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  1. #1
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    In need of help for big bore shock install issues?

    Ok I thought this was an easy 1,2,3 type of thing. Took the old shocks off filled the new shocks up following directions word for word. Placed the new (rear) big bore shocks in position and started screwing the top in, the screws went in so hard that they will not come back out now, is that normal? After they were installed the rear end sagged so low that the skid plate almost touches the ground? So I went to remove the shocks and check oil levels and stripped the screws out in the top mount area. So now I know I need new caps for the big bore shocks (screw up #2 assuming I screwed up with the oil or install somewhere else, I did notice oil on the shock shaft and dripping out a little). I ordered new caps and took the hole shock setup off, to remove the caps and put the old original shocks back onto the truck with the new progressive springs on instead of the original springs that came with the truck. What is going on here? Am I missing something or doing something completely wrong? Even now with the progressive springs installed onto the original shocks the rear end sits kind of low and has just about no bounce back if I push down and release it. Any advise or should I just hang up my RC experience (don't want to do that but the frustration level for a mid 30's man is getting high)

  2. #2
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    Also should I be using 40 weight oil or the 30wt that comes with them? And what about the piston should I change that out if I use the 40wt oil and if so which piston?

  3. #3
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    I run Traxxas Big Bore shocks on my Grave Digger, had no issues installing them. I used stock screws.

    On the rear, I am using 2 pre load spacers, and 60wt shock oil. To fill them with oil, make sure the shock is fully extended, and fill it almost to the top with oil. Slowly push the shock in, then slowly pull it out again. This is to work out any air / air bubbles. Once this is done, put your shock cap back on.

    For the front, I had to use a flat file on the RPM a arms to get it to fit in properly. I am using pre load spacers as well.


    I will say that I do like the Pro-Line Power Stroke shocks alot more.
    Founder of the Mini Monsters RC group

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Put the original springs on the big bore shocks. Add spacers to the shocks to adjust ride height.

    The little l shaped allen keys that come with the truck are pretty soft. Pick up some quality 1.5,2, and 2.5mm hex drivers and replace the shock shoulder screws that you stripped.

    Dont quit, you will break free of that frustration soon and will be having a blast.

    Mini, make sure to cycle the piston through the oil many times to get all the bubbles above the piston, and the wait a while to let those bubbles rise to the surface to get them all out. You may then need to add a little more oil to top them off. The way you describe it, you will still have a bunch of air in the shock, and it will be squishy and noisy. A properly oiled bb shock will be super smooth, and totally silent as you cycle the shock shaft. No squishy sounds, no squishy feel.
    Last edited by rag6; 04-03-2013 at 06:51 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Right now the big bore shocks are sitting to the side since during the uninstall I bent the caps for them. So I ordered new caps. I have 40wt oil should I leave the piston that the big bores come with in there or put a different one in? I could also just run it with the 30wt oil they supplied I guess?

    The progressive springs I bought separate are they stiffer or lighter then the stock springs? Also I tried the preload spacers and it really seemed to do nothing to help the rear suspension bounce back up.
    Last edited by ironruger; 04-03-2013 at 06:55 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    You may then need to add a little more oil to top them off. The way you describe it, you will still have a bunch of air in the shock, and it will be squishy and noisy. A properly oiled bb shock will be super smooth, and totally silent as you cycle the shock shaft. No squishy sounds, no squishy feel.
    X2

    Also make sure the little rubber bladder peice is in the shock cap, it could be a cause of your leaking shock

  7. #7
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    After rereading that post above I did notice a lot of noise when I pushed the truck down on the rear. I thought I got the bubbles out but I did not really do it very long so maybe that was the cause of the low ride in the rear?

    What about the progressive springs? I figured they were a good improvement, was I wrong? I am just looking for a nice smooth ride with good shock absorption and the ability to do wheelies

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyleb View Post
    X2

    Also make sure the little rubber bladder peice is in the shock cap, it could be a cause of your leaking shock
    Yes that was there when I put it back on however I am starting to think I did not get all the bubbles out and did not have enough oil in. Still not sure if I should run the stock springs or the progressive rate

    Sorry for so many question but how many preload spacers is to many?
    Last edited by ironruger; 04-03-2013 at 07:41 PM.

  9. #9
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    Here's a few more pennies on your thread. 30 weight oil is okay on a stack weight pede. 40 was just right IMO.

    The process of removing the air bubbles takes a decent amount of time. It involves adding oil, working the shock up and down, watching for bubbles and waiting. And then repeating the process. Hopefully you do not have the springs on at this point and are using one of your wheels as a shock stand so you can walk away for a while. Be sure not to let the shock piston travel higher than the oil or you will have to start all over. Better quality oil produces less bubbles.

    Sag is a bad word. When I think of the word saggy and what comes after it, it's never a pretty site, lol. The progressive springs are designed to be softer in the middle and get more firm as they compress. This is why the ride height drops considerably when compared to stock and everybody flips out. It's okay, we've all been there. Add 1 full spacer to the rear and go from there. After one pack run thru the truck after a successful install and you will see first hand how much more plush these shocks are when compared to stock and the sacrificed ride height becomes a distant memory.

