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  1. #1
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    Transforming a used brushed E-Revo into a budget brushless basher.

    I need a little help. I just bought a used 1/16th E-revo with an AM tx/rx and a brushed 380 motor. Everything seems to work fine but it needs a little tlc. My goal is to make this a budget brushless basher so I need to prioritize purchases. I just received the truck today but so far I have ordered a 380 Velineon motor and another set of shocks from ebay. I plan on using a Traxxas TQ 2.4ghz radio and receiver that I already have. I also plan on running 2s lipos single or in parallel but would like the option to run 3s. I have printed out a manual and I just wrote Traxxas about getting the exploded view PDFs because the links are dead. Please feel free to PM me any suggestions or links.

    Priorities for this build.
    1. Disassemble truck and dye chassis (and other parts?) black.
    2. What should I look for and fix while the truck is apart?
    3. I want the suspension to move smoothly with more travel. What do you suggest?
    4. Remove slop/wobble from wheels. I've read about shimming and aluminum knuckles. Anything else I should try?
    5. I need a budget ESC. The Velineon motor is 25A constant and 50A burst correct? If I can find a 1/10 Sidewinder cheap I will get it. How are the 35A brushless car ESC's from Hobby Partz? Other suggestions?
    6. Protection. T bone or RPM bumpers? How is the wheelie bar in the 4 piece T-Bone set? Can I run a combo of the T-bone brace and RPM bumper?
    7. I need budget 2s lipos that fit. I've read about the 2200mah from the popular Chinese store. Are there others that might be available in the US?

    Other miscellaneous questions.

    8. Will the screws in the stock brushed motor work in the brushless VXL motor?
    9. The manual says I have a 50T spur and 18T pinion. Will that keep the 380 Velineon motor cool?

    This will be a slow restore and build so I think that is enough for now. I will continue to search the forums as I go. I'll also try and post pics soon. Thanks.
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 03-21-2013 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Content

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Go for spc for batteries http://spcracing.com/index.php?categoryID=13
    28/50 is stock gearing. With a 18t it will be too slow!

    T bone is a good idea.
    I would go for the strongest affordable esc you can find
    Last edited by Dadx2mj; 03-21-2013 at 12:36 PM.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    2) Worn shafts, chipped ring teeth
    3) LT rockers will give more travel and bearings in the rockers will make the movement smoother
    4) Those are about all you could do
    5) I suggest at least a 60 amp... mine on 2S could run pretty much all day but got warm on 3S
    6) TBone all the way
    7) I suggest SPC... great company here in the US
    8) Yes
    9) It will, but you can gear up a little for better speed. I suggest getting a temp gun to monitor temps... they can be bought at Harbor Freight for about $15
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  4. #4
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    Aw man you should have just gone 1/10 scale electronics right off the bat! Anyways, I would suggest 80-100wt shock oil
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    380 motors are fine... they offer good power and better handling than a big block.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  6. #6
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    Yes I just like the look[IMG][/IMG]
    And the lower temps...sorry for the low light image and its also undergoing some construction right now
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Isn't that the 3800? You should run parallel batteries with that!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Isn't that the 3800? You should run parallel batteries with that!
    Yes it is...I don't think I will run parallel because I put the esc in the second battery compartment instead of flipping it sideways, so single for now!
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    Be careful with that decision... the 3500's are amp hungry and could very easily overdraw a single LiPo pack.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    That battery is only capable of providing 30 amps continuous with 40 amps burst.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    You would need probably a 5000mah battery to feed that motor(which obviously wont fit)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    You would need probably a 5000mah battery to feed that motor(which obviously wont fit)
    But I have used it fine with 4000mah lipo with only 20c
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  13. #13
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    You need at least 80-100amps cont. to supply that esc properly, that battery you posted isn't going to last very long as in lifespan and runtime, can you make a plate to cover the cut out you made, maybe with some lexan, and get that 2nd battery compartment opened back up, and I would recommend some SPC 2500 50c batts run in parallel, JMO on all of this but fact is that battery won't supply that esc with the proper amount of amperage that it needs. This will result in decreased lifespan of all electrical components including the motor, esc, and batteries. Good luck with your build and god bless.


    Sent from my iPhone 5

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the replies 50 and Jimmy. Thanks for the shock oil suggestion eschmitt4.

    The Long Travel rocker arms with bearings seem like a great idea. Are the bearings 4 x 7 x 2.5? I see conflicting info in this topic. How many do I need total? Eight? I see thetoyz is OOS. Any suggestions where I can purchase the bearings?

    I shouldn't need a 1/10th motor right? To me is seems like it would be too much power. There would also be more weight up high. Extra weight and power would mean more expensive crashes correct? That would go against the budget basher theme I'm trying to stick with.

    Here are a few "before" pics.





    Last edited by DialedInRC; 03-22-2013 at 08:03 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DialedInRC View Post
    1. Are the bearings 4 x 7 x 2.5?
    2. How many do I need total?
    3.Any suggestions where I can purchase the bearings?
    1. yes
    2. 8
    3. 2 sets of http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x7-x2-5mm-B...item3a7314c43c

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtc777 View Post
    Thanks mtc777. I order 2 sets and went ahead and ordered a full bearing set from the same place.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Sorry we did kind of hijacked your thread!
    Stock vxl motor will work great at a good price

  18. #18
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    Man i was Surprise that the 380 motor was only 27 Dollars!

  19. #19
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    subbed..
    .

  20. #20
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    Traxxas contacted me today and said they will try and get the exploded view download links fixed. The Velineon motor and shocks arrived today. The bearings have also been shipped from China.



    Do I need a different motor plate going from a 380 brushed to 380 brushless Traxxas motor? I was just looking at parts and noticed 2 different part numbers in a store (7380 and 7090).

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DialedInRC View Post
    Traxxas contacted me today and said they will try and get the exploded view download links fixed.
    Other than motor areas...the other exploded views are the same as yours.
    I'd download the ones from the brushless Revo...they should be the same as yours.

    Quote Originally Posted by DialedInRC View Post
    Do I need a different motor plate going from a 380 brushed to 380 brushless Traxxas motor? I was just looking at parts and noticed 2 different part numbers in a store (7380 and 7090).
    The 7380 is the motor mount for a 550 sized motor. the 7090 is for a 380 sized motor.

    You won't need to swap plates.
    --
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcfox View Post
    Other than motor areas...the other exploded views are the same as yours.
    I'd download the ones from the brushless Revo...they should be the same as yours.
    Thank you dcfox! Sounds like a good plan.

    The 7380 is the motor mount for a 550 sized motor. the 7090 is for a 380 sized motor.
    You won't need to swap plates.
    Good deal. I don't know what I was thinking. When I saw the brushed plate I automatically assumed it was for a 380 sized motor.

  23. #23
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    Do you think it is possible to dye the red toe links and red push rods black? I may get different links but I want a backup plan.

  24. #24
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    I was just wondering.the same thing.LOL
    --
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    R.I.P Paul Walker

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I have seen red rpm dyed black stock might work. If it gets scratched good the red will come through

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by DialedInRC View Post
    Do you think it is possible to dye the red toe links and red push rods black? I may get different links but I want a backup plan.
    Yes they can be dyed...

  27. #27
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    Great to hear they can be dyed. I was afraid they would turn out worse if I tried so I wanted confirmation.

    I ordered a few more items. I don't know a ton of stores so I ordered the 1/12th Ofna wing (OFN40906) from Amain. While there I picked up 2 set of purple springs, LT rockers, 28t pinion, diff shims, wheel and pinion shims and 60k diff fluid. The rest of my list is going to be a balance of need and wants. Here is my list sorted by priority.

