Results 1 to 30 of 30
  1. #1
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86

    Question Hi from New Zealand! My tmaxx 2.5 is on its way...

    Hi all, I have ordered my first tmaxx 2.5r! Been looking online at people's opinions of it, and after watching a few vids it does look like the steering is quite sluggish/slow....
    After watching Brandon and Jeremy's review



    http://youtu.be/DywRFz9Cw3s
    I want to do the steering upgrades they suggested from day one! But, they aren't very specific...
    So can someone please (Brandon/Jeremy??) list the upgrades they talk about?
    Mainly these:
    - "better steering servo"
    - "a little bit different shift setup"
    - "bell crank upgrade which moves the steering servo"

    All I need is part numbers and I assume the manufacturer is traxxas - as I need to import these myself so don't want to get it wrong..
    Any other value for money, must do upgrade suggestions are welcome too.

    Thanks heaps, sorry for the long first post!


    Tonda

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    322
    Well to the board the hitec servo is what I got

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Thanks! Did you mean hi torque? Eg this one http://traxxas.com/products/parts/servos/2075 ?

    Any ideas on the bell crank upgrade?

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    705
    The stock steering isn't bad actually, although it can be a little sluggish. The servo you linked us basically the servo you have in there already. Many things that people upgrade on these trucks aren't parts that come from Traxxas, instead they are aftermarket. There is a company called Hitec that makes servos that are a direct replacement for the stock one. I'm not sure of the model number, but someone that knows will probably come in and say so, or a quick google search will probably tell you. Another upgrade that helps steering power/speed is upgrading from the stock 4 AA battery pack to a rechargeable hump pack. For that, you can just search Traxxas hump pack, it's a blue battery that is a triangle shape. It has more voltage than the stock batteries.

    Congrats on the purchase, I'm sure you'll enjoy it, these things are really fun once you get used to it.
    Last edited by rcdriver5; 02-14-2013 at 09:48 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,941
    If you upgrade to a high torque metal gear steering servo, I recommend you get a new stronger servo saver to go with it.
    Both of these below are good ones.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXS443&P=ML
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFNE8&P=7

    Or as the guys in the video were talking about is upgrading to the new 3.3 spec servo saver #4945.
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=7197

    You will also need a servo horn for the new servo you choose if you use the #4945 as the servo saver is moved to the bell crank & the servo now needs a servo horn.
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=7813
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAWJK&P=7
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAWJH&P=7
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAWJF&P=7

    If you stay with the stock 4910 steering bell cranks, to improve steering response & smoothness replace the plastic bushings with qty 4, #2728 5x8x2.5mm bearings, & you can also put 2 more of the 5x8x2.5mm bearings in the throttle bellcrank too while you are at it.
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=5261

    I get all my bearings from AvidRC.com for $1 each.
    http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bear...-bearings.html
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  6. #6
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    I think I love you.. Just what I wanted, suggested parts and part #'s!
    Thank you.. So just confirming if I was to do all of it, I would need this:
    New servo most prob 2075 or please suggest better hitec model?
    Servo saver 4945
    Servo horn 5345x
    Plus the bearings you listed, or is that only if I don't change the servo saver?
    Plus, I've ordered a hump pack 3037, and the wiring harness 3034.
    All of this should be a noticeable improvement and work together?
    Thanks again, I don't have a shop in NZ I can talk about this with, and any wrong parts I order I can't just return..

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    If you upgrade to a high torque metal gear steering servo, I recommend you get a new stronger servo saver to go with it.
    Both of these below are good ones.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXS443&P=ML
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFNE8&P=7

    Or as the guys in the video were talking about is upgrading to the new 3.3 spec servo saver #4945.
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=7197

    You will also need a servo horn for the new servo you choose if you use the #4945 as the servo saver is moved to the bell crank & the servo now needs a servo horn.
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=7813
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAWJK&P=7
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAWJH&P=7
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAWJF&P=7

    If you stay with the stock 4910 steering bell cranks, to improve steering response & smoothness replace the plastic bushings with qty 4, #2728 5x8x2.5mm bearings, & you can also put 2 more of the 5x8x2.5mm bearings in the throttle bellcrank too while you are at it.
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=5261

