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  1. #1
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    SLayer Nitro help for a frustrated new to the hobby guy

    Hi, I am brand new to nitro or any R/C for that matter.
    I cant get my Slayer to tune correctly. Ive read just about every forum post and web site for anything from Redcat to Traxxas. I dont understand the lingo used to describe the needles, and I have a few questions I hope can be answered.
    1/ What way should the vehicle face when tuning? Front facing right or left? When opening or closing the needles wouldnt it make a difference?
    2/ The truck is broken in, was shifitng into second. I let a friend of mine tune it for me and lost 2nd and its running horribly. From factory where should the grub screw in the tranny be set? What size tool is used to rotate it? I've used 1.5 and 2, nothing seems to be getting into the screw. At what point is correct for the 2nd gear to kick in?
    3/ I had a runaway truck. Throttle set all the way open..the TQI failsafe did not work. I wanted to add a Redcat failsafe but can not get it to work. I have a throttle return spring in place as i have changed all the boxes for the electronics over to Revo style. Can I use an aftermarket failsafe with the TQI?
    4/ General tuning question. Does everyone set back to factory after they run the vehicle? Or do you start where you left off? I cant believe these trucks are this complicated to use...I am guessing im over thinking it.
    From videos I cant seem to pinpoint correct idle speed. I hear it run fast and one guy says its rich, another says its lean.
    Sorry for the mouthfull here, I just cant get the truck to run and I would love to play with it. I have always wanted one...i'm glad I have it but now I want to play with it.
    Thanks again for any help. Matt
    If it dont work, kick it as hard as you can.

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpylak View Post
    1/ What way should the vehicle face when tuning? Front facing right or left? When opening or closing the needles wouldnt it make a difference?
    No, it doesn't make a difference. For the high side needle, you are looking down at it and for the low side, you are looking at it from only one side anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrpylak View Post
    2/ The truck is broken in, was shifitng into second. I let a friend of mine tune it for me and lost 2nd and its running horribly. From factory where should the grub screw in the tranny be set? What size tool is used to rotate it? I've used 1.5 and 2, nothing seems to be getting into the screw. At what point is correct for the 2nd gear to kick in?
    The sift point is set in the factory using a bench check and is RPM sensitive, from all I have read, ther is no real way to set back to factory spec. I'm not positive but I think it is either 1.5 or 2mm allen key size. Look in the manual (if you don't have one you can download it from the Traxxas site for specific info on setting the shift point. Basically adjust it to where it works bes for you. When adjusting anything related to RC, alays go in small 1/8 or less adjustments.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrpylak View Post
    3/ I had a runaway truck. Throttle set all the way open..the TQI failsafe did not work. I wanted to add a Redcat failsafe but can not get it to work. I have a throttle return spring in place as i have changed all the boxes for the electronics over to Revo style. Can I use an aftermarket failsafe with the TQI??
    You can use an aftermarket failsafe, but almost all fail safes rely on the reciever battery pack. If the Rx pack looses power, which sounds like what happened in your case, a failsafe is not gonna help.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrpylak View Post
    4/ General tuning question. Does everyone set back to factory after they run the vehicle? Or do you start where you left off?
    Start where you left off. Once you get it tuned properly you shouldn't need to adjust it much. There is no reason to go back to factory setting everytime. Now, if your tune is way out of wack, then going back to factory settings for a base line reference is a great idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrpylak View Post
    I cant believe these trucks are this complicated to use...I am guessing im over thinking it.
    From videos I cant seem to pinpoint correct idle speed. I hear it run fast and one guy says its rich, another says its lean.
    Sorry for the mouthfull here, I just cant get the truck to run and I would love to play with it. I have always wanted one...i'm glad I have it but now I want to play with it.
    Thanks again for any help. Matt
    Nitro can be complicated, and it doesn't help if you are learning on your own. Just be patient and follow a couple simple rules.
    - Read the manual
    - only make on adjustment at a time then drive it to see if it helped
    - always make small adjustments
    - never kick or throw your radio/truck out of frustration!

  3. #3
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    When tuning it does not matter what position you are in, to lean it the screw needs to be tightened or clockwise. Richening the mixture is counter clockwise. Start back at factory (4 HSN, 1.75 LSN and idle gap of 0.7-1.0mm open) and use small turns. Start the engine, warm it up for about 3/4 of a tank or so and then tune so that you have a good tune at half tank and it is not too lean when the tank is low. Depending on the weather the tune may not change much from day to day but still it is best to tune. Take a gallon of fuel, go to an empty parking lot and work the needles so you can see/hear the changes in the engine as you tune it. At idle when the engine runs high and the truck wants to move it is lean. Rich will have a low idle and when you punch the throttle you'll get a puff of smoke.
    Shifting is dependent on the tune, if it is too rich you'll spend all your time in first gear. Too lean and the engine will hang and many times the tranny won't be able to shift out of second. Factory is 6-6.5 turns out from all the way in.
    Aftermarket fail safes WILL NOT work with the Traxxas 2.4ghz radios. They already have an internal failsafe to put the throttle back to neutral so make sure your batteries have a decent charge.
    The Super Derecho

