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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
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    Quickly losing patience

    Ok...I posted about this problem before and tried everything. The engine cuts out and dies before it has a chance to idle. I have good blue smoke, changed fuel lines, tightened carb plugs. Still checking LSN to see if thats it. Temp outside wnet from 40 last week to like 80 today so having a hard time tuning. Also put in a new glow plug. When I try to start the car I cannot get it to start wihout giving it throttle and alot of blue smoke comes out but eventually that thins out and I get a good stream. What else can I do??? Help Please!!!!

  2. #2
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    Try leaning out the game.
    Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3

  3. #3
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    The game? Not sure what you mean. I just leaned the LSN and it seemed to help, but it's late and cannot do any WOT passes to check the settings. I need more specific and expert advice on tuning. It's a brand new motor with maybe 3 quarts through it. I understand I will have to re-tune due to outside temp changes (they have been extreme)....But the car still acts the same, it dies before I can do the pinch test. When I finally did the pinch test (without WOT passes) it cut immediately. Too lean?

  4. #4
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    Sorry about that. I using my phone. I meant leaning out the hsn.
    Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3

  5. #5
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    The warmer it is, the leaner you have to set the needles. Both of them. Warmer air is less dense, therefore having less oxygen. So less fuel is needed for proper combustion.

  6. #6
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    Check to make sure nothing is binding from clutchbell to the tires. Also if tuning or anything doesn't work try taking a look at piston and sleeve.

    From idle to 1/4 throttle tune LSN. beyond that HSN
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-11-2013 at 10:21 AM. Reason: merge

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Will it start and idle while it's off the ground?

    Another possibility is your clutch. Either a stretched or broken clutch spring, or a broken shoe can cause it to die immediately or almost immediately when coming to a stop.
    T-Maxx 3.3/E-Maxx/30th Digger/1:10 Summit/Rustler

  8. #8
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    I looked it over last night and decided to set everything back to factory. Haven't had a chance to see if it's going to run. Will try this evening. One thing I did notice was that the LSN seems kind of loose. Is this normal?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowdyrich View Post
    I looked it over last night and decided to set everything back to factory. Haven't had a chance to see if it's going to run. Will try this evening. One thing I did notice was that the LSN seems kind of loose. Is this normal?
    It shouldn't be loose.
    Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3

  10. #10
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    If that's loose the whole slide maybe loose

  11. #11
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    That loose needle will cause the problems you've been having.

  12. #12
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    Still dying and can't keep it running on idle. Not sure whats going on. Getting tired of messing with it. Thinking about selling and starting over with an electric. Less work/More fun IMO.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowdyrich View Post
    Still dying and can't keep it running on idle. Not sure whats going on. Getting tired of messing with it. Thinking about selling and starting over with an electric. Less work/More fun IMO.
    Haven't seen it mentioned yet.... How much run time and fuel is on the particular 3.3 your playing with?? Reason I ask??? I've had some higher milage motors n the past run insane up till one day, there's just not enough pinch left to make them idle no matter what u throw at it. No pinch= no compression without increasining piston speed,ie revving it up.
    FASTEST "recorded/proven" JATO'S-3.3 AND Big block

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowdyrich View Post
    The game? Not sure what you mean. I just leaned the LSN and it seemed to help, but it's late and cannot do any WOT passes to check the settings. I need more specific and expert advice on tuning. It's a brand new motor with maybe 3 quarts through it. I understand I will have to re-tune due to outside temp changes (they have been extreme)....But the car still acts the same, it dies before I can do the pinch test. When I finally did the pinch test (without WOT passes) it cut immediately. Too lean?
    Oops. Sorry. I c now. How was break in process performed?? Did u use after run oil after each n every time u ran car?? What type?? Sounds silly but, makes a HUGE difference. U have deleted a number of vararibles from the issues your having. Time to move in to others. I think it's time to start from clean slate and rule anything and everything out. I've learned the hard way with these little suckers. I've had some that perform flawlessly for first two quarts then, bam! All sudden, had same troubles u r. Lead back to not running after run oil.

    I feel like the motor needs to be tore down and inspected. Can u post pics??
    FASTEST "recorded/proven" JATO'S-3.3 AND Big block

  15. #15
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    Ok here's what I've done so far:
    1. Changed all fuel lines to ensure no pin leaks
    2. Removed OWB cleaned, oiled reinstalled
    3. Tuned back to factory all needles--Adjusted HSN, didn't mess w/ LSN, until last night...started leaning out a little at a time, no help. Then re-set back to factory, still no help.
    4. Changed glow plug just for giggles, the one that was in there was fine. On the first glow plug, whenever I pulled the ignitor it would die, so of course thought that could be the deal, no dice. I run it, it dies, I run it, it dies etc etc.
    5. Pulled pipe, cleaned it, re-installed, no dice. Same thing.

    Now at a loss. Should I pull carb, clean it? How do I pull carb-Whole engine must come off?...post a shortcut pls if you got one....Also how do I check for leaks anywhere else? I am thinking I have an air leak SOMEWHERE...just not sure where/how to check for that. I could be off base on the air leak, if so let me know or some other stuff to try. I am really trying to narrow it down for you guys.

  16. #16
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    By the way less than 2 gallons through it, I am sure. Hate to tear down the engine if not needed. Maybe came from the factory w/ an issue? I did break it in in cold weather. Never really got to good operating temps I don't think initially. It does have decent compression though.

  17. #17
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    Also by the way....Religously do after run maintenance...Use after run oil, clean air filter etc etc.

  18. #18
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    my jato acted the same way after I cooked the piston and sleeve last year, I would look into that like others have said before me.
    oh after I replaced the piston/sleeve I made a nice keychain out of it, not a complete loss haha

  19. #19
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    Man I hope that isn't it. Any idea what would cause a fragged piston/sleeve?

  20. #20
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    Do you use a temp gun while tuning. Best way to prevent and check often while driving. I got a replacement piston for 50 bucks. When you replace it your engine is basically brand new so you need to break it in again. Look up some videos on YouTube for replacing it. It's actually pretty simple and you get to learn how to fix one more thing. I wish you luck on gettin back on that pavement

  21. #21
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    What color is you piston?
    Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3

  22. #22
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    Update:
    Haven't taken apart to look at the piston yet. Last night I cleaned carb, double checked fuel lines for holes, check fuel tank for leaks. Also went ahead and drilled the stinger, figure it can't hurt at this point. Haven't tried starting it again yet. What color should the piston be? Also took out HSN and LSN and sprayed WD40 into the carb to try to dislodge any debris, hoping this helps. I will try again tonight.

  23. #23
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    i would say more of a golden color. brown or maby a deep copper is bad

  24. #24
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    Finally some closure on this issue. Over the weekend I was revving the motor because I couldnt keep it at idle. Decided it was a compression issue. Well I know now why I had compression issue. The piston rod blew up because I feel it was probably mishaped at the opening and wasn't allowing the piston to do a full cycle etc. Botttom line is it exploded and I had piston rod pieces all inside my motor. Long story short, I ended up buying a new motor with Traxxas exchange program at the LHS. I probably could have just replaced the piston rod but decided to just go with a new motor. Thanks for all the inputs and help with this one. Get to break in a new motor this weekend! Fun Fun.

  25. #25
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    I had a pretty good feeling it was a compression issue. Your issues matched the issues I had with one basically identically when my compression was gone. Glad u solved the problem. 👍👍
    FASTEST "recorded/proven" JATO'S-3.3 AND Big block

  26. #26
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    Closure at last

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