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  1. #721
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    True never though of it that way. But it does dull Down after awhile because of the sand hitting it.

  2. #722
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    There are 2 trucks that look close to the same. They were brothers and they both built a truck. They both sold there trucks when I was building mine like 3 years ago. There is one with the grey paint and black spots and that blue one used to be solid black until the new owner bought it. Also Powder coat will hold up fine if you always have the body on, I figured you wouldn't always use the body. At most you will have small wear marks here and there. But there is no such thing as paint that doesn't scratch or wear down. Also you can tell that isn't powder coated, there are run marks and powder coat doesn't run because it is baked on powder.
    Last edited by 96motorhead; 02-13-2014 at 07:44 PM.

  3. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    The motor mount is the only thing holding it, it just kinds floats there. Here's a good pic of the setup:


    Could you show how the motor and gears are assembled? this would be my 1st electric motor, and what gearing and should i use 2s, i dont want over heating issues and how is your esc mounted? i was told to use Velcro.


    I have the castle 3800kv SCT kit Thanks

  4. #724
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    There are 2 trucks that look close to the same. They were brothers and they both built a truck. They both sold there trucks when I was building mine like 3 years ago. There is one with the grey paint and black spots and that blue one used to be solid black until the new owner bought it. Also Powder coat will hold up fine if you always have the body on, I figured you wouldn't always use the body. At most you will have small wear marks here and there. But there is no such thing as paint that doesn't scratch or wear down. Also you can tell that isn't powder coated, there are run marks and powder coat doesn't run because it is baked on powder.
    Thanks for explaining that, I had no idea there were two. I'm going to powder coat mine and put at least 3 layers of clear coat over it. That should give it a nice shine and protect it a lot better. But I also wanted to coat the entire rear frame. I've wanted it green for a while now but had no good way to do. It might be a little bold to try, but it's the only way it'll look right with the cage green.

    While I'm at it, would it be crazy to do the whole truck out of chromoly? I made a wood model and it looks sweet. I love the idea and look of it but mounting things and getting to the battery would be a pain...
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  5. #725
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    Thanks for explaining that, I had no idea there were two. I'm going to powder coat mine and put at least 3 layers of clear coat over it. That should give it a nice shine and protect it a lot better. But I also wanted to coat the entire rear frame. I've wanted it green for a while now but had no good way to do. It might be a little bold to try, but it's the only way it'll look right with the cage green.

    While I'm at it, would it be crazy to do the whole truck out of chromoly? I made a wood model and it looks sweet. I love the idea and look of it but mounting things and getting to the battery would be a pain...
    Honestly I would just keep the platform you have now. It looks like it is working well for you, once you find something that works you should stick with it. I was constantly changing things on mine at first and it took about a year to get it to work perfectly and to sort out the bugs.

  6. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    Honestly I would just keep the platform you have now. It looks like it is working well for you, once you find something that works you should stick with it. I was constantly changing things on mine at first and it took about a year to get it to work perfectly and to sort out the bugs.
    I agree what you're saying about changing things, but I think this change is necessary. It's pretty heavy now and adding the front cage will be like driving with two extra lipos. That's the biggest thing, but I also need the rear end of the truck to be green and it would be much easier to do it with the whole thing tubing. Not to mention it would look it would sick! But I could always go back so I'm not too worried. I'll figure out the rest as I go. But I am going post a pic of the model cage when I get in front of the truck.
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  7. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    Could you show how the motor and gears are assembled? this would be my 1st electric motor, and what gearing and should i use 2s, i dont want over heating issues and how is your esc mounted? i was told to use Velcro.


    I have the castle 3800kv SCT kit Thanks
    I'm not sure if you figured it out yet, but I'll try to help. The motor mounts onto the gold piece you see in the picture. It attaches to that with two screws (make sure you use locktite). Then that piece will slide into the larger part of the motor mount. It slides for you to adjust your gear mesh, then you can tighten it down with the top screw. Not sure what else you may need me to explain, but I hope that answers you question. I'm using a 13t right now and it's perfect with no heating issues. My esc uses a mounting plate for easy removal, but if you didn't want that I would use Scotch outdoor double-sided tape.

    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Plate-XL5-ESC.
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  8. #728
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    Ok here are the pictures I promised. The only thing keeping me away from doing this was the whole battery mounting issue. But now that I can found a good spot for it I think I'm ready to do this. After looking at it again, I'm thinking this is going to work out well. I still have to add the spot where the shocks will mount, but besides that this is what it would look like. What do you guys think?