  4. #4
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    About 2nd gear, the screw should be aprox. flush. Again, there's not a really a factory preset on that one. But be careful not to turn it out too much!
    http://youtube.com/adolfss0n

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. fallonguy's Avatar
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    You should go back to the factory settings
    Factory Carburetor Settings
    The transmission will shift into 2nd when it reaches a certain RPM the most common reason it doesn't shift is because of improper tune.
    You should watch the DVD and read the manual also you can look on you tube for videos to help with tuning What you need to understand is it doesn't take much of a turn on the screws to make a big adjustment on the engine so make very small adjustments no bigger then 1/8 of a turn.
    I wanted to put a really cool signature but I ran

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the replys. I still cant get it right. I have pages of hand written notes on how and when and why to turn a needle. Nothing seems to be working. I was told by Traxxas that I have an air leak. (as at idle the engine rpms were up for a second and then down. No stable idle) I sealed the carb and exaust and noticed the small orange o-ring inside the engine under the carb was shredded a bit. Could this be a heat issue? Can i replace these with thicker automotove grade 0-rings? They look like a/c o-rings that can handle the heat and oil...I have more money into this than I ever wanted. It seems every time I start it up I have to open my wallet. Everyone seems to give me "this is the nature of the hobby" line but I dont buy it. Kids are starting their trucks up and running them all day without issue. Maybe I dont want to admit I dont have the brain power for Nitro?
    If it dont work, kick it as hard as you can.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Nitro is a difficult learning curve. I was more used to gas 2 cycles and thought well I have the basic idea going here but wasn't aware of how minute the adjustments would be and how they made such a big impact on how it ran. I couldn't get it tune well either. I let my father mess with it (he's had alot of experience running larger 2 cycle engines on methanol) so I gave him the screw driver and he had it spot on in like 2 minutes It is hard to learn what to listen for (which is most of it besides looking for smoke) without someone knowledgeable right next to you showing you. Can learning it be done on your own? Of course but it's a whole lot harder.

    Here's a few things to look and listen for.
    RPM's hanging after letting off full throttle (sounds like chewbacca from star wars) Lean LSN
    High temps low smoke Lean HSN
    Raspy sound with alot of smoke at full throttle HSN too rich
    High idle with a small idle gap on the carb slide LSN too lean or possible air leak
    RPM's rising and falling at idle could be a lean LSN or air leak.

    Now when it comes to bogging situations you have to look for smoke to tell what type it is and there is 2 types of bog. A lean bog and rich bog. Bogs usually happen if your tune is way off.
    Lean bog will have little or no smoke at full throttle (you'll notice high temps if ran too long) richen the HSN.
    Rich bog you'll have tons of smoke and sometimes if it's too rich there will be no smoke at all (this is where it gets confusing determining rich or lean bog). If you get an overly rich bog with no smoke you'll see raw clear fuel spitting from the exhaust and you'll need to lean the HSN.

    Bogs also can occur from the LSN setting and it acts similarly as I described above. Assuming you have the HSN tuned properly.
    Lean LSN bog will hesitate and bog immediately when you stab the throttle wide open when your truck is stopped and then pick back up and run perfectly.
    Rich LSN bog will be really sluggish and raspy sounding upon full throttle take off then clean out once it gets going.

    Hopefully I'm not confusing the heck out of you with this but when you run into these situations you'll see what I'm talking about. Nitro can get expensive but don't get discouraged the first is always the toughest. Once you figure it out the cost will go down and the fun will begin.

    Go back to the factory settings run it and try again.
    Last edited by CarGuy7a; 04-27-2013 at 11:18 PM.

  8. #8
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    Thanks! I'm taking notes.lol
    Seems to me I have an air leak. Idle is all over the place. Checked the tank and its fine. RTV on the header and the carb.
    (This was reccomended to me by my hobby shop. Said it was a must on the 3.3 even tho Traxxas says its a no-no)
    He offered to set it up for me for a small fee, but I wont learn anything. I'm determined to get this correct by myself...
    Carb is not cracked and operating fine. I guess the next step is to re-0ring the carb and engine. What kit would I use?I can only find kits for the 2.5. Same thing?
    I cant thank everyone enough for the help. Step by step I guess..
    If it dont work, kick it as hard as you can.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. fallonguy's Avatar
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    Yes the kits for the 2.5 is the same as the 3.3. The 3.3 engine uses the same carb. as the 2.5 engine did.
    I wanted to put a really cool signature but I ran

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    have you sealed the backplate of your engine??
    take the engine out of the truck and remove the ez-start you will then see 4 cap head screws remove them and gentle wiggle off the backplate,claen the oil from aound the o ring area and put a small amount of copper rtv around the o ring and re assemble allow 24 hour to dry and try again

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    Is this a out of the box truck or did you buy it off of a friend?
    I'm hittin' easy street on mud tires.

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