Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    16

    New stampede 4x4

    I'm new to the forum, new to this hobby, and got a new stampede 4x4 that came with a traxxas 2s 4000mah lipo. I also bought a charger which is the thunder ac680 because the charger that came with it was too slow to charge. I ran it about 10 times since I got it.

    Questions:

    1. the lvc cutoff stops at 3.2v and the other cell is at 3.4v. Is this normal? Also when I'm done charging, it's showing that one cell has 4.20v and the other 4.19. Is this normal?

    2.after charging the battery, it's showing that 3910mah has been put back out of 4000mah.
    Is that bad that I used more than 90% of the battery or is this normal? I thought when the lvc cuts off, it means that I used about 80% of it? I charge the battery at 1c(4amps) takes about an hour or so.

    3. When I push down on the car, there's a squeak noise coming from the halfshaft( I think that's what it's Called). Any ideas what the sound is and how to fix it?

    4. I want to upgrade to a 3s battery but I've been told that a lot of parts will break. What should I consider getting before upgrading to a 3s to handle the power?

    I know that this is a lot of question but please help a newbie out . Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bexhill, England
    Posts
    430
    Hi,

    Just a quick one - my 4000mah 2s is charged at the same rate and gets 3500mah, which i think is about right.

    Yes, if you go to 3s there are lots of things you will need to upgrade, depending on how you will drive it (if you are driving it full throttle for a whole pack, you could eventually smoke the esc). axels are a must (would recommend on 2s, let alone 3s) bearing adapter for slipper clutch, you may wants fans on motor and esc, wheels may start to break (you may need to get bigger hexes), i'll let the other fill in the gaps...

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Northwest Iowa
    Posts
    92
    Get an RPM wide front bumper.. at some point you will run in to something and this will absorb a majority of front impacts. Have a set of RPM A-Arms on hand for when you break the stock arms.

    A set of MIP CVDs (others run tekno shafts.. take your pick). you could start with the rears and add fronts later.

    thermal gun to read the temp of your motor... even after running 2s depending on terrain and driving style, it will eventually get too hot. if you run 3s, keep a closer eye on temps.
    p4de mmp2400 - stock p4de - wraith

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    1,756
    Quote Originally Posted by Mackaylei View Post
    I'm new to the forum, new to this hobby, and got a new stampede 4x4 that came with a traxxas 2s 4000mah lipo. I also bought a charger which is the thunder ac680 because the charger that came with it was too slow to charge. I ran it about 10 times since I got it.

    Questions:

    1. the lvc cutoff stops at 3.2v and the other cell is at 3.4v. Is this normal? Also when I'm done charging, it's showing that one cell has 4.20v and the other 4.19. Is this normal?

    2.after charging the battery, it's showing that 3910mah has been put back out of 4000mah.
    Is that bad that I used more than 90% of the battery or is this normal? I thought when the lvc cuts off, it means that I used about 80% of it? I charge the battery at 1c(4amps) takes about an hour or so.

    3. When I push down on the car, there's a squeak noise coming from the halfshaft( I think that's what it's Called). Any ideas what the sound is and how to fix it?

    4. I want to upgrade to a 3s battery but I've been told that a lot of parts will break. What should I consider getting before upgrading to a 3s to handle the power?

    I know that this is a lot of question but please help a newbie out . Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
    1. Yes. Not all batteries are perfectly balanced. 4.19 vs 4.20 on a full charge is nothing.

    2. Yes, that's normal too.

    3. The squeak could also be from the pins holding the a-arms. Either way, a little bit of wd-40 or a spray-on Teflon lube will fix it. It's probably nothing to worry about though.

    4. Just practice driving first. People break stuff on 3S more if they don't have good driving skills. For example, on 3S, you can't just floor it right away. Also, you can't land jumps on full throttle. Both of those things will break driveshafts. If you're still breaking them on 3S, just get some MIP or Tekno driveshafts.

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    16
    Thanks for the info guys!

    One last question
    What is a safe temp for the motor,esc, and battery? Thanks

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wales in the UK
    Posts
    5,071
    Welcome to the forum dude Dont let the motor go over 180f and the esc over 140f and the battery about 120-130f or it may wreck your stuff.....peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  7. #7
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    16
    Thanks man.. U got one sweet pede man! I'll be doing the same upgrades soon with mine! Thanks again for the help!

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wales in the UK
    Posts
    5,071
    No worries dude thats what we are all here for to help each other man..........peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    new york state
    Posts
    724
    Depending on how much money you have I would reccomend these upgrades : MIP x-dutys, rpm or T-bone racing bumper...T-bone also makes a servo / bellcrank area protector/brace which might be worth your money, Kingheadz motor mount ($35), big bore shocks (or at least ultra shocks with tiNi shafts and alum. Caps), rpm arms, alum. Stub axles and casterblocks
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  10. #10
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by eschmitt4 View Post
    Depending on how much money you have I would reccomend these upgrades : MIP x-dutys, rpm or T-bone racing bumper...T-bone also makes a servo / bellcrank area protector/brace which might be worth your money, Kingheadz motor mount ($35), big bore shocks (or at least ultra shocks with tiNi shafts and alum. Caps), rpm arms, alum. Stub axles and casterblocks
    Thanks for the tips! What's the difference on the king headz motor mount and the stock one? Is it just plastic vs alum?

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wales in the UK
    Posts
    5,071
    The kingsheadz is aluminum which is better for dissipating heat and it comes with a bigger bearings size for less chance of failure of the bearing and its stronger too.
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 04-05-2013 at 07:05 PM.
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  12. #12
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    16
    Oh ok thanks.. Makes sense! Added to the upgrade list lol

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •