Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 53
  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64

    FrozenOne's Mini E-Revo VXL

    A few days ago my Merv was completely stock. But during the last few days i have been working on it and i just wanted to show you guys how it turned out This was the first time i have ever painted a body and i'm not really proud of the result but hwo really cares what it looks like after a few hours of bash xD it's not a complete disaster but i could have done it much better if i hadn't rushed it :P

    Here is some pics of it. Enjoy








    Parts

    Wheels - Jconcepts Rulux
    Tires - Jconcepts Goose Bumps
    Body - Proline Slipstream
    A-arms - RPM
    Front bumper - RPM
    Rear bumper - RPM
    Skid plates/Bumpers - T-bone
    Shocks & Springs - GPM aluminum
    Turn buckles & Tie rods - GPM titanium
    Rocker arms - GPM aluminum
    Wing - GPM aluminum
    Drive shafts - Integy steel cvds (i know, i know...integy)
    Knuckles - Hot Racing aluminum
    Hex - Hot Racing aluminum
    Heat sink - Traxxas aluminum
    Rocker arm bearings - The Toys



  2. #2
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Your merv is beautiful!!!!!!! I like the body!!!!

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Rotterdam Hoogvliet NL
    Posts
    886
    <<< respect >>>

    its outrageous and an awesome job is showing here

    keep us posted master

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Hamburg/Germany
    Posts
    443
    Congrats on your build! I like your paint job! You really got a clean theme running there

    Dig your tyres too. Please tell us more about them after some runtime, strongly considering them myself.
    Also interested in the durability of that alu wing..
    Last edited by CMD-J; 03-18-2012 at 04:44 PM. Reason: typotypotypo

  5. #5
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    1,395
    good job man, that's nice
    6.25% /

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Wow thank you guys i will try to keep you updated! i really hope that the wing doesn't bend but it probably will after some roof landings since its aluminum :/ i was driving it for the first time in 7 months today with my new 2s lipos but i only got to run it for about 5 minutes and then my pinion came loose and when i screwed it back on it gave me about 2 minutes more and then it was loose again so i guess i can't run it for another week or so until i get some money and can buy some thread lock to keep the pinion screw in xD
    Last edited by FroznOne; 03-18-2012 at 04:58 PM.

  7. #7
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    1,395
    just put a cloth or some paper towel around the hex key when you're tightening it, it will give you a better grip and tighten it to the max without cutting into your hand lol..
    6.25% /

  8. #8
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    I never heard of pinions coming loose lol. Do you ever plan on going BB? It would be a great way to finish your beautiful build!

  9. #9
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    1,395
    yeah I've only heard of pinions coming loose on the larger scale RCs

    put some elbow grease into it
    6.25% /

  10. #10
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Okey i will try that GULLY! but i'm really afraid of stripping the screw like i did to the previous one (the one in the 28t pinion) since the tool that traxxas gives you sucks

    Oh and yeah im planning on going BB sometime! It would be so nice to have the extra power and not have to worry about the temps

  11. #11
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Buy some better drivers man! I have dynamite ones. I believe they were $20 for a 1.5, 2, and 2.5 hex. I love them!

  12. #12
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Yeah i will have to do that :P Cuz stripping screws sucks xD

  13. #13
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Haha i know what you mean! I used the traxxas tools when i had my original revo. But this time around the dynamite drivers were one of my first buys! You can get some good cheap ones from harbor freight i believe if you are on a budget.

  14. #14
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    38
    Looks really good for a 1st time paint job & those Rims are very nice ... Good Job !!!

  15. #15
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    I just realized that you got the integy CVDs. Have you driven your MERV yet? Im curious as to how they will hold up.

  16. #16
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Thank you Uknwdeez

    Yeah i have driven it for like 7 minutes total and they are still holding up xD i'll keep you updated on how they hold up when i've had them for a while

  17. #17
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Cool man! Lots of people dont like integy. Im waiting on the traxxas CVDs

  18. #18
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Fairbanks, AK
    Posts
    175
    How come you purchased RPM bumpers, even though you have the T-Bone skid plates/bumpers? Strictly cosmetic reasons?