    I get all my bearings from AvidRC.com for $1 each.
    http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bear...-bearings.html

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,941
    Quote Originally Posted by Tonda View Post
    I think I love you.. Just what I wanted, suggested parts and part #'s!
    Thank you.. So just confirming if I was to do all of it, I would need this:
    New servo most prob 2075 or please suggest better hitec model?
    Servo saver 4945
    Servo horn 5345x
    Plus the bearings you listed, or is that only if I don't change the servo saver?
    Plus, I've ordered a hump pack 3037, and the wiring harness 3034.
    All of this should be a noticeable improvement and work together?
    Thanks again, I don't have a shop in NZ I can talk about this with, and any wrong parts I order I can't just return..
    The 5345X is for non-traxxas(Futaba spline) servos like the Hitec servo's.

    For bearings you need 4 total for the 3.3 spec saver(2 for the steering & 2 for the Throttle bell crank).


    Both below are good servo's.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ89&P=ML
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXANT5&P=ML
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Thanks again, last question, would this be a better bell crank upgrade vs. the 4945? http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...9#.UR3uOREaySM
    If yes, I can use it with all the other parts we listed? I'll most stay with the 2075 servo

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    The 5345X is for non-traxxas(Futaba spline) servos like the Hitec servo's.

    For bearings you need 4 total for the 3.3 spec saver(2 for the steering & 2 for the Throttle bell crank).


    Both below are good servo's.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ89&P=ML
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXANT5&P=ML

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,941
    Nope, Integy aluminum is soft like warm butter, the stock one is better.
    Integy makes a good shock spring set but nothing else is worth spending your money on.
    Intgey only warranties their products till you take it out of the bag, once you remove it from the bag the warranty is voided.

    These below are from good MFG's
    http://neweramodels.mybigcommerce.co...t-no-bearings/
    http://neweramodels.mybigcommerce.co...xx-model-3905/
    http://www.hobbyetc.com/item.cgi?part_id=70310
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  10. #10
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    OK, so i have bought the following parts for my stage 1 upgrade.
    3034 - Wiring harness
    3037 - Battery, RX Power Pack
    2579 - Screws, 3x15mm button-head machine (Said I needed these on installation instructions)
    5116 - Ball bearings, blue rubber sealed (5x11x4mm) x 2
    2728 - Ball bearings (5x8x2.5mm) x 2
    4945 - Steering bellcranks/ servo saver/ servo saver spring

    I think that is everything I need at this stage to do the upgrade. Please let me know if i've missed anything?
    Will upgrade Servo at a later stage, and see how this feels first.
    Cheers,
    Tonda

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,941
    Looks like a good start, I would add 2 more of the 5x8x2.5mm bearings to put in the throttle bell crank, they make for a much smoother, faster throttle responce.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  12. #12
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Thats what those two were for? when i looked at the exploded view I thought I only needed 2 x 5x11x4mm bearings for the servo saver? and i remembered you said upgrade the throttle bell crank bearings so got those two.Link to exploded view

    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    Looks like a good start, I would add 2 more of the 5x8x2.5mm bearings to put in the throttle bell crank, they make for a much smoother, faster throttle responce.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,941
    You still need 2 of them for the non~servo saver side, the throttle bell crank uses two of the same plastic bushings as the steering post do.
    The new style has the servo saver(uses 5x11 bearings) on one post & the pivot arm on the other post, stock it has two plastic bushings in it which wear fast and cause steering slop.
    Thats why I recomend rreplacing the plastic bushings in both the steering pivot arm and the throttle bell crank.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    You still need 2 of them for the non~servo saver side, the throttle bell crank uses two of the same plastic bushings as the steering post do.
    The new style has the servo saver(uses 5x11 bearings) on one post & the pivot arm on the other post, stock it has two plastic bushings in it which wear fast and cause steering slop.
    Thats why I recomend rreplacing the plastic bushings in both the steering pivot arm and the throttle bell crank.
    Ok, got it, will order two more 5x8mm for the throttle for stage 2.
    Stage 2 (I think, TBA)
    Better Servo (2075)
    Throttle bell crank ballbearings (2728)
    RPM A arms (80462) + True Track Rear (80942)
    Better shock/springs combo
    Maybe 17mm kit and new tire/wheel combo

    Will discuss that closer to the time, and again confirm before its the right purchase before going ahead.

