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  1. #1
    RC poster
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    Best Upgrades For Revo 3.3

    Hi All, I know this has been talk alot before, but I would like to know what is the best upgrades for a Revo3.3, i live in SA and upgrade parts are hard to come by, so I would probably use E-bay to source the products from! And what Engine would you guys recommend besides the 3.3
    Eat my Revo dust

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    Need some more Info on how you drive, what type of terrain, etc. Myself, the suspension needed upgraded so I filled my shocks with 50wt and put green springs in front, tan for the rear.
    One shot.....One kill, no exceptions

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
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    5,054
    I'd recommend the O.S. .21Tm and O.S. .18Tm to have in your arsenal with that 3.3. That's my setup (actually have 2 extra .18tm's) and I love all the engines.

    As for upgrades...

    After my 6 years+ of running my revo, jato, rustlers, and tmaxx's I've learned RPM arms are VERY strong, but not truely needed for monster trucks like they are for stadium trucks. I'd recommend the M2C engine brace to prevent any bent frame issues (great investment). Traxxas sway bars, rear brake kit, a wing kit (Traxxas or Tekno), and arguable most importantly a nice set of rims and tires. I recommend 1/2 offset (centered hub on the rim) for a nice comfortable width.

    These are all upgrades that I learned due to broken parts here and there over the years. In the meantime i'd order a part or two to start playing with your REVO and see how it affects the car... While waiting: go run her!
    Learn by doing

  4. #4
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    I agree with the os .21 or ,18
    You should post up pics of where you run your truck, I've never seen SA!

  5. #5
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    Jan 2013
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    Biggest Little City In The World
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    my list of current hop up parts....Traxxas sway bar kit, Dubro Body-Klip retainer, Traxxas Steel CVD's, THS1046 Pipe, THS Drivelines, 40t spur gear 14t clutch bell. Also went to a HD Aluminum Slipper Clutch and a 3 piece aluminum clutch. If you can afford it id get the buku adjustable clutch. I have RPM A-Arm in front and RMP Tru-Track A-Arms in rear. RPM hubs. I also replaced my diff fluid with 50k in front and 30k rear also get you some good grease for the ring gear. I like marine grease just in case water gets in. For my shocks i switch to aluminum caps retainers and adjusters and mounts and got shock socks and filled them with losi brand shock oil 50wt front/rear I also put the #2 shock piston in front and left the rear at #2. i put orange springs in front and gold springs in rear, Handles the bumpy roads and jumps way better now. Also ive added the Tekno wing mount with a Traxxas wing. I also have RPM front/Rear bumpers and mounts. Also have RPM tie rod ends. Last i have a full aluminum skid plate set. Front skid, mid front, center/tranny, rear skid, battery skid plate, servo guards and tank guard that comes up and protects exposed side also. I also did the steering mod and it was night and day the increase of turning radius. Just remember you need to get a HD servo saver spring. Now my Revo handles like a dream and has plenty of power and off the line snap. In stead of i wheelie bar i use my wing and drilled holes and put the wheelie bar wheels on the corner of the wing. All of the parts mentioned should be readily available on eBay and mostly small parts that dont need big packages to be shipped even if you ordered all at once. Also try to buy from seller who combine shipping that could save you alot. I would recommend seller jrc


    I got alot of my ideas from the "Pit Pass" Tab at the top of the page. In the tab go the the "How to" tab in that tab there is 4 part series called "Revo Performance Set-Up Guide" I learned alot and use some of their ideas and some of my own. Good luck if you have any questions just ask or PM me
    " You just got passed by a Traxxas"

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Jan 2013
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    milwaukee wisconsin
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    i would definitly do the following before these things break, rpm control arms, steel flywheel, vented disk brake, also rear wing.
    things that are nice, sway bar kit, also gtr shocks, rpm rod ends, front and rear bumper

  7. #7
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    so TM users - what fuel are you running? I just swapped one in to my near-new revo 3.3
    Revo LRP 30x
    EMBE 6s
    ERBE 6s
    Summit 4s

  8. #8
    RC poster
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    Pretoria-South-Africa
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    Thank guys for all the info, I would start with a Os .21Tm and go from there, the wing, sway bar kit and Rpm a arms sound like a must.........johnzillia54 I will try and post some picks of S.A, u should come and visit!
    Eat my Revo dust

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Convert it to bl! I'm joking. A lot of good upgrades in this thread, also look into getting new wheels and tires.

