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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    ...but what can I do if there's still is a tiny amount of bump steer and I want to get rid of it?
    Essentially, you space your steering link up or down to align it differently. Sometimes you want it perfectly level with the front control arm, sometimes not. Page 6 of this pdf shows the instructions I always used on my full size cars.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/As...-1-3-5-6r3.pdf

    What imagine a person would do to fix this on an RC is use a small 3mm spacer (like the ones on Axial SCX10 shock shafts) and cut it to the correct height and space the steering link up from the knuckle and use a longer bolt. This would change the alignment of the arc it swings in relation to the arc the front control arm swings in.

  2. #602
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    And so it begins...


















  3. #603
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    Wow, you should be driving by dinner time.

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    And so it begins...
    Nice package from the start! Enjoy the build!

  5. #605
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    Quadsatv make your own thread like this one.

  6. #606
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    Is that the hardcore axle? If so how did you get it? Looking nice so far


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  7. #607
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    Wow quad! It seems like you really have this thing planned out, looking good

    Quote Originally Posted by 92mnstanger View Post
    Use a small 3mm spacer (like the ones on Axial SCX10 shock shafts) and cut it to the correct height and space the steering link up from the knuckle and use a longer bolt.
    Thanks for the link. I had a small spacer on there but I'm going to try putting a taller one. Should fix the problem, thanks again for the help.

    It's finally here!!!!

    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-09-2014 at 09:27 AM. Reason: merge
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  8. #608
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    Aaagh can't see pic! Panic!


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  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    It's finally here!!!!

    In my opinion that is the coolest body proline still makes. Out of all bodies though the proline hardcore body has to be the best. Unfortunately they discontinued it. Proline is really heading in the wrong direction with bodies IMO, all they new ones except that f100 look ugly.

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wakesurfer98 View Post
    Quadsatv make your own thread like this one.
    Yea i was thinking i should, Im feeling a little under the weather this week, so i haven't really done much. I'll get one started though.

    Quote Originally Posted by seanycool View Post
    Is that the hardcore axle? If so how did you get it? Looking nice so far


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    This is what i got, and where i got it

    http://store.rc4wd.com/Aluminum-Rear...k-_p_2495.html

    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    Wow quad! It seems like you really have this thing planned out, looking good
    Thanks im just trying to make sure everything will go together good the 1st time around, is getting pretty costly don't want to have to redo a lot.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-09-2014 at 09:27 AM. Reason: merge

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    Thanks im just trying to make sure everything will go together good the 1st time around, is getting pretty costly don't want to have to redo a lot.
    I built my truck three years ago and i'm still changing stuff.lol

  12. #612
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    I built my truck three years ago and i'm still changing stuff.lol
    Yea i know, i did the same thing with my traxxas nitro sport, what i meant was, i wanted to make sure im getting the right parts and cutting everything correctly so i don't have to scrap or return something if it isn't right. Every next step i think of has a new question, like now mine is not as wide as Cycon's so my battery will be placed differently, still figuring it out as i go.

  13. #613
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    I started a thread for my build also.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...70#post5630070

  14. #614
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    Cycon,

    Where did you find the SCTE center diff and motor mount? Did you take it from a donor roller?

    I currently have my truck set up with Velineon and SCX10 gearbox but now I am thinking Mamba max pro with a 1415 4 pole. No way the axial stuff will survive that.

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    Yea i know, i did the same thing with my traxxas nitro sport, what i meant was, i wanted to make sure im getting the right parts and cutting everything correctly so i don't have to scrap or return something if it isn't right. Every next step i think of has a new question, like now mine is not as wide as Cycon's so my battery will be placed differently, still figuring it out as i go.
    Good luck.

  16. #616
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    Cycon, Just curious not sure if its been covered any reason you didnt use the 2wd transmission like the RC4wd kit utilized ?

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    In my opinion that is the coolest body proline still makes. Out of all bodies though the proline hardcore body has to be the best. Unfortunately they discontinued it. Proline is really heading in the wrong direction with bodies IMO, all they new ones except that f100 look ugly.
    I would have to agree with you on that! Chevy for life! They also had that cool Desert Rat that they discontinued, the scale market just wasn't there I guess. Now that it's picking back up I'm sure they're going make some kind of new Baja/Desert truck body.

    Quote Originally Posted by 92mnstanger View Post
    Where did you find the SCTE center diff and motor mount? Did you take it from a donor roller?

    I currently have my truck set up with Velineon and SCX10 gearbox but now I am thinking Mamba max pro with a 1415 4 pole. No way the axial stuff will survive that.
    I got the SCTE 2.0 motor mount off of Ebay and I got the pre-built center diff from a site I can't find.