    Thanks

  15. #15
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Hi Guys, so all of stage one is installed, except the steering bellcrank.
    I didnt realize that I would have to remove reverse gear Servo, which I'm not 100% certain I want to do yet. So, will try get some spacers and lift the reverse Servo and see if it works. has anyone done this before?

    And, more help please...
    Have had a lot of problems keeping it running after initial run in. after a lot of reading, a few glow plugs and a lot frustration I have now got it so it lifts the inside wheel when turning and accelerating, and it changes gears sweet, no bogging down or cutting out with a steady (but not crazy) stream of smoke all the way.
    BUT! after a few high speed passes, once I slow down and then try accelerate from standstill, it is very sluggish, like barely moves on throttle and engine revs dont increase a lot. sometimes if I give the throttle a few blips it comes right. Any ideas? my thoughts are the HSN is still a bit to rich. Its mid summer here, very high humidity if that helps.

    Thanks again guys, Tonda

  16. #16
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Latitude:N 37 15' 47.0002" Longitude:W 115 47' 34.8713"
    Posts
    2,435
    Quote Originally Posted by Tonda View Post
    Hi Guys, so all of stage one is installed, except the steering bellcrank.
    I didnt realize that I would have to remove reverse gear Servo, which I'm not 100% certain I want to do yet. So, will try get some spacers and lift the reverse Servo and see if it works. has anyone done this before?

    And, more help please...
    Have had a lot of problems keeping it running after initial run in. after a lot of reading, a few glow plugs and a lot frustration I have now got it so it lifts the inside wheel when turning and accelerating, and it changes gears sweet, no bogging down or cutting out with a steady (but not crazy) stream of smoke all the way.
    BUT! after a few high speed passes, once I slow down and then try accelerate from standstill, it is very sluggish, like barely moves on throttle and engine revs dont increase a lot. sometimes if I give the throttle a few blips it comes right. Any ideas? my thoughts are the HSN is still a bit to rich. Its mid summer here, very high humidity if that helps.

    Thanks again guys, Tonda
    i would think thats a issue with the LSN if its from a standstill, bogging is hard to diagnose without me hearing it and seeing it, usual id say its to rich on the LSN, but it could be to lean...

    when it finally takes off after bogging, does it shoot a lot of smoke/fuel out if so its to rich on the LSN....
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  17. #17
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by kuskye25 View Post
    i would think thats a issue with the LSN if its from a standstill, bogging is hard to diagnose without me hearing it and seeing it, usual id say its to rich on the LSN, but it could be to lean...

    when it finally takes off after bogging, does it shoot a lot of smoke/fuel out if so its to rich on the LSN....
    I thought LSN too, but it only does this After a few high speed runs. If I start it up and cruise round low speed i'll have no problems (mostly) and a steady smoke stream. thats why i thougth maybe my HSN is just a bit too rich?

  18. #18
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Latitude:N 37 15' 47.0002" Longitude:W 115 47' 34.8713"
    Posts
    2,435
    Quote Originally Posted by Tonda View Post
    I thought LSN too, but it only does this After a few high speed runs. If I start it up and cruise round low speed i'll have no problems (mostly) and a steady smoke stream. thats why i thougth maybe my HSN is just a bit too rich?
    nope the reason it does it after a few high speed runs is then its up to temp, id say its your LSN
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  19. #19
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by kuskye25 View Post
    nope the reason it does it after a few high speed runs is then its up to temp, id say its your LSN
    Cheers will give that a go, when I get some more glow plugs..

  20. #20
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by Tonda View Post
    And, more help please...
    Have had a lot of problems keeping it running after initial run in. after a lot of reading, a few glow plugs and a lot frustration I have now got it so it lifts the inside wheel when turning and accelerating, and it changes gears sweet, no bogging down or cutting out with a steady (but not crazy) stream of smoke all the way.
    BUT! after a few high speed passes, once I slow down and then try accelerate from standstill, it is very sluggish, like barely moves on throttle and engine revs dont increase a lot. sometimes if I give the throttle a few blips it comes right. Any ideas? my thoughts are the HSN is still a bit to rich. Its mid summer here, very high humidity if that helps.
    So the other issues are still ongoing... I'm gonna throw up a few photos and questions/comments about them. Help is appreciated.