  10. #10
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    I have an OS21TM and doubt I will ever go back to the trx 3.3
    O.S.21 Nitro Revo, Stampede 4x4, 2 Axial Honcho's

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    so TM users - what fuel are you running? I just swapped one in to my near-new revo 3.3
    I run trx 20% and seems to run very well with tons of power.
    O.S.21 Nitro Revo, Stampede 4x4, 2 Axial Honcho's

  12. #12
    RC Competitor
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    so TM users - what fuel are you running? I just swapped one in to my near-new revo 3.3
    I run byrons race gen 2 20%

  13. #13
    RC Racer
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    i run trx 20% and its fine, if you want more power go with 33% but you will be sacraficing glow plug life along with over all engine life because you will be running hotter

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
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    33% nitro fuel does not make your engine run hotter. It makes it run cooler and provides more power. As for Glow Plug life expectancy, that is hard to say and very dependent on the ability to tune and whether or not you like to run your motor on the lean side or rich side. My glow plugs last a long time, normally more than a gallon easily. I tend to replace them before they are shot anyway. This is from the Revo 5309 manual page 20.

    The TRX 3.3 Racing Engine responds exceptionally well to a maximum of 33% nitro, returning cooler temps, more power, and a smoother throttle response.

    I ran 20% nitro fuel in my first motor and burned it up in 2.5 gallons. I then started using 33% in all my nitro's and have many gallons through them and compression is still very good and they never run high temps.

    Regards,
    --
    Nitro-J-Rod

  15. #15
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by revokinevo View Post
    i run trx 20% and its fine, if you want more power go with 33% but you will be sacraficing glow plug life along with over all engine life because you will be running hotter
    IMHO not always the case. If an engine is running 10%, 20%, or 30% yet still at 225 with a great tune then it is fine. Theoretically the 30% should provide better performance.

    A good read from Byron's site:
    Quote Originally Posted by Byron Fuels.com
    Nitromethane represents a nearly perfect fuel that brings its own oxygen into the combustion process. While there are many theories on some of the effects nitromethane has on temperature and performance, none applies across the board in all applications and with all types and sizes of engines. The nitromethane percentage you need depends a lot on how your engine was designed and the engine manufacturers’ recommendations should always be considered one of your top recommendations.
    Some modelers are under the impression that nitromethane contributes to a higher combustion temperature which is not always true. Depending upon how your engine is set up, higher nitro can actually turn down the heat in certain situations. If you experience predetonation, then it is recommended you go to a lower nitromethane level. Too high a nitro content can cause pitting of the top of the piston and the inside of the glow plug dome. If you run high nitro, you should disassemble your engine occasionally and check it for pitting. If you choose to run a higher nitro than normal, you may need to shim the glow plug head to compensate.
    Increasing nitromethane does not always assure higher performance. Due to the cost factor, if you are a sport modeler, run the lowest nitromethane you can as long as your engine is starting well in cold weather and performance is smooth and responsive.
    Even though you may select a higher oil content for engine break-in, you should always break your engine in on the same nitromethane percentage that you plan to run after break-in.
    The Super Derecho

  16. #16
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    I will stay with the 20% top fuel I already have then I broke-in my OS RG .21 that's in my vanning with that fuel and it runs great. I haven't been able to run the TM yet - too much snow and bad weather. The TRX motor to me is a throw away motor so I will just keep running it for now until spring.
    Revo LRP 30x
    EMBE 6s
    ERBE 6s
    Summit 4s

  17. #17
    RC Racer
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    my bad guys lol thanks for catching my mistake there, i guess the people at my local hobbytown are wrong then sorry about that lol

  18. #18
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    No worries, it is a common assumption. Just here to help.
    --
    Nitro-J-Rod

  19. #19
    RC Racer
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    rock rod you dont want the 3.3 ill take it off your hands for you lol :P

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
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    Quote Originally Posted by revokinevo View Post
    rock rod you dont want the 3.3 ill take it off your hands for you lol :P
    I am going to hang onto it and use it for the winter time bashing. It was pretty cold when I broke it in so it may not run that great once summer arrives. I am going to put the TM in later this spring.
    Revo LRP 30x
    EMBE 6s
    ERBE 6s
    Summit 4s

  21. #21
    RC Racer
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    lol i know i was just joking with you, however if you ever are looking to sell it shoot me a pm

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