    This is there last one, but this is what you would get:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOSB0128-Los...item5af8cfa90c

    and the Center Diff:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Losi-TEN-SCT...-/400609778410


    Switching to the SCTE setup makes a HUGE difference. It's soooo much smoother and the truck gains a lot of "pep", you'll enjoy driving your truck a lot more! It also makes setting gear mesh and removing the motor a breeze. It's a much better and reliable setup to use. My SCX10 transmission sounded like it was struggling to get the job done even when I had the 2-pole velineon in there. It works well for light crawlers but not these heavy TT's. Not to mention you can get rid of those 48p gears and that annoying squealing sound!

    Quote Originally Posted by unreligion View Post
    Cycon, Just curious not sure if its been covered any reason you didnt use the 2wd transmission like the RC4wd kit utilized ?
    Yeah I tried the Integy Slash 2wd transmission, but here are some reasons why I got rid of it:

    1. It was really heavy
    2. It offset the motor
    3. I didn't like the internal gear ratio/locker setup
    3. and I didn't like taking off the whole transmission just to remove the motor
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-09-2014 at 09:26 AM. Reason: merge
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post

    Yeah I tried the Integy Slash 2wd transmission, but here are some reasons why I got rid of it:

    1. It was really heavy
    2. It offset the motor
    3. I didn't like the internal gear ratio/locker setup
    3. and I didn't like taking off the whole transmission just to remove the motor
    ok thanks for the heads up.

  19. #619
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    Is anyone trying tires with a more scale OD of 3.7-3.9"? Seems like most are using tires in the 4.2" OD range on a 2.2" or 2.2/3.0 wheel. Seems like we should try a 1.7" wheel and a tire less than 4.0". The difference is suspension travel before the body starts to interfere.

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92mnstanger View Post
    Is anyone trying tires with a more scale OD of 3.7-3.9"? Seems like most are using tires in the 4.2" OD range on a 2.2" or 2.2/3.0 wheel. Seems like we should try a 1.7" wheel and a tire less than 4.0". The difference is suspension travel before the body starts to interfere.
    Yeah I agree the 1.9 size wheel looks way better. The only problem is I haven't found any good tires that will work for our TT's. When you go that small with the rim, the tires tend to get smaller too.
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92mnstanger View Post
    Is anyone trying tires with a more scale OD of 3.7-3.9"? Seems like most are using tires in the 4.2" OD range on a 2.2" or 2.2/3.0 wheel. Seems like we should try a 1.7" wheel and a tire less than 4.0". The difference is suspension travel before the body starts to interfere.
    I like the 2.2 size wheel, they are scaled perfectly. If you ever see a real trophy truck in person the tires are huge. I believe they are like 40 inches.

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    I like the 2.2 size wheel, they are scaled perfectly. If you ever see a real trophy truck in person the tires are huge. I believe they are like 40 inches.
    I get what you're saying, but for RC's the rim size on a SC tire is just too big to look scale. The size of the tires are fine, it's just that the rims are too big to be proportional to the real things. That's why if we could find some 1.9s that have some tires that are the same size as SC tires we would be good!

    You're right, real TT tires are HUGE


    Here's a regular SC rim, notice how big the rim is compared to above:


    This is how I plan on painting up my F11's to try and fix the look


    Here's a pic from a while ago with the Jeep JK 1.9s on my truck:
    Last edited by CyconXc; 01-09-2014 at 07:51 PM. Reason: Fixed Pictures
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  23. #623
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    looks like you got a flat in the rear better break out the spare

  24. #624
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    Hey Cycon Whats the difference with regular battery plug or connector and Deans connector or Deans plug?

  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    looks like you got a flat in the rear better break out the spare
    Haha, I know right? Forgot about that issue when using crawler tires..

    Quote Originally Posted by quadsatv View Post
    Hey Cycon Whats the difference with regular battery plug or connector and Deans connector or Deans plug?
    It's just preference. The Traxxas plugs have a good connection, but because of that they can be hard to unplug sometimes. That could be a major problem if you ever have to unplug a lipo quickly. But I use deans, they have a solid connection and you can unplug your battery without breaking your fingers lol. Castle also makes some that I may try out, they're green
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  26. #626
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    Hey guys, had the truck apart today so I figured I'd take some pics of it without the frame on there. You can see better how I have everything laid out. I also painted up the front springs and it turned out great with an extra clear coat. Going to do the rears tomorrow.













    Last edited by CyconXc; 01-11-2014 at 09:33 PM.
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  27. #627
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    Hey Cycon,
    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    Hey guys, had the truck apart today so I figured I'd take some pics of it without the frame on there. You can see better how I have everything laid out. I also painted up the front springs and it turned out great with an extra clear coat. Going to do the rears tomorrow.
    Looking pretty nice! Like in some garage, you know when guys stay along and chattering about how cool this thing is! By the way I see you did some dust protection over the driveshaft. Does it work for you? I did not run my truck yet, but I thought it would be good to rotate the shaft so the big piece of it will be next to the motor and not to the axle so the dust and dirt will just come off while driving.