    - burns through Glow plugs, heres a photo of one that is only 2 tanks old and dead.


    - Noticed the Exhaust was leaking a lot of fuel along the seam, so replaced it with a dual chamber Traxxas unit - Would this leak make it harder to tune? It was even blowing smoke out the seam (you can see I tried tightening it with Zipties.


    This glow plug is 1 tank old, with new exhaust and standard settings.


    - It gets really hot, smoking hot.. Even though its running rich. I've had it running on standard tune, gets hot. tried leaning it up, still hot. Tried richening it up, then leaning so it just changes into second, runs hot!! so hot that it burns through the heat shielding


    This is on the new exhaust unit, standard needle settings!


    Is this a leak in the exhaust manifold?

    Heres my Idle gap, but it still idles high, when hot the idle wavers..


    Hopefully the photos help...

    Heres how it all pans out.
    From cold, with new plug starts perfectly.
    Start off slow and its runs well. Steady smoke and good power under throttle.
    Wide open throttle, it runs beautifully, changes into second smoothly real good speed.
    Get a few minutes out of it like this, then after a high speed run and slowing down, it begins to get real sluggish on throttle. Normally just before this when I brake the Revs stay high. Low throttle is like a different machine to a few minutes ago, takes ages to get up to speed. Won't change gear. Real sluggish. Then it either dies or I bring it in because its so sluggish and its real hot, smoking from the glow plug. If I richen it up on the HSN, it wont change gears, so i dont think its too lean. It cant be too rich because its blowing a tonne of smoke!
    I try to lean up the LSN, it either wont start, wont idle or dies under throttle.
    Have i got a bung motor? the air filter came off once on dirt, for like a minute. could this be the issue?
    Hopefully this makes sense, please help! Please ask questions if I've left something out.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    705
    Have you been messing with the HSN at all? When you are tuning, you want to do so when the tank is around half full or less, because of the design of the tank, as the fuel level goes down, less is delivered to the engine causing it to run lean, which would explain why it starts out good, the high temps, and the abnormal coloring of the glow plug. Try to richen the HSN with a half to third tank of fuel and see if that gets you anywhere.

  22. #22
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Yeah i was topping it up to keep at half way when tuning. I'll try again though and report back..

  23. #23
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Latitude:N 37 15' 47.0002" Longitude:W 115 47' 34.8713"
    Posts
    2,435
    ok yes your old tuned pipe would cause it to tune weird.. good you got that fixed... the header will get really hot and melt stuff thats pretty normal... so what are your temps exactly at the glow plug, you want to be at 230 to 260 before you start tuning... typically you dont want it getting over 270 to 280.... your glow plug looks much better now... i bet you were way to lean prolly from the exhaust leak.... if your worried your exhaust is leaking from between the header and engine take your engine off take the header off and inspect the seal/o-ring...

    set it back to factory... your idle looks fine..
    HSN 4 turns from closed
    LSN flush with carb, or what i do is 2 to 2 1/4 turns from closed, just be careful closing the LSN you can damage it if you torque it closed to hard..

    off these settings start it and let it get up to temp, then start tuning...

    this is really the only advise we can give, its possible your engine might be a bit worn out i dont know, running lean for long periods of time can definitely damage an engine and make it not hold a tune ever again till you get it a new piston and sleeve...

    also what fuel are you using...

    also personally id do a leak test on the fuel cell, and replace all your fuel lines
    Last edited by kuskye25; 03-08-2013 at 06:36 PM.
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  24. #24
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by kuskye25 View Post
    ok yes your old tuned pipe would cause it to tune weird.. good you got that fixed... the header will get really hot and melt stuff thats pretty normal... so what are your temps exactly at the glow plug, you want to be at 230 to 260 before you start tuning... typically you dont want it getting over 270 to 280.... your glow plug looks much better now... i bet you were way to lean prolly from the exhaust leak.... if your worried your exhaust is leaking from between the header and engine take your engine off take the header off and inspect the seal/o-ring...

