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Thread: Rear Shocks!!!

  1. #1
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    Rear Shocks!!!

    So i have a used 2wd slash and it came with integy rs9 piggyback shocks(not my first choice of shocks). I threw 45wt oil in the front and rear. The front is great i wouldnt change a thing. The back is junk... They sag and are not very springy(even without the battery installed). i have twisted the shock spacer to its max so the spring would be as compressed as possible and it is still sagged. I threw on the stock rear shocks to see if those helped out at all and there about the same if not worst. I really want to buy the proline shocks all around but if they do the same thing i wont be happy. Will this be a good upgrade? Are the shocks that come with the prolines stiff?

    Does anyone else have issues with slash being really back heavy?

    One of my thoughts was that maybe the rear hinge pins were worn and not allowing the rear a arms as freely as they should?

  2. #2
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    Check your driveshafts for binding. If you have the plastic sliders they're known for collecting dort and sticking.

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  3. #3
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    i have brand new mip CVD 's so i dont think those are binding... if they were the stock drive shafts i would definitly say that was a problem.

  4. #4
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    Oh ok. Don't really have anymore ideas to what could be causing your problem but I do have an idea for finding a solution. Do you know anyone else running a slash that dosent have this problem? Just meet up when them and ask to try their rear shocks on you truck. You don't have to drive it with them, just see if your ride height is the same as the truck the shocks came off of. If it is, then the problem is your shocks, if not you'll have to keep looking about at least you'll eliminate the shocks from the puzzle.

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  5. #5
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    Check your hinge pins, the gap between the arms and the tranny, your shocks' shafts, and maybe try some different springs. Also make sure your shocks are full enough. The shafts should rebound even without springs on them. (When off the truck.)

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  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Remove the rear shocks (at least from the a-arms). Raise the truck off the ground or put on a stand and move both rear a-arms all the way up. If they don't fall back to fully extended with no resistance, you need to start checking all your pivot points for binding. Since you have cvd's, the remaining possible problem areas will be your inner hinge pins, outer hinge pins, camber link ends, and upper shock mounts. If the arms fall freely when once you raise them up, the issue is in the shocks themselves.

  7. #7
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    Like others said check for binding in a arms bent shock shafts if alls fine just get stiffer springs.

  8. #8
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    Like abyss said if everything is fine then get stiffer springs. If not get the powerstrokes....I have them and race with them on a very large clay track and even in stock form are very very good. No problems with sag and I beat mine to death. On a practice day I put over 100 laps and I race 2 times a week maybe 60 ish laps on both days so I do over 150 laps of hard driving with them and I've yet to have a problem.
    2wd slash, PL LCG, CC 3800, Powerstrokes, S6040

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I must say,after you use them a while,and find out how well they work,it make's the cost a bit easier the swallow.
    If they out last a lesser priced shock two to one,there not as expensive in the long run.
    Quote Originally Posted by TheDonJuan View Post
    Like abyss said if everything is fine then get stiffer springs. If not get the powerstrokes....I have them and race with them on a very large clay track and even in stock form are very very good. No problems with sag and I beat mine to death. On a practice day I put over 100 laps and I race 2 times a week maybe 60 ish laps on both days so I do over 150 laps of hard driving with them and I've yet to have a problem.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  10. #10
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    I recently went through a similar issue with my 4x4....Turnbuckle hollowballs were WAY too tight and keeping the suspension from flowing freely. I had to take the turnbuckles off, put a long screw through the hollow ball, lock it down with a lock nut, put the screw in a drill and spin the hollowball while holding the rod. Adding a little bit of graphite and working it around freed up the rod ends and now my suspension is like butter!

    Lots of work but if you are into cars like I am - its time in the garage WELL spent!

  11. #11
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    Thanks guys i think my hinge pins are junk. I lift my a arm all the way up and it stays there haha.... So i got the strc hinge pins and the blue +20% rear springs. If it still sags this bad after that then so be it

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. harry697's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bazookal07 View Post
    Thanks guys i think my hinge pins are junk. I lift my a arm all the way up and it stays there haha.... So i got the strc hinge pins and the blue +20% rear springs. If it still sags this bad after that then so be it
    That's most likely your problem. Do yourself a favor and investigate a little further though. Remove the camber link from the hub carrier and see if the carrier pivots freely on the outer hinge pin. If not, you'll need outer hinge pins too. Then remove the outer hinge pin that holds the hub carrier to the a-arm. Try lifting the arms and dropping them again. If the arms still stay up in the air, that will pin point the issue to the inner hinge pins.

    It would also be a good idea to make sure the rod ends on the camber link move freely while you have them disconnected from the hub carrier.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    You're going to like those STRC hinge pins, I put them on all my trucks. BUT I also ream out the pin holes with a drill bit to clean up the hinge holes (on new A-Arms) so they swing freely.

    Yours may be worn in enough though that they don't bind, but I'd do Harry's trick with the new pins.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  14. #14
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    Yeah i am going to take it all apart and ream out the a arms. I already replaced the camber links so they should move freely but ill check those to. Thanks guys

  15. #15
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    they shouldent and you could get the prolines for the rear and it should be fine

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