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  1. #41
    RC Qualifier
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    Mar 2008
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    Gold Coast, Australia
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    392
    Quote Originally Posted by Kaiya215 View Post
    definatly dont get the Tbone bumper that snapped my bulkhead clean off where the servo screw mounts....AFTER ONE minor accident
    An alternative view is that same bumper has saved my Sons MERV at a 3/4 open throttle head on smash into a concrete wall

  2. #42
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    228
    The T-Bone parts are a good invest in my eyes.
    I had some crashes over the time in the skatepark or during some speedruns and nothing happens.

    I read in this post that the Rod Ends (7059) will fit on the GPM Push Rods?
    Im interrested in buying them, because of the less slop.
    The GPM Rod Ends arent that stable i know,but in my eyes they are a good predetermined breaking point for a cheap price.
    50 cent for breaking them instead of destroying something else?!

  3. #43
    RC Competitor
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    WV, USA
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    68
    Quote Originally Posted by Feivel View Post
    I read in this post that the Rod Ends (7059) will fit on the GPM Push Rods?
    Im interrested in buying them, because of the less slop.
    The GPM Rod Ends arent that stable i know,but in my eyes they are a good predetermined breaking point for a cheap price.
    50 cent for breaking them instead of destroying something else?!
    I think his point was the GPM rod ends break too easily and/or they're too sloppy. This is why he suggested using the Traxxas rod ends 7059 and the optional Traxxas steel hollow balls 7028x which are also superior to GPM's balls. When mtc777 gives a suggestion you can pretty much bank on it.
    __________________________________________________ _____________________________

    I ordered my T-bone set on the 1st and finally heard from them today. My order is now on back-ordered because their order has been delayed for the spacers needed to complete my kit. No eta was given.

    I assembled my center diff in the tranny today. It was awfully sticky so I hope it doesn't hurt anything. My center diff also came empty like many others have reported.

    My diffs/bulkheads have been giving me fits. Both of them have a rough place that I can't see or fix. The more I work with it the shinier the pinion gets. I think I'm just going to forget about the shims for the time being. When I try shimming I can't turn it past the rough spots.

  4. #44
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    7
    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Go for spc for batteries http://spcracing.com/index.php?categoryID=13
    28/50 is stock gearing. With a 18t it will be too slow!

    T bone is a good idea.
    I would go for the strongest affordable esc you can find
    Do all of those batteries fit?

  5. #45
    RC Competitor
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    WV, USA
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    68
    Quote Originally Posted by r1rider View Post
    Do all of those batteries fit?
    Yes but read the "Pack Dimensions" here for the 2s lipo and here for the 3s lipo.

  6. #46
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    WV, USA
    Posts
    68
    Over the weekend I dyed my chassis, stock rocker arms, LT rocker arms, antenna tube, stock toe links and push rods black. I also tried dying my springs and stock rocker bushings but that didn't go so well. I only used 1 box of dye and a large roasting pan. If I had it to do over I would use 1 1/2 boxes or 2 boxes of dye.

    This picture includes the stock black battery doors for comparison.


    I assembled my silver GH knuckles with my black RPM arms. A couple of the knuckles had rough spots where the threads were bored into where the pivot ball seats. I put the pivot balls in and wiggled them around until if felt fairly smooth. I read about putting plumbers tape on the delrin pivot caps so I did that to keep the caps from backing out.

    I also reassembled my shock in their new HR shock bodies. 50togo recommends using 3 seals and a spacer so I created an assembly picture. Please feel free to share the pic with others.

    Last edited by DialedInRC; 04-15-2013 at 06:35 AM.

  7. #47
    RC Competitor
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    WV, USA
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    68

    She cleans up nicely.

    Parts installed: GH knuckles. RPM arms front and rear. HR shocks with silver blue stripe springs and 70wt fluid. Long travel rockers. New bearings and bearings installed in the rockers and servo saver. Center diff w/100k fluid. Front and rear diffs w/60k fluid. TheToyz aluminum chassis braces front and rear.









    Here is a comparison shot of the Ofna wing OFN40906 versus the stock wing.
    How to mount. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5396508


    The T-bone set also arrived this week. I'm still waiting on my ESC and lipos. In the meantime I'll install the servo, T-bone set, shim the axles, check the toe and camber and make an 1/8" aluminum ESC mount.