    I have the old chassis on there for reference:






    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  9. #729
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    Wow that looks incredible! It should be really awesome when it's done you might wanna add a couple diagonal bars behind the battery for extra support, but I could be wrong...
    "That don't make NO sense!"

  10. #730
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    [QUOTE=seanycool;5655904]Wow that looks incredible! It should be really awesome when it's done you might wanna add a couple diagonal bars behind the battery for extra support, but I could be wrong...[/QUOTE
    +1 deffinatley more support there and then some added support to where the extra tires go to and In the hole area where the two side panels meet maybe another peice that runs width wise. Maybe you could make the place where the battery goes and make it wider so the battery fits in side and then have tubes that go under the battery and have metal pieces on the pieces that go under there so you can easily mount the Velcro and also have the battery at an even lower center of gravity. Idk I'm just typing what I am thinking.

  11. #731
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanycool View Post
    Wow that looks incredible! It should be really awesome when it's done you might wanna add a couple diagonal bars behind the battery for extra support, but I could be wrong...
    Thanks Seany you're right, it definitely should have supports there. I just ran out of dowels so I did what I could.

    [QUOTE=Wakesurfer98;5655947]
    Quote Originally Posted by seanycool View Post
    Wow that looks incredible! It should be really awesome when it's done you might wanna add a couple diagonal bars behind the battery for extra support, but I could be wrong...[/QUOTE
    +1 deffinatley more support there and then some added support to where the extra tires go to and In the hole area where the two side panels meet maybe another peice that runs width wise. Maybe you could make the place where the battery goes and make it wider so the battery fits in side and then have tubes that go under the battery and have metal pieces on the pieces that go under there so you can easily mount the Velcro and also have the battery at an even lower center of gravity. Idk I'm just typing what I am thinking.
    You're both right about it needing more supports. That spot is a major strength area, especially if it parachutes and the back hits the ground first. I see what you mean about the battery but I like it at an easy access spot. It seems like the handling didn't change that much when I moved it up higher. I also can't put any supports along the sides because the links will hit it.

    Here are some of the changes
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  12. #732
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    Alright I stripped down the truck to test fit the new cage. I had to take out the supports under the battery for it to fit. Everything looks good, I just need to figure out the battery's final spot.





    I know what you guys are thinking, "just use the same setup and finish the thing!" But I really want to build this right so I don't have to keep changing it. Builds are an ongoing process but this one never seems to stop lol. This time I'm going to do it right, taking my time with everything to make the ultimate and final trophy truck. I'm using a full tube chassis and going back to the Slash 4x4 front to get rid of the massive kick up, but also to make this thing bullet proof. The geometry of the 4x4 is more similar to the real thing anyway, but the 4x4 front setup is much better suited for the steering and strength that I want.

    I had a slash 4x4 for almost 2 years before I sold it, so I know how to set everything up. To start I'm getting an STRC bulkhead for their lcg kit along with some of their aluminum a-arms. The knuckles, carriers and shock tower are going to be RPM to save weight up front. Besides the front and the tube frame, the rest of the truck will be the same. I'll still have this old chassis with the slash 2wd front as a backup just in case.



    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  13. #733
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    Might be good to throw a few triangles above the cockpit area. That large of a rectangle could use some more bracing.
    / 16

  14. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrmbtr View Post
    Might be good to throw a few triangles above the cockpit area. That large of a rectangle could use some more bracing.
    Yeah I'm going to put a lot more braces, I just ran out of dowels. There was a small piece on there before but it broke off. I'm going to run to Home Depot tomorrow and get enough to finish it. I'm suprised how strong it is for just being wood and hot glue lol
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  15. #735
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post


    Wow that is Freaking awesome!

    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    I'm not sure if you figured it out yet, but I'll try to help. The motor mounts onto the gold piece you see in the picture. It attaches to that with two screws (make sure you use locktite). Then that piece will slide into the larger part of the motor mount. It slides for you to adjust your gear mesh, then you can tighten it down with the top screw. Not sure what else you may need me to explain, but I hope that answers you question. I'm using a 13t right now and it's perfect with no heating issues. My esc uses a mounting plate for easy removal, but if you didn't want that I would use Scotch outdoor double-sided tape.

