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  1. #1
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    Why do my diffs keep stripping?!!

    My rear diff won't stop stripping. Second time since shimmed!

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  2. #2
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    Need to ensure the Diffs are properly shimmed. This might help...

    MUGs' Street Machine
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Shimming will only do so much. I tried shimming and aluminum cases and even a set of Robinson racing gear set. Spider gear went then the pinion went
    Upgraded to flm hybrid diffs and 1/8 scale ring and pinions and holding up great!

  4. #4
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    Guess I must be "lucky"

    Check out my EMBE Vids and judge for yourself. 6s, Stock Diffs all the way, just properly shimmed.

    Mugs' embe
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    That would be considered easy terrain. Where I bash it is rough with a hilclimb the has rocks in the middle of the hillclimb so its hard on the diffs

  6. #6
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    As you correctly pointed out in your thread recently in response to one of my posts, I am assuming you mean your daughter is the one doing the bashing as this is the EMaxx Section.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  7. #7
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    I've only been running on snow and dirt

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    That would be considered easy terrain. Where I bash it is rough with a hilclimb the has rocks in the middle of the hillclimb so its hard on the diffs
    Can you please explain how the rough terrain impacts diff stripping as I am not understanding why?

  9. #9
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    It cause the tires to come off the ground rapidly unloading the power to that wheel then rapidly back onto the ground while the tire is spinning faster than the truck is moving making it slip the diff gears or snap shafts


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    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  10. #10
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    I have driven on fairly rough terrain that s rocky and rutted on 6s without having issues on stock shimmed diffs. Maybe a video or picture of the terrain would help me have a better understanding.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaier View Post
    I have driven on fairly rough terrain that s rocky and rutted on 6s without having issues on stock shimmed diffs. Maybe a video or picture of the terrain would help me have a better understanding.
    Wel then your gears must be made out of some sort of space metal because everyone knows the stocks will not hold up to 6s and a good bashing. 4s ya they will but 6s noa


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    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  12. #12
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    Apologies for maybe misunderstanding, as his thread contain lots of posting not always info specific, but memory tells me Mr 50 is running 4s?
    Bliksim!

  13. #13
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    Ya he does run 4s


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    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  14. #14
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    This is one of them

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    This is one of them
    Where do u live, that's looks amazing

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  16. #16
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    Im having the same problem how do you shim the diffs never had to do all this on my Tmaxx 3.3

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Tujunga zip.91042
    Shimming is pretty easy. This will give you an idea. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Diff-Shim-Mod

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mydudrevo View Post
    Wel then your gears must be made out of some sort of space metal because everyone knows the stocks will not hold up to 6s and a good bashing. 4s ya they will but 6s noa


    Sent from my iPhone using My Thumbs
    I stripped a stock diff once on 6S, shimmed and never had a problem again with the stock diff on 6S. I changed over to 1/8 scale diffs with hybrid bulk and I have not been able to go even 5min without killing the spider gears. actually wishing I had stuck with the standards.....

  19. #19
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    Did you shim the spider gears?
    What diffs the caster's?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suteki View Post
    I stripped a stock diff once on 6S, shimmed and never had a problem again with the stock diff on 6S. I changed over to 1/8 scale diffs with hybrid bulk and I have not been able to go even 5min without killing the spider gears. actually wishing I had stuck with the standards.....
    Well mate, I guess that means that you must also only be running on "easy terrain" {refer post #4 & 5 above}.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksheep253 View Post
    Im having the same problem how do you shim the diffs never had to do all this on my Tmaxx 3.3
    Here you go mate...this is good info on shimming diffs (its from my eRevo thread but you'll get the idea). Its much a trial and error thing...what works for me may be different for you.

    Diff shimming stock diffs.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5389525

    Calandra shims:
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5420591

    And these are the shims I use now...3Racing.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5451921
    Rock n Rolla !

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Did you shim the spider gears?
    What diffs the caster's?
    Yeh it's the casters I believe, the ones the hybrid diffs come with. After waiting weeks got some replacements. 1 of them is finished already after a few minutes.

    I believe the first lot I had went because of the angle of the dog bones I had due to the way the suspension was setup. This time I dunno. When the diffs went together they were super smooth, no binding, double checked the stance, no problems.

    Might have to inspect the shimming aspect of the spider gears. See if there is any play there, but I honestly wouldn't have thought they needed it as I would expect they would be fine as I have never had a problem with any diffs in any of the my other cars like my SCT or my 1/8 buggy and yet this Emaxx just refuses to get going. It's always something with this thing.

    Edit - So I just found something If I hold the diff case and one output yoke, the diff binds up, its not allowing the diff action to take place.

    I put some gaskets in the inside of the diff crown to see if it was too tight in the diff case but it did the same thing. So I don't know whats happening in there.
    Last edited by Suteki; 04-08-2013 at 07:56 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suteki View Post
    Edit - So I just found something If I hold the diff case and one output yoke, the diff binds up, its not allowing the diff action to take place.

    I put some gaskets in the inside of the diff crown to see if it was too tight in the diff case but it did the same thing. So I don't know whats happening in there.
    I'm having the exact same issue. Did the FLM Ultimate hybrid bulks front and rear, but the rear instantly gave me problems. Got it pulled apart last night and the 2 side gears were missing one tooth each, and 2 of the spider gears looked shaved down just a little.

    The diff was shimmed properly for sideplay and ring/pinion mesh, diff cup filled with 7k oil, but I saw nothing about problems with the spider gearset or a need to shim parts inside the diff cup.

    I was thinking about trying to shim all spiders and side gears inwards when I get the new one. I ALSO thought of filling this one with epoxy or JB weld to make a posi-trac rear, but I fear this is a good way to twist an axle or a driveshaft.

    The front diff works fine in every aspect. The rear works fine in a straight line. The differential action is the problem. Same as the post above, If I try to spin one wheel while holding the other, it binds at a certain spot.

    I guess for now I'll be waiting on a new diff carrier. Any luck fixing this issue for anyone else?

  24. #24
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    My truck will eat stock diffs for breakfast and still be hungry. I kept blowing the input bearings.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brokenparts View Post
    My truck will eat stock diffs for breakfast and still be hungry. I kept blowing the input bearings.
    That's my problem too, and I think the cause of my blowing diffs. I lose the input bearing, which lets the pinion bounce around until it starts to slip and chew up teeth. I am running the CVD's from Traxxas so there should not be too much side loading of the bearing. I just rebuilt my rear diff and have yet to get the truck on the ground as I am taking the opportunity to rebuild the entire rear suspension with new links and shocks and springs plus other misc new stuff. I should have it on the ground in a couple days and will update this thread. My really good question for the pro's that I am sure a bunch of newbs would like to know. WHERE IN THE HECK DO YOU BUY YOUR SHIMS AT. At the moment I did the best I could with some machine/stove pipe washers, but I know its not perfect.

  26. #26
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    these may not be the right size for traxxas diffs. They are not that hard to find, just go to any reputable hobby warehouse online and do a search for diff shims.

    http://www.nitrohouse.com/13x16x1mm-...s_p_14387.html

    http://nitrohouse.ecomm-search.com/s...=-44&search=GO

  27. #27
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    Ultimate hybrid bulks for 1/8 diffs and these:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hyper-7-Fron...item485d33120b

    have worked wonders after blowing out the rear diffs twice the first two times I ran the truck from new. Haven't had any problems with about 10 battery cycles now.

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