    P.S. I just don't want to ask why you did rotate trailing arms again

  28. #628
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gimm3Fuel View Post
    Hey Cycon,


    Looking pretty nice! Like in some garage, you know when guys stay along and chattering about how cool this thing is! By the way I see you did some dust protection over the driveshaft. Does it work for you? I did not run my truck yet, but I thought it would be good to rotate the shaft so the big piece of it will be next to the motor and not to the axle so the dust and dirt will just come off while driving.

    P.S. I just don't want to ask why you did rotate trailing arms again
    The little dust guard for the drive-shaft was pretty easy to make, and from what I can tell it has worked. I could of turned it around like you said, but I already sanded one end to fit the out-drive on the axle so I just left it. The good thing about these being 2wd is that the front wheels don't kick up a lot dust, so I wasn't too worried. I did Jang's method of sanding down the half shaft to keep it smooth, then I just wrapped a piece of heat shrink around the connection. I'm going to post an update why I switched back the trailing arms.
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  29. #629
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    The 1.9's look really weird when on that truck. They definitely need to stay on the axial crawler.

  30. #630
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    The 1.9's look really weird when on that truck. They definitely need to stay on the axial crawler.
    I know the JK tires look weird with those soft foams, but I do like the look of the smaller rims. Who knows, having thicker tires might smoothen out the ride on our trucks?

    Here's a better picture
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  31. #631
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    Hey guys, had the truck apart today so I figured I'd take some pics of it without the frame on there. You can see better how I have everything laid out. I also painted up the front springs and it turned out great with an extra clear coat. Going to do the rears tomorrow.













    CyconXc,
    Couple of quick questions, the center link mount you have looks a little beefier than what comes on the rearend did you make this or is it from something else? The second thing is do you know of any axles that go in the hardcore axle it appears that rc4wd has discontinued the HD axle replacements for this rearend? Sorry to keep bothering you with questions on this, i have been doing a little testing with my build and with the weight and power of my truck i think i my have choose the wrong rearend. I would like to make this rearend work if i can find parts for the repairs. I am triing to make the decision if i should cut my losses now and go to a different rearend, i did not know this thing would be discontinued so quickly as well as parts.

    Thank you in advance for any help on this subject.

  32. #632
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    Good day, nice work I see them all there. I'm from Germany and would like to build me a Trohy truck. Could you give me a list where it says what I need. Would appreciate a response from them. Gruss Turk3y

  33. #633
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    I know the JK tires look weird with those soft foams, but I do like the look of the smaller rims. Who knows, having thicker tires might smoothen out the ride on our trucks?

    Here's a better picture
    Ya I like those rims and I know rc4wd makes that same tire but i think it's only for 2.2's. The bigger tire would probably weigh more but I guess who cares on these trucks. If the tire was gonna smoothen the ride then you would need to run softer foams which would increase drag and make the car go a bit slower. This truck has 1.9's I believe and it looks pretty cool.


  34. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecm12 View Post
    CyconXc, Couple of quick questions
    Hey ecm,
    After I broke the stock RC4WD mount I immediately looked for an alternative, I knew buying the same one could result in another break. I saw that the SCX10 used a similar looking piece that mounted the 4-link and I happened to have an extra to try out. Turns out it fit perfect after I bent it a little. Even though it's plastic it is stronger, and way cheaper to replace.

    This is what you need for the Axial truss:
    http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ink-Parts-Tree

    As for the axles I have no idea. The axial axles might work but they look like they won't fit the inside of the hardcore. I'm actually mad they just stopped production of all the hardcore parts like that. Now none of us will be able to get replacements. I'm going to try to not mess anything up and buy the Axial locker. Your position is difficult. I know you probably don't want to here this, but I would just get another kind of axle. Ideal-RC uses the HPI axles and he runs his truck mostly on 3s.


    Edited for language abuse.

    Quote Originally Posted by turk3y View Post
    Good day, nice work I see them all there. I'm from Germany and would like to build me a Trohy truck. Could you give me a list where it says what I need. Would appreciate a response from them. Gruss Turk3y
    Hey Turk3y! I don't have a set build list yet, mostly because it's hard to get one together with parts being discontinued. I have some lists a couple pages back you can look at to get a general idea. Ideal RC also has a great build summary you can check out.

    http://www.ideal-rc.com/2011/09/trop...art-1-concept/

    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    Ya I like those rims and I know rc4wd makes that same tire but i think it's only for 2.2's. The bigger tire would probably weigh more but I guess who cares on these trucks. If the tire was gonna smoothen the ride then you would need to run softer foams which would increase drag and make the car go a bit slower. This truck has 1.9's I believe and it looks pretty cool.
    I've been looking for some 1.9s that could work but haven't found any yet. If you think about, a savage flux has bigger tires (but not necessarily softer foams) and has a smoother ride, same thing on normal cars. That Mastercraft truck is 1/8th scale, so the 2.2s he has on there look like 1.9s. Going to keep looking for some...
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-14-2014 at 05:14 PM. Reason: merge
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  35. #635
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    As for the axles I have no idea. The axial axles might work but they look like they won't fit the inside of the hardcore. I'm actually mad they just stopped production of all the hardcore parts like that. Now none of us will be able to get replacements.
    Thanks CyconXc,
    Thank you for the help and yes I am kind of upset about them not making any of the parts as well, I have a fair amount of money sunk in this rear end with the vanquish locker and new gears as well. I sent rc4wd an email to try and get some info on this stuff before I make a decision on changing axles. Sorry to bring the bad news but thanks again for your help. I will you know what they have to say.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-14-2014 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Modified quote.

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecm12 View Post
    I will you know what they have to say.
    No problem at all man and I agree, this whole thing has been frustrating. Please let me know what you here, I'm interested to see how they reply.

    If you guys have been wondering why I haven't done anything with the body, this is why! Heard many others trying this out and I thought it would be perfect for my build. I wanted the permanent body for this truck to fit the chassis perfectly and this is what I'm going to do to achieve it.

    I can modify the shape of the body by sanding or adding clay to spots that I want to fix to get the prefect final shape. Most importantly we can use thicker plastic so out bodies last longer. The mold itself is made of Plaster of Paris and no joke, this thing weighs at least 50 lbs! You can see our vacuum former in the background that we're going to use to make the new bodies. We're going to put up a video on the whole process.

    The lines indicate some of the immediate changes I'm going to make to the Silverado. All this will be done adding on molding clay.



    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-14-2014 at 05:14 PM. Reason: merge
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyconXc View Post
    I've been looking for some 1.9s that could work but haven't found any yet. If you think about, a savage flux has bigger tires (but not necessarily softer foams) and has a smoother ride, same thing on normal cars. That Mastercraft truck is 1/8th scale, so the 2.2s he has on there look like 1.9s. Going to keep looking for some...
    Well i'm a bit confused on where your going with this, but 1.9's aren't really bigger than 2.2 tires. In fact 2.2 size tires are generally taller . . . And yes taller tires do ride smoother over bumps/obstacles better because of the larger contact patch of the tire. Are you talking about tires with more sidewall compared to tires with less?

  38. #638
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    I can modify the shape of the body by sanding or adding clay to spots that I want to fix to get the prefect final shape. Most importantly we can use thicker plastic so out bodies last longer. The mold itself is made of Plaster of Paris and no joke, this thing weighs at least 50 lbs! You can see our vacuum former in the background that we're going to use to make the new bodies. We're going to put up a video on the whole process.
    Nice indeed! By the way 2 months ago I did a mold from plaster of paris for a short course truck I have and with the first try it was too heavy so I just put it like a figure on my country house )) Instead I've made another one with empty cell inside and it turned out about 15lbs and also it helps to do some small holes where the body shell will curve (just to better vacuming). Anyways, good luck in mold shaping which is something really new!

  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96motorhead View Post
    Well i'm a bit confused on where your going with this, but 1.9's aren't really bigger than 2.2 tires. In fact 2.2 size tires are generally taller . . . And yes taller tires do ride smoother over bumps/obstacles better because of the larger contact patch of the tire. Are you talking about tires with more sidewall compared to tires with less?
    The whole I idea was using smaller 1.9 rims and finding 1.9 tires that would be similar in height to 2.2 or regular sc tires. I wanted the look of having thicker side walls (like real TTs) so I didn't have to mask it by just painting the center of the rim. Since I can't find any it seems like I'll just be sticking with my original idea with the F11's.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gimm3Fuel View Post
    Nice indeed! By the way 2 months ago I did a mold from plaster of paris for a short course truck I have and with the first try it was too heavy so I just put it like a figure on my country house )) Instead I've made another one with empty cell inside and it turned out about 15lbs and also it helps to do some small holes where the body shell will curve (just to better vacuming). Anyways, good luck in mold shaping which is something really new!
    Yeah the thing weighs a ton, I'm surprised our little table is still standing lol. We had some trouble trying to get the mold out, but after an hour we finally got it. The plaster was the only thing I could think of that would be easy to modify. Other things like silicone or other types of rubber wouldn't be as easy to sand. I'll be sure to keep you guys updated on the status of the mold!
    Last edited by cooleocool; 01-14-2014 at 05:47 PM. Reason: merge
    - Custom 1/10 BJ Baldwin TT - SCT410 - Mini Slash

  40. #640
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    Wow! I would have never expected that! It should definitely be something to watch. I would totally do that if I had the materials because you could make your own design and it would cost less for a body. Where. Do you plan on getting the lexan?


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