Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700

    Welcome back build.

    Its been quite some time since I have even frequented the forums. Longer still, to actually post something up.
    Work and life took over as it seems to do time and time again. I switched to night shift. Night shift time changed. BLAH DE BLAH.
    So had a bit of extra cash and the will to start another project.
    I bought a standard slash 4x4 from a craigslist add. Ive done it before so please dont jump me for it.
    It came with two bodies and mip rear shafts. However theres a hitch. One mip shaft is missing the retainer pin and the second body was junkola.

    So mip shafts were scrapped for stockers to test run and like new shell was put on. Ran well for 5 minutes. Center shaft bearing went kaput.

    The tear down commenced. It was a fun process I assure you. Lots of sand, and the fun greasy sand to.

    So rear diff rebuilt. New center shaft, slipper clutch, covers, turnbuckels, and kings heads larger bearing carrier/motor mount later you have what I have now. A clean 4x4 with 2075 servo, spektrum 3 channel telemetry reciever, and a hobby wind sc8 120a waterproof esc powering a leopard 2700kv 4pole motor.

    Lots of things left to get. RPM arms, pinion gear, and other things.

    Pics (only ones i have not recent)



    as you can see I have enough to keep me buisy.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    Being that Ive had 0 experience with a slash 4x4, any and all opinions or suggestions for parts will be duely noted and greatly appreciated. Please keep in mind most of my builds are budget, however if its a must Ill pay for it. Like the kings heads mount.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    285
    Make sure you got good batteries for that esc.... Anything **over**
    5000mah 40c should be fine

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Parsippany, NJ
    Posts
    752
    dont replace the arms if they are not broken. rpm does not give u better performance. save ur money for stuff thats needed or will.actually make truck better. for general badhing that servo is fine. but if u hit a track its pretty lazy. servo is one upgrade that was worth it...to me. tires is another good invest. where do it run? track, gravel, street, dirt,....all the above

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    street and dirt basher. This truck is my beater, so I know the arms will be broken eventually. Espesially with this power system.
    I have good batteries for this setup. a few 4s and enough 2s to run in series.
    For now its bits and parts to get a running truck and later the upgrades.
    Thanks for the input guys.

    looking for your opinion. convert for buggy wheels or stick to stock style?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-31-2013 at 11:03 AM. Reason: merge
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. humayrayakongkinaon's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Long Beach, California
    Posts
    6,414
    go 17mm adapters, no more stripping hexes and maybe ditch the stock driveshafts and go for MIP or tekno cvd.
    | Rally GT8 Powered By CC |

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    5,986
    I'd like you to report back on that motor after you have some run time with it. I'd like to pick up a leopard for my Rally.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  8. #8
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Jacksonville Fl
    Posts
    122
    Fix those mips. They are well worth the cost to fix them. Plus If your going to run 4s or 3s those stoke drive shafts will break. my mip fronts were waiting for a part. You should have to pay no more than 20 bucks for the parts you need for your mip.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Parsippany, NJ
    Posts
    752
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger_racer View Post
    looking for your opinion. convert for buggy wheels or stick to stock style?
    I personally dont like 17mm wheels on slash because wheels too big, not proportionate. however larger tire is better for bashing. I use 2.2 wide rpm wheels with badlands. no fussing with changing hex's, proportionate, widens track a bit and larger tire. best of all worlds in my opinion.

  10. #10
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Norfolk, va
    Posts
    1,167
    Quote Originally Posted by mrhammer2u View Post
    I personally dont like 17mm wheels on slash because wheels too big, not proportionate. however larger tire is better for bashing. I use 2.2 wide rpm wheels with badlands. no fussing with changing hex's, proportionate, widens track a bit and larger tire. best of all worlds in my opinion.
    Looks like I have 20's or larger on my truck, lol.
    ERBE, ERBE, Summit, Slash 4X4, Bandit,

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Easton, MD
    Posts
    591
    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    I'd like you to report back on that motor after you have some run time with it. I'd like to pick up a leopard for my Rally.
    Another option:

    Depending on model, I think Leopard is the same as Tacon.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Parsippany, NJ
    Posts
    752
    you're 26's zepher. does look sweet tho!


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-31-2013 at 11:03 AM.

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    I actually looked at a set of xo1 wheels n tires for my 1/8 losi 8ight 2.0. for speed runs.

    I have many extra sets of wheels and tires from my losi so i half considered the conversion for slash to. Well just have to see. Might just try both.

    I plan on reviewing both the motor and esc when I get a chance to run it.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  14. #14
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    Not much progress. Havent made it to the hobby shop yet.

    Need to order many things. A pinion gear, reciever box, and some extra spur gears.
    I hope to solder connectors on to the esc this weekend when my ec5s arrive from ebay.
    Cant wait to see how wicked thie setup will be.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    New update on this build. Its rtr as of now. Its not pretty and it only has a few hours run time on it.

    First impressions of the Hobbywing/leopard 2700kv setup. This setup is rediculous compared to stock vxl. However it is quite aonther ball park. It has loads of power and is suprisingly smooth at low speeds. I ran the truck through some simple paces on level ground with low grass, high grass, and street runs. The motor was got warm, but not to hot to touch. Gearing was 16/54 on a slipper clutch setup. I have the telemetry setup for my dx3s, however I have yet to install it. Better temperature readings in the future. All testing was done on a 5000mah 4s 25-35c lipo.

    I did hit a few snags in testing, but that was to be expected.
    1. Apon rebuild of the Mip x-duty shafts, the yolk from the diff had a hair line sharp edge on it. Its hard to explain and I have no pics to show it. I had to lightly dremel the edge down so the ball and socket joint would rotate and move as it should.
    2. I have older style mip x-duty shafts, so the aluminum hexes I ordered as replacements wont fit, because the output shaft is not keyed its perfectly round. Stock ones installed for now.
    3. First drive resulted in a loss of one of the differential yolks retainer set screws. I failed to follow mips instructions of locktiteing the screws first. I was ancious to drive what can I say. However I had a T-Maxx set screw with the extended pin. This threaded in perfectly and fits through the holes. The shaft side does stick out a bit but not enough to strike anything. You could cut it but I havent at the moment.
    4. Gear mesh issues...another ancious overlook.
    5. Last but not least. The power destroyed the rear diff. I knew it was going, and tried to creep back to myself but it kept locking up. With traffic approching quickly, I made a bad decision and gunned it back...Gears toast. Which ones I dont know yet. My guess is internal spider gears.

    All in all this system performed admerably. The esc is very easy to setup with the supplied programing card/box. I have only changed the reverse to 50% and left all other factory settings as they were. Id have to look again to say what they are.
    Also setting up the esc to your transmitter is also very easy. The supplied on/off switch has a button with it for programing manually without a program card or to setup throttle/neutral/brake endpoints. I intend to change the drag brake setting to 5% and see if I like the idea of letting off and slowing only slightly. Brake function on this setup is very strong. Bottoming out the front suspension strong. The slipper was setup such that this test sesion wouldnt result in wheelies...however I have no issue saying that this would flip itself over no problem.

    Onto the pics. As you can see its not pretty, but most budget builds arent. New wheels and tires will soon be added, however the stock ones will be used for all testing purposes at the moment.



    Please feel free to ask any questions you may have on this setup. Ill have more info as I progress and get time to run the truck.
    Last edited by Ranger_racer; 04-08-2013 at 02:05 AM.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  16. #16
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    Rear differential was fine. I was a bit dismayed when I thought it was the rear diff, as I had just built it back up.
    The culprit was the two grub screws/set screws again that mip uses to attatch the yolk to the diff. output shaft.
    They had started to back off again. So i replaced it with another t-maxx grub screw with shaft.
    these....http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....vrnoi7ckk2utc5
    I ran it again today with another issue cutting me short. Another mip set screw letting go. So. both output shafts are coming off. Getting a thorough bath in grease lightning degreaser, hotwater and soap, dried and red locktite added to all grub screws.

    ESC/Motor issues did arise. However there are to many variables to consider at the time. What happens is at some points in time the truck slows to half or quarter throttle and will not go higher till I stop for a second. The truck will come back to full throttle after a quick stop...2 sec max. The motor was warm but not hot. The esc was never over lukewarm. I believe that would rule out thermal shutdown.
    It could have been that the battery wasnt fully recharged (3000mah of a 5000.)
    The system needs a bec to help out something? (2075 servo, 3300T reciever, and HW. system.)
    The reciever could be glitching because I dont have the antenna out of the box. (2.4ghz interference. Routers/ect.)

    No video yet as I dont have my go pro here at the apt. Ill do my best to get to it this week.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  17. #17
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    Got a chance to really run this setup over the weekend. I visited my cousin and tested it on most every type of terrain.
    The system acts much like my castle M.M. 2200kv at low end speeds it likes to jump and jerk a bit on the trottle. I would have to say it is close to the castle system in low speed capability, but with more bottom end grunt...most likely the difference in gearing.
    Gravel and very dusty/dry dirt conditions are fun. Lots of 4wd drifting and roster tails flying. The truck and system held up very well. Average temperature was around 90 to 95*F as we didnt run on it long.
    Next was his track. Just like any other dirt track with jumps, turns, and so on. Wetted down for our 1/8 buggies the track conditions were optimal. The hobbywing/leopard setup had no problem clearing the jumps and shredding down the back straight. I actually kept up with his RX8 powered Mugen MBX6. Temperatures hit 112 to 118. 30 minutes of racing style driving.
    Street conditions were normal. No major dusty areas or wet from rain. No idea on road temp. Just general bash n trash.
    Speeds were guestimated at 45mph but may be higher. Temps on motor got up to 125-130 after many high speed passes.

    All testing was done on a 25-30c 4S 5000mah battery. Each time it was fully charged. Temperature was taken with a cheapo infrared temp gun, so temps are close enough to get the idea.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BFE, Indiana
    Posts
    1,700
    Just another update:

    been running this truck for the past few days. Beating it mainly on pavement. I broke a front shaft, but its stock so it was inevitable. The system has performed great so far. The fan is a bit loud compared to the one on my MMM v1 esc. Not a big deal though.
    I believe the speeds on a 4s to be close to 45mph on the same gearing I started with from the begining. It is great over small gravel, track style surfaces, and street. It has to loose a suspension setup as of right now. Still factory stock and suffering from it.
    I really enjoy this setup and need to get the shock springs changed out. Its caused issues in jumps and landings are hard on everything because of slap style hits.
    Im suprized that the only broken thing is a stub axle on the front stock shaft.
    As always feel free to pm or post here any questions.
    Rustler, Bandit, Summit, Emaxx, Rally, and Alias

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •