Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    104

    new tires/wheels glue wont hold

    ok...i have glued 4 pairs of tires now with no issues and the 2 pairs of pre glued tires have no issues either...we have only been running 2s with 13t pinions so no crazy rpms or anything...this is my first time gluing bf goodrich s1 compound and they are on a set of the green/chrome traxxas wheels...for whatever reason the glue has not held at all...what did i do wrong?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    El Sobrante, Ca
    Posts
    7,432
    Did you wash the wheels in warm soapy water before you applied the glue? You might need to rough up the bead on the wheel and tire to help the glue stick. What glue are you using?
    Slash Ultimate, ET-3S, 2400, MIP, King Headz, RPM

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    sonoma cal
    Posts
    25
    I'm not trying to change the trend but i was thinking about putting bead locks on my truck instead of gluing some tires my self what holds up better ?? and will the bead locks save me some cash in the long run?? with not having to buy pre glued tire an rim ....it get to b expensive

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    I have noticed there are subtle differences in tires. Its as if some batches get more mold release than others. I would suggest dremeling the bead only slightly if possible. This is my standard procedure now for all tires and wheels. Im not removing mass amounts of rubber, only scuffing the surface. I do the rims to with hot soapy water and a piece of steel wool.
    Your glue may be old or possibly contaminated by something? Maybe thinking out loud but its a consideration.
    Good luck.

    For EsTkenny:
    I have only run glued rims. Never had an issue with them once they are glued properly. My cousin is a die hard beadlock basher. I have driven his trucks before and see/feel no difference. Beadlocks are nice for bashers to change tires quickly and easily. If you love your burnouts like me...consider beadlocks.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    104
    i am considering beadlocks also

    i didn't wash the tires or anything...

    thanks guys


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points. The language filter has been put in place for a reason.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-09-2013 at 10:13 AM. Reason: merge & language abuse

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Easton, MD
    Posts
    588
    Not to hijack this thread, but since we are talkin' beadlocks: any good 2.8" beadlocks out there?

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    N. Idaho... Da Sticks!
    Posts
    3,227
    Like El Sob said, you should prep your tires and wheels for glueing. Here is a good video on prepping your tires for glueing:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0X_2GJI1Fw

    Quote Originally Posted by briandee View Post
    Not to hijack this thread, but since we are talkin' beadlocks: any good 2.8" beadlocks out there?
    I like the Proline beadlocks, they have a good design and hold the bear really well. The only problem with beadlocks is you will almost double the weight of your wheels, which will reduce your overall power. Also, throttle inputs while jumping will have more of an effect becasue of more rotating mass.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    El Sobrante, Ca
    Posts
    7,432
    I have a set of aluminum beadlock wheels and I them! They do add weight but it is down low so it aids in traction and stability. I have Mip X-Duty axles with aluminum hex so I have no problem stripping wheel hexs. Beadlock wheels save money in the long run just as EsTkenny said. I run the 2400 system so I am not concerned about power loss. Cannot tell the difference between plastic wheels and my aluminum wheels except there is a lot less traction with the plastic wheels.
    Slash Ultimate, ET-3S, 2400, MIP, King Headz, RPM

  9. #9
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    104
    lol,forget it...split six beadlocks on the way

    just wish there was more options as far as looks go

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    El Sobrante, Ca
    Posts
    7,432
    Oh I forgot to post a picture of my wheels. Sawhead, if you want the wheels, go get them and you are going to be extremely happy with them. I suggest getting aluminum wheel hexs if you don't already have them.
    Slash Ultimate, ET-3S, 2400, MIP, King Headz, RPM

  11. #11
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    sonoma cal
    Posts
    25
    Hey EL Sob, so r bead locks more of a bashers tire an rim setup ?? do people not use them for racing ??

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Ft. Stewart, GA
    Posts
    594
    IMO the true Beadlocks are pretty heavy in comparison, and it also depends on what your racing.. For a Short Course weight matters, so a lighter wheel is always better.. Imagine running in toe shoes vs steel toed boots...
    Whatever I just said.. I'm probably wrong..

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •