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  1. #1
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    Cool MUG's Street Machine

    So here is my new Build Thread. Do not be fooled by the Title, this is NOT going to be a normal EMBE Street Build. I think EMAXXBRUSHLESS has the market cornered on that one already I will however reveal all in due course.

    As I have now decided to set-up and use my current EMBE as a dedicated hardcore basher, I decided that it would be nice to have something to play with in the street. As I had quite a few spares and stock parts after upgrading my current EMBE, I decided that the theme of this build would be to as much as possible use stock parts. Yeah I know, there are a ton of flashy hop-ups I could have done, but that was not what I was going for with this build.

    So here is the kick-off point for my build.....



    All the parts shown above are stock (besides the fact that the stock grey parts have been Rit Dyed Black).

    Here is were I have got to so far....

    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  2. #2
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    Good luck! So you're keepin the stock chassis?
    Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by zippogeek View Post
    Good luck! So you're keepin the stock chassis?
    Yip. It has held up on my current EMBE which has done some decent bashing (at least IMO). Sure I am not jumping cars and the like, but we get up to some pretty hectic stuff at times. If you know how to control the truck in the air and land it properly the stock chassis is strong enough (again IMO). However, as this is a street build it will not be spending any time in the air (hopefully). Only have to watch out for those impacts. For this I will have some upper chassis braces installed as per my current EMBE. Guess time will tell if it was the correct way to go, but for now, as stated, going for as stock as possible.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugs View Post
    If you know how to control the truck in the air and land it properly the stock chassis is strong enough (again IMO).
    Well count me out...I broke mine and made the jump to FLM's alu chassis.
    Make it idiot-proof and along comes a better idiot

  5. #5
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    I'm subscribed I love build threads
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  6. #6
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    Good luck Mugs ! street build seems to become more popular these days :P hehe.. I like that



    Jo
    Bones Crusher said... Bite The Dust

  7. #7
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    ^^^
    Thanks. Thought I would join you and EMAXXBRUSHLESS for the fun!
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zippogeek View Post
    Well count me out...I broke mine and made the jump to FLM's alu chassis.
    Haha yeah I'm not too bad at controlling it but ill get there. It seem my revo or Tmaxx seem easier to control but idk. Mine will get the FLM chassis! And nice build man!!! Ill be watching for updates!!

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Cool! Keep it light!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Cool! Keep it light!
    Yip. That is the plan for now. I might be singing a different tune though once I go crashing into a pavement at 60+ mph
    Last edited by Mugs; 03-17-2013 at 11:23 PM. Reason: spelling
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mike-susieq1's Avatar
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    yup usually happens with street machine monsters. I had 2 only 1 nitro and 1 electric both cars though fun but not when i crash and i knew i was going to crash but you try to think positive but when you see the car sliding toward the curb or parked car tire you cant help but bit down on your lip and hope nothing breaks then the walk over is the hardest part lol.

    Will be seeing this build come to life here. Have fun Mugs, i enjoy seeing builds come to life from just a chassis and motor
    DEU 8:18 ESV

  12. #12
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    ^^^ LOL, yeah the dreaded walk over to the scene of the crash.

    Thanks Mike, I am hoping to try something completely different with this build.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  13. #13
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    Looking good mugs. I'lle be watching your build. I would like mine a little lighter too. But Not much i can do, maybe get rid of the 1-1/2 pound rollcage. but that might not be such a good idea.

  14. #14
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    Okay, so have quite a few things on the go at the moment so don't get as much time as I would like to progress my build, but here is my Receiver set-up.



    One thing I have found with my EMBE that I bought pre-assembled is that the Receiver was stuck into the Receiver Box covering one of the screws which holds the Steering System in place which meant it was always a pain to work on or tighten up the steering. To avoid this issue in this build, I decided to make my Receiver more readily detachable from the Receiver Box, to thereby enable easy access to the Steering System Screws, by affixing it with Velcro.....



    Should make working on the steering a lot easier now.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Looking good mate.... That dyed chassis came out real nice.
    Rock n Rolla !

  16. #16
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    So fitted the Gearing yesterday. Starting point 20/58....