  8. #48
    RC Qualifier
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    May 2012
    Location
    Slovenia
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    280
    Nice job, it looks like mine

  9. #49
    RC Competitor
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    WV, USA
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    68
    Quote Originally Posted by mtc777 View Post
    Nice job, it looks like mine
    Thanks mtc . You talked me into the black RPM arms. Mine will have plenty of blue under the body with the motor, heatsink and servo. The ESC is orange but I might strip the anodizing so it matches everything.

  10. #50
    RC Qualifier
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    May 2012
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    Slovenia
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    280
    It is nothing wrong with blue if we talk about anodized alu, but blue plastic - no thanks

  11. #51
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Auckland, NZ
    Posts
    208
    that wing is huge!
    i am not genius at aerodynamics, but i am assuming that it will provide a lot of down force for the rear? wouldn't that just add more wheelies?

  12. #52
    RC Competitor
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    WV, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaas View Post
    that wing is huge!
    i am not genius at aerodynamics, but i am assuming that it will provide a lot of down force for the rear? wouldn't that just add more wheelies?
    I think you would have to be moving at a fairly good speed for the wing to produce downforce. I mainly got it because it was tougher and larger to protect during rollovers.

  13. #53
    RC Competitor
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    WV, USA
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    68
    Just an FYI. The stock 380 brushed motor screws are 2.5x6 (I believe they are called flat head screws) according to the .pdf. They do not work with the Velineon 380 motor which needs 3x6 cap head screws. I just had to order 10 from ebay for $3.50. If you want Traxxas brand the part number is 2554 for 6 screws.

    My ESC and lipos showed up this weekend. The electronics seem to work fine on the bench and the lipos were well balanced (unlike me) .

    I'll leave you with a pic of my front end.


  14. #54
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Minnesota, USA
    Posts
    117
    your spring and shock body combo looks very nice; a couple questions for you..
    1. what did you use to strip the paint off of the springs?
    2. is there a comprehensive spring rate guide?? I'm talking about the color guide with part numbers and spring rates?? I found getting this information was less than easy at times.
    Good, Fast, Cheap; You can only have two

  15. #55
    RC Competitor
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    Mar 2013
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    WV, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by kstageberg View Post
    your spring and shock body combo looks very nice; a couple questions for you..
    1. what did you use to strip the paint off of the springs?
    2. is there a comprehensive spring rate guide?? I'm talking about the color guide with part numbers and spring rates?? I found getting this information was less than easy at times.
    Thanks for the compliment .

    Traxxas makes at least two versions of springs in the silver color. I believe they are Summit springs. Notice the "A" in the part number.

    Traxxas 7244A Shock Spring Pink, (2.77Rate)
    Traxxas 7245A Shock Spring Blue, (2.925Rate)

    They are stiffer than the stock springs. Here is a list of the various springs and their rates. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5395788

    Edit: Here are the springs from buy.traxxas.com
    Merv springs: http://buy.traxxas.com/default.php?c...57_15759_15903

    Summit springs: http://buy.traxxas.com/default.php?c...57_15849_15881
    Last edited by DialedInRC; 04-22-2013 at 11:15 PM.

  16. #56
    RC Racer
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    Nov 2012
    Location
    Minnesota, USA
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    117
    so i know you can buy the silver springs in the blue and pink, but not the purple. so will acetone strip the paint off the purple?? i would assume it would, then i would just need a clear coat then so they don't rust.... right?? or would i be better off just painting them silver with an enamel paint??
    Good, Fast, Cheap; You can only have two

  17. #57
    RC Competitor
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    WV, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by kstageberg View Post
    so i know you can buy the silver springs in the blue and pink, but not the purple. so will acetone strip the paint off the purple?? i would assume it would, then i would just need a clear coat then so they don't rust.... right?? or would i be better off just painting them silver with an enamel paint??
    I was going to strip my other springs but I decided to dye them black. Unfortunately the dye mix must have been a bit too light so I will need to re-dye my springs.

    Hopefully these links will help answer your stripping questions. Some of the methods use harsh chemicals so protect your eyes and skin.

    http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...f-springs.html
    http://www.rcsparks.com/forum/pit-ra...mins-work.html
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-metal-look%29

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