    1. Aluminum knuckles. I'm thinking about going with GPM.

    2. RPM arms

    3. T-bone 3 or 4 piece. Are the wheels rubber on the wheelie bar in the 4 piece kit? If I got a single wheelie bar would the car "walk" back in forth on the rear wheels?

    4. Not sure if I should get the steel hollow balls (7028x) for the stock links or get the GPM complete steel tie rod set. If I can find a set).

    5. Do I need new pillow balls or is it the plastic that wears in the stock setup?

    6. I have a set of new stock shocks but I'm debating on getting HR shock bodies or get a [rul=http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?8956730-Review-and-installation-of-Yeah-Racing-DP-1001TI-Shock-Set&highlight=review+installation]set of shocks like Jimmie Neutron's[/url]. What are you using for shock caps on the HR shock bodies? Do the stock shock caps hold up on the HR bodies?

    7. Brushless ESC. I want a Sidewinder SV3 but a certain budget ESC fits better in the stock location and has the proper bullet size. I have no idea what size the SV3 bullets unless they are the same size as the SV2 which I think were 4.0mm.

    Other items to get (some debatable) included lipos, motor heatsink, parallel harness, DP chassis braces, and a center diff.

    Are there other priority restore items that I may be missing?

    Since my body is black, silver and blue and my motor is blue I'm thinking of continuing that theme. I'm dying the chassis and rockers black. I may strip the springs to silver. I'm having problems deciding on the suspension colors. I can dye the stock links black and the stock driveshafts are black. The steel links if I get them would be silver. Should I go with blue or black RPM arms? Blue or black aluminum knuckles? I'm thinking blue RPM arms and silver knuckles but I'm not sure.

    Edit: If I use the LT rockers can I use a complete set of links from GPM? Do the LT rockers throw off the suspension geometry? What does it throw off?
    Last edited by DialedInRC; 03-27-2013 at 07:45 AM.

  28. #28
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    1. I would suggest a pack or 2 of spare delrin caps if you go GPM, they are easy to strip.
    3. Wheels on the wheelie bar are rubber
    4. GPM steel rods are ok but ends are utter junk. Replace them with Traxxas 7059 rod ends and Traxxas steel hollow balls (7028x). You can use steel balls that comes with GPM steel rods, but I found them to be more sloppy then Traxxas (hole is bigger)
    5. No pivot balls are ok.
    6. Stock shock caps hold up on the HR bodies
    7. SV3 is just waterproofed SV2, bullet size should be the same

    IMO, you should go for black RPM arms, any other color gives the car more "toyish" look

  29. #29
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    Thanks a ton mtc777! Since GH seems as popular as GPM perhaps I should go with blue or silver GH knuckles to go with black RPM arms. I should also probably stay with the stock links and get the steel hollow balls for the time being. Both options would save time and money. Do you have any objections with using GH knuckles? I was searching and reading about them just now.

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. JimmyNeutron's Avatar
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    This is what I had when I very rarely walked away broke:

    Steel hollow balls (7028x) to reduce slop
    3M mushroom tape along battery doors to hold the body on
    Aluminum knuckles to reduce slop and add strength (I have HR but recommend GPM or GH)
    A BlueBird 390 servo due to the stock being known to fry/strip itself
    RPM a arms at all four corners (Front-80692, Rear-80602)
    Center differential (7014) upgrade to help handle the power of
    2200mah 2S 20C LiPo's ran in parallel for ~1 hour run times
    23/50 gearing gets me to ~30mph yet keeps temps in check
    Shimmed front and rear bulkheads... *LINK*

    Especially do that last part... extremely cheap preventative procedure.
    Whatever it is I just typed... could be wrong.

  31. #31
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    Have a read through my build; I'm doing the same sort of thing as you.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...rst-proper-R-C.

  32. #32
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    Jimmie, Thanks for your suggestions. I plan on getting the steel hollow balls, aluminum knuckles and RPM arms. I'm also seriously considering a center diff and will shim the front and rear bulkheads.

