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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Rustler upgrades??

    Alright so I have a xl rustler (electric) and I was wondering what you guys think I should get for upgrades?
    Brushless motors? I wanna get the Mamba max
    Li-po batteries? I was looking at a 11.1 5000 25c 3S venom
    Will I need steel gears? That sort of stuff.
    Basically any upgrades that I would need to run a mamba max 3S.

    I will mostly be doing bashing and once I learn this motor and how it works and what I can do I will be trying to get into racing!

    Budget around 475$

    Also the website I have been looking at to purchase everything is TowerHobbies, is there any better ones?


    What it looks like right now, not going to keep it like this
    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-22-2013 at 12:32 PM.

  2. #2
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    Better shocks, RPM A-Arms, RPM Shock towers and 2.8" tires were on my list. I have had less parts break on this car than any other Traxxas I have.
    --
    Nitro-J-Rod

  3. #3
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    Anything else? I like how are names are almost the same.

  4. #4
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    Ive been looking at bigbore shocks too.
    Would this be ok to have for bashing? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBWSH&P=0
    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-22-2013 at 12:53 PM.

  5. #5
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    I broke the plastic gears in my bandit in less than 10 minutes running 3s.
    Pull your Trans apart and see if its steel or plastic before purchasing the gears.

    I also bought the rpm transmission case,
    ERBE, ERBE, Summit, Slash 4X4, Bandit,

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowpokerodriguez View Post
    Ive been looking at bigbore shocks too.
    Would this be ok to have for bashing? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBWSH&P=0
    No. Stay away from integy, and stay away from lots of aluminum.

    The only aluminum parts I recommend for a rustler are:
    Front caster blocks
    Rear carriers
    Transmission (aluminum plate, like with the RPM model)
    Shocks
    Steering linkage (all you really need are the bearings)

    STRC and Traxxas aluminum parts are some of the best.
    Otherwise RPM is great. Their A-arms, front bumper, shock towers, rear bumper, and transmission are all great upgrades. The transmission gives you an aluminum motor plate and optional 3 degrees of toe-in. The rustler benefits a lot from toe-in.

    I run a castle MMP and 3800kv motor. That's about all the truck can handle without being uncontrollable.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowpokerodriguez View Post
    Ive been looking at bigbore shocks too.
    I'd save some money and just upgrade the ultra shocks with TiNi shafts and aluminum caps. Put your cash toward brushless and lipo, IMO. Granted, the difference between upgrading the Ultras and going with big bore is only about $10-$15 if you shop around.

    I'd upgrade the caster blocks with either Traxxas or STRC aluminum.

    The only aluminum on my Rustler XL5 is the caster blocks and the shock caps. Anything else that breaks I've replaced with RPM. I've broken caster blocks and steering blocks. I stripped out the shock mount screw hold in the front shock tower so that was replaced with RPM as well. My 8 year old does most of the driving, or did until we got the Slash, and the Rustler has seen some hard crashes. It's very, very durable!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jws1982 View Post
    No. Stay away from integy, and stay away from lots of aluminum.

    The only aluminum parts I recommend for a rustler are:
    Front caster blocks
    Rear carriers
    Transmission (aluminum plate, like with the RPM model)
    Shocks
    Steering linkage (all you really need are the bearings)

    STRC and Traxxas aluminum parts are some of the best.
    Otherwise RPM is great. Their A-arms, front bumper, shock towers, rear bumper, and transmission are all great upgrades. The transmission gives you an aluminum motor plate and optional 3 degrees of toe-in. The rustler benefits a lot from toe-in.

    I run a castle MMP and 3800kv motor. That's about all the truck can handle without being uncontrollable.
    Would all this be fine?
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWVT1&P=7 - gear box
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTYW2&P=ML - Caster blocks
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTPP6&P=7 - Rear carriers
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRTT9&P=7 -Sterring linkage
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAETU&P=ML -Motor
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZDV9&P=0 -Lipo
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXYS4&P=7 -Shocks
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPRE9&P=ML -A-arms front & back.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEV91&P=ML-Bumper
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVVP0&P=7 -Gear cover
    Anything else?