    Really enjoying the All Black Look....



    As previously mentioned, aim is to go stock as much as possible, but I have decided to make some exceptions where I feel it is necessary. Therefore, as I am planning on using 6s in this Rig, obviously, definitely wanted to ensure good power delivery from Transmission to Diffs and went Steel CVD's.....





    PLASTI-DIPPING AN ESC

    Well here is my Plasti-dip of the MM ESC. Yes, I know that it Voids the Warranty and Yes, I know there is a MM2 which is apparently water-proof, but since I have this ESC and since I have seen first-hand a vehicle "run away" due to moisture getting into the ESC, I wanted to make sure I prevent this from happening to mine.

    Step 1: Start with ESC



    Step 2: Gently Peel Back Stickers (you will need them looking good for when you put it back together) and use suitable tool to CAREFULLY un-clip the plastic locking tabs.



    Step 3: Ensure that ALL locking tabs are un-clipped and then remove the bottom ESC Cover. Then pull out the ESC Internals (be careful when doing this as the cooling fan is still attached to the top ESC Cover). The ESC fan can be removed from the top ESC Cover using a knife or something to gently pry it out of its' recessed housing.



    Step 4: Carefully Tape around the ESC Heat Sink (including the Top) and the Bullet Connectors as you don't want these to be coated.



    Step 5: This is actually the second time I have Plasti-dipped an ESC and a lesson learnt from the first time is to make sure you don't get the Wires Stuck to the ESC Board as this creates issues down the track when you try put the whole thing back together. For this one I just used a piece a Tape as a spacer which I removed later.



    Step 6: As mentioned, this is my second time Plasti-dipping. The first time I used the Paint-on type. This time I used the Spray-on type and I would highly recommend using the Spray-on type as I found it a lot easier to apply and use. I first Plasti-dipped the Circuit Board. Take your time doing the coatings for the best result and do not spray on too thick a layer.



    Step 7: Allow appropriate drying time between coats and generally it takes 3-4 coats to achieve proper coverage. I used some Alu-foil to protect the Fan etc. from any over-spray.



    Step 8: Make sure you cover all the bits of the circuit board, even between the capacitors and the bullet connectors. Here is how it should turn out.





    Step 9: Put it all back together and re-apply stickers and she's done.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-03-2013 at 08:53 AM. Reason: merge
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  17. #17
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    Thats a great little write up on plasti dipping your esc. Well done.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    you noticed the led's got covered by the plastidip right?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    you noticed the led's got covered by the plastidip right?
    Yes I did. The LED's are still visible through the Coating, just not super clearly. Anyone with a bit of effort can still understand which LED is blinking and how many times if it ever came to that. Have my EMBE plasti-dipped for about a year now and have had no issues. If it is really something you or someone else needs to be visible, the Coating on the LED's can be gently removed prior to re-assembly. I chose not to in this case.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  20. #20
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    that's cool, I like to put some clear silicone on the led's to keep them visible.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-Fan View Post
    that's cool, I like to put some clear silicone on the led's to keep them visible.
    Like I said, with the Plasti-dip on you can still see the lights and can judge by which "block" is lit which colour light it is, but the clear silicone is a good idea. Next ESC I plasti-dip, I might just do that.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  22. #22
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    What brand is this plasti-dip and where can it be found?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjtoed View Post
    What brand is this plasti-dip and where can it be found?
    Performix Plasti Dip is what I used.



    Not too sure about in the States, would imagine a Hardware Store or Electrical Wholesaler could have it. I am in Oz and I purchased it from an Electrical Wholesaler.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Nice write up there mate...
    Rock n Rolla !

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugs View Post
    Performix Plasti Dip is what I used.



    Not too sure about in the States, would imagine a Hardware Store or Electrical Wholesaler could have it. I am in Oz and I purchased it from an Electrical Wholesaler.
    Thanks for this. I will have to look around.

  26. #26
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    In the US most major hardware stores carry it along with some auto parts stores.
    http://www.plastidip.com/diy_where_to_buy.php
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  27. #27
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    Anyone know where to buy in Australia ?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by graham_h View Post
    Anyone know where to buy in Australia ?
    Will PM you details.