  19. #19
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Maybe he just wanted some extra protection!

  20. #20
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    71
    great job - very nice build and the color choice matched with the body paint - fantastic!

  21. #21
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by Makg View Post
    How come you purchased RPM bumpers, even though you have the T-Bone skid plates/bumpers? Strictly cosmetic reasons?
    Yeah mostly cosmetic resons My stock ones were so scratched so i figured, if im gonna change them why not go with RPM since as korn said it gives a little extra protection too :P

    Quote Originally Posted by CoachSteve View Post
    great job - very nice build and the color choice matched with the body paint - fantastic!
    Thank you CoachSteve!

  22. #22
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    What happens when you drive like a drunken cow...straight into a rock




    Snapped my pivotball and bent my cvd :'(
    Atleast my pinion didn't come loose today xD
    Last edited by FroznOne; 03-19-2012 at 09:14 AM.

  23. #23
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Did it crack your PB cap too? Or is that just something black coming from the threads?

  24. #24
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by korn0307 View Post
    Did it crack your PB cap too? Or is that just something black coming from the threads?
    No i didn't crack my PB its just some rubber thingy from the threads but i think i will have to get myself a set of GH knuckles cuz the hot racing ones are crap to be honest.. huge slop and if i tighten them the pivotballs doesn't move freely and lock up and that is not good for the servo and suspension :S And one of the caps didn't even have threads so i had to hot glue it into the hole. so WARNING do not buy HR knuckles xD

    Quote Originally Posted by chicguy1 View Post
    Your merv is beautiful!!!!!!! I like the body!!!!
    Thank you very much! not so beautiful now tho with the bent cvd and snapped pivotball

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Quote Originally Posted by FroznOne View Post
    No i didn't crack my PB its just some rubber thingy from the threads but i think i will have to get myself a set of GH knuckles cuz the hot racing ones are crap to be honest.. huge slop and if i tighten them the pivotballs doesn't move freely and lock up and that is not good for the servo and suspension :S And one of the caps didn't even have threads so i had to hot glue it into the hole. so WARNING do not buy HR knuckles xD
    Bummer! I dont like my hot racing rockers. 1 bent on a minor hit to the curb. They are all looks lol. And thats normal with the PB cups man! You tighten them up too much they bind. You just back them off a tad till they dont bind. And the GH PB caps are plastic and some have orings on them and some dont. They strip pretty easy so i put a some PTFT tape on them which helped a ton! So if you go GH knuckles definatly put PTFT on the caps!

  26. #26
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Aah well i'll get the GH ones and see witch are better. feels like the HR ones either binds or have huge slop (sounds crazy but that's how i experince it). nothing in between :/ And the GH ones come in blue too so it would match my theme too

    Have anybody heard anything about the GPM steel cvd's? good or bad. cuz i will need a new one since my integy bent and i will never use integy cvd's again and GPM is cheaper then traxxas cvd's.

  27. #27
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    I have heard that the traxxas ones are the only ones that hold up. I wont know till mine come in! lol. Ill have all steel drivelines! So it should be ready to take the power of my BB.

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Hamburg/Germany
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by FroznOne View Post
    Aah well i'll get the GH ones and see witch are better. feels like the HR ones either binds or have huge slop (sounds crazy but that's how i experince it). nothing in between :/ And the GH ones come in blue too so it would match my theme too .
    Hm, hm, im very happy with my HR knuckles. In fact much more happy than with my GPM knuckles, wich sports mis-cut threads and these crappy plastic caps, that always strip and they eat my inner bearings..
    But i read its at hit and miss with the HRs too. One not having a thread -bummer. You say yours bind or have slop, did you use the delrin washer/cups under the alu caps? If you set them up proper, the should allow for near zero slop. Also i found out it helps a lot for smooth operation to lubricate the threads for the alu caps and the delrin washer that faces the PB very lightly with some dry lube, like graphite. Dont use stuff that attract dirt.

    Quote Originally Posted by FroznOne View Post
    Have anybody heard anything about the GPM steel cvd's? good or bad. cuz i will need a new one since my integy bent and i will never use integy cvd's again and GPM is cheaper then traxxas cvd's
    I've read mostly not so good stuff about the GPM steel, if you you talk about the thick ones, that looks a bit like the stock plastic only in metall. GPM has a new Titanium version that are designed like the Traxxas CVDs, never read any feedback bout them yet.
    Honestly i would go with the Traxxas CVDs, they are proven to be the best and are fully rebuildable. They still bend a dogbone here and there, but these are cheap to replace and easy to get. Every store that covers Traxxas spare parts should have them, which is a huge plus too.
    Last edited by CMD-J; 03-19-2012 at 07:00 PM. Reason: misformatting

  29. #29
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Yea, the traxxas ones are only $8 to replace. And you can find them on ebay for like $45 a set on ebay.

  30. #30
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Thank you for your support guys and thanks for a very helpful post CMD-J. I will try to lube the delrin washer and see if i can get rid of the binding And if it works maybe i'll buy a new pair of em just to get one with caps that have threads

    And for the CVDs i think i'll buy a set of Traxxas. I guess they are worth the extra money and to have the ability to replace parts that break/bend sounds really good because im pretty sure that i will bend more dogbones since i haven't learned to drive properly with the lipo power yet xD (just tried my 2s so far and can barely handle them. Still got a pair of 3s waiting to get used).
    Last edited by FroznOne; 03-19-2012 at 07:43 PM.
    FrozenOne's merv total upgrades cost so far ~ 620$

  31. #31
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    I cant wait to get my traxxas CVDs! But they are still on back order at tower so it might take a little wile . Do you have to open the diffs up to install the CVDs?

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Hamburg/Germany
    Posts
    443
    Yep, but they come with very good paper printed step-by-step instructions included. Traxxas did this right.

  33. #33
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    64
    Yep you have to open the diffs :P Atleast i had to with the Integy ones and i guess it's the same with the Traxxas ones. Takes a while to install them because of that but i guess it is worth it xD I think it took me 2 hours or so but it was my first time taking my merv appart too. I hope that i can use the traxxas CVDs with the integy cups so that i dont have to open the diffs again

    Edit: Oh CMD-J was faster then me to answer your question
    FrozenOne's merv total upgrades cost so far ~ 620$

  34. #34
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    I need a reason to open my diffs anyways to change the fluid. I put 100k in my center diff today. Gonna put 60 in the rear. Not sure about the front yet. Probably 40k

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Hamburg/Germany
    Posts
    443
    Quote Originally Posted by FroznOne View Post
    Yep you have to open the diffs :P Atleast i had to with the Integy ones and i guess it's the same with the Traxxas ones. Takes a while to install them because of that but i guess it is worth it xD I think it took me 2 hours or so but it was my first time taking my merv appart too. I hope that i can use the traxxas CVDs with the integy cups so that i dont have to open the diffs again
    Second time will me much faster, the exp from doing it once really pays off, imho Always shim them when you're at it.
    Judging from your pix, the Integy butter cups will fit the Traxxas dogbones. Run them till they're gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by korn0307 View Post
    I need a reason to open my diffs anyways to change the fluid. I put 100k in my center diff today. Gonna put 60 in the rear. Not sure about the front yet. Probably 40k
    40k upfront sounds not bad, i found out running too thick in the front makes the steering sluggish. -Still waiting on my center diff.

  36. #36
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Hmmmm do you know what stock is up front?

  37. #37
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    1,395
    it's 30 k mang
    6.25% /

  38. #38
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    Hmm i guess ill stick with stock up front. Im hopping the 100K in the center diff works well.

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Hamburg/Germany
    Posts
    443
    I came to the conclusion its still witchery, dunno if black or white.. to get the right diff set-up for YOUR car and YOUR driving style and ground.
    The diff oil from my local shop is meassured in cps and you guys all talking WT and thats a completly different way to meassure the thickness -still puzzled-
    At least i ordered the center diff w/t Traxxas meassured 100K WT, see how that goes.

    Probably shouldnt think that much about it and rather drive more..

  40. #40
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    1,717
    I get team associated diff fluid. It says 100k cst

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •