    As you all know the new Revo and T-Maxx with 17mm hex do get some wobble on the wheels after some time.
    English isn't my native language so I'm not sure it's called wobble. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
    I had the same wobble and it got to me. First I didn't care but after a while it got worse.
    I started to think about a solution and came up with this.
    The text under every picture explains more (click image for high res).



    This is what you start with. All stock axle and hex.
    You can even see the marks inside the hex from the threads from the axle.
    They are NOT supposed to be there and makes the wobble worse.



    And this is how it looks on the car before modding it.
    There is a little play between the axle and the hex making the wheel wobble.



    This is what I have made.
    It's a piece of pipe (metal) that I have threaded inside
    and the grinded down to 6 mm outer diameter.



    These are the different pieces I have used.
    All stock parts except the pipe with threads.



    Another angle of the same pieces
    Here you see that I have drilled the hex with a 6 mm drill
    so it will fit over the new larger end on the axle.
    It is VERY important to drill the hole FIRST and then grind the pipe
    Try it on and grind more if it doesn't fit.



    Either use a large plier or some loctite to make the pipe stay on the axle.
    You wouldn't want to lose it in a pile of sand somewhere.



    This is the final product and how it looks.
    The point is to make you sweat when you put the hexes on.
    Twist and push and use some lubrication.
    The harder it is to get it on the better the fit is.


    I hope this can inspire some of you to do the same. It really works beyond what i imagined.
    There is absolutely no play between the axle and the hex anymore.


    Quote Originally Posted by Atomicpunk View Post
    Thanks for the pics and great solution to an annoying problem ukrsonic. I just did the mod last night, and it seems to be a solid fix.







    more information
    MAN, Use Common Sense
    Funky Gecko, SumVee HDE

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfslash16 View Post
    Nice FAQ. Hey, you forgot my thread on fixing the hex slop!

    drop a link in this thread
    MAN, Use Common Sense
    Funky Gecko, SumVee HDE

  5. #5
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    I did the modification shown in post #3. It does not last long in ERBE-ville.
    Alt-241 on the number pad =

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Ok, I'll post the link when I get home. I don't know how to post links from my phone.

    EDIT: Here's the link. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...Wheel-Hex-Slop...
    Last edited by Wolfslash16; 04-24-2013 at 03:52 PM.
    Sl2sh Slayer Summit Sl4sh 1/18 Rally/Teton T-Maxx

  7. #7
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    Noir, great idea on pooling everyone’s solution in one place; especially for an issue that most everyone will deal with at some point and time.

    I don’t know if this qualifies but the solution I went with (but did not come cheap) was the HPP hexes. I run these on my erbe on 2s and have had zero trouble.

    I’m running Proline 23mm on my Summit, and when my son’s Summit starts to show wear I will be referring to this thread.
    SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3

  8. #8
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    I run proline 23mm also - so far I have had virtually no slop . But I slow crawl more than fast bash
    MAN, Use Common Sense
    Funky Gecko, SumVee HDE

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