    Well have got around to doing some more to my Machine. Added Stock Bulkheads, Stock Center Skid Plate and Stock Diffs (will mention a little more on the Diffs further on in this Post).



    As previously mentioned, aiming for as Stock as possible, but somethings I won't compromise on, one of these being a single servo. So added a Savox 1258TG Servo....



    Here it is assembled. You will notice that again, deviation from Stock on the Shock Towers. Well, those of you in the know would understand my reluctance to use Stock ones, and besides, I wanted the FLM ones (which I "stole" from my EMBE) so that I could have maximum flexibility for Shock Mount Positions, especially since this is a Road hugging (hopefully ) Street Machine.






    OK. As promised a little on the Diffs. I have used Stock Diffs, 30K Front & 10K Rear, but I have them properly shimmed. I know Diffs are rather a hot topic and debate rages about their durability, but from my experience in my EMBE Mugs' embe if they are properly shimmed, and you have good throttle and brake control, both in the air and on the ground, they have little or no issues, besides when a bearing failed and sent balls through one of them.

    The secret to Diff Shimming is to understand that no two Diffs are they same and therefore there is no magical recipe for how many shims to use, but I have indicated below the possible locations and sizes of the Shims needed to Shim a Diff Properly.



    It is very much a trial and error approach as you need to mess around with the number of and position of the Shims to ensure that when assembled, the Diff Input & Output Shafts rotate freely with no binding or lateral play. I have also found an O-Ring mounted external to the Diff on its Input Shaft (where the Center Driveshaft attaches to the Diff) useful in further limiting any lateral play on the input shaft, particularly in the front.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-03-2013 at 08:54 AM. Reason: merge
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  29. #29
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    Coming along nicely mugs. Nice little write up on the stock diffs too. Hopefully be getting mine out soon for some testing. If it ever warms up around here!

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    looking good, great posting on the shims

  31. #31
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    Thanks Guys. This is still the easy part being mostly stock so far. Currently wrestling with getting what I want to do next to fit and work.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  32. #32
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    Been busy with a few other things lately so progress currently slow on this build.

    Got around to mounting up Steering System and Receiver Box et al......





    Had the stock steering dogbone break on me in my other EMBE, so decided to have a go at beefing this one up with a piece of stiff wire superglued in as a reinforcing beam, then painted black. Guess time will tell how it holds up.....

    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  33. #33
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    Im curious as to what your wrestling with. Any hints?

  34. #34
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    Ha ha. Yeah, think I have got on top of most of the 1st round of issues I have in trying to marry up a completely non-embe related arm and driveshaft set-up to the embe "roller" detailed so far in this thread. Just got to actually go about connecting it in so I can snap some pic's and document it here.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  35. #35
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    Sounds like fun. Somthing different. Look forward to some pics.

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    No matter how light you try to go with a maxx they are just to heavy for fast street driving. That's why I have two mervs for the street
    Hard to believe my little merv will stomp a big maxx in a drag race . running 3s batteries or I could even use 4s for speeds hitting close to 80 .my maxx is sitting collecting dust after 5 weeks of sitting

  37. #37
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    ^^^^
    I hear you. Have heard good things about the Mervs. May have said this at the beginning of this thread, but there is some method to my madness with this build.

    I know that there are quite a few better platforms on which to base a street machine, but the biggest reasons I am using the EMBE platform is that I had all these spares sitting around doing "nothing" and second because probably the most important thing I have come to realise in my time owning these RC Rigs is that it is really hard to try set your truck up to be good at everything (bashing, off-road, street etc.) which is why I converted my running EMBE to a dedicated basher and why I am trying to build a rig dedicated purely for on-road purposes. Also as previously stated, this will not be a pure EMBE build as I am trying to build something that as far as I am aware no one else has done before, just have had so many other things going on lately that this project has kind of taken a back seat. My rigs have like yours been sitting collecting dust the last month or so. Should however be able to dedicate some time to this one in the coming week so hopefully I can get this one off the ground soon.
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

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