    You made a great investment, get them installed, run them and you'll see. The clips are needed more so when you want to run thru taller grass. You're right, the truck won't go thru taller grass well when it's dragging the rear. But for off roading on some bumpy terrain thats like dirt or rocks, 1 to 1 1/2 spacers was good to me. 2 fullies inthe rear and the truck was too tight and would want to do more rollovers that way.

    Finally, stick with the progressives all the way around. Mixing non prog and prog springs can sometimes make for a funky ride. Try it if you want tho. If having a tall ride height in a static position is more important than having a cushy suspension while running, well my friend, you may have wasted 50 bucks. But if having a set of shocks that will prove to be super durable and smooth that provide a more compliant ride over the bumps was what you wanted in the first place, then you made a great choice.
    Last edited by Oaks; 04-03-2013 at 10:29 PM.

  10. #10
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    OAKS:
    Thanks for that, you certainly cleared up my issues with the rear sitting lower. However I put the oil in let it sit for about 5 minutes moved the shaft up and down a couple times, then added more oil. Honestly I do not think I worked enough bubbles out of the shocks because there was no rebound from these shocks once I installed them, then sadly I stripped the screws out because they were stuck in the upper mounts. I appreciate the advice and once I get the new caps in I will put it to good use. As for my choice in ride height vs plush suspension well I choose plush suspension. I want the truck to handle anything I go over, from plain flat dirt up to jumps and road. I just need to get over the idea of the rear not sitting as high as the front, sure it looks cooler with the rear sitting up high but I know that the suspension needs to have a 50/50 travel just like in Baja trucks. I am glad I made a good choice in shocks and springs, I bought the big bores for the front and rear and the progressive springs front and rear.

    The main thing that throws me off with this rear end suspension is when I push it down, it springs back to center level on the axels, which I have learned from this site is completely normal.

    One question I do have though is I have seen some trucks with 1 spacer in the spring and as many as 3? Does the number of spacers you use effect the ability of the truck? Like I said I just want a good all around performer, I will just play around a bit once I get it all back together.
    Last edited by ironruger; 04-04-2013 at 07:22 AM.

  11. #11
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    Dude, no offense, but the part of your story about the screws being stripped throws me off. The upper shock mount consists of the shock cap, a plastic bushing, the screw and the shock tower. Which piece or set of threads is stripped exactly?

    And I'm glad I could help with some assurance.

    Finally, remember the part about the progressive springs being soft in the middle? You can cram so many spacers in there that you basically soak up all of the progressiveness which would be bad. Your best bet will be to run the truck with one spacer and experiment from there. My preference was 40 wt inthe rear with 1 & 1/2 spacers, and 35wt inthe front with 1/2 a spacer. I wouldn't worry too much about experimentingwith weights until you run at least 20 or so packs thru the truck after the install. Get a good feel for the shocks on the terrain you run on most. Set a baseline, right, and then adjust from there.

  12. #12
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    The screw head its self got stripped out.

    As for the shocks I got them all installed on the rear and took it out this afternoon, I had the 40wt oil in there and one 2 spacers, 1 large and then a medium. It was nice on hard surface like that but sharp turns it would flip over so I took the medium spacer out and it rides perfect. Takes tight turns lands jumps nicely and rides smoothly over everything. I just have to install the fronts now, maybe with the 30wt oil instead of the 40wt?

    Quick side question though, The rear shocks have silver shafts and the fronts have gold is that normal?

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    That is not normal. Did you buy these new or used? If they were new, contact whoever you bought them off of. They owe you a set of xxlong TiNi shock shafts.
    things to add. Its ok if the truck bottoms out just a little on your largest jumps.
    Also, the clips are only there to adjust ride height. If you are using the clips to make the shocks stiffer, your spring is a bit too soft

    EDIT:
    This is a very good hex driver kit. Best I have ever had:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/DYNAMITE-Mac...item51a96e6812
    Last edited by rag6; 04-04-2013 at 05:55 PM.
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  14. #14
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    I ordered them from ebay and they were listed as big bore shocks #2662 xxl. After searching them on traxxas and other sites I see all of them have the non gold color shafts

    The package was sealed and brand new when I got it. It also stated the same info on the back of the package as titanium nitrade

    This is exactly what I got

    Last edited by ironruger; 04-04-2013 at 07:37 PM.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    call traxxas and ask them if versions came with non gold tini's?
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  16. #16
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    After you said they should be gold I have searched up and down in the web and found only these for the rear. I found the golds only for fronts

    EDIT: Just got off the phone with Traxxas. Part #2662 xx-l only come with the standard silver colored shafts. titanium shafts are supplied in the front shocks out of the box but not the rears
    Last edited by ironruger; 04-04-2013 at 08:08 PM.

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