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  1. #1
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    regretting my mamba monster upgrade for my summit now

    well i get the upgrade and install it then i melted my slipper clutch big whoop wasnt to bad of a fix but once i got it fixed i start hearing this loud cracking noise when i stop or go to fast to me its sounding like im losing the rear end gears now whould anyone have any ideas or recommendations for me to get it figured out and finally running like it was out of the box with a beefy motor lol

  2. #2
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    I big one is throttle control. If you aren't slamming to full throttle or anything this won't happen.
    Otherwise if you are gonna hit full throttle starts then adjust your slipper so it just does a wheelie or when you punch the throttle it doesn't squeal its head off and melt your spur. Just tight enough that is slips on full throttle punches but just loose enough so it doesn't squeal for ages and melt your spur.

    As for the cracking sound, check your centre driveshafts. Start with these as it is simply removing some stuff from underneath.
    like hold the front tyres and apply a tiny bit of throttle gradually getting more and see if anything slips up that way if not try the back doing the same thing.
    THen if it is the drive shaft, replace.
    if it isn't then you will have to dig into your diffs.
    Hope this helps
    If the summit can go through; its not deep enough

  3. #3
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    The MMM is hard on diffs until you learn throttle control. I think everyone out there gets to rebuild a few diffs when they get all that new POWER. It is so hard not to just slam the throttle back and watch it pull the front end straight up in the air and/or throw a rooster tail for the first 50 feet.........but after you rebuild those diffs a couple times you start to lose interest in that real fast. LOL

    Like daniel said above, just start narrowing it down. But since you said it sounds like it's coming from the rear........my money is on the rear diff.
    SUMMIT, SUMVO, ERBE, EMAXX & REVO 3.3

  4. #4
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    you can change the settings on the MMM using the field link or castle link. I would turn down the punch control and perhaps limit the throttle on it to 50-70% until you get used to things.

    4s lipo is enough for that system but you have to consider too that the tires are much larger than the stock drive train can handle when you drive it hard with the MMM system.

    If you're unhappy with the purchase, get with me - I'm in the market for a trade - Wink Wink!

  5. #5
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    I am going to 4th the above recommendations. I upgraded to a Tekin system and nothing broken yet. This is because I don't punch the throttle too hard from a stand still. DEF do not punch it hard on asphalt or it's a guarnateed SNAP. This does not mean you can't run at full throttle. Just ease into it.

  6. #6
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    lol all sound like great ideas and i will work from what everyone gave me. having this forum helps alot

  7. #7
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    I got a Tekin RX8 recently and was going to put it in the summit, but decided to keep it stock and build another e-revo instead.
    The summit does seem slow when you are in a very big open area, but when bashing off road in the park, the limited speed seems fine to me.
    ERBE, ERBE, Summit, Slash 4X4, Bandit,

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    IMO, brushless setups like this are not at home in the Summit. Once you get the diffs open it becomes clear why. All the little parts in there just cant handle that much power. Limiting your throttle and adding punch control will help. Learning to go easy on the throttle will help big time (but wheres the fun in that?). However, there is only so much you can do. The summit is designed to be a slower, more precise crawler/trail truck... works perfect with a brushed setup. But nearly everyone who installes a big brushless setup has trouble with something sooner or later.

    I can almost guarantee the clicking sound your hearing is your diff. The driveshafts will make a clicking noise constantly if they are messed up. Clicking or grinding on braking or acceleration is almost certainly your diffs.
    Pede, Summit,
    ERBE, Rally,
    Motley Crew, 1SQ

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by summitflyer420 View Post
    well i get the upgrade and install it then i melted my slipper clutch big whoop wasnt to bad of a fix but once i got it fixed i start hearing this loud cracking noise when i stop or go to fast to me its sounding like im losing the rear end gears now whould anyone have any ideas or recommendations for me to get it figured out and finally running like it was out of the box with a beefy motor lol
    You want it to 'run like it was out of the box' you have to gear down put the biggest spur that will fit and go small on the pinion, then get a Castle link and crank down punch control, limit your max power, turn down your brakes and tone down your reverse

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. pavmentsurfer's Avatar
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    ^^ which begs the question. Why bother?
    Pede, Summit,
    ERBE, Rally,
    Motley Crew, 1SQ

  11. #11
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    ^^^.......to say you have a MMM powered summit....DUH!! LOL!

  12. #12
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    I solved the diff problem by putting spacer's in the diffs, it helped bring the gears closer together and prevent any gears from
    stripping. If you look in to my previous posts/threads i had someone post a video on how to do it, hope this helps!

  13. #13
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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IV7heUTI4XM

    never mind i found the video hope this helps!!

  14. #14
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    I had a clicking noise occur with my stock setup. It was because i had over tightened the slipper, and my pads had broken. I have been using the upgrade with the aluminum pads and using throttle control. I don't have it to tight but if i just punch it i will do a back flip, even with the wheelie bar. So check your slipper, and possibly upgrade it.

  15. #15
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    Just run the slipper a little lose and you wont put all the diff ripping power down.
    PM me for help converting your Summit to brushless

  16. #16
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    im thinking i found my problem i opened up the skid plates and exposed the drive shaft and looking into the rear end from what i opened up is the u joint right after the longer drive shaft going into the rear end it broke after the smaller u joint guessing bearings went out also...

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