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  1. #1
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    What and how did I brake this ?

    No fun for me , again something snapped and that's after freshly repairing the ride and upgrading to rpm arms and true track. Any recommendations for upgrades?


    Got a total 25 minutes before that happened .


    [IMG][/IMG]


  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rjm2519's Avatar
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    Twisted a halfshaft pretty common with the erevo on BL power. You can keep throwing money at stock parts, throw some at summit shafts (long ones) or throw some at aftermarket parts. None of those has been proven to reliable hold up to 6s power. So pick your poison. You may even want to loosen your slipper a little to help keep it from happening so soon.
    Donít handicap children by making life easy

  3. #3
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    You must be running 6s, like posted above, set your slipper, easy on the the throttle, roll into the throttle don't just jerk the throttle back ease into it, and your next problem will probably be diffs. Have you tried 4s or even 5s, you can gear up to get speed back, certainly not what 6s will do but with running 6s you are going to keep breaking parts if you don't take it easy a bit. Also you can change settings on your esc, start power on low, punch control set to 100%, motor timing on zero, and make a less aggressive throttle curve. In the end, parts are going to break on 6s, I ran 4s on mine geared 20/54, speeds were approx. 45mph and would stay cool through a whole pack with a few stop and sits. The other thing to do is like posted above, change to summit axles. Good luck and hope you get it right, god bless.


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  4. #4
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    thats a nice pretzel you have there.i have never seen one that bad before.mine used to just break.get yourself some summit axles and problem will be solved until you start blowing diffs out and until traxxas does something to help us out (which will prob never happen)you'll have to deal with that to then you'll have to do a losi lst 1/8th scale diff swap.good luck and i finally switched from 6s to 4s to stop breaking diffs every time i went out.

  5. #5
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    Thanks all for the replies much appreciated.
    Well yes I am running 6s , but the ESC has been tamed guess just not enough need to revisit the configuration cant remember now what I set everything but punch control was at 100% with a nice acceleration curve.

    I'll order some 2S batteries to go with the 3S ones not needing all the 6S power , which gearing would be recommended to keep things balanced running stock as for now but got 58 and a 54 pinion? Just dont got any RC car and running 4s would make me throw the other batteries away.

    Going to hunt for the summit shafts , seem to be a bit pricey. Would the set of 2 long and 2 short ones work or I really need 4 long ones?

    I'll try see if LHS can get me 1 shaft to buy so I can get the truck up and running quickly it was on the shelf to long due to bad weather. Can anyone tell me the part number I would need , never worked on the shafts before and am a bit confused from the exploded views.

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Just an idea for batteries when buying 2s try to get same mah as your 3s. Then you can run 4s 5s and 6s set ups. Batteries have to be the same mah to do this. Gives you best of all worlds.

    As for gearing, I'm running 4s set up, 18/54 for general bashing and jumping. If going road I up the pinion to 21, but you can go higher on pinion, but need to keep an eye on temps.

    Shafts 5450, is pair of your bend bits. The shafts only.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yip-man View Post
    Just an idea for batteries when buying 2s try to get same mah as your 3s. Then you can run 4s 5s and 6s set ups. Batteries have to be the same mah to do this. Gives you best of all worlds.

    As for gearing, I'm running 4s set up, 18/54 for general bashing and jumping. If going road I up the pinion to 21, but you can go higher on pinion, but need to keep an eye on temps.

    Shafts 5450, is pair of your bend bits. The shafts only.
    Yup that's the plan buying 2s in the same mah rating like my 3s , I prefer going 5s and brake less things its waste of my precious time fixing the truck up. Just don't have the time running 4,5 and 6 need 1 solution for the little time I have free and that's usually 1 day in the week when my wife is taking the child to her parents.

    I'll check the LHS if they can get me the 5450 for now , but I am sure they'll charge arm and a leg for it.

    Anyhow regarding upgrading the shafts between 5451R and the summit ones what would give me a more robust solution for the long run.

  8. #8
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    Got about the same time as you ( kids ). I've just ordered summits from ebay, keep them in my spates box, as planning on 5s soon. 5450 is only £7 in the uk from a Lhs as only the plastic bits.

    Least getting a couple of 2s will give you two sets of 5s runs.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yip-man View Post
    Got about the same time as you ( kids ). I've just ordered summits from ebay, keep them in my spates box, as planning on 5s soon. 5450 is only £7 in the uk from a Lhs as only the plastic bits.

    Least getting a couple of 2s will give you two sets of 5s runs.
    I live in israel and the traxxas importer is just a fat nudge hiking prices 30-50% over retail ... doing some research on the CVD's vs the summit shafts for now before going to order any upgrade.

    also inspected my slipper clutch it was over tight explaining the snap hopefully ..

    going to order some shims for the diffs as well , got a hard time compiling the part list to do it right .

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rjm2519's Avatar
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    You can probably get away with running the stock fronts and just upgrading the rear axles. I would go with the summit shafts they are just good so far as any cvd that is on the market.
    Donít handicap children by making life easy

  11. #11
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    Go for the summit axles, cheapest for sure, get some extra shaft sets when you do, the long ones. Good luck and god bless.


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  12. #12
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    Acidburn

    This link should help, for diff shimming.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-Diff-Shim-Mod

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Rock n Rolla !

  14. #14
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    thanks all , anyone can hint me how to remove the darn eclip from the joint before I cut my fingers or worse smash something from getting mad.

  15. #15
    RC Racer
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    Hi AcidBurn, Generally I find a little flat head screwdriver in the indend of the E clip and gently prize it out. then get ready to hunt for it as it fly's off into the distance.

  16. #16
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    Getting the summit parts seems to be harder than I thought , there are complete being sold from the hack shops but they offer the long and short ones , which I understood don't fit and I need only the long ones or that's incorrect ?.

    Now going the route buying the parts new needed to assemble 4 long summit shaft its overshooting the price of the CVD kit.
    63$ vs 50$ for the CVD ...

    CVD locally is being sold for 100$ .. freakin over kill.

  17. #17
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    Hi, the route I went was Ebay for the summit complete system. with two short ones, then by part number ( 5656 ) which is just the plastic long shafts which are cheap. which in total comes to around £30 cheaper than buying the bits from a LHS in the UK.



    So
    Summit Complete from Ebay (From US) Around £35-£40
    Two Long Shafts from LHS (From UK) around £7

    Total £50 ish

    Parts seperately bought from LHS (£83)


    Some people have put the two short ones on the front, it just extends out out the driveshaft, and the blue boot does not fit. However for the extra £7, I went for the extra bits.

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