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  1. #41
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    i had the same problem with mine.i took the center nut out and hand sanded on a piece of fine sandpaper that seemed to do the trick.i thick the powder coating is thicker then the older ones i bought a while ago.i didn't have that problem with the first ones i bought just on these.maybe we should send Marcus an e mail and let him check it out

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    Thanks Mitch. Guess what Ill do is install them and just tighten the center nut snug. Thats what I was figuring as no matter how you slice it if you tighten them down all the way, washer, no washer, teflon washer, .01 shim it all comes out the same. The loctite should hold the center nut in place.
    I ended up making new shims for mine...I found that once the bearing settled in that the gap increased; more in the rear than the front. I made my shims from 6mm stainless washers.

    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5407505
    Rock n Rolla !

  3. #43
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    I have them good and snug with loctite on, about as tight as you can go while holding the hex with your fingers. Im thinking this will settle in an after a few runs Ill check again once I go for the virgin run on this puppy. The center nuts are less than 1/4 turn out from being bottomed out. Ill certainly shoot Markus an email and see what he has to say about it. The shims that came with it are 0.5mm thick. Whats strange is it doesnt matter what I put in there I get the same results.

    On the rest of what the mailman brough me today I got the rear motor brace installed too. The extra MM length in the Tekin can over the Castle had no effect. Didnt have to do a thing, fit in there nice and snug. I did have to take the dremmel and a carving head and notch out for the sensor wire to fit but I was kinda expecting that. It was about 2mm shy of making it without modification but no big deal, whipped that out in a few minutes. Then after the rear brace was on I had to cut off a bit of the heat sink as things got crowded and the front end of the heat sink was just a bit too close to the slipper nut. Cutting wheel on the dremmel took care of that in short order. Now to get the rear brace mod in it. I think Im going to try and drill and tap a hole but dont have any 3mm taps so gotta go shopping for one. There is a good bit of meat under the brace mount right where the hole needs to go so I think there wont be any problems with a drilled and tapped mount for that.

    Down to just a few things and she will be ready to run. I red did the wiring harness front to back on the inside of the supports with automotive wire loom 3/8" but still didnt change the servo wire. I looked at running it under but that just puts it into harms way with the center dogbone. Still have to solder up the motor leads, I wanted to get the brace and fan on to make sure the routing I wanted would work. Im going under the motor so the wires will be neat and tucked.

    I wanted to use the ***** mount for the ESC but that didnt pan out. It put the motor and ESC too close to be able to mount the heatsink and fans and get a good clean run on the motor wires. So Im looking at and alternative switch mount. I may use the snappy mount just held in place by the fan screws to hold the switch or go back to old school and just servo tape it to the side of the ESC.


    In the meantime here are some update pics. There a little aluminum dust from the grinding of the heat sink but that will blow right off when my lazy but goes back down in the basement.



    Package from HPP. That came faster than I thought and sure was a lot to pay for some gummies! My kids already scarfed them! I have two sets of hexes, one for set for my off raod ERBE too. Held off on second motor brace until I made sure this one would fit.





    Motor brace and Hexs all mounted up, still need to redo the rear brace mod.





  4. #44
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    That's sweet! Glad it worked out

  5. #45
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    My new ones did the same thing and I took the center out and sandedthe very end down that goes against the hex and no more probs they are snug as a bug.I think there's too much powder coating I didn't have this problem with my first set I bought a while back

  6. #46
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    I was sweating the heatsink as its all got to go on just so to give clearance for the connectors. The top of theheasink mount goes nearly end to end and the space left over was just enough for the motor brace. The underside of the heat sink mount doenst have fins and is just over half the length of the motor can. I rewired the power for the fans to come off of the ESC instead of the direct 2s I have for the RX and servo. Its a 5V fan and the website said it was rated for 2s lipo but when I tested them out on 2s they were spinning really fast and after running a few minutes the fan motors got pretty warm. I just used a long servo Y lead with the single end landing at the RX with the + lead removed and the other two ends with one connecting to the ESC and the other to the fans. It toned them down a bit but they still move a lot of air!

  7. #47
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    Got the wires soldered up on the motor and took her out for a quick spin in front of the house. First time I ever had slipper nut issues with the nut backing off continously. Replaced nut and all is well with that. Getting a fair amount of vibration and Im thinking its the taped tires. Im going to put on the bowties that arent taped for the next run to see if thats where the issue is. Got the rear brace mod done, just drilled the motor brace and tapped it out, 3mm .50 thread and used locktite on it. Its in there pretty darn good! Just as I was braking to pick it up and walk back inside one of the new HPP wheel nuts came rolling off at my feet. Not to happy about that as I had them on pretty darn tight. Just glad it didnt happen at 50mph down the block or I would have never found the nut and dont even want to think of what the trick would have done. Got some tweaking to do on the ESC as I went up to 23/51 on the gearing. She is cooking pretty fast, Had 5s in and never got close to full throttle.

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    Nice...I found on 21/54 running 2/3s gets hot pretty quick for me too. I haven't had that happen to me with an HPP hex adapter before...lucky it happened by your feet as you said .
    Rock n Rolla !

  9. #49
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    I dont intend to run 6s. Its pretty darned fast geared 23/51 on 5s. I ran a good 10 minutes under hard acceleration and breaking and with the heatsink and fans the motor was cool to the touch, not even warm. Time to put her on the set up station, get all the alignments tweaked in and see what the vibration is. Again my guess is the tires with the gorilla tape. Ill know after I run it with the bowties and if thats the problem the tape is going bye bye.

    The cooking was referring to speed.
    Last edited by JustinThyme; 02-27-2013 at 07:16 PM.

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. MITCH316's Avatar
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    I've experienced the same from taping tyres...don't notice it on dirt as much but on the road you would hear it vibrating. It never goes away either. Maybe I taped to tight in the past.

    Speed...I'm with you now mate.
    Rock n Rolla !

  11. #51
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    When I was setting the gear mesh by ear is when I really noted the vibration. It worked all the way back to the tranny. Once I put it on the road the wheel vibration was bad enough it got squirrely when I got above 50. Worse on the handling than ballooning. Might be that the tape is to fresh and needs to be run on a hot day to settle in. Ill know more once I run the bowties that havent been taped.

  12. #52
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    Did you balance the tires?

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50togo View Post
    Did you balance the tires?
    Yes I did. They just dont roll true and are a bit stiff. I can see concave spots as I rotate the wheel where the tape is holding it in. A little lumpy is a good description.

  14. #54
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    I know it is fine, but I just don't like how the batt wires are exposed on the RX8 ESC......can you heat shrink them at least..

    looking sweet buy the way........
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
    Yes I did. They just dont roll true and are a bit stiff. I can see concave spots as I rotate the wheel where the tape is holding it in. A little lumpy is a good description.
    It never goes away mate.
    Rock n Rolla !

  16. #56
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    any updates? did you resolve the shaking?

  17. #57
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    noticed you have the Hot racing rockers .... can you explain the different mounting positions in correlation with LT, P1, P2, P3, etc... set ups .. couldnt find this info anywhere

  18. #58
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    anyone know the answer to this ^^^^^^^^^^

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by buduck04 View Post
    anyone know the answer to this ^^^^^^^^^^
    Its different ride heights. The middle one is what the stock rockers are, p3 I believe is like the long rocker set and p1 is low for more onroad stuff like this build.
    ERBE
    Savage Flux XL
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  20. #60
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    Justin, that looks awesome!! it's making me consider a kershaw chassis.
    (2) RC8TEs, RC8.2E, Slash 4x4, Ofna LX2E, Slash

  21. #61
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    whats the status of this build any updates
    6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s

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