    Clint, Thanks, I have been following your thread and you have a nice ride. After reading about the troubles you've been having I will probably boil my bulkheads for strength when I dye my parts. I also like the idea of the TheToyz braces your using and may eventually make a set. For now I will probably get the T-bone 3 or 4 piece set for protection.

    Tonight I ordered a 60A ESC, programming card as well as a couple of 2s 2200 lipos. My internet was being worked on tonight so I disassembled part of the truck. So far the MERV seems fairly easy to work on so far. I only needed four tools (and no instructions) to get to this point.


  33. #33
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    You can save a lot of time by thumb-screwing the screws back in when disassembling instead of keeping them separate. Plastic holds them nicely.

  34. #34
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    Thanks mtc! That is a good idea.

    I did a little cleaning on some of the chassis parts. I'm going to walmart in 24 hrs. and need to add cleaners to my list.

    1. What "apartment friendly" products are good for cleaning the grease and silicone from the ring, pinion, diff and bulkhead?

    2. Would they also carry the proper electrical cleaner (contact cleaner) that may do the job and clean the bearings? Would carb cleaner work the same?

    3. I have an old bottle of Trinity purple oil. Is this a good lube for the bearings? Other suggestions?

    4. I also have Odonnell O'Lube wax lubricant. Where can I use it? Pillow balls?

    5. Is 20wt, 40wt or 50wt shock oil adequate if I use purple springs?
    Last edited by DialedInRC; 03-31-2013 at 01:05 AM.

  35. #35
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    One thing you'll absolutely need is a new metal gear servo.
    The stock one is rubbish

  36. #36
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    I probably should have grabbed a servo when ordering parts. I've already spent way too much money on this little truck so I'm hoping the stock servo lasts a while.

    I have a ton of parts coming in the next few days but it will be a while before my ESC and lipos arrive. I'll take a pic of the parts this weekend and I may post a parts list.

    I picked up some Simple Green cleaner and a bottle of CRC Contact cleaner when I was at Walmart. I also grabbed some rit dye and a basting pan.

  37. #37
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    Here is what $243.42 in parts and shipping looks like in our hobby. This doesn't include the T-bone set, ESC, programming card and lipos.



    A larger pic can be found here. http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7d1cf368.jpg

    Parts list:
    Ebay / Hobby Time RC
    1- Traxxas 1/16 E-Revo VXL Velineon 380 Motor = $26.99 (Taken from new RC)
    1- Traxxas 1/16 VXL E-Revo Front & Rear Shocks Dampers Springs = $4.99 (Taken from new RC)
    Subtotal: $31.98 USD
    Shipping and handling: $6.23 USD
    Total: $38.21 USD

    Ebay / hobbybearings
    1- Traxxas 1/16 E-Revo VXL Rubber Bearing Set ABEC-3, Item# 251038771448 = $10.50
    2- 4x7 x2.5mm Blue Rubber Seals Ball Bearings ABEC-3 , Item# 251038843964: 2 x $1.90 = $3.80
    Subtotal: $14.30 USD
    Shipping and handling: $4.50 USD
    Total: $18.80

    Amain Hobbies
    2 x Traxxas GTR Shock Spring Set (3.2 Rate - Purple) (2) (TRA7246): 2 x $3.59 = $7.18
    1 x Traxxas Long Travel Rocker Arm Set w/Plastic Bushings (8) (TRA7156) = $4.39
    1 x Traxxas 48P Pinion Gear (28T) (TRA4728) = $2.79
    1 x OFNA High Downforce Wing (Black) (CRT .5) (OFN40906) = $9.25
    3 x Team Associated Differential Shim Set .324x.409x.005" (4) (ASC21141): 3 x $1.89 = $5.67
    1 x Kyosho 4x6mm Shim Set (10) (KYO96642) = $4.59
    1 x Team Associated Silicone Differential Fluid (60,000cst) (2oz) (ASC5458) = $4.19
    Sub-Total: $38.06
    USPS First Class Mail: $0.00
    Total: $38.06

    Ebay / The Toyz
    1 x Traxxas 1/16 Mini Revo Slash Silver Aluminum Knuckle Hubs GHH05183 = $8.50 (auction)
    1 x Traxxas 1/16 Mini Revo Slash Silver Aluminum Knuckle Hubs by GH Racing GHH 05183 = $17.99
    1 x Traxxas Mini 1/16 Revo Slash Front Aluminum Chassis Brace TOYZ93 Black = $8.50 (auction)
    1 x Traxxas Mini 1/16 Revo Slash Black Aluminum Rear Chassis Brace TOYZ 94 BLACK = $12.99
    Subtotal: $47.98 USD
    Shipping and handling: $4.19 USD
    Total: $52.17 USD

    Ebay / Bizarre Hobbies
    2 x Hot Racing Traxxas 1/16 E Revo Summit aluminum shock bodies VXS15506: $6.88 x 2 = $13.76
    subtotal: $13.76 USD
    Shipping and handling: $0.00 USD
    Total: $13.76 USD

    Ebay / Hopmeuprc
    1 x Traxxas 3374 Blue Aluminum VXL Motor Heat-Sink/Heatsink = $5.74
    1 x RPM 80602 Rear Upper & Lower Suspension A-Arms(4) Black: 1/16 E-Revo New = $10.47
    1 x Traxxas 7028X Machined Steel Hollow Balls (22) = $5.95
    1 x Traxxas 1726 Antenna Tube & Rubber Cap = $1.00
    2 x Traxxas 7245A Shock Spring, (2.925Rate): $3.65 x 2 = $7.10
    1 x Traxxas 5114 Ball Bearings (2) 5 x 8 x 2.5-mm = $3.31
    1 x Associated 5459 Silicone Differential/Diff Fluid 100000 = $3.85
    1 x Traxxas 7014 Center Diff/Differential Kit = $17.41
    1 x Associated 5437 Silicone Shock Oil 70 wt/Weight 2-Oz = $3.40
    2 x Traxxas 7244A Shock Spring, (2.77Rate): 2 x $3.55 = $7.10
    1 x RPM 80692 Front Upper & Lower Suspension A-Arms(4) Black = $10.88
    Subtotal: $76.21
    Shipping and handling: $6.21
    Total: $82.42

    T-bone racing
    1 - [62033] F322-TBR 4pc Chassis Brace / B204 T-Bar set - 62033 - Traxxas 116 E-Revo = $44.65
    Subtotal: $44.65
    S/H: $4.80
    Total: $49.45


    Total items = $324.53
    Total shipping costs = $43.88
    Grand Total = $ 368.41

    * This doesn't include Rit dye, roasting pan and cleaners.

    Please take note that several brand names that were previously allowed have now been blocked by our language filter. These are brands that come from the banned website based out of Hong Kong. Discussing these products will no longer be allowed on the Traxxas forum and will be treated just like mention of the website they come from has been for some time now. We appreciate your cooperation on this in future posts. This prohibition includes not only links and references, but graphic representations as well.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 04-05-2013 at 11:58 PM. Reason: content

  38. #38
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    this car should be a beast when you get it put together
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  39. #39
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    Thanks! This is definitely no longer a budget build lol. I guess the only things left to mod would be wheels/tires, servo, stronger adjustable links, center driveshafts and cvd's. Since I'm only going to be using 2s I hope the stock driveshafts will hold up. I also plan to wear out the other parts before upgrading.

  40. #40
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    definatly dont get the Tbone bumper that snapped my bulkhead clean off where the servo screw mounts....AFTER ONE minor accident

    Traxxas has a strict language policy. A word filter operates to change inappropriate words and banned websites or brands to *s. When you see these in your post, you MUST edit them out.
    -ksb51rl
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 04-08-2013 at 10:42 PM.

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