    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Plate-XL5-ESC.
    Yea i think that gold piece on yours is just black on mine, i got the Screws figured out im missing the gear i wasnt sure what to get, is yours a novak mod 1 13t? and does that simply just go on and the set screw holds it into place? i have the Castle 3800kv SCT kit is that 5mm on the motor? the novak mod 1 13t i was looking at says 5mm i believeso it shouldfit? and for the ESC that mount you linked does it just zip tie to that? then screw that plate on?

    Also 1 more tiny quick question, the pin you welded did you shorten it from its original length? i think i need to cut mine a little shorter but i tried placing a nut on it and grinding the outside of the nut down to just barely squeeze in the diff, and it worked, only problem is that the bottom is snug but the top still moves a little so its not a solid tight fit for a straight centered weld like im trying to get.





    Check out my progress so far you can see my motor and esc / other pics i took here for reference to all my questions, sorry to flood you with so many
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...70#post5630070

  16. #736
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    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    Yea i think that gold piece on yours is just black on mine, i got the Screws figured out im missing the gear i wasnt sure what to get, is yours a novak mod 1 13t? and does that simply just go on and the set screw holds it into place? i have the Castle 3800kv SCT kit is that 5mm on the motor? the novak mod 1 13t i was looking at says 5mm i believeso it shouldfit? and for the ESC that mount you linked does it just zip tie to that? then screw that plate on?

    Also 1 more tiny quick question, the pin you welded did you shorten it from its original length? i think i need to cut mine a little shorter but i tried placing a nut on it and grinding the outside of the nut down to just barely squeeze in the diff, and it worked, only problem is that the bottom is snug but the top still moves a little so its not a solid tight fit for a straight centered weld like im trying to get.

    Check out my progress so far you can see my motor and esc / other pics i took here for reference to all my questions, sorry to flood you with so many

    I ordered the SCTE 2.0 motor mount, that's why mine is gold. What you now need is a pinion gear. The 3800 system comes in two versions; 1 comes with a 5mm shaft and the other has a 3mm. Yours has the 3mm shaft, so this is what you need: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inion-Gear-13T

    For the esc plate you're going to simply screw it down to the chassis first. After you find a good spot for it, you then mount your esc on top of that with the double sided tape. Now if you need to take off your esc, you just unscrew those two screws instead of prying it off and wasting tape. It also keeps it raised up in case water finds its way on the chassis

    I used this outside whole and drilled one more on the other side to mount it.


    That's a great idea to keep it from moving, I wish I could of thought of that! Maybe you can try putting on some glue? Get it in the perfect spot then let it dry, then you could try welding it on permanently. If you don't want to do that you just need a vice grip and pair of grip pliers to hold it still while you weld.

    Don't be ashamed by the questions. Building one of these is no easy task and I bet it's even harder for you just getting into electric. I'll make sure to subscribe to your thread and you can just post any of your questions there.
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  17. #737
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    I just read through this thread and gotta say, this thing is bad to the bone! Those GIFs of the suspension was awesome! Looks like the real deal! Can't wait to see the cage on it! good luck!


    Sent from underneath my truck

  18. #738
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    Quote Originally Posted by slasher73 View Post
    I just read through this thread and gotta say, this thing is bad to the bone! Those GIFs of the suspension was awesome! Looks like the real deal! Can't wait to see the cage on it! good luck!
    Thanks bud I appreciate the compliment. I'm really trying to make this as close to the real thing as possible and this final build is going to do it. If you thought that GIF was cool, check this out:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2ZX_ZOuICc


    And I'm not joking guys, this one is going to be perfect. Here's one of the many concept pictures I'm going to make.

    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  19. #739
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    And I'm not joking guys, this one is going to be perfect. Here's one of the many concept pictures I'm going to make.

    Now are the differentials going to actually have the difs inside? Maybe attempt to make it 4x4 again?


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  20. #740
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    I think he's trying to make it as scale as possible and I'm pretty sure BJ's truck is 2wd as well. Idk though it looks like he could if he wanted to though.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  21. #741
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    Thanks again for the help, been busy with a lot, but should have some free time this weekend to work on more. Ill order up that pinion gear and mount.

  22. #742
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    Quote Originally Posted by panek33 View Post
    Now are the differentials going to actually have the difs inside? Maybe attempt to make it 4x4 again?
    Seany said it exactly, even though I could do it easily, it's staying 2wd. I'm going to just leave the diff housing empty. When it's 4wd it really heats up the motor and drains the battery too quickly. It would be cool to have a 4wd one though, it would drift some much better!

