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  1. #201
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    Clamp style will probably work fine.
    Those might work. If you have a dremel you could cut a groove in it for a flat head

  2. #202
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    We have one in the garage but I don't trust myself with it. :P
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  3. #203
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    This will work with my servo too right? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rvo-Horn-Black I like how it has two screws to hold the clamp..
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  4. #204
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    Yeah that would work, you can get it a bit cheaper on ebay.

  5. #205
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  6. #206
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    So I ran the truck today everything is good except my spur is missing a tooth good thing I'm switching to my 54 tooth spur. One question how do I get the spur off if it's in the cutout? Also anyone run 18/54 before? Better than 18/65 right?
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  7. #207
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    unmesh the motor or take it clear off, then take the three screws out of the spur. Slide the spur off, might be easier to slide the bearing out of the spur to get spur off..

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5105092

    18/54 & 2/2s is a good start for gearing.....
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  8. #208
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    Well wonderful, I hate motor mount screws. I had a stripped one on my slash now here..........
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  9. #209
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    Only way to do it. Its a pain but what are you going to do!
    You could go taller on the gearing but should run cool

  10. #210
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    Well I got the spur off but I was gonna adjust the motor on the motor mount so the wires don't hit the ESC, got one screw out and the other screw is stripped. I'm like a raging ball of fire right now. Stripped screws are really getting to me..
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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fr8cture View Post
    So I ran the truck today everything is good except my spur is missing a tooth good thing I'm switching to my 54 tooth spur. One question how do I get the spur off if it's in the cutout? Also anyone run 18/54 before? Better than 18/65 right?
    Youch 18/65 on 4s must be slow as molasses lol I thought 18/54 was slow.. But ya 18/54 is fine on 4s I'm gonna do 20/54 I have lst2 diffs which is good for about 2 teeth pinion
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  12. #212
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    Losi diffs is more like 4 teeth
    Punch it into the speed calculator and use losi diff instead of revo
    Which screw did you strip?
    Last edited by 50togo; 03-23-2013 at 11:28 PM.

  13. #213
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    I would suggest a good set or hex tools they will save a lot of stripped screws and sore hands I use dynamite tools but there are many brands to choose from
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  14. #214
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    I am running 21/54 right now and after a good bash have yet to see motor temps above 101F. Grant it it is only 55F here now. I hit mid 40s with that gearing.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Losi diffs is more like 4 teeth
    Punch it into the speed calculator and use losi diff instead of revo
    Which screw did you strip?
    One of the screws that holds the motor onto the motor mount. I really would like not to dremel the screw and scratch the crap out of my motor mount. Already did that once...
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  16. #216
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    Use a 1/8 drill bit and drill until the head of the screw pops off then unscrew the threaded portion with a pair of pliers just my 2 cents
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  17. #217
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    Sounds risky.

    Also is Stanley tools not good?
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  18. #218
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    if it's the head of the screw get a set of these http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN2904 they have a hardened tip

    i also use a these craftsman easy outs run it of a dewalt driver and pulls it right out
    Last edited by 50togo; 03-23-2013 at 11:27 PM.

  19. #219
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    That's the set I have and you can buy additional drivers for any size and its not risky safer that going to town with a dremel
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  20. #220
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    I guess I dont understand if I drill the screw and the head pops out do you mean the screw comes slightly unscrewed or the head brakes off the screw? Also looks like my LHS carries those drivers. I just got a dynamite servo arm from there today, too bad they are closed on Sundays. Monday it is then.
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  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fr8cture View Post
    I guess I dont understand if I drill the screw and the head pops out do you mean the screw comes slightly unscrewed or the head brakes off the screw? Also looks like my LHS carries those drivers. I just got a dynamite servo arm from there today, too bad they are closed on Sundays. Monday it is then.
    The head comes off leaving the threaded portion sticking out which you remove with pliers there's no tension on the screw anymore because the head isn't pressing against the plate anymore ...... If your not comfortable you could grind a flat grove in the head and use a flat head screw driver to unscrew it
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  22. #222
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    better to get an easy out any decent hardware store should have them

  23. #223
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    Haha or that lol prolly gonna be your best bet
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

  24. #224
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    if you ever have a tight screw that is Loctited.. put some heat to the screw.. solder iron or something, will help break loose the screw without stripping the head, & a good allen head too.....

    if you drill the head off the screw there should be a little left of the screw. then just take vise grips or pliers & screw the rest of the screw out.. after a little heat.....
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  25. #225
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    Get a set of tony's screws for your revo also. Best out there!

  26. #226
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    I have no idea if it was loctited. I doubt it since the other screw was not loctited.
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  27. #227
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    stuck screws Loctite or rusted....heat will help break loose stuck bolts & screws...

    larger bolts you use a lot of heat & WD-40 to get them to break loose........
    Last edited by 87 GN; 03-24-2013 at 12:38 AM.
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  28. #228
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    Even a hair dryer might help!
    With good tools and good screws you won't have a problem

  29. #229
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    I have a feeling its the screws...
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  30. #230
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    better screws then is in order i know i want to get some those are on my wish list some tony's screws for both my emaxx and merv and whatever rc next i get. i had stripped screws and used brand new tools for them too that i just got and bam stripped mad me mad but i dermeled the screw head for a flat head and got it out still better screws are in order
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  31. #231
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    I decided to keep it on the motor mount until I can get some new screws. Went and ran it today man does that make a change going from 65 to 54. Too bad my gear mash was too tight and my Spur is completely stripped. Guess I gotta get a new one tomorrow.
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  32. #232
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    you know i ended up using other screws i had left over from my nitro's lol worked out fine too if i had the right size though which i used to mount my motor on
    DEU 8:18 ESV

  33. #233
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    these are some of my spare screws!

  34. #234
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    I got a bag of screws that came with my STRC LCG slash chassis that I've been using for random screws I loose. They seem to be of higher quality but not rust proof. I also just got my red shock bodies and red pushrods. They came yesterday I guess but nobody checked the mail. lol
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  35. #235
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    Anyone know what body this is?
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  36. #236
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    looks maybe like a platinum revo body?
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  37. #237
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    Close but it doesn't have the top hoodscoop and on the sides the platinum doesn't have the indent.
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  38. #238
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    humm i even looked at the proline slipstream and its not that either funny looks in between each of those. maybe someones custom body design? im at a lose right now on that.
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  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike-susieq1 View Post
    humm i even looked at the proline slipstream and its not that either funny looks in between each of those. maybe someones custom body design? im at a lose right now on that.
    I know the guy customized it but thats just the wire mesh and leds.
    Also I'm about done with the hot racing rockers, waste of money.
    Last edited by Fr8cture; 03-25-2013 at 12:05 AM.
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  40. #240
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    I had a screw issue. The hobby shop didn't have a screw removal kit, and I didn't know they came small enough. He heated the part with a soldering iron to melt the locktite then dremeled the screw and used a flathead to remove it. There was some carnage, but the threads are still functional.
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