    What bearings do I need to get? I still have everything stock so it has bushings.

    Tires??

    and I have the xl-5 so would I need to change any of the gear box gears??
    I just bought this xl -5 this year.
    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-22-2013 at 02:04 PM.

  9. #9
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    I just bought a VXL Rustler last night and the only things I upgraded at time of purchase were RPM wide front bumper, a arms all around and the blue trans case with the 3 degrees of toe in ..... The stock shocks on the rustler are poop, I'd go with either the traxxas big bore shocks or the proline power strokes.... you can find both really cheap on ebay...

  10. #10
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  11. #11
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    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDBCG&P=ML this is the tranny case you should get..selections above that I would not buy : the rear carriers,the lipo, the shocks, and you can just get stock bearings and for your rear carriers and you could just get these instead of those integy ones : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=SM&I=LXNY90
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by eschmitt4 View Post
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDBCG&P=ML this is the tranny case you should get..selections above that I would not buy : the rear carriers,the lipo, the shocks, and you can just get stock bearings and for your rear carriers and you could just get these instead of those integy ones : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=SM&I=LXNY90
    So what would you get for a lipo and other upgrades?
    and with the Alum gear box I heard you can drop motors temps 30


    If anyone wants to, could you make me a parts list on TowerHobbies.com with everything that I would need to run with the max mamba.
    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-22-2013 at 02:57 PM.

  13. #13
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    Yes the aluminum gearbox is good for that the rpm one is just a little cheaper and probly lighter as well...for a lipo I would recommend an spc 5000mah and...hard case lipos are nicer than soft case ones because they are more durable as well
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  14. #14
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    I'm looking on TowerHobbies now and most of the Lipos they have are soft case :/ unless I go with a 2s.
    I plan on buying everything from one place, so if anyone has a great website please let me know.

    also if someone would still like to put together a parts list for me that would be great!
    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-22-2013 at 04:36 PM.

  15. #15
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    Does this fit on the rustler too?
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXDU0&P=ML

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowpokerodriguez View Post
    Yes the big bore shocks will fit
    You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!

  17. #17
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    Thanks for the info bud.
    I just got done taking apart pretty much everything that way when my new parts come in I will be ready!

  18. #18
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    Get the rpm front bumper, ive gone full speed with a mamba into a curb with no damage with it

  19. #19
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    Already in the cart!
    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-22-2013 at 08:55 PM.

  20. #20
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    Also I heard with 3s lipos I'm going to need to replace the drive shaft with a aluminum ones?
    Someone help me out here.
    Would this be ok?
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...VEA9&P=ML#tech
    If this is not what I need place link me what I need.
    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-22-2013 at 10:20 PM.

  21. #21
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    You're determined to spend your entire budget! Yes, those drive shafts will fit per the description.

  22. #22
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    That's the game plan.
    Also I have been reading around and people are saying those drive shafts suck.
    Does anyone have any options?

    Also when you buy the max mamba from lets say towerhobbies, does it still come with the usb cable and cd?

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAETU&P=SM
    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-23-2013 at 12:41 PM.

  23. #23
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    Tower is good with their descriptions. The product description from your link says the programming software is not included and that the Quick Field Programmer and the Castle Link Quick Connect are required so I would take them at their word on that.

  24. #24
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    :/ Thanks bud, someone was telling me that it still came with it.
    So its better to just get it from castle then or would it be better to just go ahead and get the card and quick link?

  25. #25
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    My friend bought the mmp a few weeks ago and it didn't come with the castle link.
    The quick connect is just a special y-cable that allows the field card or the USB adapter to plug into the esc without removing the esc wire from the receiver.
    ERBE, ERBE, Summit, Slash 4X4, Bandit,

  26. #26
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    Buy from where you pay the least. Tower has a membership deal where you save $50 on orders over $300 and get free shipping. The annual membership goes for $10, the cost of regular shipping so shipping fee is a wash on the first order. I buy mostly from a couple of ebay sellers and I go to the LHS when I can. That trip is about $8 in gas so it's usually less expensive for me to buy online but then I'm not trying to burn through a $475 budget!

