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  1. #1
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    Diy - summit work stand -

    I posted the question what do people use for a work stand for a Summit. It turns out pretty much everything was the answer. Did some research and this is what I came up with. Its a PVC stand per many of your suggestions. It elevates the summit up 8 inches so the tires are clear and good height for me.
    I have included a parts list at the end of the thread for anyone interested and some photos with captions. I used the hot and cold PVC for indoor plumbing and not the irrigation pipe. Everything came from LOWES. I found the hot and cold was a better size and worked better. You can change to the other PVC just DONT use my measurements they wont work. All in was about $25 to $30.

    PARTS LAID OUT FOR THE BASE
    [IMG][/IMG]

    PARTS LAID OUT FOR THE VERTICAL STANDS
    [IMG][/IMG]

    STAND ASSEMBLED
    [IMG][/IMG]

    CUSTOM FIT THE HEIGHT OF THE FRONT AND REAR STANDS TO MATCH SUMMITS UNDERCARRIAGE
    [IMG][/IMG]

    SAME AS ABOVE DIFFERENT ANGLE
    [IMG][/IMG]

    DRILLED AND SET SCREWS AT ALL JOINTS. TRIED TO GLUE AND IT WAS A NIGHTMARE WITH ALL THE ANGLES. SCREWS WORKED REAL WELL AND MORE ACCURATE TO THE FINAL FIT. BESIDES I CAN ALWAYS TAKE IT APART AND CHANGE IT.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    SPRAYED PLASTIC DIP THROUGH OUT TO INCREASE THE FRICTION BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM. FINISHED STAND WITH PLASTIC COAT.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    SUMMIT ON STAND WITH VELCRO TIE DOWN. I HAVE THIS ONE MOUNTED TO A LAZY SUSAN. WORKS WELL FOR ME.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    SUMMIT RESTING ON STAND.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    COULDN'T JUST HAVE ONE, THE OTHER SUMMITS ARE JEALOUS.
    [IMG][/IMG]



    Fun to make only took an hour or two. For you that are interested here's a parts list. REMEMBER its HOT COLD PVC not the bright white irrigation pipe. Everything is from Lowes. The stand is 8 inches tall which was a good height for me.

    10 foot length of 3/4 inc hot cold pipe - $10
    8 - 90 degree elbows - $3
    8 - tees - $4
    4 - 45 degree elbows - $2
    4 - caps - $2
    1 can plastic dip - $6
    1 pack of screws - $6

    CUT LIST
    12-pcs 1 3/8 inches
    4-pcs 6 inches
    4 - pc 3 inches
    2 - pcs 5 inches
    4 - pcs 4 5/8 inches

    I used a 2.5 mm drill bit for the pilot holes. Its a work in progress I welcome any suggestions or ideas.

  2. #2
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    Wow, looks great!!! Thanks for taking the time to include the parts and cut list. I see myself making one of these in the near future.

    Cheers
    Tekin powered Summit

  3. #3
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    Nice job.
    I didn't even think to try that and my dad is a plumber LOL.
    What glue did you try to use?
    If the summit can go through; its not deep enough

  4. #4
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    Awesome! Thanks for posting the details.
    Working hard to appear reasonably sane.

  5. #5
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    I realized after I had to delete some of the photos from my original thread that I left off some important details. I have indicated where the cut pcs go.

    CUT LIST
    12-pcs 1 3/8 inches - HOLD ALL THE CORNERS TO THE TEES,45 DEGREE ELBOWS TO THE TEES AND CAPS TO THE TEES
    4-pcs 6 inches - BETWEEN THE TEES ON THE LONG SIDE OF THE BASE AND BETWEEN THE 90 ELBOW TO CREATE PLATFORM
    4 - pc 3 inches - BETWEEN THE 90 ELBOWS AND TEES SHORT SIDE OF BASE
    2 - pcs 5 inches - VERTICAL PCS FOR THE TWO END STANDS
    4 - pcs 4 5/8 inches - VERTICAL PCS ON THE PLATFORM STAND

    YOU CAN SEE THE LAYOUT ON THE FIRST TWO PHOTOS. THE OVERALL DIMENSION OF THE BASE IS APPROX 9 X 13 INCHES. THE WIDTH OR DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PLATFORM PIECES IS APPROX 5 3/8 INCHES. THE SUMMIT CHASSIS IS NOT FLAT AND THIS DIMENSION IS WHERE THE PLATFORM FITS THE BEST. THE STEERING SERVOS THAT PROTRUDE DOWN FIT JUST BELOW AND AGAINST THE 90 DEGREE PLATFORM ELBOWS. THERE IS A FRONT AND BACK SO WHEN YOU DO YOUR FINAL MEASUREMENTS FOR THE END STANDS PAY ATTENTION TO FRONT AND REAR, I HAVE MINE LABELED SO THE FRONT OF THE SUMMIT ALWAYS GOES THE CORRECT WAY.

    THE SCREWS ARE METAL (FLAT HEADS ) SCREWS #8 X 3/4"/ M4.2X19. I USED A 2.5 MM DRILL BIT FOR THE PILOT HOLES. I USED THE PLASTIC SPRAY NOT WIPE ON. PROBABLY HAS 4 COATS AND ADDITIONAL COUPLE WHERE THE SUMMIT RESTS AGAINST THE PVC. I DID GLUE THE CAPS TO THE TEES ON THE END STANDS BUT IT WAS OVER MY PAY GRADE TO FIGURE ALL THE ANGLES AND TRY TO GLUE IT ALL.