    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    Thanks again for the help, been busy with a lot, but should have some free time this weekend to work on more. Ill order up that pinion gear and mount.
    No problem man I understand. When I have free time I try to work on the truck as much as I can!
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  23. #743
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    Seany said it exactly, even though I could do it easily, it's staying 2wd. I'm going to just leave the diff housing empty. When it's 4wd it really heats up the motor and drains the battery too quickly. It would be cool to have a 4wd one though, it would drift some much better!
    Ah,
    And why not just go with a 1/8th setup?


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  24. #744
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    Quote Originally Posted by panek33 View Post
    Ah,
    And why not just go with a 1/8th setup?
    I don't know, I just never considered it. I guess I thought it would be too much power. Going with a bigger motor and stronger batteries would only lead to more problems imo, I'm happy with my Castle system on 2s.
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  25. #745
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    Wow, this is a really impressive build. I wish I could see it and drive it in real life! Great work man.

  26. #746
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clay Shredder View Post
    Wow, this is a really impressive build. I wish I could see it and drive it in real life! Great work man.
    +1 on that!


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  27. #747
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    XC's Custom Solid Axle Trophy Truck Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    I don't know, I just never considered it. I guess I thought it would be too much power. Going with a bigger motor and stronger batteries would only lead to more problems imo, I'm happy with my Castle system on 2s.
    To be completely honest, coming from my slash that had a sidewinder on 3s, and an off brand mamba monster on 2s, you actually get the same results if you just gear it the same.


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  28. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by panek33 View Post
    To be completely honest, coming from my slash that had a sidewinder on 3s, and an off brand mamba monster on 2s, you actually get the same results if you just gear it the same.
    That's interesting, every time I've run on 3s it's been pretty out of control. I just thought it would be too much of a strain on the drive shaft and solid axle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Clay Shredder View Post
    Wow, this is a really impressive build. I wish I could see it and drive it in real life! Great work man.
    Thank you sir, over the past year this has been my main focus. All this work pays off when I get to see my truck perform the way it does. The videos of it are cool, but like you said it doesn't compare to actually seeing it in real life. I can't wait to start this second chassis, everything will work/attach like it does on his real truck!
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  29. #749
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    Here are two more concepts. I fixed the bottom of the cage so I'll be able to mount the exhaust pipe.



    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

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    The STRC bulkhead arrived last night so I got started on the new cage and chassis. I didn't have the Silverado when I built the first one so this one so far fits it exactly. Now that I actually built it you see how I'm doing the bottom of the chassis.







    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  31. #751
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    Looking good, I found a Video for some of those confused people that didnt understand your mold also.


  32. #752
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    And after the mold comes this :-)

  33. #753
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    Cycon where can i find bigger tie rod ends i looked at 1/8th scale maybe even 1/5th i got 1/4" diameter threaded rod but havent found ends for it, which did you use?

  34. #754
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    In your video end of year bash what did you use on hood instead of bodyclips


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    those are proline bodymounts

  36. #756
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    Thanks Gunslinger9

  37. #757
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    Great work and videos, it must be more fun to make your own lexan bodies.
    What material did you use for the mold, so I imagine that the oven is home made too,
    just awsome
    Live life to the fullest

  38. #758
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    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    Cycon where can i find bigger tie rod ends i looked at 1/8th scale maybe even 1/5th i got 1/4" diameter threaded rod but havent found ends for it, which did you use?
    Hey Quad I actually made those myself. I just bought 8/32 in. threaded rod from Home Depot, it comes in 4 ft. Even though the thread is a little more coarse, it still threads onto 4mm rod ends perfect (the ones for normal turnbuckles). Then I just used some tubing (beveling the edges) to slide over the rod ends to make it stronger.

    Harley has a perfect video explaining it. But I did do this BEFORE he put out this video

    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  39. #759
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    Thanks That video is perfect help :-)

  40. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    Great work and videos, it must be more fun to make your own lexan bodies.
    What material did you use for the mold, so I imagine that the oven is home made too,
    just awsome
    Thanks Jezza, it's awesome being able to make the body molds. Besides not having to order new bodies, I think the best part is being able to use thicker or thinner plastic. I could make a really thick body for just bashing it around but I could also make a thin body that will crack and tear just like the real ones. I think it would look awesome in slow mo!! But I made the mold out of Plaster of Paris. I bought two 25 lb bags, but I ended up using only 1 and a half. Surprisingly the top of our vacuum former actually fits in the kitchen oven!

    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    Thanks That video is perfect help :-)
    No problem, glad it helped!
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

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