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zepher View Post
    My friend bought the mmp a few weeks ago and it didn't come with the castle link.
    The quick connect is just a special y-cable that allows the field card or the USB adapter to plug into the esc without removing the esc wire from the receiver.
    Alright thanks man for the info. So all I really need is the card then??

    Also I heard that you have to take out the back plate for a lipo battery to fit?
    True??
    and that I would need to cut into the side for the new max mamba esc so it will fit??
    Info on this would help alot!
    Thanks for all the info so far everyone!!



    ughhh so ready for new parts

    Last edited by slowpokerodriguez; 02-23-2013 at 04:51 PM.

  28. #28
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    The lipos that I use in my Rustler are 138.5mm long and they fit. It's tight but they fit. You'll need to remove that foam though. If you go longer you'll need to cut out that piece.

    I run the Traxxas Velineon system so I don't know what you'll have to do for the MMP ESC. There's a thread on the forum showing the MMP ESC in the chassis with no cutting. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Rustler-Build

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by altidude View Post
    The lipos that I use in my Rustler are 138.5mm long and they fit. It's tight but they fit. You'll need to remove that foam though. If you go longer you'll need to cut out that piece.

    I run the Traxxas Velineon system so I don't know what you'll have to do for the MMP ESC. There's a thread on the forum showing the MMP ESC in the chassis with no cutting. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Rustler-Build
    Thanks for the info.
    So I'm guessing ill have to get the traxxas connector for the mamba??
    I'm looking in the tech notes now and dont't see anything about it coming with them??

    I have almost have everything I need in the cart :P just a few more items.
    I will be posting everything I have in the cart once I have everything needed.

  30. #30
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    My LiPos fit, albeit tight, in my VXL with no issues. I'm thinking of looking for a way to move the steering servo forward a hair and moving the battery up if at all possible

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  32. #32
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    Also do I need alum casters are is it just recommended??
    Could I go with RPM casters?

  33. #33
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    Aluminum are strongly recommended The RPM ones will allow the screw pins to bend, throwing your alingment out of whack.

    If you don't mind replacing the pins then the RPM ones will be fine.

  34. #34
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    Aluminum are strongly recommended The RPM ones will allow the screw pins to bend, throwing your alingment out of whack.

    If you don't mind replacing the pins then the RPM ones will be fine.

  35. #35
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    Alright thanks for the info bud.

    What bout alum turnbuckles, Do I really need those or can I stick with the stock ones???

  36. #36
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    Mine is extremely old and has the solid lplastic ones on the front and I am replacing them with the aluminum ones

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowpokerodriguez View Post
    Alright thanks man for the info. So all I really need is the card then??

    Also I heard that you have to take out the back plate for a lipo battery to fit?
    True??
    and that I would need to cut into the side for the new max mamba esc so it will fit??
    Info on this would help alot!
    Thanks for all the info so far everyone!!



    ughhh so ready for new parts

    The MMP will fit nicely in the side of the rustler chassis. You may have to sand down a little of the protruding plastic, but not much.

    I cut the esc plate down to just the part with the screws, then installed my power switch in that. It also acts as an upper plate to strengthen the chassis. Check it out.


  38. #38
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    Nice trick with the switch, I have been trying to figure out something to do with it

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowpokerodriguez View Post
    What bout alum turnbuckles, Do I really need those or can I stick with the stock ones???
    I'd go with the stock VXL turnbuckles. Go to Traxxas and download the exploded drawings for the VXL front and rear because you'll need different screws than you have in the XL5 to mount them properly. Maybe the aluminum kit comes with all hardware but I don't know.

  40. #40
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    You should also change out the chassis too, it has way to much flex in it. Towerhobby has a few options. Then swap out the diff with HR sealed diff. Great for easy tuning, just got mine and will install soon.
    I got skills!

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