    set it back to factory... your idle looks fine..
    HSN 4 turns from closed
    LSN flush with carb, or what i do is 2 to 2 1/4 turns from closed, just be careful closing the LSN you can damage it if you torque it closed to hard..

    off these settings start it and let it get up to temp, then start tuning...

    this is really the only advise we can give, its possible your engine might be a bit worn out i dont know, running lean for long periods of time can definitely damage an engine and make it not hold a tune ever again till you get it a new piston and sleeve...

    also what fuel are you using...

    also personally id do a leak test on the fuel cell, and replace all your fuel lines
    Hi Kuskeye, thanks for the response.
    Good to know the old pipe was causing problems!
    The thermometer I got unfortunately only goes up to 230... I've got another one on the way. I reset it to factory when I changed the pipe. Even at factory when warm it was causing grief at low speed. Will try set the LSN your way. Finger tighten..
    RE: Fuel, I cant get Traxxas or Top Fuel - basically anything from Brands due to importing it to NZ and the cost. I'm using the LHS recommended 20% Nitro which is made in NZ. Replaced all the fuel lines when I put the pipe in, will check the O ring.
    thanks again.

  25. #25
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Latitude:N 37 15' 47.0002" Longitude:W 115 47' 34.8713"
    Posts
    2,435
    yup no prob, and leak test the fuel cell, if it fails do the ofna violator mod.... traxxas fuel isnt great IMO thats why i asked, i use sidewinder by morgan fuels, or you can get vp powermaster, or byrons would be my low end, all better then traxxas fuel IMO...

    see if you can get any of these, much easier tuning and cooler temps, and more power....

    not that your fuel isnt fine i have no idea, but if you can get any i listed do so, otherwise just stick with what you got...

    definitely wait till you get a proper temp gun before messing with it... so you know whats happening
    Last edited by kuskye25; 03-08-2013 at 07:10 PM.
    Traxxas is good, but so are other Manus

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,941
    The split pipe is definitely a problem & would make tuning impossible.

    Remember the 4 turns out on HSN & 2 1/4 LSN are just a get it started point, it must be tuned from there.

    I find on my engines the 2 1/4 LSN setting is lean & the idle to be really high.

    Both my 2.5 maxx's are over the 2 1/4 on the LSN for example, ones at 3 turns out & the other is at just over 3 1/2 turns out & each idles rear good.

    Where your engines needle setting end up will be different.

    The black sleeves on the fuel lines are not heat shields, they are abrasion guards to keep the fuel line from getting torn up in areas it may rub against.

    Your Idle Gap looks a little on the large side to me, it needs to be .7~1mm, you can use the shank(smooth part) of a #61 drill bit to set it to 1mm.

    My carb with the Idle Gap @ 1mm.
    Last edited by Wildman4910; 03-09-2013 at 04:54 AM.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  27. #27
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Received a box of goodies this week!

    Integy springs, heavier shock oil, rpm skids, and proline wheels and tires.
    Lifted the reverse servo

    Bits installed!

    I've also sealed the engine, as it has been impossible to tune. Now just need a day to go play!

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa Florida
    Posts
    3,941
    Looks like a box full of goodys there!
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  29. #29
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Dawson creek bc
    Posts
    1,115
    Quote Originally Posted by Tonda View Post
    Received a box of goodies this week!

    Integy springs, heavier shock oil, rpm skids, and proline wheels and tires.
    Lifted the reverse servo

    Bits installed!

    I've also sealed the engine, as it has been impossible to tune. Now just need a day to go play!
    In all serious I'd have to advise getting the hang of tuning before going crazy on the mods. I've seen so many guys buy. Maxx and put some serious $$ in upgrades in it and then see it in the marketplace for sale
    Because they can't get the hang of tuneing and want to switch to electric

  30. #30
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyleb View Post
    In all serious I'd have to advise getting the hang of tuning before going crazy on the mods. I've seen so many guys buy. Maxx and put some serious $$ in upgrades in it and then see it in the marketplace for sale
    Because they can't get the hang of tuneing and want to switch to electric
    Yeah fair call. I'll get tuning right, just gotta get a day with it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •