I made a water coolig heat-sink mod for my Spartan a while ago, and I got quite a few PM's on if I would post pictures of the actual construction of a heat-sink. The full mod is under the post: Stock Castle ESC/Motor Heat Problem Solved.
This is a picture of the full mod.
This is most of the tools and metal stock needed. I'll give more specifics later as we continue.
I used a Weller W-60P with a 5/32 flat tip, and a Weller W-100 with a 5/16 flat tip. Also, it is very imortant to have a wet soldering sponge. This is used to keep the soldering tips clean as you solder. The Scotch Brite pad (pictured below soldering tips) is used to clean metal surfaces to be soldered.
This is what you will need for making a jig. The blue caps are Radio Shack P/N 272-1032. Glue the two caps together with a small amount of silicon.
I used a sheet metal sheer, and a Dremel Die Cutter to cut my brass stock, but you could also use the scissor type Sheet Metal Hand Sheers. YOU DON'T WANT TO USE TIN SNIPS. Tin snips will curve the metal. The brass stock is a 12"x 2" medium thickness brass stock purchased from my local Hobby Store. You will need to cut a 1/14 piece.
I use a Sheet Metal Break to bend stock, but you could use a vise, a piece of wood, and a hammer if need be. I bend two 1/4" flanges from the 1/14" cut stock.
Next, I rough cut two peices from a 17/32 brass tube. (I didn't show this tube in the second picture)
When finished cutting your stock you have: Four small 3/4" long 3/16" tubes, Two 2 1/4, 5/32" square tubes, a 2"x 1 1/4 base plate with two 1/4" flanges (that you bent), and two short rough cut 17/32" tubes.
Next you'll use the wood and nails to make the first part of your Jig, so that you can tin the areas for receiving the square tubes. I used the Weller W-60P.
Next the square tubes are soldered. I used the Weller W-60P here, also. The heat sinks are from Radio Shack, and are used to hold the tubes in place.
Next, I solder in the square tubes. I fill in all the gaps, and run a nice bead in the middle of the two square tubes.
Next, I use a belt sander to trim the square tubes to the length I want. (both sides)
Next, I use an Exacto knife to trim the excess metal from inside/outside the square metal tubes.
Next, I use a small file to clean the insides of all four square tubes to prep them for soldering in the small 3/16" tubes.
Next, I clean up the ouside edges of the small 3/16" tubes with the belt sander.
Next, I put a small crimp at the ends of the square tubes, so that the small 3/16" tubes fit snug.
Next, I solder in the small 3/16" tubes. I use the Weller W-100P here. Also, you want to be quick with the heat, if not using heat sinks in this area.
If you're nervous about a melt down, here's how to heat sink this area.
Next, bore out the tubes to make sure they're clear. I use a drill bit that just fits in the tubes.
Now, it's time to make the Cap Clamp part of our Water Cooled Heat Sink. It's very important to have one factory edge (or replace the factory edge), as this will effect how the heat sink rests on the ESC caps. The easiest way to have a factory edge...is not disturb the factory edge by cutting more than one piece from each end of your stock. You can do this here, with these next two pieces of 17/32" rough cut tubes. If you can't do this, you can do as I do by: marking (using a (black or red) Sharpie) the piece I want to trim down. This allows me to correct, and make true the piece I want to cut before cutting by giving me a visual reference to work from.
Next, I cut the tube with a good pair of steel bolt cutters.
Next, I use my cutters to cut small increments of brass away untill my two tubes fit together on my ESC.
Don't worry about the final length right now. This will be attended to later.
Next, I put my two pieces of 17/32" cut stock on my cap jig that I made with the Radio Shack caps and silicon, and tin around the tubes that have (or had) the factory edge restored .
Next, I make my final base jig, and place the cap jig in its final position.
Next, I solder the two jigs together. I use the Weller W-100P for this. It's a good idea not to be all day with heat here. Everything is tied down however, just incase of a melt down. If this were to happen, just let everything cool down before another soldering attempt.
Now, it's time to get our final length of our 17/32" cap tubes. Take only small amounts off at a time. Each ESC is slightly different.
Notice, that there is'nt any solder in the center of the 17/32" inch tubes. This is very important, so that the heat-sink mounts to the capacitors properly.
Notice, that there is about a two paper width gap between the plastic of the ESC and the heat-sink. This important, because it lets you see that the tops of the caps are making contact with base plate of the heat sink.
Now, its time to clean up all the solder joints with small files and sandpaper. I use different size widths of sandpaper, and sand down the areas as if a shoe shinner was shinning shoes.
Next, I prep to paint. It's important to keep the paint out of where the caps will seat.
Finally, use heat-sink compount on all the surfaces of the heat-sinks capacitor cups, and put a dab of silicon at the juction where the heat-sink mates to the plastic on the ESC (both sides). And with that you have a ReglarDude, Water Cooled, Stock Castle ESC, Heat-Sink for your Traxxas Spartan boat.
In closing, I showed the constuction of this heat sink, because between this one, and the CC Cap Pack Heat Sink; this one is a little more complicated due to the cap cup. But, if you can make this heat sink, you can make the CC Cap Pack Heat-Sink with no problem.