    YOU CAN GET CLEAR MOUNTING CLIPS THAT WOULD ALLOW YOU TO MOUNT THE STAND TO A PIECE OF WOOD, WORK BENCH, LAZY SUSAN ETC. I JUST STRAPPED MY SUMMIT TO THE STAND, MOUNTED ON A LAZY SUSAN AND CHANGED OUT THE SHOCKS WITH SOME ALUM ONES IT WORKED GREAT.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by danielhawkins View Post
    Nice job.
    I didn't even think to try that and my dad is a plumber LOL.
    What glue did you try to use?
    I used PVC Cement by Oatey from Lowes. Its medium - clear. No other info. Once the pcs are glued together it dries in seconds. There maybe some slower drying glue. Ask your dad I bet he knows what to use. I just am not good enough and plus its really hard to get the stand all together with all the right angles and then take it apart and get everything just right. Found it easier to screw it together. Plus if I need to change it, the pcs will come apart.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRICK57 View Post
    I used PVC Cement by Oatey from Lowes. Its medium - clear. No other info.
    Just had a look. I believe it would be pretty much the same stuff as we use.

    Quote Originally Posted by BRICK57 View Post
    Once the pcs are glued together it dries in seconds. There maybe some slower drying glue. Ask your dad I bet he knows what to use. I just am not good enough...
    It does take a bit of practice and getting used to, especially to be able to do a neat job but still apply enough glue that it seals the join.
    We get about 5-8 seconds (on average) working time with it and plus i use it all the time (as i work with my dad in school holidays) so i know how much working time i can get out of it.
    Also there is no slower setting glues. It is only temperature and how much you put on that really determines setting speed.

    Quote Originally Posted by BRICK57 View Post
    Found it easier to screw it together. Plus if I need to change it, the pcs will come apart.
    Screwing would definitely be easier and yes you can pull it apart if you need too.
    If i did it (i probably will) i would use glue just because it is neater and IMO easier but as i said it takes practice to get it right and neat.

    But back on topic: its a good way of making a stand. Simple, fairly cheap and it is pretty strong too. thanks for the idea and taking the time to post it, along with pictures and lots of instructions and info.
    If the summit can go through; its not deep enough

  8. #8
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    nice work. looks great blacked out like that.

  9. #9
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    Building one ASAP.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcdakota View Post
    Building one ASAP.
    Let me know how it turns out. or post a photo.

  11. #11
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    I will going to Lowes after work tomorrow.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the parts list and photos!

    I've built one for me this weekend (still have to do some fine tuning).

    I've changed the measurements a little bit because 45 degree joints were not available near me so I used 90 degree ones.

    I'll post pics and details of my measurements tomorrow after I finish it.

  13. #13
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    I'm anxious to see it. I didn't think to use 90 degree elbows. That actually might make it more stable.

  14. #14
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    So here it is.

    I am still not quite finished yet. Some final adjustments are needed.

    What I've changed from your original design:

    - Used 90 degrees elbows instead of 45
    - Because of that I added 0.5 inch to each piece of the base (short side) to make the base wider and compensate for the angle
    - Adjusted the height of the vertical pieces (side ones). I confess on not being very scientific and used eye-o-meter / trial and error
    - Added mounting clips to the "T's" to provide a flat surface to the skid plates
    - Angled the rear T to better accomodate the angled rear skidplate.


    (Sorry for the mess on the background)


    Front view


    Detail view of the wall-mounting clips on the T


    Rear T (angled) with clips


    Summit front skidplate resting on front T clips


    Summit rear skidplate resting on angled rear T clips




    Mandatory side/front/back views.

    With all the angles and dimensions right I'll put screws everywhere. I kind of like it on the raw brown tube color. I'm thinking of adding rubber pads to prevent slippage, but haven't thought of how exactly to do it (material, thickness, etc).

    Thanks again for taking the time to post all the dimensions, etc.

  15. #15
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    Update: completely unintended use, but it works great.


  16. #16
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    Wow great job. I really like the idea of the square mounts on the vertical tees. Angling the rear tee is a innovative. I bought some rubber pad from my lhs about 1/8" thick and was going to cut and wrap it between the elbows on the two upper horizontial stands. I do think the 90 degree elbows on the bottom are a better way to go. Its got to be stronger than the way I did it with 45 degree elbows. Going vertical is a nice added benefit.

    I did find with the plastic spray that it creates a lot of needed friction for the base and where the truck sits. I'm glad I screwed mine together so now I can take it apart and make some updated revisions. Thanks for the photos and the awesome ideas.

  17. #17
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    Installed the T-bone Racing skid plates and the truck fits on the work stand even better now. I did install all of the skids, if you only did the chassis skid you would need to adjust the two verticals. Best thing of all is the truck fit upside down on the stand. I was able to work on the summit upside down just fine.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

  18. #18
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    Wow that looks great. I may have to make something like that for my NR. All I am using is two 2x4's duct taped together

    Sent From Galaxy S3

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