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  1. #1
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    Slash 2wd Weak Points?

    Just bought a new Slash 2wd looking for a heads up on any weak areas.


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  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    depends on how you drive it because i have broke the rear drive shaft out put from the tranny which i upgraded to the steal yokes and another time an axle carrier. its one of those trucks u dont know what is going to break next so just get more batteries to make it all day fun and fix it when it breaks

  3. #3
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    It really depends what you crash into now doesn't it, everything breaks. I'd say the first thing you will break is a bearing carrier. Pretty much whenever something breaks, go rpm. The only thing you don't want to replace with RPM is the castor blocks, you'll bend your king pins, use aluminum, STRC or Traxxas is a good choice.
    MM|2200kv 2WD LCG Slash - MM2|2650kv LCG Slash 4x4

  4. #4
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    Main things to break will be bearing/hub carriers, a-arms, casters, hinge/king pins, and eventually everything pretty much. Durable setup would be rpm a-arms all around, TRX or STRC aluminum casters, front rpm bearing/hub carriers, rpm or aluminum rear carriers, aluminum bulkhead, aluminum bellcrank, proline or strc hardened steel pins, tekno driveshaft kit, rpm skidplates, that's pretty much a bulletproof setup and probably after 3months if you pick up parts slowly you'll have something similar to that for bashing but if racing stuff will be different in certain places

  5. #5
    RC Enthusiast
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    I broke my a-arms the first week i got my truck i would say to get rpm products because all of their products are lifetime warranty.

  6. #6
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    Broke my bulkhead the second week. Get a chassis saver. Pain in the **** to install but cheap.

  7. #7
    RC Champion
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    I broke my bulkhead and castor blocks before I broke my a arms. I also broke my rear shock tower in a flip
    Slash 4x4 LCG, Rusty VXL(not runnin), and my bike.

  8. #8
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    illinois
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    Bearing Carrier and arms have been the first to go for us. One thing to remember everything breaks easier in the cold. Well except motor doesn't get as hot in the cold. So i take that back not everything.
    Let's Get Dangerous - "DWD"

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rjm2519's Avatar
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    If you don't hit anything, you should be good! So just don't hit anything and you won't have to buy any parts!


    First parts I replaced because they bent were the kingpins and caster blocks, I went with strc because that is what my hobby shop has, never regretted it for the price. I only ever broke a rear arm when I drove my truck right into a mailbox post, it caught right on the rear tire and cracked the center brace in the arm. I never broke a front arm, I did break a couple front bulkheads hitting curbs going fairly fast. So as I said don't hit anything and you wont have to replace any parts!!
    Donít handicap children by making life easy

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. kdvanb's Avatar
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    Okay..
    Buy these parts
    - rpm a arms all around
    - rpm rear carriers
    - strc/traxxas castor blocks
    - rpm steering knuckles
    - aluminum shock caps
    Slash 2wd, Slash 4x4, 30th digger, Rustler VXL

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdvanb View Post
    Okay..
    Buy these parts
    - rpm a arms all around
    - rpm rear carriers
    - strc/traxxas castor blocks
    - rpm steering knuckles
    - aluminum shock caps
    Well, buy things as they break or wear out. I totally forgot about the shock caps... Definitely put those on when you have the chance, there is nothing more annoying than a shock spitting oil all over your truck and your day being ruined by a pesky popping shock cap.
    MM|2200kv 2WD LCG Slash - MM2|2650kv LCG Slash 4x4

  12. #12
    RC Enthusiast
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    Mar 2013
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    Upgrade to Velineon 60 or 30 mph motor. (Brushless) The titian 12t goes bad so quickly.

  13. #13
    RC Racer
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    cet a castle sct 3800 run 20/90gears powerstroke shocks and sc badlands. ben about a year nothing broke (nothing) me and my bashing buddies cant beleave how tuff this is the only thing is the boddy it tends to crack a little when you land upside down at 30 or so LOL

  14. #14
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    if you like doing jumps, consider the proline chassis saver. Transmission to chassis tabs are a weak point.

  15. #15
    RC Racer
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    I love my slash and do my kids the only weak point is the driver and how hard you beat it

  16. #16
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    i found the castors and front hub carrier my first vxl / fence meeting snapped it right off. upgraded to aluminum and havent had issues yet also the input shaft rod that links with planetary gear is pretty weak. to tight on slipper clutch with 3s lipo and lasted about 5 minutes. cant find a better source for a stronger pin so had to go with traxxas replacement one. lenghtly replacement piece by far

  17. #17
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    Axles and diff.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slither79 View Post
    Broke my bulkhead the second week. Get a chassis saver.
    I did this mod so long ago I forgot about it. It's highly recommended though.

    Also, get a set of the HD rear driveshafts for when the 2wd stock shafts break. The HD shafts are made for the 4wd Slash and fit perfectly.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  19. #19
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    I've been lucky, haven't broken anything. But i drive pretty hard, lots of parts have worn out on me. Shock shafts and seals, bearing carriers, castors, driveshafts, steering assembly, kingpins, bearings.
    If you do jumps, get a proline chassis-saver for $10. To save grief, get alum shock caps before they give out, especially if you run on a track.
    The rear bumper mount (wraps around the motor) has a little finger that pokes down from impact, either put a screw into it from the bottom or get the rpm bumper mount.
    And watch your rear hinge pins, if they come loose your rear arms or wheels may tear off. Mine back out on their own.

  20. #20
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    If your arm pins are coming out, put the one that comes out in the other way and never worry about it again.
    MM|2200kv 2WD LCG Slash - MM2|2650kv LCG Slash 4x4

  21. #21
    RC Racer
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    first thing I broke was a chassis - chassis saver is good advice but to be honest I'd say IF you have easy access to a good stockist of spares at an LHS just run and fix what breaks. If you don't and you have to wait for parts thenconsider some basic spares stock if possible


    a good "general" rule of thumb is metal on the corners, RPM plastic on the arms and RPM or metal on the towers. I did a survey of owners a while back that is still a pterry good guide to the way to go for most things - see The Traxxas Slash 2WD Upgrades Survey (FINAL Results)
    and remember search is your friend as is membership here and at URC in my opinion.

  22. #22
    RC Racer
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    After a long time of usage, you your tie rods might need to be replaced. Maybe your servo saver too. That took two years for me though. Just go aluminum when that happens. I would recommend purchasing steel output yokes #4628X.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Emaxx2.0's Avatar
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    I would just get the Lunsford titanium hinge pin kit. What causes the caster block to break is the king pin bending. Rpm flexes alot more the. Stock so it will make the pin bend easier.
    Powered by Tekin. Go Tekin or go home.

  24. #24
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    Weakest parts on the Slash? Castor blocks --- switch to aluminum. Huge weak point I'm not sure anyone mentioned yet: tires!

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